Has anyone climbed all 50 classics? How many for you?


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dee ee

Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 11, 2011 - 09:42pm PT
Has anyone done all of the original 50? I kinda' doubt it. I am refering to the Roper Steck book if you have any question.

A young gym climber at Rockreation Costa Mesa, Nick, asked.

How many have you done?
My count is 12.

Devil's Tower- Durrance Rt.
Pingora- NE Face
Castleton- Kor Ingall's
The Titan- Finger of Fate
Sentinal Rock- Steck-Salathe
Middle Cathedral- East Butt.
El Cap - Nose
Mount Whitney- East Face
Fairview-North Face
Charlotte- South Face
Lover's Leap- Traveler's Butt.

Been rained etc. off of 4 more.

It's about time for a new book.

Nate D

San Francisco
Aug 11, 2011 - 09:46pm PT
This couple is in the process:


And documenting along the way.

Trad climber
Aug 11, 2011 - 09:49pm PT
Try "Fifty favorite climbs: the ultimate North American tick list" by Mark Kroese.

I don't think Hummingbird Ridge has had a true second ascent (?) so no one has ever done all 50 of the originals.

I think my count is 11.

Social climber
Aug 11, 2011 - 09:53pm PT

Castleton Tower

Been rained or snowed off of about 6 others.

Gym climber
berkeley, ca
Aug 11, 2011 - 10:10pm PT
5. I don't think I'm enough of an alpinist to aspire to most.
dee ee

Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 11, 2011 - 10:12pm PT
Feel free to argue how "classic" or "representative" these routes are. Hummingbird Ridge.....uh huh.

Trad climber
Aug 11, 2011 - 10:28pm PT
There has been a variation done on the Hummingbird Ridge but the original ridge proper I don't believe has been repeated. Sadly I lost a dear friend trying to repeat it.


Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Aug 11, 2011 - 10:31pm PT
Geez, surprised myself, 15. But I had to count descending Liberty Ridge since
I've never climbed it. But since it was winter and in the dark with a
broken foot I'm pretty sure it counts.

I also want credit for Wolfshead- pulled a lightning victim off it and lost
our only good day.

But, really, Royal Arches?
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Aug 11, 2011 - 10:38pm PT
thought we did this once before but couldn't find it...

I've got 7:

Wolf's Head
Royal Arches
Lost Arrow Spire
Fairview Dome
Traveler Buttress

Grand Teton, Direct Exum Ridge
Mount Rainier, Liberty Ridge
Mount Robson, Wishbone Arete
Bugaboo Spire, East Ridge

looked at:
Mount Edith Cavell, North Face
Mount Temple, East Ridge
Grand Teton, North Face
Mount Moran, Direct South Buttress

climbed other routes nearby many of those..

think I might get maybe 10 more... we'll see..

Trad climber
East Side, California
Aug 11, 2011 - 10:45pm PT
A while back Florine was talking about doing all 50 in 50 days, I think back when he tried to set the record for the CA 14ers. That project seemed unlikely to be done. Doing all 50 would be tough, throw in the time constraint and it becomes much more difficult... Logan alone could take 50 days.

Social climber
The internet
Aug 11, 2011 - 10:52pm PT
30-32 or so, would have to check the book. All in CO, CA, and the SW, all except NF in WY, quite a few in Canada and the PNW.

I can't see myself doing all 50 or even trying.

There are several that shouldn't have made the book - Hummingbird Ridge, Middle Triple, etc - impressive climbs for the day, right around when the book was published - but not classics anywhere near in the same sense as most of the other routes.

Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Aug 11, 2011 - 11:03pm PT
A while back Florine was talking about doing all 50 in 50 days,

He did 20 in 20 days. Can't find the year, but seems like somewhere in the 2003 or 2004 range.
Rockin' Gal

Trad climber
Aug 11, 2011 - 11:05pm PT
As Allen Steck told me, if you don't like these 50 pick your own.
Mighty Hiker

Vancouver, B.C.
Aug 11, 2011 - 11:12pm PT
Can someone please post the list of all 50?

Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
Aug 11, 2011 - 11:18pm PT
Just found the book with my notes from the 1970's. I was interested in a fair number, but climbed few.

East Ridge Bugaboo 1975
Liberty Ridge Rainier 1980
Grand Teton, Direct Exum 1983
Royal Arches-twice.1970's

Weather can always be a problem on these two.

