Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
| Messages 1 - 64 of total 64 in this topic |
Sonic
Trad climber
Hilly, but no rocks Folsom, California
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 19, 2011 - 02:17am PT
|
Anybody have a favorite list for anywhere in Tahoe?
|
|
213
climber
Where the Froude number often >> 1
|
|
|
Jul 19, 2011 - 03:15am PT
|
Here's a starter day that gives a nice tour of Donner:
Huffer .6
Wide top out option on One Hand Clapping .6?
MAry's Crack .8
Hairshirt .8
Rat's Tooth Right .9
Firecracker .10b (OW is maybe .8)
New Moon .10d (same thing, easier OW but fun!)
Lightning bolt roof stuff looks hard!
|
|
KitKat
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe
|
|
|
Jul 19, 2011 - 03:35am PT
|
Offwidth your head at Echo Lakes, and of course the 2nd pitch of Traveller's Buttress... and the overhanging OW boulder problem at the Lover's Leap boulders... Sugarloaf has some exciting OWs as well! Have fun throwin your body into the wyde!!!!
|
|
Sonic
Trad climber
Hilly, but no rocks Folsom, California
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 19, 2011 - 03:00pm PT
|
Thanks! Good start!
New Question: Anyone want to go climbing this weekend in tahoe?
|
|
Willoughby
Social climber
Truckee, CA
|
|
|
Jul 19, 2011 - 03:31pm PT
|
Here are some more from Donner (includes chimneys):
Labyrinth .6
Minotaur .7
Inside Out .8+ (a very cool route - needs more traffic!!)
Devaluation Direct .9+ (brief section of fists at start)
Bottomless Topless .10a
Jam Session .10b (some chimney and fist practice is possible, but not exactly required)
Rick and Eric's .10b (easy to toprope, btw)
Full Tilt .11a
The Hook .11d
Lots of good wide down at Sugarloaf!!!
|
|
Sonic
Trad climber
Hilly, but no rocks Folsom, California
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 19, 2011 - 04:00pm PT
|
Awesome!
Well looks like Ill be hanging around Donner this weekend!
|
|
Cheesefubar333
Trad climber
Sacramento, CA
|
|
|
Aug 15, 2012 - 01:50pm PT
|
Does anyone know any good places near Tahoe to practice leavittation. I've been hunting down good offwidths but have yet to find anything that requires multiple calf/knee locks and stacks...just a lot heel toes and armbars.
|
|
BuddhaStalin
climber
Truckee, CA
|
|
|
Aug 15, 2012 - 04:30pm PT
|
Truckee boulder or sanitation boulder or poo boulder, whichever you call it. Its a good one.
|
|
426
climber
☬
|
|
|
Aug 15, 2012 - 04:51pm PT
|
Crystal Bay Boulder has 2 very good (9, 10c)
N. Face Lover's Leap, P. Haan variation...very good
Barney Rubble, eagle lake clffs-wide and dirty, & awesome
there's another 6" crack up there (Crackula?) and a good fist unit (Buster Brown?) that I remember being quite good, plus a whole lotta classic hands and fingers.
Lightning bolt is like one weird fist(? if that, secret sequence) but very cool and daunting...
Like ROn A sez good wide at Pie Shop and woodfords, could easily make a day of 10 short pitches...many obscure like "Shelob's Lair"
|
|
bergbryce
Mountain climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
|
|
|
Aug 15, 2012 - 05:08pm PT
|
Good stuff, I've been wanting to practice the wide myself.
Squeeze and Wheeze at Echo Lake looks awesome but short and has about a 3 minute approach.
There is a heinous looking squeeze in the corner uphill and to the right of Space Walk at Eagle Lake. I don't think it has any pro which is a shame because it looks awesome.
I've come across numerous shorter, dirty cracks that would offer great OW training. Some are on obscure chunks of rock with no known routes, others are at existing crags. Does anyone think anyone would object to scrubbing one of moss and loose bits and putting a TR anchor up top?
|
|
mark miller
Social climber
Reno
|
|
|
Aug 15, 2012 - 05:33pm PT
|
Hey 426, Ron A and I were talking about you on Saturday night... Funny Shite, wish you were here, sounds like a Pink Flood song , Ah? Literally, wish you were here.
