Offwidth circuit Tahoe area

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Sonic

Trad climber
Hilly, but no rocks Folsom, California
Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 19, 2011 - 02:17am PT
Anybody have a favorite list for anywhere in Tahoe?
213

climber
Where the Froude number often >> 1
Jul 19, 2011 - 03:15am PT
Here's a starter day that gives a nice tour of Donner:
Huffer .6
Wide top out option on One Hand Clapping .6?
MAry's Crack .8
Hairshirt .8
Rat's Tooth Right .9
Firecracker .10b (OW is maybe .8)
New Moon .10d (same thing, easier OW but fun!)
Lightning bolt roof stuff looks hard!
KitKat

Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe
Jul 19, 2011 - 03:35am PT
Offwidth your head at Echo Lakes, and of course the 2nd pitch of Traveller's Buttress... and the overhanging OW boulder problem at the Lover's Leap boulders... Sugarloaf has some exciting OWs as well! Have fun throwin your body into the wyde!!!!
Sonic

Trad climber
Hilly, but no rocks Folsom, California
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 19, 2011 - 03:00pm PT
Thanks! Good start!

New Question: Anyone want to go climbing this weekend in tahoe?
Willoughby

Social climber
Truckee, CA
Jul 19, 2011 - 03:31pm PT
Here are some more from Donner (includes chimneys):

Labyrinth .6
Minotaur .7
Inside Out .8+ (a very cool route - needs more traffic!!)
Devaluation Direct .9+ (brief section of fists at start)
Bottomless Topless .10a
Jam Session .10b (some chimney and fist practice is possible, but not exactly required)
Rick and Eric's .10b (easy to toprope, btw)
Full Tilt .11a
The Hook .11d

Lots of good wide down at Sugarloaf!!!
Sonic

Trad climber
Hilly, but no rocks Folsom, California
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 19, 2011 - 04:00pm PT
Awesome!

Well looks like Ill be hanging around Donner this weekend!
Cheesefubar333

Trad climber
Sacramento, CA
Aug 15, 2012 - 01:50pm PT
Does anyone know any good places near Tahoe to practice leavittation. I've been hunting down good offwidths but have yet to find anything that requires multiple calf/knee locks and stacks...just a lot heel toes and armbars.
Texplorer

Trad climber
Sacramento
Aug 15, 2012 - 02:44pm PT
Here is a fun little thing I found a few years ago.

http://www.mountainproject.com/images/11/2/107021102_large_4ca612.jpg
BuddhaStalin

climber
Truckee, CA
Aug 15, 2012 - 04:30pm PT
Truckee boulder or sanitation boulder or poo boulder, whichever you call it. Its a good one.
426

climber
Aug 15, 2012 - 04:51pm PT
Crystal Bay Boulder has 2 very good (9, 10c)

N. Face Lover's Leap, P. Haan variation...very good

Barney Rubble, eagle lake clffs-wide and dirty, & awesome

there's another 6" crack up there (Crackula?) and a good fist unit (Buster Brown?) that I remember being quite good, plus a whole lotta classic hands and fingers.


Lightning bolt is like one weird fist(? if that, secret sequence) but very cool and daunting...

Like ROn A sez good wide at Pie Shop and woodfords, could easily make a day of 10 short pitches...many obscure like "Shelob's Lair"
bergbryce

Mountain climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
Aug 15, 2012 - 05:08pm PT
Good stuff, I've been wanting to practice the wide myself.
Squeeze and Wheeze at Echo Lake looks awesome but short and has about a 3 minute approach.

There is a heinous looking squeeze in the corner uphill and to the right of Space Walk at Eagle Lake. I don't think it has any pro which is a shame because it looks awesome.

