5 climbing partners who have impressed you


Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
Messages 1 - 127 of total 127 in this topic

Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 16, 2011 - 08:13pm PT
Frank Henriquez: Ridiculous endurance. Would hang out in cruxes for very long minutes, then pull them. Used to get in top form from the couch in about 2 weeks. Did a 13c when his son was under 2 years old (some of you won’t get it).

David Wilson: It’s not too often you get to see a guy who weighs 100kg moving nicely up thin 5.12 face climbs. Saw him death-crimp flash a slightly overhanging V7 plastic problem while some youths stood by, mouths agape. (All failed to flash.) Would love to borrow those lower arms.

Isaac Cortes: In Spain, he flashed every 13a I saw him get on, sometimes several in a day. He fell once on Anabolica (13b), putting the draws on for another climber (he’d done it before) but lead it clean at the end of the day after working a project (13d) and doing the various 12s we had going at the cliff.

Harrison Dekker: Leading at your limit is so much about not rattling apart. Never climbed with anyone who had the ability to bear down, control their resonance, and make it happen on the lead at his limit like Harrison. Probably why he flashed 13s many years ago when few did.

Daniel Soto: Never met a boulderer less concerned about “taking it to the problem.” Daniel waits until the time is right, and if that means retreating into his hood and crashing for the whole session, so be it. But the right time does come, and Daniel has a nice collection of hard boulder problems to his credit, like Midnight Lightning and Bruce Lee.

Trad climber
Mar 16, 2011 - 08:40pm PT
Actually, I have been impressed with all of my climbing partners at one time or another, but here's five...
Erik Erikson
Kris Solem
Mike Flood
Gene Mayo
John Stark
Craig Morris
Larry Cote
Mark Hubbard
Troy Baily

Topic Author's Reply - Mar 16, 2011 - 08:50pm PT
nice rincon, but how about some details?
for me, a lot of what is rewarding about climbing is watching how your partner does well.

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Mar 16, 2011 - 09:12pm PT
Brad Young - having climbed well over 800 climbs at Pinnacles in perfect style (top to bottom no falls). At Pinnacles you know what this means. I think he said 853.

mynameismud - for putting up hard routes at Pinnacles in great style.

Jim McConachie - for putting up difficult and longer routes at Pinnacles in great style

Miwok - for 'taking it to the cliffs' with a relentless warrior spirit by fair means.

+1 on Dave Wilson - and he takes some good pics too and like many of our partners has a great appreciation for doing something new and/or backcountry.

Brutus of Wyde - for making things happen. big routes, small routes, and all with tons of fun (or suffering).

Mucci & Bosque - putting up a new grade V in the Valley ground up, and toughing out the dehydration on the FA... that can be so unbearable.

Nootsclimber - for firing hard CRSP problems in his 5.tennies regularly.

Wyde Crew - for providing the Wide a renaissance

I went over my catch and release limit of 5. Tough.

Boulder climber
the woods
Mar 16, 2011 - 09:34pm PT
Whitey, aka John Maclean. Foot work.

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Mar 17, 2011 - 12:19am PT
bump to keep this at the top

Trad climber
Top of the Mountain Mun
Mar 17, 2011 - 12:40am PT
Colin Nell (RIP) for always getting the job done with good Australian humor. He died so young, I miss this bro.

Richard Grode, my mentor and partner for over 20 years now.

Go Go Joe: Lead hog and good humored wanker always makes for a fun day.

Banks and Peggy O: Great partners and a fun crew. Plus Banks camp fire iron skillet steaks are the best in the west.

Lars Johansen: More balls than anyone I ever met. Send him good tidings, he had surgery this week.

My daughter, Bevin, Craig Clarence, Matteo, Ruth and Glen, and many more.


Topic Author's Reply - Mar 17, 2011 - 12:55am PT
Good luck to Lars, then.

Seems I'm a bit of a boor with the numbers and all. But those are shorthand for what impresses me most. Not what I admire most, though.

John Maclean--always heard that about his footwork. Or read it in an article somewhere. Would be a treat to see. Seems like a lot of very strong fingers around, but that laser precise, effective footwork--not common.

Trad climber
Santa Cruz Mountains and Monterey Bay
Mar 17, 2011 - 01:29am PT
John Gill
Yvon Chouinard
Royal Robbins
Frank Sacherer
Layton Kor
John Hudson
Bob Kamps
Tom Higgins
Bruce Morris

Social climber
Belmont, California
Mar 17, 2011 - 01:39am PT
Eric Weinstein
Chris Cantwell
Dave Austin
Urmas Franosch
Greg Murphy
Scott Cole
Elliott Robinson

A long way from where I started
Mar 17, 2011 - 01:43am PT
Haven't seen him in 25 years, but this guy was the best.

Credit: Ghost

Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
Sep 16, 2011 - 07:26pm PT

I only have two that standout:

My wife

We met climbing, "tied the knot" and are still on belay.

My current partner Pat Rinehart

All the attributes of the perfect partner: Always wants to climb no matter how easy the route, wealth of info on routes and how to get to them, knows all aspects of climbing and anchoring inside outside upside down so climbs go smooth and fast, patient, never bumbs on me for being out of shape and climbing several grades below him, never sprays.

If only only I'd had a partner like that when I started climbing.

Trad climber
Placerville, California
Sep 16, 2011 - 07:32pm PT
i shared a rope with TM Herbert once.
he was soloing around at pie shop, and eventually asked
if he could take a lap on a route we were climbing.
he had no harness, just tied the rope around his waist.

he was quite frantic, in a good way performing dynamic mantles and
such. and of course he was friendly as hell and quite impressive.

thats the only one,
other than my silent pardner impresses me, and i her.

Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
Sep 16, 2011 - 07:40pm PT
Mike Waugh
Kris Solem
Rich Grigsby
Andrew Rock
Herb Leager
John Bachar

All have/had great lead heads on runout trad and sport and have climbed hard for many, many years. Most are pretty damn fun when NOT climbing too, a trait I find equally important!
The Warbler

the edge of America
Sep 16, 2011 - 07:40pm PT



Greg Lowe
Tim Harrison


There's more, but those are the first that come to mind

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Sep 16, 2011 - 07:48pm PT
My top 5 are almost all self-explanatory:

(1) Bob Culp, my first mentor

(2) Layton Kor

(3) Larry Dalke

(4) Pat Ament

(5) Kelly Moore, an almost unknown Fremont Canyon master and early pioneer.