Crystal bay is full of punishment and so is Travelers, but honestly neither one of them is long enough to teach off width .
|
|
Mr_T
Trad climber
Northern California
|
|
|
Aug 15, 2012 - 05:41pm PT
|
South Shore/Leap:
Traveler's Buttress is a good one at 5.9
Black Opal was kind of fun at 5.10, though more wide shallow groove.
And there's the OW boulder problem near where the trails converge. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YiAVM1JNtbk
|
|
Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
|
|
|
Aug 15, 2012 - 05:43pm PT
|
BuddhaStahlin, that's a good one I'd forgotten about.
|
|
Willoughby
Social climber
Truckee, CA
|
|
|
Mar 18, 2014 - 08:30pm PT
|
BuddhaStahlin,
Despite living in Truckee for a bunch of years, I've never gone and checked that thing out. I have a few questions for you, or whoever might be able to answer:
1) is that really this boulder?
2) is protectable after this point? If there's an anchor up top, it looks worthy for mini-traxion laps!
3) what's access like now that "The Boulders" development went in? Is it even still there?
4) Where in the hell is it???? Can somebody please point to it in this photo?
|
|
Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
|
|
|
Mar 18, 2014 - 08:45pm PT
|
Willoughby, it's been years, but as best as I can remember (I only checked it out once on recon) you walk out the tracks toward the lake from Albertsons and you'll find it. Thirty feet tall or so, fixed anchor on top, kinda manky if I remember correctly. Easy scramble up the backside to TR it. Take pictures!
Edit; I just checked google earth. See that little rocky peninsula center left of your screen shot? That's it. You can see the OW clearly.
|
|
rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
|
|
|
Mar 18, 2014 - 09:16pm PT
|
One of the best i've done, and i've done many, is on Flagpole Peak above Echo Lakes.The route is called Jam Session, 3 pitches. 1st short pitch is a direct start that turns an overhang in an offwidth, 5.10a or so by modern standards, and delivers one to the base of the money pitch in a large right facing corner.2nd pitch climbs the long high quality offwidth in the corner to a stance at its top, probably 5.10b good pro. 3rd pitch continues in varied size cracks 5.9 to the top. Bill Todd and i did the probable FA or at least FFA in 1974.
|
|
Willoughby
Social climber
Truckee, CA
|
|
|
Mar 18, 2014 - 11:45pm PT
|
Well, shitfire, Brandon, if I'd waited for your edit I might have saved myself some guesswork! I'd been assuming that it was much closer to the shopping center. Also, you can drive right to it!
Anyway, I went out and found it with plenty of time for an anchor recon and a sunset squirm. There are FOUR sets of anchors on top. One is for a sport route to the left of the crack. One is on the lip above the crack. One is maybe for some full-body chimney fun on the backside? And maybe the other is to rap or protect the 5.easy scramble up the back? I have no idea why there are so many anchors, but they're there. Easily top-ropable. On lead I suppose you could push a #6 for a short ways, and then there are a couple of manky flakes inside that look like they might take some 0.5-0.75 camalots.
Bit more graffiti now than in that Bachar photo:
You can also see that somebody has heaved some cheater chockstones in there at the bottom. They're deep enough that they're easily avoided though. She overhangs a bit:
Easy 5th class scramble up the back:
And here's my fat arse for scale:
Between the overhang and a fair bit of broken glass at the base, I think I'm going to want a rope to go any higher.
|
|
Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Mar 19, 2014 - 01:49am PT
|
I'm awed bump, although it's still on the first page.
Shoot me now, but I even like the graffiti. 'Course it pales next to the wide crack and stud Willoughby's technique. But dude, no socks?
|
|
Willoughby
Social climber
Truckee, CA
|
|
|
Mar 19, 2014 - 02:01am PT
|
Socks? Pshaw!! Socks are aid. But honestly, it's way too wide to graze the ankles (unless you're flailing around inside like a spastic or something). Establishing move for me was a high but solid knee, and it just slowly widens from there on up.