I've come across numerous shorter, dirty cracks that would offer great OW training. Some are on obscure chunks of rock with no known routes, others are at existing crags. Does anyone think anyone would object to scrubbing one of moss and loose bits and putting a TR anchor up top?
mark miller

Social climber
Reno
Aug 15, 2012 - 05:33pm PT
Hey 426, Ron A and I were talking about you on Saturday night... Funny Shite, wish you were here, sounds like a Pink Flood song , Ah? Literally, wish you were here.
Crystal bay is full of punishment and so is Travelers, but honestly neither one of them is long enough to teach off width .
Mr_T

Trad climber
Northern California
Aug 15, 2012 - 05:41pm PT
South Shore/Leap:

Traveler's Buttress is a good one at 5.9
Black Opal was kind of fun at 5.10, though more wide shallow groove.

And there's the OW boulder problem near where the trails converge. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YiAVM1JNtbk
Brandon-

climber
The Granite State.
Aug 15, 2012 - 05:43pm PT
BuddhaStahlin, that's a good one I'd forgotten about.
scuffy b

climber
heading slowly NNW
Aug 15, 2012 - 05:57pm PT
[url]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CmWN4b-RYJQ[/url]


This is where, Sugar Pine State Park?

Looks really good.
Willoughby

Social climber
Truckee, CA
Mar 18, 2014 - 08:30pm PT
BuddhaStahlin,

Despite living in Truckee for a bunch of years, I've never gone and checked that thing out. I have a few questions for you, or whoever might be able to answer:

1) is that really this boulder?


2) is protectable after this point? If there's an anchor up top, it looks worthy for mini-traxion laps!

3) what's access like now that "The Boulders" development went in? Is it even still there?

4) Where in the hell is it???? Can somebody please point to it in this photo?

Brandon-

climber
The Granite State.
Mar 18, 2014 - 08:45pm PT
Willoughby, it's been years, but as best as I can remember (I only checked it out once on recon) you walk out the tracks toward the lake from Albertsons and you'll find it. Thirty feet tall or so, fixed anchor on top, kinda manky if I remember correctly. Easy scramble up the backside to TR it. Take pictures!

Edit; I just checked google earth. See that little rocky peninsula center left of your screen shot? That's it. You can see the OW clearly.
rick sumner

Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
Mar 18, 2014 - 09:16pm PT
One of the best i've done, and i've done many, is on Flagpole Peak above Echo Lakes.The route is called Jam Session, 3 pitches. 1st short pitch is a direct start that turns an overhang in an offwidth, 5.10a or so by modern standards, and delivers one to the base of the money pitch in a large right facing corner.2nd pitch climbs the long high quality offwidth in the corner to a stance at its top, probably 5.10b good pro. 3rd pitch continues in varied size cracks 5.9 to the top. Bill Todd and i did the probable FA or at least FFA in 1974.
Willoughby

Social climber
Truckee, CA
Mar 18, 2014 - 11:45pm PT
Well, shitfire, Brandon, if I'd waited for your edit I might have saved myself some guesswork! I'd been assuming that it was much closer to the shopping center. Also, you can drive right to it!

Anyway, I went out and found it with plenty of time for an anchor recon and a sunset squirm. There are FOUR sets of anchors on top. One is for a sport route to the left of the crack. One is on the lip above the crack. One is maybe for some full-body chimney fun on the backside? And maybe the other is to rap or protect the 5.easy scramble up the back? I have no idea why there are so many anchors, but they're there. Easily top-ropable. On lead I suppose you could push a #6 for a short ways, and then there are a couple of manky flakes inside that look like they might take some 0.5-0.75 camalots.


Bit more graffiti now than in that Bachar photo:


You can also see that somebody has heaved some cheater chockstones in there at the bottom. They're deep enough that they're easily avoided though. She overhangs a bit:


Easy 5th class scramble up the back:


And here's my fat arse for scale:


Between the overhang and a fair bit of broken glass at the base, I think I'm going to want a rope to go any higher.
Darwin

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Mar 19, 2014 - 01:49am PT
I'm awed bump, although it's still on the first page.

Shoot me now, but I even like the graffiti. 'Course it pales next to the wide crack and stud Willoughby's technique. But dude, no socks?
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