Sep 16, 2011 - 07:48pm PT
I think it was Eric Brand.

The guy was a fricken snail.

Unbelievably slow.

Once I went to do Astroman and he's starting some new route to the right of it and he's like 20 feet off the ground nailing this pile of sh'it.

I do the whole Astroman and get back to the base and he's like 70 feet up now, LOL.

But !!!!!

The guy does everything he starts, impressive !!!!

The rest are the usual gang Kauk Bachar Bard Warbler Grahmacii Duecy Coz Scott Stow Croft Hann The Bird all the Stonemasters Potter, James, Honold etc etc ......
Wade Icey

Trad climber
Sep 16, 2011 - 08:11pm PT
Walt Shipley
Dave Schultz
Pete Takeda
Bryan Law
My Wife

Werner, EB would be honored to hear that.

El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Sep 16, 2011 - 10:45pm PT
DRLZ in Hueco
DRLZ in Hueco
Credit: drljefe
Jim and Matty. My best bros. The Original AZ DRLs.
Big wall technician, bouldering freak, as solid as a partner(and human) as they come.
Giggolo, ape man, A.D.D., congero, crusher, one of those classic personalities in climbing. Everywhere he goes, from Fountainbleu to your local area, he's remembered.

Kerry. Graceful, strong. Forks.
Kerry. Graceful, strong. Forks.
Credit: drljefe
Kerry. One of my favorite climbers and partners. I learned so much technique from her. Precision footwork, graceful style, positive attitude. She drug me up some amazing crack climbs.

Credit: drljefe
Virginia. Respect. She's been at it a long time and still climbs with grace in her 60's. From the 70's Boulder scene to her current home in Florida, her life story, childlike wonder, wisdom, and grooviness continue to influence me to this day. Amazing woman.

Credit: drljefe
Colin. My oldest friend and partner. We got into climbing together in the late 80's. Built our first rack together. First JTree mission. Many firsts. During my 12 yr hiatus to be a surf bum, Colin remained a full time climber and now focuses on hard new routes in Flag and cruising wherever the season dictates. He is an outstanding climber and lifelong friend. I've always called him "The Sloth"- fits his calculated climbing style.
Oh, and instead of resoling, he just buys a new pair of Mythos. He eventually had a shed full, literally, and most weren't even ready for a resole. Finally, he gave them all away to needy, nooby, or worthy climbers in Flag. What a guy.
Credit: drljefe
Room to Shroom
Room to Shroom
Credit: drljefe
Credit: drljefe
"Debra" was a dirty girl.
"Debra" was a dirty girl.
Credit: drljefe

And probably the best partner, through thick and thin-
Credit: drljefe
RIP girl. Her ashes spread at Granite Mountain, her favorite place.


Trad climber
Placerville, California
Sep 16, 2011 - 10:54pm PT
it was my good fortune to spend a couple of days
climbing with Paul Crawford.

the guy has put up tons of good, ground up routes in the tahoe area (and beyond), most of which i can't touch due to their difficulty and
sparcity of protection.

paul is great company. humble and straight foward,
he has taught me a lot in the little time that i've known him.

so now im up to (3):

Trad climber
Placerville, California
Sep 16, 2011 - 10:58pm PT
#4 is that smegma-half-wit guy that posts here occassionally.
the dad hikes hard 11 crack;
keeps his coolness on serious face climbs;
has a fierce drive in the mountains;
is a great father;
has been a good life mentor for me for years;
sports a bit of good-ol-english brashness that
checks my soaring prides.

yea, aiden is a great climbing partner.

Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
Sep 17, 2011 - 12:30am PT
A few that really stand out for me -

Wendell Broussard - the "Dean of Red Rock" - he still climbs far harder then I do, he's almost 71 now. He's been patient with me and countless others, loaned his time and gear, is still the ladies' man, and is one of the most genuinely nice climbers I have ever met, let alone had the honor of roping up with. I can talk to Wendell for an hour and learn more then in a day out on the rock.

Bernd Arnold - one of the most influential climbers in Eastern Europe, he still climbs high 12s like they are level ground. You could write a book about how great this man is, and then some. Helped us out immeasurably on our Germany trip, and then invited us out to go climbing with him. A great experience to watch a true master in his element.

Dwain, aka Cosmiccragsman - even with his broken back and a destroyed knee, he outclimbs me, and I enjoy every pitch we climb together. He suffers a lot of pain on every route, and puts up with it as the price to pay for his fun. Always a great partner, and a great friend as well!

This is a great thread, thanks for sharing!

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Sep 17, 2011 - 02:25pm PT
Daryl Hatten
Dave Yerian
Kim Dao
Dave Webster
Don Gordon- never climbed with him, but I was impressed upon meeting him.

Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
Sep 17, 2011 - 02:59pm PT
Mine are all Gunnison - centric, but an impressive list non the less

1. The late Scottie Gilbert (younger brother of Michael Gilbert of Boulder fame), as fluid on rock as anyone I've ever seen.

2. The late John Rosholt, had the tenacity, strength and head for it better than almost anyone.

3. Bob Dickerson, no fear and an arm span that could reach anything. He free solo'd Bridalveil 4 or 5 times when it was illegal, had the Telluride cops on the run.

4. Tom Pulaski, vision, technique, and a quiet strength that set a standard in SW colo.

5. Can't forget my friend Phil Broscovak (Philo), I never met anyone that worked so hard to accomplish his goals than Phil. He still impresses me today.

Honorable Mention - Jim Nigro - Chuck Tolton - John Lafferty - John Pearson - oops! almost forgot the quintessential wildman Jimmy Newberry!

Trad climber
June Lake, California....via the Damascus Road
Sep 17, 2011 - 03:17pm PT
The word 'impressed' is a very difficult thing for me. It's fair to say that I am someone who is not easily impressed. I don't say that from any standpoint of cockiness, I just find that most are caught in a herd mentality these days, and it is those that manage to separate themselves from the rest of the sheep, that are truly impressive.

That being said, my list of five starts BITD, so here goes.

Tim Wagner - Though our years of climbing together are way back, when we were but kids, Tim impressed me with his inherent talent, quiet demeanor, boldness, and all-around humble style. Tim was ALWAYS motivated to climb WHATEVER! Where he impressed me the most, however, was his humble, positive nature, with no boasting of his accomplishments.

