5 climbing partners who have impressed you


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Trad climber
Placerville, California
Sep 16, 2011 - 10:58pm PT
#4 is that smegma-half-wit guy that posts here occassionally.
the dad hikes hard 11 crack;
keeps his coolness on serious face climbs;
has a fierce drive in the mountains;
is a great father;
has been a good life mentor for me for years;
sports a bit of good-ol-english brashness that
checks my soaring prides.

yea, aiden is a great climbing partner.

Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
Sep 17, 2011 - 12:30am PT
A few that really stand out for me -

Wendell Broussard - the "Dean of Red Rock" - he still climbs far harder then I do, he's almost 71 now. He's been patient with me and countless others, loaned his time and gear, is still the ladies' man, and is one of the most genuinely nice climbers I have ever met, let alone had the honor of roping up with. I can talk to Wendell for an hour and learn more then in a day out on the rock.

Bernd Arnold - one of the most influential climbers in Eastern Europe, he still climbs high 12s like they are level ground. You could write a book about how great this man is, and then some. Helped us out immeasurably on our Germany trip, and then invited us out to go climbing with him. A great experience to watch a true master in his element.

Dwain, aka Cosmiccragsman - even with his broken back and a destroyed knee, he outclimbs me, and I enjoy every pitch we climb together. He suffers a lot of pain on every route, and puts up with it as the price to pay for his fun. Always a great partner, and a great friend as well!

This is a great thread, thanks for sharing!

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Sep 17, 2011 - 02:25pm PT
Daryl Hatten
Dave Yerian
Kim Dao
Dave Webster
Don Gordon- never climbed with him, but I was impressed upon meeting him.

Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
Sep 17, 2011 - 02:59pm PT
Mine are all Gunnison - centric, but an impressive list non the less

1. The late Scottie Gilbert (younger brother of Michael Gilbert of Boulder fame), as fluid on rock as anyone I've ever seen.

2. The late John Rosholt, had the tenacity, strength and head for it better than almost anyone.

3. Bob Dickerson, no fear and an arm span that could reach anything. He free solo'd Bridalveil 4 or 5 times when it was illegal, had the Telluride cops on the run.

4. Tom Pulaski, vision, technique, and a quiet strength that set a standard in SW colo.

5. Can't forget my friend Phil Broscovak (Philo), I never met anyone that worked so hard to accomplish his goals than Phil. He still impresses me today.

Honorable Mention - Jim Nigro - Chuck Tolton - John Lafferty - John Pearson - oops! almost forgot the quintessential wildman Jimmy Newberry!

Trad climber
June Lake, California....via the Damascus Road
Sep 17, 2011 - 03:17pm PT
The word 'impressed' is a very difficult thing for me. It's fair to say that I am someone who is not easily impressed. I don't say that from any standpoint of cockiness, I just find that most are caught in a herd mentality these days, and it is those that manage to separate themselves from the rest of the sheep, that are truly impressive.

That being said, my list of five starts BITD, so here goes.

Tim Wagner - Though our years of climbing together are way back, when we were but kids, Tim impressed me with his inherent talent, quiet demeanor, boldness, and all-around humble style. Tim was ALWAYS motivated to climb WHATEVER! Where he impressed me the most, however, was his humble, positive nature, with no boasting of his accomplishments.

Earl Phillips - I met Earl in JT while I was soloing...he had dropped a piece he needed, and I soloed up and gave it to him. We became close friends and climbing partners, and he stuck with me through my difficult years when tragedy in my life had me low and hard to be around. Earl had to quit climbing after tearing his rotator cuff while following me up Insomnia, however, his willingness to mentor me through difficult times, stands as testament to his character. He was my best man when Leah and I married.

