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Rolfr
Social climber
North Vancouver BC
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Dec 11, 2012 - 01:28am PT
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I thought this thread was about climbing partners , not "Rules"
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Dec 11, 2012 - 01:37am PT
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Fritz, your mention of Avery damn near brought a tear to the ol' eyeball...
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Nohea
Trad climber
Living Outside the Statist Quo
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Dec 11, 2012 - 02:19am PT
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Gotta say I was very impressed with a guy that takes care of bees from Colorado, in a week we did some off the records FAs and I remember being the most scared belayer as he climbed fearless up the choss of Hawaii. I remember the face but knott the name.
Crosby whom I did the Nose with was another great, watching him lead the pancake flake, placing gear every 20 -30 ft. A solid climber, and fun guy. Few years ago caught with him helo skiing, yet another adventure.
Ammon and Ivo....good fun and my first multi pitch.
My mentor Todd....call him my trad daddy.....and my friend.
Aloha,
Will
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TrundleBum
Trad climber
Las Vegas
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Dec 11, 2012 - 02:31am PT
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5 that have impressed you... hmmm
Tough question
Of course they all had an influence on my experience
'N since others have taken the liberty of naming (way) more than five I will as well.
early daze (New England)
Tom Callaghan
John Strand
Jim Tierney
Kurt Winkler
Paul (Base) Bousinault
Bob Rotert
John Bouchard
J.Dunn
Never climbed with but big influences:
Mark Ritchie and Photo by Webster.
somewhere in the middle ages:
John Rutt
Mark Grant
Bill Denz
Bob Scarpelli
Later daze:
Larry DeAngelo
Riley Winah
Joseph Smith
Jim Donini
CosmicCragsman
There's to many to name'm all'n yah said only five right?
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Fletcher
Trad climber
The rock doesn't care what I think
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Dec 11, 2012 - 02:43am PT
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1. Jim Heiser... my very early days of climbing. He never got too deep into climbing, but was/is a superb skier. Used to hang and ski with the likes of the Egan Bros. and others from that era. N00b epics at their best (i.e., we didn't die). Started a winery in Napa now (that's what happens when you hang around Apple for 15 or so years and pile up the stock options).
2. Clement Lam... found him on a sub peak of The Peak in Hong Kong rapping off a piece of choss (we took what we could get there). Many fun and crazy adventures ensued and it was good to have someone fluent in Cantonese (he was an HK local). Ah the life of an expat!
3. Jim Clement... an energizer bunny of energy. On long hikes our from an alpine objective, he'd be back at the car hours ahead of me and I was pretty fit in those days. Once of the nicest guys you'll ever meet. If you're gonna epic, you want him on your team. And do not, I repeat, DO NOT F*#K WITH HIS MORNING COFFEE! Owner/operator of Vermillion Valley Resort on Lake Edison these days.
4. 10b4me... no, "Jim" and/or "Clement" are not part of his name but his last name is common amongst renowned climbers and explorers. My go to partner for many years. Reliable, does what he says he's gonna do and shows up and on time. Super knowledgable about climbing history and peaks, passes and associated obscura. If you're ever out there wondering "What the hell is that?" it's likely he'll know and be able to tell you some related story. Knows when to be quiet too. Famous people know who he is.
5. There is no number 5. I'm a serial monogamist. Well, sooner or later there will be. Maybe one of my kids.
Eric
Edit: Actually, there is a number 5, see my post below (thanks 10b4me!)
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Allen Hill
Social climber
CO.
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Dec 11, 2012 - 03:03am PT
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Chuck Grossman
Bryan Becker
John Catto
Julie Carey
Vladimir Prochazka
And many others
Nohea, Dunn and Becker both raised bees. Jimmie got tired of it and gave the hives to Bryan. Bryan got bored and the boxes are still in his yard next to the toyota engine block which is next to the out house that has never been used. But I'm not so sure either have been to Hawaii.
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Fletcher
Trad climber
The rock doesn't care what I think
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Dec 11, 2012 - 10:47am PT
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Ah the inimitable Brutus. Another one of those people you never meet in person, but still feel you know so well (I first encountered him back in the wreck.climbing daze). Miss his presence around here.
I had the great honor of meeting the wonderful Ms. Em Knott in Bishop last month. A true delight!
Eric
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10b4me
Boulder climber
Somewhere on 395
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Dec 11, 2012 - 12:43pm PT
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Wayne Howard
Fletcher- we've had some great trips, and some minor epics
Hope to do some more with him in the future
From wbitd, Stan Harris, Brian Rennie
edit: forgot to add, in more recent times Cheryl, Shane, Chris, Cali
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Fossil climber
Trad climber
Atlin, B. C.
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Dec 11, 2012 - 07:10pm PT
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Jack Miller - absolutely solid, fun, great meeting of the minds.
TM Herbert - of course! You always came away with a laugh, and he made everything easy.
Dick Dorworth - just plain fun, easy going, good intelligent talk.