Earl Phillips - I met Earl in JT while I was soloing...he had dropped a piece he needed, and I soloed up and gave it to him. We became close friends and climbing partners, and he stuck with me through my difficult years when tragedy in my life had me low and hard to be around. Earl had to quit climbing after tearing his rotator cuff while following me up Insomnia, however, his willingness to mentor me through difficult times, stands as testament to his character. He was my best man when Leah and I married.

Bruce Lella - I met Bruce here on the east side, and I have always enjoyed his spirit of adventure, and easygoing lifestyle. When he took a 110-foot groundfall in the Owens Gorge a number of years ago, breaking everything but his head, he should have died. Not only did he survive, he got back on the stone, climbing a peak with me on the first anniversary of his fall. I love that Bruce is always up for long days in the mountains, but what truly impresses me is his indomitable spirit. He is...a survivor. From his first ascent of the Hallucinigen Wall, to NIAD, Bruce is the real deal.

Doug Englekirk - Doug is probably the most humble man I have ever met. Bursting with talent in virtually every aspect of his life, from climbing 5.14, building amazing custom homes, and being a fine family man, Doug is truly one of a kind. His boundless energy is quite unfathomable. We have built numerous homes together, and, after long days of framing, he is always fresh as a daisy, and ready to go crank hard routes. Doug has much to boast about, but you will only hear him boast of his Lord and Savior, Jesus Christ. I am honored to call Doug a climbing partner, but mostly, my friend.

Doug Nidever - Doug climbs amazingly well...for someone that should be dead. Our partnership began nearly 23 years ago, from cragging, to ice, to walls, and he has always been a ready partner. Doug has been one of the few partners I have had who shares my passion for alpine starts, and who can get out the door in literally a moments notice. He pushed me many times in his desire to go minimalist and light, including an ascent of the Regular on Half Dome with a rack he assembled....14 pieces. Though we had a falling out that lasted 10+ years, our recent renuniting as friends has been one of the most cherished experiences of my life. That he lived through a stroke and heart attack in January this year, and is now back on the stone, is testament to his tenacity. He also acknowledges the miracle of his survival, and knows that God is in charge. I am proud to know this walking miracle, and am so glad he is my neighbor right next door.
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Sep 17, 2011 - 04:52pm PT
Dave Evans
Tom Michael
Tucker Tech
Kelly Vaught
Cyndie Bransford
Greg Epperson
(I can't count very well....)

Very impressive group of climbers. Best partners one could ever ask for;......very impressive...

Here's more

Mike Lechlinski
Brian Povolny
Tony Sartin
Kyle Copeland
Mike Paul
Andrea (Tomaszewski) Gordon

I've been quite fortunate to have such aweseome climbing partners. Thank you, all.................

Sep 17, 2011 - 06:44pm PT
Walt Shipley
Tim Wagner
Werner Braun
Roland Arsons
Scott Cosgrove

Sep 18, 2011 - 11:00am PT
Not sure he's a partner as he's never around, but Alan Lester was just in town Friday, and although I couldn't get off work to go play, he got a lap in with a buddy and I recalled this fantastic story Caylor told of the 2nd ascent of Southern Belle. Since Alan hasn't been mentioned so far and Hank is in Greece, consider this a mention.


Shout out to Bob McMahon, who's good judgement overrode my youthful fire and lack of hubus at an ice wall in deteriorating conditions many years back on Rainer. Bob became my main partner from then on for over 25 years after that event till he got permanently dizzy after a trip to Peru, and quit climbing maybe 10-11 years back. We had a lot of fun and successful snow and rock frolics.
dee ee

Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
Sep 18, 2011 - 06:25pm PT
Todd Gordon
Todd Battey
AJ Burch
Margy Floyd
Craig Fry

A lot of my partners have impressed me and many are better by the numbers than these but these 5 did it more times than I can count. They have all impressed me outside of climbing as well.
__e Whitehouse

Social climber
Ouray, colorado
Nov 27, 2012 - 01:53am PT
The Verm, Matt Samet, Chuck Kroger, Vera Komarkova and, of course, Derek.
__e Whitehouse

Social climber
Ouray, colorado
Nov 27, 2012 - 02:01am PT
Duncan Fergeson, Rob Slater, Charlie Fowler, Kitty Calhoun and Eve Tallman...
__e Whitehouse

Social climber
Ouray, colorado
Nov 27, 2012 - 02:12am PT
Lynn Hill, Kevin Bein, Patrick Edlinger, Catherine Destiville and Todd Skinner, the little rascal!
The Larry

Moab, UT
Nov 27, 2012 - 02:41am PT
Brad Jerrett: I climbed the Grand Wall with Brad. We got a late start and
he lead all the pitches. Fun day.

Dean Potter: belayed Dean on Hong Kong phooie. That was fun to watch. I was a bit gripped that he might fall on me on the crux.

Steph Davis: heading out with Steph tomorrow. She is so good and is happy to rope gun the hard pitches.

Wally Barker: dude broke his back and he was climbing a few weeks later. I did some 11+ r route next to illusion dweller with Wally. He eats a can of tuna and a can of corn and brushes his teeth with his bouldering brush.

Ammon: just cragged with the pirate but Ammon is the man and I hope to one day do a wall with him.

There are so many more but those are the first to pop in my head.

Oh yeah new routing with Ivo. This is no joke.

Linus Platt
Andrew Liner
Oh and Tucker.

Shipoopoi was a blast to climb with and I learned some new things from him.

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
Nov 27, 2012 - 03:41am PT
One of my students, Cody Hall

Mike Paul

Dave Cotton

Jim Donini

Last but not least one of my old climbing mentors besided my Dad,
Don O'Kelly

Nov 27, 2012 - 04:07am PT
-Donini. old, SO fit, and still so psyched. all at the same time. and he was pretty young, pretty fit and pretty psyched 50 years ago too.
-G Lowe. academic carreer, job, family, climbing, he has achieved what i'd like to achieve in all these departments.
-Much Mayr. low key super hero of all terrains.
-Ammon McNeely. he's himself and that alone is badass. and then there is all the captain pushes...
-my 5. is the innsbruck climbing scene. no jealousy or competition, great fun times...
wayne w

Trad climber
the nw
Nov 27, 2012 - 04:38am PT
Chris Mac Namara
Hans Florine
Mike O Donnell
Brian Mc Cray
Steve Schneider
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
Nov 27, 2012 - 09:12am PT
Jim "Rubidoux" Wilson, My mentor when I started climbing in 72.
Went on to become a Stonemaster.