Bruce Lella - I met Bruce here on the east side, and I have always enjoyed his spirit of adventure, and easygoing lifestyle. When he took a 110-foot groundfall in the Owens Gorge a number of years ago, breaking everything but his head, he should have died. Not only did he survive, he got back on the stone, climbing a peak with me on the first anniversary of his fall. I love that Bruce is always up for long days in the mountains, but what truly impresses me is his indomitable spirit. He is...a survivor. From his first ascent of the Hallucinigen Wall, to NIAD, Bruce is the real deal.

Doug Englekirk - Doug is probably the most humble man I have ever met. Bursting with talent in virtually every aspect of his life, from climbing 5.14, building amazing custom homes, and being a fine family man, Doug is truly one of a kind. His boundless energy is quite unfathomable. We have built numerous homes together, and, after long days of framing, he is always fresh as a daisy, and ready to go crank hard routes. Doug has much to boast about, but you will only hear him boast of his Lord and Savior, Jesus Christ. I am honored to call Doug a climbing partner, but mostly, my friend.

Doug Nidever - Doug climbs amazingly well...for someone that should be dead. Our partnership began nearly 23 years ago, from cragging, to ice, to walls, and he has always been a ready partner. Doug has been one of the few partners I have had who shares my passion for alpine starts, and who can get out the door in literally a moments notice. He pushed me many times in his desire to go minimalist and light, including an ascent of the Regular on Half Dome with a rack he assembled....14 pieces. Though we had a falling out that lasted 10+ years, our recent renuniting as friends has been one of the most cherished experiences of my life. That he lived through a stroke and heart attack in January this year, and is now back on the stone, is testament to his tenacity. He also acknowledges the miracle of his survival, and knows that God is in charge. I am proud to know this walking miracle, and am so glad he is my neighbor right next door.
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Sep 17, 2011 - 04:52pm PT
Dave Evans
Tom Michael
Tucker Tech
Kelly Vaught
Cyndie Bransford
Greg Epperson
(I can't count very well....)

Very impressive group of climbers. Best partners one could ever ask for;......very impressive...

Here's more

Mike Lechlinski
Brian Povolny
Tony Sartin
Kyle Copeland
Mike Paul
Andrea (Tomaszewski) Gordon

I've been quite fortunate to have such aweseome climbing partners. Thank you, all.................

Sep 17, 2011 - 06:44pm PT
Walt Shipley
Tim Wagner
Werner Braun
Roland Arsons
Scott Cosgrove

Sep 18, 2011 - 11:00am PT
Not sure he's a partner as he's never around, but Alan Lester was just in town Friday, and although I couldn't get off work to go play, he got a lap in with a buddy and I recalled this fantastic story Caylor told of the 2nd ascent of Southern Belle. Since Alan hasn't been mentioned so far and Hank is in Greece, consider this a mention.


Shout out to Bob McMahon, who's good judgement overrode my youthful fire and lack of hubus at an ice wall in deteriorating conditions many years back on Rainer. Bob became my main partner from then on for over 25 years after that event till he got permanently dizzy after a trip to Peru, and quit climbing maybe 10-11 years back. We had a lot of fun and successful snow and rock frolics.
dee ee

Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
Sep 18, 2011 - 06:25pm PT
Todd Gordon
Todd Battey
AJ Burch
Margy Floyd
Craig Fry

A lot of my partners have impressed me and many are better by the numbers than these but these 5 did it more times than I can count. They have all impressed me outside of climbing as well.
__e Whitehouse

Social climber
Ouray, colorado
Nov 27, 2012 - 01:53am PT
The Verm, Matt Samet, Chuck Kroger, Vera Komarkova and, of course, Derek.
__e Whitehouse

Social climber
Ouray, colorado
Nov 27, 2012 - 02:01am PT
Duncan Fergeson, Rob Slater, Charlie Fowler, Kitty Calhoun and Eve Tallman...
__e Whitehouse

Social climber
Ouray, colorado
Nov 27, 2012 - 02:12am PT
Lynn Hill, Kevin Bein, Patrick Edlinger, Catherine Destiville and Todd Skinner, the little rascal!
The Larry

Moab, UT
Nov 27, 2012 - 02:41am PT
Brad Jerrett: I climbed the Grand Wall with Brad. We got a late start and
he lead all the pitches. Fun day.