If anybody is interested in this thing, I'm planning on beating it into submission with post-close-of-business top rope sessions over the next couple of months. Feel free to PM me.
|
|
Guangzhou
Trad climber
Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia
|
|
|
Mar 19, 2014 - 02:09am PT
|
What a list. My wife just might hate some of you before summer is over. We'll be in Tahoe most of summer. Out of shape for climbing after the 5 to 6 month MOngolian winter, but should be able to climb most days. Feel free to look us up.
|
|
KP Ariza
climber
SCC
|
|
|
Mar 19, 2014 - 02:13am PT
|
Old stomping grounds....it was called the Truckee Boulder offwidth when I first went there in 1982. No graffiti, broken glass, bolts or any of that sh#t. Actually, the only eyesore was a rusty stud ladder on the steep side.
The wide crack left side in was rated 5.9, right side in 5.9+. We used to run laps on it. I never once roped up out there, nobody did. Once your torso is in it's over with.
Good slab and thin face bouldering out there as well. Did a few good problems in the mid 80's on a boulder that ended up rolling into the drink.
Kurt, myself, Bobby Baldwin, Tim Maas, Mike Davis, John Larsen, Dave Lewinter, Skippy......Truckee kids getting our kicks.
|
|
Willoughby
Social climber
Truckee, CA
|
|
|
Mar 19, 2014 - 02:26am PT
|
Self-abuse:
Speaking of the Loaf, I still have unfinished business on TM's Deviation ... but that's a whole other bunch of threads.
|
|
Norwegian
Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
|
|
|
Mar 19, 2014 - 09:22am PT
|
a good spring outing
is to climb all of the wide routes at sugarloaf
in a day. 30 plus pitches, ya
|
|
Willoughby
Social climber
Truckee, CA
|
|
|
Mar 19, 2014 - 12:57pm PT
|
Weeg, have you actually done that? How often do you suppose the Fat Merchant gets tackled?
|
|
Norwegian
Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
|
|
|
Mar 19, 2014 - 07:20pm PT
|
it was paul crawford's idea.
it was also the first time that i roped up with this fella,
who i hold in extremely high esteem.
so we trudge up the slope,
and i offer,
"we should start with the fat merchant, and get it over with.
i'll lead it."
paul said that he remembered getting a no. 5 before the crux.
this differed from mine memory but i destroyed that a long time
ago.
i usually don't even bring gear
and then just haul it up after the crux,
so i try paul's idea and it's horribly tipped out,
it stays for a bit then pops out and rattles down the rope.
x-terrain for sure.
i scraped it out, literally.
it was all downhill after that.
tm's, east and west chimney, farley, the fang, hardings,
i can't think of the name of the chimney left of pony express,
the fly, self abuse, others too, like i said, the whole memory thing aint mine.
a great day, ending with "the fly" on sugarbun
in the dark.
paul thought the day was on par with say the steck salathe.
and his opinion is quite valid.
i don't think the merchant see many leads,
maybe a couple a year?
|
|
Willoughby
Social climber
Truckee, CA
|
|
|
Mar 19, 2014 - 08:14pm PT
|
Weeg, that day is null and void without Scheister. It may only be 5.7, but you did say "all." I'm sure, as you've suggested, your memory is failing to account for the fact that you did climb it. Sounds like one long, physical beat-down!
I'll admit it, Fat Merchant Crack scares me. Didn't somebody die falling out of that thing? Back in the late 80s maybe?
|
|
Norwegian
Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
|
|
|
Mar 19, 2014 - 08:22pm PT
|
i know that few years back,
a local doctor fell from the
horizontal crack that traverses
a pitch above fat merchant,
(his rope chopped on a knob)
i can't remember the route name??
and he came to rest at the
base of the fat crack.
oh,
i think we fell short of sheister.
we'll have to go back and clean up that effort.
|
|
Willoughby
Social climber
Truckee, CA
|
|
|
Mar 19, 2014 - 08:51pm PT
|
Bummer. Story I heard was that the Fat Merchant itself had claimed a life.
i think we fell short of sheister.
we'll have to back and clean up that effort.