Mark Powell - you wanted to get up something, just tie in behind him and hang on.
Jerry Gallwas - got started with Jerry. First serious climb was hanging a school banner from the rival HS chimney at Chula Vista at night. Good thing we didn't get caught.
Well - Harding and Gary Hemming, too, of course. Both used to get worked up about things so were not always light hearted and fun to be with, but you couldn't beat the drive.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Dec 11, 2012 - 08:15pm PT
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Just five?! Not gonna happen. All my parners have been truly bitchin' people.
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Fletcher
Trad climber
The rock doesn't care what I think
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Dec 12, 2012 - 03:15am PT
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Actually, there is a number 5 and it was 10b4me who helped me remember him. Not sure how I forgot him! Maybe because I am in the fog of childrearing these days!
Derek Starr (formerly Roy Naasz): Met him as a random in JT Wonderland about 10 years ago. For about a year, give or take, we ended up doing a lot of things together, some at JT, but some more at Taquitz and Suicide. He really taught me a lot about leading and setting solid pro and for that I'm eternally grateful. When on the rock he was completely in a state of bliss. Except when sketched and fiddling to get a "perfect" placement! Then he'd start uttering stuff that would make a sailor blush! But he always seemed to work through it.
He was an entertaining character but eventually we lost touch. I did get to do Walk on the Wild Side with him, which was particularly fun since he was one of the first ascensionists of that route.
On the way home, we drove by White Lightning and I mentioned that was the first climb I ever did in JT. He thought for a moment and said, "You know, I can't quite recall, but I think I may have put up that route as well!" It was always interesting with Derek!
Eric
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philo
Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
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Dec 12, 2012 - 03:34am PT
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The unsung heros of Gunnison Climbing;
Tom Pulaski
Scotty Gilbert
John Pearson
John Rosholt
Jimmy Newberry
That's who.
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Dec 12, 2012 - 03:44am PT
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john bachar
hans florine
conrad anker
kim carrigan
sean leary
tommy caldwell
6 is a better number than 5
and the women's list is
vera wong
bobbi bensmen
roxanna brock
heather baer
sue mcdevitt
beth rodden
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Dec 12, 2012 - 05:09am PT
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Five turns into six, then seven, then a hundred... Couldn't keep it to five. Thus, a list who impressed (and by no means complete!)
Werner:
Bill Hatcher and Barry Ward:
Brad Quinn:
Barbella:
Steve Bosque:
Billy Bob Russell:
The incomparable BVB and Dan:
Chuck Wheeler:
Scott coz-mamma Cosgrove and Steve Sutton:
Dan Langmade:
Dave Insley:
Dennis Kemp:
Derik Hersey:
Eve Tallman:
Fred Beckey and Calvin Hebert:
The Gang:
Grant Hiskes:
herb Swedlund:
Kazoo:
Kurt Smith:
Mike Lechlinski:
Mugs Stump:
Paul Pritchard:
Paul Hoskins:
Steve Quinlan:
Roger Dale:
Roxy Paine:
Thom Englebach:
Walt Shipley:
Watusi:
Last but definitely not least, Xaver Bongard:
So many more! To be continued.... Nice thread!
EDIT--> thanks for the comments below. I got kicked into a bit of reminisce mode when Cam Burns asked me about an ancient quote of mine (about sandstone climbing) that required searching my computer for material, and then saw this cool thread. Already I'm making a mental list of many other folks whose pictures to search for on my hard drive...
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can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
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Dec 12, 2012 - 08:07am PT
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There's been a more then 5 but my memories are fading these days.
E
Mo
Mari
Lynn Hill
Dave Bruckman
Dave Nettle
Kevin Worrall
Mike Paul
Tom Gilje
Fred Ziel
Kevin Ludwig
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Dec 12, 2012 - 12:07pm PT
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Philo, I mentioned the same group you did up thread, but I also included YOU, Nigro and Dickerson.
Peace Brother
Moss
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philo
Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
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Dec 12, 2012 - 12:55pm PT
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Ydpl8s thanks for the, in my case, undeserved kudos.
I have many more but kept it to the requested five.
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Fletcher
Trad climber
The rock doesn't care what I think
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Dec 12, 2012 - 01:04pm PT
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I think John Middendorf wins the prize for the most evocative collection of photos. A whole lot of spirit and zeitgeist captured in that post!
Love the first one of Werner... that is an interesting angle and take on a common theme!
Eric
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Dec 12, 2012 - 08:34pm PT
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Re Fletcher's comment:
I think John Middendorf wins the prize for the most evocative collection of photos. A whole lot of spirit and zeitgeist captured in that post
Indeed! A post that took some time to put together, and a truly awesome one.
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rick d
climber
ol pueblo, az
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Dec 12, 2012 - 08:41pm PT
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deuce-
I just did the teapot two months ago and ALSO bagged the coffee stir (the 100' tower on south end).
gimpy
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