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Willoughby
Social climber
Truckee, CA
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Mar 19, 2014 - 02:01am PT
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Socks? Pshaw!! Socks are aid. But honestly, it's way too wide to graze the ankles (unless you're flailing around inside like a spastic or something). Establishing move for me was a high but solid knee, and it just slowly widens from there on up.
If anybody is interested in this thing, I'm planning on beating it into submission with post-close-of-business top rope sessions over the next couple of months. Feel free to PM me.
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Guangzhou
Trad climber
Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia
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Mar 19, 2014 - 02:09am PT
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What a list. My wife just might hate some of you before summer is over. We'll be in Tahoe most of summer. Out of shape for climbing after the 5 to 6 month MOngolian winter, but should be able to climb most days. Feel free to look us up.
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Mar 19, 2014 - 02:13am PT
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Old stomping grounds....it was called the Truckee Boulder offwidth when I first went there in 1982. No graffiti, broken glass, bolts or any of that sh#t. Actually, the only eyesore was a rusty stud ladder on the steep side.
The wide crack left side in was rated 5.9, right side in 5.9+. We used to run laps on it. I never once roped up out there, nobody did. Once your torso is in it's over with.
Good slab and thin face bouldering out there as well. Did a few good problems in the mid 80's on a boulder that ended up rolling into the drink.
Kurt, myself, Bobby Baldwin, Tim Maas, Mike Davis, John Larsen, Dave Lewinter, Skippy......Truckee kids getting our kicks.
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Willoughby
Social climber
Truckee, CA
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Mar 19, 2014 - 02:26am PT
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Self-abuse:
Speaking of the Loaf, I still have unfinished business on TM's Deviation ... but that's a whole other bunch of threads.
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Norwegian
Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
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Mar 19, 2014 - 09:22am PT
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a good spring outing
is to climb all of the wide routes at sugarloaf
in a day. 30 plus pitches, ya
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Willoughby
Social climber
Truckee, CA
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Mar 19, 2014 - 12:57pm PT
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Weeg, have you actually done that? How often do you suppose the Fat Merchant gets tackled?
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Norwegian
Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
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Mar 19, 2014 - 07:20pm PT
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it was paul crawford's idea.
it was also the first time that i roped up with this fella,
who i hold in extremely high esteem.
so we trudge up the slope,
and i offer,
"we should start with the fat merchant, and get it over with.
i'll lead it."
paul said that he remembered getting a no. 5 before the crux.
this differed from mine memory but i destroyed that a long time
ago.
i usually don't even bring gear
and then just haul it up after the crux,
so i try paul's idea and it's horribly tipped out,
it stays for a bit then pops out and rattles down the rope.
x-terrain for sure.
i scraped it out, literally.
it was all downhill after that.
tm's, east and west chimney, farley, the fang, hardings,
i can't think of the name of the chimney left of pony express,
the fly, self abuse, others too, like i said, the whole memory thing aint mine.
a great day, ending with "the fly" on sugarbun
in the dark.
paul thought the day was on par with say the steck salathe.
and his opinion is quite valid.
i don't think the merchant see many leads,
maybe a couple a year?
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Willoughby
Social climber
Truckee, CA
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Mar 19, 2014 - 08:14pm PT
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Weeg, that day is null and void without Scheister. It may only be 5.7, but you did say "all." I'm sure, as you've suggested, your memory is failing to account for the fact that you did climb it. Sounds like one long, physical beat-down!
I'll admit it, Fat Merchant Crack scares me. Didn't somebody die falling out of that thing? Back in the late 80s maybe?
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Norwegian
Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
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Mar 19, 2014 - 08:22pm PT
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i know that few years back,
a local doctor fell from the
horizontal crack that traverses
a pitch above fat merchant,
(his rope chopped on a knob)
i can't remember the route name??
and he came to rest at the
base of the fat crack.
oh,
i think we fell short of sheister.
we'll have to go back and clean up that effort.
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Willoughby
Social climber
Truckee, CA
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Mar 19, 2014 - 08:51pm PT
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Bummer. Story I heard was that the Fat Merchant itself had claimed a life.
i think we fell short of sheister.
we'll have to back and clean up that effort.
That's the spirit!!! If I were in any kind of shape I'd offer to join you, but I know an attempt at such a day right now would defeat me utterly. I do need to get into Steck-Salathe shape for this summer though. Maybe check back in May...
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Mar 20, 2014 - 04:52pm PT
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Gotta throw in Rebirth and Offwidth Out You at Deadwood Wall in Woodfords into the mix. A bit grainy and green, but still great. As far as I know Karsten and I have the only leads on OWOY.
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Charlie D.
Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
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Mar 20, 2014 - 08:07pm PT
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CV the cut rope was on Blind Faith. The same fate came close to a Ghoulwe, The Great Stein years before. I think it was Eric Barret that lowered a rope to him as he swung in the breeze looking up at a nearly severed rope....yikes.
PS...impressive day indeed!!!
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scooter
climber
fist clamp
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Mar 20, 2014 - 08:36pm PT
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Always difficult! Great circuit in Yose too!
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Mar 20, 2014 - 09:33pm PT
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That sounds like a fun day Weege, never really thought of doing that. It's on my soon to happen list now.
Did East Wall in a day once. 11 routes in about 9 hours or about.
Any route is fair game, it just has to go to the top and not be a one pitch variation of another route (example: Preparation H.)
We did;
Pop Bottle,
East Corner,
Haystack,
Fantasia,
Scimitar,
East Crack,
Bears Reach,
East Wall,
The Line,
Psychedelic Tree
and Fandango.
I'd like to add another route or two this year but not sure what, maybe Piggies or Fear no Evil or something.
Just need to find a solid partner I can sucker into it. Gotta be solid, you pretty much have to simul everything with a half rack to pull it off.
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Lone Quail
Trad climber
Littleton, Colorado
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Mar 20, 2014 - 09:58pm PT
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Don't miss Eyeore's Enigma at Lovers Leap.
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Willoughby
Social climber
Truckee, CA
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Mar 25, 2014 - 04:24am PT
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Put in a little minitraxion time at the Crystal Bay Boulder Friday evening and snapped a couple of pics. Great spot!
No idea why that's getting rotated, but I can't seem to fix it from my phone. Regardless, you get the idea.
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Norwegian
Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
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Mar 25, 2014 - 04:31am PT
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third stone and then god of thunder
are must do's for the accomplished groveler.
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Norwegian
Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
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Mar 25, 2014 - 08:44am PT
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a couple shots of self-belayed-self-abuse
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Willoughby
Social climber
Truckee, CA
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Apr 18, 2014 - 01:55am PT
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Made it back to the Truckee Boulder Offwidth this evening.
KP said "Once your torso is in it's over with." Sure, sorta, but I didn't get in there until about halfway up. She seemed hell-bent on not letting me in until I'd earned it.
My assessment:
Mini-traxion + squeeze = PITA. Nonetheless, I'm not quite ready to ditch the rope on this thing.
Bottom 1/4 - pretty easy, esp. with chockstones and stuff on the right wall for your foot
Top 1/3 - very easy chimeny
Middle coupla body lengths - not a gimme, but psyched to smooth this out. Chickenwings aplenty!
PS - anybody up for some groveling on Sunday? TM's Deviation, perhaps?
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