That's the spirit!!! If I were in any kind of shape I'd offer to join you, but I know an attempt at such a day right now would defeat me utterly. I do need to get into Steck-Salathe shape for this summer though. Maybe check back in May...
|
|
Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
|
|
|
Mar 20, 2014 - 04:52pm PT
|
Gotta throw in Rebirth and Offwidth Out You at Deadwood Wall in Woodfords into the mix. A bit grainy and green, but still great. As far as I know Karsten and I have the only leads on OWOY.
|
|
Charlie D.
Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
|
|
|
Mar 20, 2014 - 08:07pm PT
|
CV the cut rope was on Blind Faith. The same fate came close to a Ghoulwe, The Great Stein years before. I think it was Eric Barret that lowered a rope to him as he swung in the breeze looking up at a nearly severed rope....yikes.
PS...impressive day indeed!!!
|
|
scooter
climber
fist clamp
|
|
|
Mar 20, 2014 - 08:36pm PT
|
Always difficult! Great circuit in Yose too!
|
|
Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
|
|
|
Mar 20, 2014 - 09:33pm PT
|
That sounds like a fun day Weege, never really thought of doing that. It's on my soon to happen list now.
Did East Wall in a day once. 11 routes in about 9 hours or about.
Any route is fair game, it just has to go to the top and not be a one pitch variation of another route (example: Preparation H.)
We did;
Pop Bottle,
East Corner,
Haystack,
Fantasia,
Scimitar,
East Crack,
Bears Reach,
East Wall,
The Line,
Psychedelic Tree
and Fandango.
I'd like to add another route or two this year but not sure what, maybe Piggies or Fear no Evil or something.
Just need to find a solid partner I can sucker into it. Gotta be solid, you pretty much have to simul everything with a half rack to pull it off.
|
|
Lone Quail
Trad climber
Littleton, Colorado
|
|
|
Mar 20, 2014 - 09:58pm PT
|
Don't miss Eyeore's Enigma at Lovers Leap.
|
|
Willoughby
Social climber
Truckee, CA
|
|
|
Mar 25, 2014 - 04:24am PT
|
Put in a little minitraxion time at the Crystal Bay Boulder Friday evening and snapped a couple of pics. Great spot!
No idea why that's getting rotated, but I can't seem to fix it from my phone. Regardless, you get the idea.
|
|
Norwegian
Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
|
|
|
Mar 25, 2014 - 04:31am PT
|
third stone and then god of thunder
are must do's for the accomplished groveler.
|
|
Norwegian
Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
|
|
|
Mar 25, 2014 - 08:44am PT
|
a couple shots of self-belayed-self-abuse
|
|
Willoughby
Social climber
Truckee, CA
|
|
|
Apr 18, 2014 - 01:55am PT
|
Made it back to the Truckee Boulder Offwidth this evening.
KP said "Once your torso is in it's over with." Sure, sorta, but I didn't get in there until about halfway up. She seemed hell-bent on not letting me in until I'd earned it.
My assessment:
Mini-traxion + squeeze = PITA. Nonetheless, I'm not quite ready to ditch the rope on this thing.
Bottom 1/4 - pretty easy, esp. with chockstones and stuff on the right wall for your foot
Top 1/3 - very easy chimeny
Middle coupla body lengths - not a gimme, but psyched to smooth this out. Chickenwings aplenty!
PS - anybody up for some groveling on Sunday? TM's Deviation, perhaps?
|
|
pvalchev
Social climber
Truckee, CA
|
|
I walked over to check out the Truckee boulder offwidth while smogging the car at Quality Auto next door... the broken glass and graffiti is a real shame! Wonder what it would take to clean it up (especially the graffiti)? Can we collect some money to get it done professionally or would someone in the town be interested in doing it?