Dane Scott, I mentored him in the late 70's and he still sends hard at
age 55 putting up new .11/.12's at Mill Creek Montana.

Thanks guys,

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Nov 27, 2012 - 10:32am PT
Jim Wickwire - always had gud legal advice
Dusan Jagersky - freaky strong and I loved his accent
George Lowe - gud belayer
Steve Swenson - top-notch trundler
Vladimir Shataev - always had the best caviar and in kilo tins to boot!

What the hell were they thinking?
I guess we all have our moments of weakness.

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Nov 27, 2012 - 11:18am PT
My alpine partners- that's what separates the men from the boys:
John Bragg, Jay Wilson, George Lowe, Jeff Lowe, Michael Kennedy, Jack Tackle, Greg Crouch and Thom Englebach.

Trad climber
Dec 10, 2012 - 10:59pm PT
I was hypothermic coming of a desert thing
ropes got stuck, it was dark, tribal police were waiting for us
I remember thinking it is supposed to be bad when you stop shivering, and I was kinda seeing things that weren't there.
Dude jugged thirty feet up our stuck lines, no idea what they were stuck in, up there in the nightwind, cursing like a bastard, waiving our one A-5 hammer around. Turns his bottom jug upside down and beats the rope for about six minutes, until it finally fails.
takes the bar fight ride, jugs back to the belay, says: "it was a lot f*#king harder than I thought it would be to cut a rope with a goddam dull hammer ", we rap off and he is leaving single #1 nuts as his anchors as we make many small raps on this frayed thirty foot hank of rope.
But I got to lead the most emotionally important pitch of my life and the tribal police didn't feel like driving us to Window Rock.

So, you know, I guess Rick the Gimp gets top 5.

Mr. P
Bob Bichin'
Pinche' Pete

Gotta throw in Jeff McQueen
and all the Zoners

none of whom are gonna see this and none of whom will anyone here likely know. Except RTG.

Trad climber
Nor Cal
Dec 10, 2012 - 11:17pm PT
Bobby J.

edit: Zak

edit: Ben

edit: Maya

edit: Lynn

Westminster Colorado
Dec 10, 2012 - 11:57pm PT
Hey mad dog. Great gimp story. What route was that.

Social climber
North Vancouver BC
Dec 11, 2012 - 12:06am PT
And now for a Canadian perspective.
1. Gordie Smail
2.The Chief
3. Croft
4.Don Serl
5.Mighty Hiker, because there is more to our community than hard climbing.

They may not have been regular partners, but we shared a rope at one point and they left a lasting impression.

Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
Dec 11, 2012 - 12:18am PT
Five Climbing partners I was impressed with?
How about six?


The rules for me!
1. I climbed with them a lot.
2. They impressed the schist out of me.
3. I was awed by their abilities, attitude, and personality.

With those criteria: over the period from 1970 to now.

1974-76: Gary Clark, who was an incredible “energizer-bunny” climbing pal. I am surprised his name never pops up on ST, since he climbed a lot in Yosemite in the 70’s.
Gary Clark posing on top of W. Face Leaning Tower, 1975.
Gary Clark posing on top of W. Face Leaning Tower, 1975.
Credit: Fritz

1975-77. Dane Burns & Gwain Oka. We survived an incredible Hayes Range, AK trip together, and although we were peers: I was most impressed by those lads. Dane still posts on ST.
Dane & Gwain at Mt. Deborah Bivy.
Dane & Gwain at Mt. Deborah Bivy.
Credit: Fritz

1977-78. Mike Yokell was the first “big-name” climber I ever spent time with. Nothing but approaching lightning storms bothered him. Any news on him?
Mike Yokell at the rat-infested bivy below W. Face South Howser Tower,...
Mike Yokell at the rat-infested bivy below W. Face South Howser Tower, Bugaboos.
Credit: Fritz

1976-81. Mike Paine. A very smooth and capable leader. He was always there to lead that really challenging pitch on a new route, with no questions asked.
Mike Paine, taking a break near the top of our new 1977 route on Eleph...
Mike Paine, taking a break near the top of our new 1977 route on Elephant's Perch in the Idaho Sawtooths.
Credit: Fritz

1978-82. Avery Tichner. Avery was a “shooting star!” Some on ST remember him. He lived large and died young. I cherish my days of doing obscure new routes in Central Idaho with him.

Damn! I ended up without any good photos of Avery!
Here's a butt-shot of him leading a new route on the South Fork Clearwater River, Idaho.
Credit: Fritz

1979-now. Jim Donini. That man is durable and patient!

Credit: Fritz


Social climber
North Vancouver BC
Dec 11, 2012 - 01:28am PT
I thought this thread was about climbing partners , not "Rules"

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Dec 11, 2012 - 01:37am PT
Fritz, your mention of Avery damn near brought a tear to the ol' eyeball...

Trad climber
Living Outside the Statist Quo
Dec 11, 2012 - 02:19am PT
Gotta say I was very impressed with a guy that takes care of bees from Colorado, in a week we did some off the records FAs and I remember being the most scared belayer as he climbed fearless up the choss of Hawaii. I remember the face but knott the name.

Crosby whom I did the Nose with was another great, watching him lead the pancake flake, placing gear every 20 -30 ft. A solid climber, and fun guy. Few years ago caught with him helo skiing, yet another adventure.

Ammon and Ivo....good fun and my first multi pitch.

My mentor Todd....call him my trad daddy.....and my friend.


Trad climber
Dec 11, 2012 - 02:24am PT
1) My current partner and my student for the past eight years, currently waiting to see if she got into Duke School of Engineering. Have learned more teaching her to climb than she probably learned from me...

2) Kevin Calvert, taught me to sack up... took me a while to figure out how...

3) Elliott Robinson, how the hell else you think I took a liking to OW? Elliott has been a patient, enthusiastic and gracious as a teacher...

4-5... I'm still young, and I am careful about who I trust my life to...

I'll search for pics later...


Trad climber
Las Vegas
Dec 11, 2012 - 02:31am PT
5 that have impressed you... hmmm
Tough question
Of course they all had an influence on my experience
'N since others have taken the liberty of naming (way) more than five I will as well.

early daze (New England)
Tom Callaghan
John Strand
Jim Tierney
Kurt Winkler
Paul (Base) Bousinault
Bob Rotert
John Bouchard

Never climbed with but big influences:
Mark Ritchie and Photo by Webster.

somewhere in the middle ages:
John Rutt
Mark Grant
Bill Denz
Bob Scarpelli

Later daze:
Larry DeAngelo
Riley Winah
Joseph Smith
Jim Donini

There's to many to name'm all'n yah said only five right?

