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James
climber
A tent in the redwoods
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 4, 2007 - 12:33pm PT
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Around the corner from Yosemite's Bridal Veil Falls, and just before the overhanging Leaning Tower, a striking corner splits the cliff. The plumb line features golden hued granite and large blocks and ledges. Alex and I began the short approach up to the base on Saturday Morning.
The route was well shaded and stayed that way until early afternoon. Alex tied into the sharp end and linked the first two approach pitches in a 190' pitch. After a short squeeze section and some chossy and dirty 5.10, Alex reached a two bolt stance. I followed.
The next pitch is perhaps the best. After a hundred feet of exciting 5.10 crack climbing, one reaches a wide section, which the topo states as 10d offwidth. The route hadn't been climbed in some time and a small thorn bush protruded in the middle of the offwidth so that we were jamming our knees into the sharp plant. After thrashing through the offwidth one reaches a small stance and the beginning of a short corner, this is where the crux of the route is. The crack thins to a third of an inch and requires delicate tips laybacking. The 5.12 can be protected in a few ways: A bomber yellow alien can be placed in the bottom most lock hosing yourself for the difficult moves, or one can make the climbing easier but scarier by placing a poor blue alien. I chose the safest option and let Alex lead this part. He laybacked through the difficulties and made it to the anchor. I followed, making it through the offwidth and to the stance. I removed his blue alien, which had only two lobes in the crack, and climbed up and down to the crux a few times. I finally committed and fell. I pulled back onto the rock, figured out the move and climbed to the anchor.
The next pitch is excellent. From the belay a series of layback takes you to beginning of the 5.11 crux of the pitch, which is protected by a small poorly placed knifeblade. After laybacking a ways to another bolt, the line reachs a small roof, which one underclings and then laybacks around. The pitch is fairly sporty . There are places to jam in gear but the protection is porr and it is best to go for it.
The fifth pitch climbs a small chossy corner and then traverses past two bolts to a large ledge. I led this pitch as well, making my way through the 5.12 span between bolts in the middle of the traverse. A small rail lays next to the bolt and getting across to the ledge is another big span. I moved my hand as far left on the rail as I could and jumped to the ledge, hoping to stick a sort of iron cross. I fell, arcing in a big pendulum. After a few more tries, I managed to get to the ledge. Alex followed cleanly and surmonted this section by moving his feet far over and then karate kicking his leg onto the ledge.
Though there is one more pitch to the summit, we decided to rappel from here. The last pitch looks chossy and all the hard climbing is over with. This route is good though could use some more ascents to clean it up. It is a bit adventurous and the 5.12 R rating is well deserved.
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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Doh! My partner and I have been eyeing that line! Nice send and report, James!
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Great job ticking an obscure one.
I can't help but think that Somewhere Walt Shipley has a smile knowing that this route got a send.
I got just enough beta from him to know I ain't going there!
Peace
Karl
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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No offense James.....but not really a send....Karl - you should know the difference. Nice attempt!
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James
climber
A tent in the redwoods
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 4, 2007 - 01:55pm PT
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Yeah, I know Al. I wish I could go flail on stuff and call it a send, but then I'd be Bulgarian. I want some people to go do this route so it won't be as dirty when I go back.
Alex sent it though. Lucho and Jens Holsten did it a few years ago. Jens sent and I think Lucho followed it cleanly. Thad Friday and Jed Warehamm Morris did it as well that season-they sent. I think Tate Rees did it too, still the route doesn't get much traffic.
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G Murphy
Trad climber
Oakland CA
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I did it with Chan Harrell maybe 8 years ago. The TR is an accurate description of the route. A great old school route with a bit of everything, some choss, short OW, some sporty sections, general full-value climbing. We did the route in a light rain and most of the climb stayed dry.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Al wrote
"No offense James.....but not really a send....Karl - you should know the difference. Nice attempt!"
I know the difference and my fingers twitched a bit when I wrote it but it's an R rated route and the guys went up and did their air time, so I don't really give a crap about technicalities. I just want to give some props. Since the Nose hasn't had a no falls ascent, has it been sent free?
I know some folks care and that's fine.
Peace
Karl
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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Hmmm... I thought he was talking more about the fact that they didn't climb the last pitch, Karl. If ya don't top out to the top of the FA, then I'd say no send.
Aldude?
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Tahoe climber
Trad climber
a dark-green forester out west
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"The pitch is fairly sporty."
Is there any more descriptive phrase in all of climbing?
Makes me reach for a chalk bag!
I love it.
-A
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clustiere
Trad climber
Durango, CO
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Sounds fun.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Jun 12, 2013 - 04:37pm PT
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Something big in that area came off recently, the base took some BIG hits.
Spooky death block corner looms above...
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Jun 12, 2013 - 05:01pm PT
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This was a very old aid route by Kor and Fender, June 1965. I never heard of anyone doing it BITD. Sounds terrific now. What a vantage point up there too.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jun 12, 2013 - 07:11pm PT
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Spooky death block corner looms above...
Page Klaus. Sounds like he needs to come out of retirement. lol
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| Messages 1 - 15 of total 15 in this topic |
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