Also the access road has a locked gate as of today... don't seem to be able to drive to it. That said, it's a 10 minute walk from the parking lot (in fact, seems like it's less likely to end up with more broken glass and crap if the gate is locked?)
Some day I'll go and actually try it ;)
|
|
Willoughby
Social climber
Truckee, CA
|
|
I think that gate is always locked. Graffiti is a bummer, but I'm more inclined to do something about all the glass. I'd definitely be game to spend an hour with a broom, but it'd be tough with all the nooks and crannies and sandy gravelly whatnot.
Let me know if you ever want to throw a rope on that thing. Late afternoons/early evening mid-week are often good.
View from within the maw:
|
|
pvalchev
Social climber
Truckee, CA
|
|
Oh I thought on the previous page you said you can drive right up to it... I assumed you found the gate unlocked :)
Yeah I was sketched out walking around in flip flops. The whole area around that road next to the tracks is full of trash, tons of broken glass, real bummer. We might be able to scoop the glass together with the dirt, but we might generate a lot more garbage than we can hike out that way.
I'll PM you for throwing a rope on it too, sounds good!
|
|
Willoughby
Social climber
Truckee, CA
|
|
On my first visit I wasn't expecting a road, and I assumed it was an obscure, but open road. Then I noticed the gate (after that earlier post). Every time I drive by now, I look at the gate - always closed.
|
|
Aki J
Trad climber
Placerville, CA
|
|
+1 for "Jam Session" on Flagpole at Echo Lakes. Very cool setting, very few ascents each year. There is maybe a 40+m sustained corner on it that goes from wide hands to OW
|
|
Dave Johnson
Mountain climber
Sacramento, CA
|
|
|
May 10, 2014 - 12:22am PT
|
CV the cut rope was on Blind Faith. The same fate came close to a Ghoulwe, The Great Stein years before. I think it was Eric Barret that lowered a rope to him as he swung in the breeze looking up at a nearly severed rope....yikes.
CD, I was on the belay when Stein led around the corner on Blind Faith. I followed Jon Bowlin on it the week before and sold Stein on it's worthiness. Stein fell and was dangling, we looked horrified to see the rope sheath was cut 1/2-way through. We told Stein to stay still and someone, I think Eric Barrett or George Connor, climbed up to our position so we could lower Stein a rope.
Scary day, scary route.
|
|
Willoughby
Social climber
Truckee, CA
|
|
|
May 19, 2014 - 02:48am PT
|
Took a lap on Dropout, Right, on the east face of Snowshed tonight. The top half or so widens quickly from hands to fists to off-fists (about the time you get a knee in) to heel-toe and chickenwing. There's a point where the heel-toe dropped out for a bit, but it's still chickenwing glory for a nice stretch.
I went left side in and the wings felt super solid. My buddy went right side in, and had more of a reverse Pratt's Crack thing going with his left foot kick-starting the lefthand wall. Looked pretty good, but he called it quits about halfway through, so hard to say which was better. I'll be back to try 'em both. Fun route.
Getting to the crack was a bastard, though, but especially with cold fingertips (cold and windy up there tonight!!). We both took the 11a, arching lieback to underclingy whatever to fall on the toprope and just start over in the damn crack variation. I think the direct approach from the left is more like hard 10.
It's pretty coarse in there; I recommend long sleeves for the wings and tape for the hands/fists section.
|
|
pvalchev
Social climber
Truckee, CA
|
|
|
May 24, 2014 - 01:44am PT
|
Here's a few shots of the boulder offwidth tonight with Willoughby - good times!!!
|
|
Willoughby
Social climber
Truckee, CA
|
|
|
May 24, 2014 - 02:20am PT
|
Yeah, Peter!! That was good fun!
Too many laps of left-side in wings this week? Can't wait to see what this looks like tomorrow. Wall-to-wall bruise.
|
|
KP Ariza
climber
SCC
|
|
|
May 24, 2014 - 03:41am PT
|
Hats off boys!!
Wonder what it would take to rid that stone of graffiti....