Trad climber
The rock doesn't care what I think
Dec 11, 2012 - 02:43am PT
1. Jim Heiser... my very early days of climbing. He never got too deep into climbing, but was/is a superb skier. Used to hang and ski with the likes of the Egan Bros. and others from that era. N00b epics at their best (i.e., we didn't die). Started a winery in Napa now (that's what happens when you hang around Apple for 15 or so years and pile up the stock options).

2. Clement Lam... found him on a sub peak of The Peak in Hong Kong rapping off a piece of choss (we took what we could get there). Many fun and crazy adventures ensued and it was good to have someone fluent in Cantonese (he was an HK local). Ah the life of an expat!

3. Jim Clement... an energizer bunny of energy. On long hikes our from an alpine objective, he'd be back at the car hours ahead of me and I was pretty fit in those days. Once of the nicest guys you'll ever meet. If you're gonna epic, you want him on your team. And do not, I repeat, DO NOT F*#K WITH HIS MORNING COFFEE! Owner/operator of Vermillion Valley Resort on Lake Edison these days.

4. 10b4me... no, "Jim" and/or "Clement" are not part of his name but his last name is common amongst renowned climbers and explorers. My go to partner for many years. Reliable, does what he says he's gonna do and shows up and on time. Super knowledgable about climbing history and peaks, passes and associated obscura. If you're ever out there wondering "What the hell is that?" it's likely he'll know and be able to tell you some related story. Knows when to be quiet too. Famous people know who he is.

5. There is no number 5. I'm a serial monogamist. Well, sooner or later there will be. Maybe one of my kids.


Edit: Actually, there is a number 5, see my post below (thanks 10b4me!)
Allen Hill

Social climber
Dec 11, 2012 - 03:03am PT
Chuck Grossman
Bryan Becker
John Catto
Julie Carey
Vladimir Prochazka
And many others

Nohea, Dunn and Becker both raised bees. Jimmie got tired of it and gave the hives to Bryan. Bryan got bored and the boxes are still in his yard next to the toyota engine block which is next to the out house that has never been used. But I'm not so sure either have been to Hawaii.
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
And every fool knows, a dog needs a home, and...
Dec 11, 2012 - 09:36am PT
Tom Oatman - steady climbing partner for 25 + years. Went climbing last Saturday, 100s of days on the rock and snow, in those 2.5 decades.

Kevin Beneda - walls, long routes, back country, front; went from anxious noob to snatching ALL the pebbles out of my hand in about 18 months.

Ken Hove - anchor-lap man, late in the day endurance, did my finest alpine climbs with this man, many of my finest ski descents too. Many a day ripping the shred too.

Brutus of Wyde - 'we can do it!' Didn't seem to matter how outlandish, how distant, how dangerous... we could do it. Mobilize!

Kaity Milktoast - she's my kid and everything she does impresses me.


Dec 11, 2012 - 09:58am PT
So many grand adventures with so many wonderful folks over the years-hard to do a top 5, Thanks friends for all the great climbs and l look forward to more.

Trad climber
The rock doesn't care what I think
Dec 11, 2012 - 10:47am PT
Ah the inimitable Brutus. Another one of those people you never meet in person, but still feel you know so well (I first encountered him back in the wreck.climbing daze). Miss his presence around here.

I had the great honor of meeting the wonderful Ms. Em Knott in Bishop last month. A true delight!


Boulder climber
Somewhere on 395
Dec 11, 2012 - 12:43pm PT
Wayne Howard

Fletcher- we've had some great trips, and some minor epics
Hope to do some more with him in the future

From wbitd, Stan Harris, Brian Rennie

edit: forgot to add, in more recent times Cheryl, Shane, Chris, Cali
Fossil climber

Trad climber
Atlin, B. C.
Dec 11, 2012 - 07:10pm PT
Jack Miller - absolutely solid, fun, great meeting of the minds.

TM Herbert - of course! You always came away with a laugh, and he made everything easy.

Dick Dorworth - just plain fun, easy going, good intelligent talk.

Mark Powell - you wanted to get up something, just tie in behind him and hang on.

Jerry Gallwas - got started with Jerry. First serious climb was hanging a school banner from the rival HS chimney at Chula Vista at night. Good thing we didn't get caught.

Well - Harding and Gary Hemming, too, of course. Both used to get worked up about things so were not always light hearted and fun to be with, but you couldn't beat the drive.

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Dec 11, 2012 - 08:15pm PT
Just five?! Not gonna happen. All my parners have been truly bitchin' people.

The irrepressable and perpetually psyched Jeff Leads.
The irrepressable and perpetually psyched Jeff Leads.
Credit: bvb

BK, the Tiny Dancer himself.
BK, the Tiny Dancer himself.
Credit: bvb

Credit: bvb

#1 son Kyle, killin' it at Santee when he was 7 years old.  Still crus...
#1 son Kyle, killin' it at Santee when he was 7 years old. Still crushing. Turns 20 next month.
Credit: bvb

Tucker and Dan.
Tucker and Dan.
Credit: bvb

Credit: bvb

TUSImomma.  Hard to believe this photo was taken over 35 years ago.
TUSImomma. Hard to believe this photo was taken over 35 years ago.
Credit: bvb

Steve Potter and "You got a pencil?" Dick Cilley.
Steve Potter and "You got a pencil?" Dick Cilley.
Credit: bvb

Lori crushing The Tombstone.
Lori crushing The Tombstone.
Credit: bvb

Greg, for sure.
Greg, for sure.
Credit: bvb

Colin and Jules, two youngsters who always give me the love.
Colin and Jules, two youngsters who always give me the love.
Credit: bvb

Sherman is always a good time.
Sherman is always a good time.
Credit: bvb

John and Ralph.  Always a hoot and my two most trusted ropeguns.
John and Ralph. Always a hoot and my two most trusted ropeguns.
Credit: bvb

This beautiful, angry woman.
This beautiful, angry woman.
Credit: bvb

Piggot for sure.
Piggot for sure.
Credit: bvb

Spencer and Tarbuster.
Spencer and Tarbuster.
Credit: bvb

The Scumbags.  Duh.
The Scumbags. Duh.
Credit: bvb


Trad climber
The rock doesn't care what I think
Dec 12, 2012 - 03:15am PT
Actually, there is a number 5 and it was 10b4me who helped me remember him. Not sure how I forgot him! Maybe because I am in the fog of childrearing these days!