South Howser Tower, West Butt (Becky-Chouinard)---2 backoffs.
Complete N. Ridge Stuart-3 backoffs.

Social climber
The internet
Aug 11, 2011 - 11:27pm PT
As Allen Steck told me, if you don't like these 50 pick your own.

Gary has done a pretty good job. Here is his take on the current status of the original 50. Click around for his list.


Aug 11, 2011 - 11:30pm PT
Can someone please post the list of all 50?

Here ya go.

Alaska and the Yukon
1.Mount Saint Elias, Abruzzi Ridge
2.Mount Fairweather, Carpé Ridge
3.Mount Hunter, West Ridge
4.Mount McKinley, Cassin Ridge
5.Moose’s Tooth, West Ridge
6.Mount Huntington, West Face 5.9 A2 with “severe snow and ice”
7.Mount Logan, Hummingbird Ridge
8.Middle Triple Peak, East Buttress VI 5.9 A3

Western Canada
9.Mount Sir Donald, Northwest Arete III 5.2
10.Bugaboo Spire, East Ridge III 5.7
11.South Howser Tower, West Buttress V 5.8 A2 or 5.10
12.Mount Robson, Wishbone Arete V 5.6
13.Mount Edith Cavell, North Face IV 5.7
14.Mount Alberta, Japanese Route IV 5.6
15.Mount Temple, East Ridge IV 5.6
16.Mount Waddington, South Face V 5.7
17.Devils Thumb, East Ridge IV 5.6
18.Lotus Flower Tower V 5.8 A2 or 5.10

The Pacific Northwest
19.Mount Rainier, Liberty Ridge
20.Forbidden Peak, West Ridge II 5.2
21.Mount Shuksan, Price Glacier
22.Slesse Mountain, Northeast Buttress V 5.9 A2
23.Mount Stuart, North Ridge III 5.4
24.Liberty Bell Mountain, Liberty Crack V 5.9 A3

25.Devil’s Tower,
Durrance Route II 5.6-5.7
26.Grand Teton, North Ridge IV 5.7
27.Grand Teton, Direct Exum Ridge III 5.6
28.Grand Teton, North Face IV 5.8
29.Mount Moran, Direct South Buttress IV 5.7 A3
30.Pingora, Northeast Face IV 5.8
31.Wolf's Head, East Ridge II 5.5

32.Crestone Needle, Ellingwood Ledges III 5.7
33.Hallett Peak, Northcutt-Carter Route III 5.7
34.Petit Grepon, South Face III 5.7
35.Longs Peak, The Diamond, D1 V 5.7 A4 or 5.11

The Southwest
36.Shiprock, III 5.7 A2 or 5.9
37.Castleton Tower, Kor-Ingalls Route III 5.9
38.Fisher Towers, The Titan, Finger of Fate, IV 5.8 A3

39. The Royal Arches, Royal Arches Route III 5.6 A1 or 5.9
40.Lost Arrow Spire, Spire Chimney III 5.5 A3 or 5.10 A2
41.Sentinel Rock, Steck-Salathe Route V 5.9 A3
42.Middle Cathedral Rock, East Buttress IV 5.9 A1 or 5.10
43.Half Dome, Northwest Face VI 5.9 A3 or 5.11
44.El Capitan, Nose Route VI 5.11 A3
45.El Capitan, Salathé Wall VI 5.10 A3
46.Mount Whitney, East Face III 5.4
47.Fairview Dome, North Face III-IV 5.9
48.Clyde Minaret, Southeast Face IV 5.8
49.Charlotte Dome, South Face III 5.7
50.Lover's Leap, Traveler Buttress II 5.9
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Aug 11, 2011 - 11:42pm PT
I have 13........and that might be it for me.......Hummingbird ridge....hmmmmmm....I say, hmmmmmm....

I got the easy ones...

1. Travelers Butt.
2. Durrance (The Tower)
3. Pingora
4. Wolf's Head
5. Shiprock
6. Castleton
7. Titan (with DEE....cool...)
8. royal arches
9. Lost Arrow
10. Half Dome NW face
11. Fairview
12. Middle (E.Butt)
13. Grand (Exum)


Social climber
santa rosa
Aug 11, 2011 - 11:43pm PT
i choose my own 50

Social climber
Aug 12, 2011 - 12:28am PT
hey there say, dee ee... thanks for the neat and interesting share...


thanks all, for chipping in...
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