I might have to grab a six pack and use an afternoon to give it a go. This place deserves it.
|
|
Willoughby
Social climber
Truckee, CA
|
|
|
May 24, 2014 - 05:26pm PT
|
There's a flake on the left side of that crack, so your chickenwing rests over the hard edge of that sucker. So I guess when you hang your body weight over that edge, off the back of your arm, over and over and over again, you get this. Colors are coming in quite nicely:
|
|
Willoughby
Social climber
Truckee, CA
|
|
|
Apr 27, 2015 - 01:48pm PT
|
I haven't climbed shite in months, but it's time to reboot some Tahoe wide practice. Hit me up if anybody's interested in some late afternoon/evening chickenwing and grovel sessions.
|
|
mastadon
Trad climber
crack addict
|
|
|
Oct 22, 2015 - 06:21am PT
|
Tommy Herbert's kids' climbing class/group cleaned the graffiti off the rock and junk from around the rock. Pretty cool place. I'd never been there and bouldered around on the bottom. Not a gimme-you gotta want it....
From across the pond. Jaybro-maybe the Midget Chimney...
|
|
mcreel
climber
Barcelona
|
|
|
Oct 22, 2015 - 06:24am PT
|
Right on!
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Oct 22, 2015 - 07:07am PT
|
Did Tom get on it?
|
|
mastadon
Trad climber
crack addict
|
|
|
Oct 22, 2015 - 07:10am PT
|
He wasn't there. If he had, it would now be a chimney from bottom to top.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Oct 22, 2015 - 07:47am PT
|
It already is
|
|
NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
|
|
|
Oct 22, 2015 - 09:17am PT
|
This place looks glorious for those already in Tahoe! Not quite enough to make a destination of it from SF Bay Area or further out, but I'll keep this specific line in mind next time I drive through there.
|
|
adventurous one
Trad climber
Truckee Ca.
|
|
|
Oct 22, 2015 - 10:39am PT
|
Great to see that graffiti cleaned up! Thanks kids. Back to being such a fine looking chuck of granite. :)
Edit: Never knew about the petroglyphs. Interesting that there are two left hands, one smaller than the other. Male and female? Father and son? Interesting.
|
|
Willoughby
Social climber
Truckee, CA
|
|
|
Oct 22, 2015 - 11:29am PT
|
Wow, spotless - looks great! Hats off and big thanks to the cleanup crew!!!
EDIT: any sign of petroglyphs as you were scraping off all the paint? That boulder is called Prayer Rock by some, and used to have a pair of handprint petroglyphs. Anybody remember that from back in the day? There's a photo from the 40s at the Truckee jail museum that shows them.
|
|
adventurous one
Trad climber
Truckee Ca.
|
|
|
Oct 22, 2015 - 01:51pm PT
|
If you are into offwidth don't miss "Manitou" (sustained 5.9+) at Big Chief (yes, there actually are some great trad routes at Big Chief) The top 45', of this 155' tall route, is fun and physical offwidth/squeeze chimney. Surprised this rarely climbed, fine line doesn't get climbed much more often. Bring a long sleeve shirt as parts of the offwidth are very abrasive. Definitely worth bringing a rack out to Big Chief (Primarily a sport crag) to do this classic route.
|
|
darshahlu
Trad climber
Irvine, CA
|
|
What is the name of that offwidth/squeeze chimney near Truckee / Donner Pass?
This one:
https://youtu.be/vDROJUs2vZg
Went and checked it out this weekend. Its pretty sweet.
[edit]
and what is the name of the boulder? "Prayer Rock"?
|
|
chainsaw
Trad climber
CA
|
|
I'm surprised no one mentioned Karl's Overhang. It's to the left (Southwest) of Short Subject at Donner, uphill from Schoolhouse. I could make it to the jug at the end of the steep but no further. Never heard of any second ascent. Anybody send that thang?
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
Yup, I climbed it first in around 93. Tom Herbert has done it before he was a Doctor. It’s had at least a handful of ascents. I have photos somewhere. I tried to insight free solo it, chickened out when I reached over the lip and downclimbed.
|
|
| Messages 1 - 64 of total 64 in this topic |
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!