Derek Starr (formerly Roy Naasz): Met him as a random in JT Wonderland about 10 years ago. For about a year, give or take, we ended up doing a lot of things together, some at JT, but some more at Taquitz and Suicide. He really taught me a lot about leading and setting solid pro and for that I'm eternally grateful. When on the rock he was completely in a state of bliss. Except when sketched and fiddling to get a "perfect" placement! Then he'd start uttering stuff that would make a sailor blush! But he always seemed to work through it.

He was an entertaining character but eventually we lost touch. I did get to do Walk on the Wild Side with him, which was particularly fun since he was one of the first ascensionists of that route.

On the way home, we drove by White Lightning and I mentioned that was the first climb I ever did in JT. He thought for a moment and said, "You know, I can't quite recall, but I think I may have put up that route as well!" It was always interesting with Derek!


Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
Dec 12, 2012 - 03:34am PT
The unsung heros of Gunnison Climbing;
Tom Pulaski
Scotty Gilbert
John Pearson
John Rosholt
Jimmy Newberry
That's who.

Big Wall climber
Dec 12, 2012 - 03:44am PT
john bachar
hans florine
conrad anker
kim carrigan
sean leary
tommy caldwell

6 is a better number than 5

and the women's list is
vera wong
bobbi bensmen
roxanna brock
heather baer
sue mcdevitt
beth rodden

Hobart, Australia
Dec 12, 2012 - 05:09am PT
Five turns into six, then seven, then a hundred... Couldn't keep it to five. Thus, a list who impressed (and by no means complete!)


Bill Hatcher and Barry Ward:

Brad Quinn:


Steve Bosque:

Billy Bob Russell:

The incomparable BVB and Dan:

Chuck Wheeler:

Scott coz-mamma Cosgrove and Steve Sutton:

Dan Langmade:

Dave Insley:

Dennis Kemp:

Derik Hersey:

Eve Tallman:

Fred Beckey and Calvin Hebert:

The Gang:

Grant Hiskes:

herb Swedlund:


Kurt Smith:

Mike Lechlinski:

Mugs Stump:

Paul Pritchard:

Paul Hoskins:

Steve Quinlan:

Roger Dale:

Roxy Paine:

Thom Englebach:

Walt Shipley:


Last but definitely not least, Xaver Bongard:

So many more! To be continued.... Nice thread!

EDIT--> thanks for the comments below. I got kicked into a bit of reminisce mode when Cam Burns asked me about an ancient quote of mine (about sandstone climbing) that required searching my computer for material, and then saw this cool thread. Already I'm making a mental list of many other folks whose pictures to search for on my hard drive...

can't say

Social climber
Pasadena CA
Dec 12, 2012 - 08:07am PT
There's been a more then 5 but my memories are fading these days.

Lynn Hill
Dave Bruckman
Dave Nettle
Kevin Worrall
Mike Paul
Tom Gilje
Fred Ziel
Kevin Ludwig


Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
Dec 12, 2012 - 12:07pm PT
Philo, I mentioned the same group you did up thread, but I also included YOU, Nigro and Dickerson.

Peace Brother

Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
Dec 12, 2012 - 12:55pm PT
Ydpl8s thanks for the, in my case, undeserved kudos.
I have many more but kept it to the requested five.

Trad climber
The rock doesn't care what I think
Dec 12, 2012 - 01:04pm PT
I think John Middendorf wins the prize for the most evocative collection of photos. A whole lot of spirit and zeitgeist captured in that post!

Love the first one of Werner... that is an interesting angle and take on a common theme!


Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
Dec 12, 2012 - 08:34pm PT
Re Fletcher's comment:

I think John Middendorf wins the prize for the most evocative collection of photos. A whole lot of spirit and zeitgeist captured in that post

Indeed! A post that took some time to put together, and a truly awesome one.
rick d

ol pueblo, az
Dec 12, 2012 - 08:41pm PT

I just did the teapot two months ago and ALSO bagged the coffee stir (the 100' tower on south end).

this just in

north fork
Dec 12, 2012 - 08:50pm PT
I would climb with the following any day.
Jeremy Ross
Grahm Doe
Matt Schutz
Kenny Rose
Cam Donnahoo
Kevin Ludwig
Barry Chambers
Brandon Mclemore
Tom Slater.

Hobart, Australia
Dec 13, 2012 - 10:29pm PT
Rick--very cool about the Teapot--has it been done much? We were amazed at how easy the route we found was--steep, overhanging, choss 5.8. Doesn't get much better than that for an easy FA of an unclimbed desert spire.


Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Dec 13, 2012 - 11:27pm PT
Since others have "cheated on the numbers" in listing their partners, Ireally need to add several more and for different reasons.

#1. Anne Carrier; the lady who became my wife and shared life with me until she succumbed to the ravages of Huntington;s Disease a few years ago. My Annie was the most tenacious and determined woman climber I've known. Climbed at a very high level.

#2. Gary Molzan; Did a schittload of hard climbs together in Colorado and Joshua Tree. Strongest bugger I ever climbed with, but had awesome technique.

#3. "Fritz"; for getting me back into climbing after a near fatal encounter with the ground a few years back
Jebus H Bomz

Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Dec 13, 2012 - 11:28pm PT
I need to climb with better climbers.

Dec 14, 2012 - 12:29am PT
Vern and Margaret Clevenger. Vern took this pic on Mt. Bloody, my 1st ...
Vern and Margaret Clevenger. Vern took this pic on Mt. Bloody, my 1st peak...
Credit: SmallWaller
Timmy O'neill, My first roommate & partner in the Valley 1990
David Clay, first wall partner, early accent Southern Man
Dave Shultz "You want to get over her, go solo the Rostrum" never did...
The Bird (drinking partner)
The Bird (drinking partner)
Credit: SmallWaller
My wonderful woman who keeps me young!
My wonderful woman who keeps me young!
Credit: SmallWaller
Ian king on highway star, Joe Conners, Brandon Andrews & everyone else...
Ian king on highway star, Joe Conners, Brandon Andrews & everyone else that's always ready to send something here in the Valley!
Credit: SmallWaller

Social climber
Salt Lake City
Dec 14, 2012 - 12:37am PT
Partners are the best piece of climbing equipment you can have.
There have been many good partners but some haven't been mentioned here.