Dean Potter: belayed Dean on Hong Kong phooie. That was fun to watch. I was a bit gripped that he might fall on me on the crux.

Steph Davis: heading out with Steph tomorrow. She is so good and is happy to rope gun the hard pitches.

Wally Barker: dude broke his back and he was climbing a few weeks later. I did some 11+ r route next to illusion dweller with Wally. He eats a can of tuna and a can of corn and brushes his teeth with his bouldering brush.

Ammon: just cragged with the pirate but Ammon is the man and I hope to one day do a wall with him.

There are so many more but those are the first to pop in my head.

Oh yeah new routing with Ivo. This is no joke.

Linus Platt
Andrew Liner
Oh and Tucker.

Shipoopoi was a blast to climb with and I learned some new things from him.

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
Nov 27, 2012 - 03:41am PT
One of my students, Cody Hall

Mike Paul

Dave Cotton

Jim Donini

Last but not least one of my old climbing mentors besided my Dad,
Don O'Kelly

Nov 27, 2012 - 04:07am PT
-Donini. old, SO fit, and still so psyched. all at the same time. and he was pretty young, pretty fit and pretty psyched 50 years ago too.
-G Lowe. academic carreer, job, family, climbing, he has achieved what i'd like to achieve in all these departments.
-Much Mayr. low key super hero of all terrains.
-Ammon McNeely. he's himself and that alone is badass. and then there is all the captain pushes...
-my 5. is the innsbruck climbing scene. no jealousy or competition, great fun times...
wayne w

Trad climber
the nw
Nov 27, 2012 - 04:38am PT
Chris Mac Namara
Hans Florine
Mike O Donnell
Brian Mc Cray
Steve Schneider
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
Nov 27, 2012 - 09:12am PT
Jim "Rubidoux" Wilson, My mentor when I started climbing in 72.
Went on to become a Stonemaster.

Dane Scott, I mentored him in the late 70's and he still sends hard at
age 55 putting up new .11/.12's at Mill Creek Montana.

Thanks guys,

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Nov 27, 2012 - 10:32am PT
Jim Wickwire - always had gud legal advice
Dusan Jagersky - freaky strong and I loved his accent
George Lowe - gud belayer
Steve Swenson - top-notch trundler
Vladimir Shataev - always had the best caviar and in kilo tins to boot!

What the hell were they thinking?
I guess we all have our moments of weakness.

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Nov 27, 2012 - 11:18am PT
My alpine partners- that's what separates the men from the boys:
John Bragg, Jay Wilson, George Lowe, Jeff Lowe, Michael Kennedy, Jack Tackle, Greg Crouch and Thom Englebach.

Trad climber
Dec 10, 2012 - 10:59pm PT
I was hypothermic coming of a desert thing
ropes got stuck, it was dark, tribal police were waiting for us
I remember thinking it is supposed to be bad when you stop shivering, and I was kinda seeing things that weren't there.
Dude jugged thirty feet up our stuck lines, no idea what they were stuck in, up there in the nightwind, cursing like a bastard, waiving our one A-5 hammer around. Turns his bottom jug upside down and beats the rope for about six minutes, until it finally fails.
takes the bar fight ride, jugs back to the belay, says: "it was a lot f*#king harder than I thought it would be to cut a rope with a goddam dull hammer ", we rap off and he is leaving single #1 nuts as his anchors as we make many small raps on this frayed thirty foot hank of rope.
But I got to lead the most emotionally important pitch of my life and the tribal police didn't feel like driving us to Window Rock.

So, you know, I guess Rick the Gimp gets top 5.

Mr. P
Bob Bichin'
Pinche' Pete

Gotta throw in Jeff McQueen
and all the Zoners

none of whom are gonna see this and none of whom will anyone here likely know. Except RTG.
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