Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
pvalchev
Social climber
Truckee, CA
|
|
I walked over to check out the Truckee boulder offwidth while smogging the car at Quality Auto next door... the broken glass and graffiti is a real shame! Wonder what it would take to clean it up (especially the graffiti)? Can we collect some money to get it done professionally or would someone in the town be interested in doing it?
Also the access road has a locked gate as of today... don't seem to be able to drive to it. That said, it's a 10 minute walk from the parking lot (in fact, seems like it's less likely to end up with more broken glass and crap if the gate is locked?)
Some day I'll go and actually try it ;)
|
|
Willoughby
Social climber
Truckee, CA
|
|
I think that gate is always locked. Graffiti is a bummer, but I'm more inclined to do something about all the glass. I'd definitely be game to spend an hour with a broom, but it'd be tough with all the nooks and crannies and sandy gravelly whatnot.
Let me know if you ever want to throw a rope on that thing. Late afternoons/early evening mid-week are often good.
View from within the maw:
|
|
pvalchev
Social climber
Truckee, CA
|
|
Oh I thought on the previous page you said you can drive right up to it... I assumed you found the gate unlocked :)
Yeah I was sketched out walking around in flip flops. The whole area around that road next to the tracks is full of trash, tons of broken glass, real bummer. We might be able to scoop the glass together with the dirt, but we might generate a lot more garbage than we can hike out that way.
I'll PM you for throwing a rope on it too, sounds good!
|
|
Willoughby
Social climber
Truckee, CA
|
|
On my first visit I wasn't expecting a road, and I assumed it was an obscure, but open road. Then I noticed the gate (after that earlier post). Every time I drive by now, I look at the gate - always closed.
|
|
Aki J
Trad climber
Placerville, CA
|
|
+1 for "Jam Session" on Flagpole at Echo Lakes. Very cool setting, very few ascents each year. There is maybe a 40+m sustained corner on it that goes from wide hands to OW
|
|
Dave Johnson
Mountain climber
Sacramento, CA
|
|
|
May 10, 2014 - 12:22am PT
|
CV the cut rope was on Blind Faith. The same fate came close to a Ghoulwe, The Great Stein years before. I think it was Eric Barret that lowered a rope to him as he swung in the breeze looking up at a nearly severed rope....yikes.
CD, I was on the belay when Stein led around the corner on Blind Faith. I followed Jon Bowlin on it the week before and sold Stein on it's worthiness. Stein fell and was dangling, we looked horrified to see the rope sheath was cut 1/2-way through. We told Stein to stay still and someone, I think Eric Barrett or George Connor, climbed up to our position so we could lower Stein a rope.
Scary day, scary route.
|
|
Willoughby
Social climber
Truckee, CA
|
|
|
May 19, 2014 - 02:48am PT
|
Took a lap on Dropout, Right, on the east face of Snowshed tonight. The top half or so widens quickly from hands to fists to off-fists (about the time you get a knee in) to heel-toe and chickenwing. There's a point where the heel-toe dropped out for a bit, but it's still chickenwing glory for a nice stretch.
I went left side in and the wings felt super solid. My buddy went right side in, and had more of a reverse Pratt's Crack thing going with his left foot kick-starting the lefthand wall. Looked pretty good, but he called it quits about halfway through, so hard to say which was better. I'll be back to try 'em both. Fun route.
Getting to the crack was a bastard, though, but especially with cold fingertips (cold and windy up there tonight!!). We both took the 11a, arching lieback to underclingy whatever to fall on the toprope and just start over in the damn crack variation. I think the direct approach from the left is more like hard 10.
It's pretty coarse in there; I recommend long sleeves for the wings and tape for the hands/fists section.
|
|
pvalchev
Social climber
Truckee, CA
|
|
|
May 24, 2014 - 01:44am PT
|
Here's a few shots of the boulder offwidth tonight with Willoughby - good times!!!
|
|
Willoughby
Social climber
Truckee, CA
|
|
|
May 24, 2014 - 02:20am PT
|
Yeah, Peter!! That was good fun!
Too many laps of left-side in wings this week? Can't wait to see what this looks like tomorrow. Wall-to-wall bruise.
|
|
KP Ariza
climber
SCC
|
|
|
May 24, 2014 - 03:41am PT
|
Hats off boys!!
Wonder what it would take to rid that stone of graffiti....
I might have to grab a six pack and use an afternoon to give it a go. This place deserves it.
|
|
Willoughby
Social climber
Truckee, CA
|
|
|
May 24, 2014 - 05:26pm PT
|
There's a flake on the left side of that crack, so your chickenwing rests over the hard edge of that sucker. So I guess when you hang your body weight over that edge, off the back of your arm, over and over and over again, you get this. Colors are coming in quite nicely:
|
|
Willoughby
Social climber
Truckee, CA
|
|
|
Apr 27, 2015 - 01:48pm PT
|
I haven't climbed shite in months, but it's time to reboot some Tahoe wide practice. Hit me up if anybody's interested in some late afternoon/evening chickenwing and grovel sessions.
|
|
mastadon
Trad climber
crack addict
|
|
|
Oct 22, 2015 - 06:21am PT
|
Tommy Herbert's kids' climbing class/group cleaned the graffiti off the rock and junk from around the rock. Pretty cool place. I'd never been there and bouldered around on the bottom. Not a gimme-you gotta want it....
From across the pond. Jaybro-maybe the Midget Chimney...
|
|
mcreel
climber
Barcelona
|
|
|
Oct 22, 2015 - 06:24am PT
|
Right on!
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Oct 22, 2015 - 07:07am PT
|
Did Tom get on it?
|
|
mastadon
Trad climber
crack addict
|
|
|
Oct 22, 2015 - 07:10am PT
|
He wasn't there. If he had, it would now be a chimney from bottom to top.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Oct 22, 2015 - 07:47am PT
|
It already is
|
|
NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
|
|
|
Oct 22, 2015 - 09:17am PT
|
This place looks glorious for those already in Tahoe! Not quite enough to make a destination of it from SF Bay Area or further out, but I'll keep this specific line in mind next time I drive through there.
|
|
adventurous one
Trad climber
Truckee Ca.
|
|
|
Oct 22, 2015 - 10:39am PT
|
Great to see that graffiti cleaned up! Thanks kids. Back to being such a fine looking chuck of granite. :)
Edit: Never knew about the petroglyphs. Interesting that there are two left hands, one smaller than the other. Male and female? Father and son? Interesting.
|
|
Willoughby
Social climber
Truckee, CA
|
|
|
Oct 22, 2015 - 11:29am PT
|
Wow, spotless - looks great! Hats off and big thanks to the cleanup crew!!!
EDIT: any sign of petroglyphs as you were scraping off all the paint? That boulder is called Prayer Rock by some, and used to have a pair of handprint petroglyphs. Anybody remember that from back in the day? There's a photo from the 40s at the Truckee jail museum that shows them.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!