Eric Beck
and my best partners
Renny Jackson
Barb Eastman

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Dec 14, 2012 - 01:11am PT
I'll substitute 'impressed' for 'inspired' me;

My mentor who pushed me into multi-pitch stuff, C-Dog, or Clark;

(Sitting on my tailgate)

And Kenny who's facing away from the camera in the last pic (cat-in-the-hat shirt). Always doing the run-outs that everyone passed over. He never fell either!

Ezra, who is a disciple of mine but now out-climbs me. A good partner. Solid;
Ez starting pitch#2.
Ez starting pitch#2.
Credit: bluering

And Kev is always an inspiration! Sometimes an overwhelming one! Here he is on an 'in-town' day with me at the local "tree surgeon".

The other one is deceased. She died in a bad lead fall on the Obelisk in King's Canyon. Ishun was always a happy, reliable partner. Did a lot of sh#t with her. Some TacoHeads got to meet her at a Facelift too. I remember you, Ishun. Rest in peace!
Me and Ishun hangin' after a route...She was a blast!!!!
Me and Ishun hangin' after a route...She was a blast!!!!
Credit: bluering
Gregory Crouch

Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
Feb 6, 2013 - 05:27pm PT
In no particular order, except for the first: Jim Donini, Alex Hall, Casey Newman, Greg Corliss, Kevin Bein, Mike Freeman, Barbara Devine, Paul Muhl, Kent McClannan, Jurgen Gruenvald, J Jay Brooks, Gary Ryan, Dave Light, Michele Hanson, Phil Krichilsky, Hans Florine, Tom Lambert, Andrew Lindblade, Susan Scheirbeck, Scott Metcalfe, Ned Crossley, Robyn Bunch, Sally Moser, Mark Robinson... and have had the opportunity to share the rope with such other luminaries as Chouinard, Frost, Roper, Steck, Chris Jones, Eric Beck.. good times... and apologies to any oversights, such massive quantities of fun absorbed through the years....

And, obviously, I can't count.

Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
Feb 6, 2013 - 06:07pm PT
The great (late) Brutus Of Wyde
Josh Mucci
Rob Behrans (aka Mungeclimber)
John Godar
Sue "Susu" Godar

Pat Brennan! - "There I wuz.....on The Spaaahhhhhrrrr!"

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Feb 6, 2013 - 06:37pm PT
Bob Van Belle
The American Legend!
Bobby Robert Van Belle
The Scumbags!

Trad climber
4 Corners Area
Feb 6, 2013 - 06:39pm PT
I'll stick to 5:

"The Doctor"- David Bloom
"Nature"- Doug Lafarge
"That's Papa Joto to you Son"- Fred Berman
"The Albatross"- Dave Bengsten
and Ib Toor (my original climbing partner)

That's quite the list there bvb, quite the list . . .

We gotta get out sometime, I'm sure I'd be impressed ;-)

Social climber
Feb 6, 2013 - 08:34pm PT
Thom Nephew--The original animal
Steve Araiza--The original Gumby. SO Easy going
Bart Cannon--The last honest man standing
Steve Angelini--Total Rope gun
Shaun Callahan--Great Attitude
Deb Murphy--For bringing us all back to earth
I'll throw Kevin Fosburg in here also- didn't climb much with him but he sure could get after it

Gold Canyon, AZ
Feb 7, 2013 - 12:53am PT
Regular climbing partners?

John Stannard
John Gill
Steve Wunsch
Vaino Kodas
Mark Jacobs
Corey Chatwin


Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Feb 7, 2013 - 01:58am PT
That's quite the list there bvb, quite the list . . .

We gotta get out sometime, I'm sure I'd be impressed ;-)

I suppose, to be perfectly honest here, I should include my ex-wife Jocelyn. During the 24 years that it was good, it was really good. She was/is a very special lady.

(for a creep.)

steve shea

Feb 7, 2013 - 10:17am PT
Steve Kentz
Lou Dawson
Larry Bruce
Molly Higgins
Jim Erickson
Earl Wiggins
Gordon Smith
John Long
Henry Barber
Andy Fanshawe
Greg Lowe
Chris Landry
A few too many but I've been climbing a long time. There's more.

Lake Tahoe
Feb 7, 2013 - 11:15am PT
Dan Martinez - He was climbing with me on his 60th birthday. I only out-climb him because I lack any sensible fear. He is in much better shape than me and I'm under 50.


Trad climber
East Coast US
Feb 7, 2013 - 11:31am PT
If I mention their names, it could get back to me and cause irreparable damage.
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Feb 7, 2013 - 11:37am PT
Max Jones
Peter Mayfield
Cheyne Lempe
Skot Richards

Trad climber
Less than a second shy of 49 minutes
Feb 7, 2013 - 11:57am PT
She was/is a very special lady.

(for a creep.)



Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Feb 7, 2013 - 11:59am PT
Here's three of them together!
L to R, Mike Seizys, me, Keith Royster, Doug McDonald.
Credit: survival

Throw in another. Will Gilmer on the left.
Credit: survival

Scott Davis, from the way back machine!
Credit: survival

In the middle.
Credit: survival

The king of entertainment, Lepton man.
Credit: survival

Of course my list couldn't be complete without Dr. J.
Credit: survival

Trad climber
So Cal urban sprawl Hell
Feb 7, 2013 - 12:14pm PT
Woody Stark, my absolute favorite! Helped toughen me up:-)
Woody Stark
Woody Stark
Credit: Karen

My daughter, Missy, that girl is one tough girl and so fun to climb with.
Credit: Karen

Dave Parish-Whiitiker, one of my first partners who has a great sense of humor and adventure.
Credit: Karen

Larry Sverdrup, another first climbing partner who patiently taught me to lead and was always encouraging.

Tracy Best, so many great memories of she and I, no picture however.

locker, love you guy, no one and I mean no can make me laugh like you can~ can't wait to see you !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Feb 7, 2013 - 12:23pm PT
Steve Bosque
Lars Johnson
Chuck Clance
Fabrizio Bittner
Ezra Allee
Jeff Scheuerell
John/Sue Godar

Yosemite Valley National Park
Feb 7, 2013 - 12:49pm PT
Platinum Rob
Cameron Tague
Mikey Shaffer
Micah Dash RIP
__e Whitehouse

Social climber
Ouray, colorado
Jun 27, 2013 - 06:02pm PT
Todd Bibler and by her reputation, Catherine Freer, Rosie Andrews, Junko Tabai-San, and last but certainly not least: Mr. Renny Jackson
__e Whitehouse

Social climber
Ouray, colorado
Jun 27, 2013 - 06:04pm PT
Jonny Copp (RIP)is No. 1
__e Whitehouse

Social climber
Ouray, colorado
Jun 27, 2013 - 06:13pm PT
hey jim, but what separates the men from the girls? what would rolo be?

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Jun 27, 2013 - 06:23pm PT
Wow Will Gilmer sighting!

I used to climb with him kind of a lot, he has impressed me in many ways!
Magic Ed

Trad climber
Nuevo Leon, Mexico
Jun 27, 2013 - 06:39pm PT
Jim Erickson
Pete Cleveland
Tom Kelley
Leo Houlding
Richard Harrison
Stevee B

Mountain climber
Oakland, CA
Jun 27, 2013 - 06:41pm PT
Aaron Ramras
Steve Ziff
Brian Cabe
Emily White
Justin Healy
Anxious Melancholy

Mountain climber
Between the Depths of Despair & Heights of Folly
Jun 27, 2013 - 08:43pm PT
never was lucky enough to have five partners, much less tie in with an impressive one. yup, just sitting in the backwater eddies watching all the impressive stuff slide on by.....

Gym climber
Jun 27, 2013 - 09:16pm PT
Ho, just a list of my best bud's in the world!

I enjoy and cherish the friends I've made from overseas.

Toby from the UK. Ahh, so much fun, JTree, Yosemite.

25" off the boulders on Baby Huey Smokes an Anti-pipeload, I'm urging:
"Please, just put that blue TCU in that perfect pocket..."

OK, here you go. Now feel better? ...

All those guys at the Needles.

Andy from NZ, just the best partners.

Shoot howdy!!
ß Î Ø T Ç H

/ ne'er–do–well
Aug 19, 2015 - 11:40pm PT
jeff constine

Trad climber
Ao Namao
Aug 20, 2015 - 07:40am PT
Erik Erickson
Scott Cosgrove
Dave Schultz
Bobbi Bensman
Kris Solom

Carry on~

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
Aug 20, 2015 - 09:36am PT
John Stannard
John Bragg
Steve Wunsch
Henry Barber
Rich Romano

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Aug 20, 2015 - 10:10am PT
Jim Wickwire
Dusan Jagerski
George Lowe
Al Givler
Vladimir Shatayev

what a bunch of name droppers!

Trad climber
No. Tahoe
Aug 20, 2015 - 01:08pm PT
Gene Drake
Victor Marcus
George Connor
My dad
My son
My daughters
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Aug 20, 2015 - 01:20pm PT
Millis--at JT and Yosemite
Ike Edie--at the Leap, Tahquitz, JT, Yosemite
Bridwell--on Outer Limits
Cosmic--out at Alessandria

Bonus picks--Cowboy Larry Moore at Consumes R. and Yosemite; and Randy Hamm, mostly in Yosemite and Indian Rock; and Jerry Coe out bouldering in C4.

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Aug 20, 2015 - 01:55pm PT
I've got to limit it to five? OK:

Ben Borson, because he was the first to show me what bouldering could be.

Mike Caldwell, because he put up with my incompetence and we still got up lots of good stuff.

Vern Clevenger, because his attitude that "it all goes" finally rubbed off on me - about three decades after I last climbed with him.

Dale Bard, because he was such a natural.

My wife, Adele, who's only climbed with me a few times in the 32 years we've been married, but who never turned back, even when she was having real troubles of mind and body. She takes that "for better or worse" stuff very seriously, and I'm the primary beneficiary.


Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Aug 20, 2015 - 06:03pm PT
John, you climbed with Mike C? We did a bunch of stuff together in the mid 80s. Lumpy Ridge, Devil's Tower, Josh...

Interesting guy, quite strong.

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Aug 20, 2015 - 06:25pm PT
All of my alpine partners because that is where, most definetly, the rubber meets the road.
Jeff Lowe
George Lowe
Michael Kennedy
John Bragg
Jay Wilson
Jack Tackle
Greg Crouch
Stefan Harmeier
Malcolm Daly
Thom Englebach

just southwest of the center of the universe
Aug 20, 2015 - 08:07pm PT
Mark Tuttle

Vince Depasque

Steve Sutton

Ofelia Cruz

Steve Seats

Dan Oppenheim

Jason Lakey

Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
Aug 20, 2015 - 08:09pm PT
Credit: Largo

Paul Gleason showed me how when I was a young punk.

Credit: Largo

Bridwell showd me how when I was a slightly older punk.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Aug 20, 2015 - 08:37pm PT
Mark Tuttle, yeah! Merced boy.

He messed up his back, quelle dommage.
Happy Cowboy

Social climber
Boz MT
Apr 2, 2016 - 06:04am PT
GDL, my first climbing mentor, George Lowe. Taught me survival on big unknown mountains.

Dave Pettigrew, joined forces in Alaska for our 71' Traleika 1st ascent on Denali. We survived a pioneer epic, my Iliad to this day. Toughest love ever received, though I never saw the latter. He @ 34yrs, I 17. A hero of counter culture for an aspiring hippie. He'd fled Chicago in 68' when the blood was up to his ankles. Ahab had nothing on DP.

Johnny Waterman, next from cold Alaska, Hunter 73'. Had a boatload of brilliance but tough to love. He still conflicts me to this day.

a lady that takes 1st billing, Shari McVoy. Any Valley rats remember? Rick Slyvester's GF for a spell. Met in Tetons 1n 70', Yosemite years later. 1st action photographer I'd met.

Valley favorites for me, Graham Mercer, a displaced Scotsman. Climbed Salathe w' in 77'. Dan McDevitt helped to feel at home out west. Remember being shook off Poker Face during the 88' Bay Area quake w' Dan there to catch my long tumble.

Pete Cleveland and Tommy Deutchler, the Devil's Lake F*#kness Club. Man could they crimp. "Bagatelle" was light years ahead in it's day.

Climbers ahead of the times, Stan Mish. Tetons mid 70's a 13 yr old runaway, crashed on the floor of my tent cabin for summer. Quietly ushered 5.12 into Arizona (my op). Waugh told me it took him 6 years to figure out Stan's 5.10's were 12's. No sandbag, just too young to know.

In the Stratosphere was Alex, the other Lowe, no relation to GDL, except boldness pulsed their veins. Proud to've known him before his discovery. Spoke "psyched" every day, and meant it!

Another "psyched" Bozo local, Doug Coombs. Never a climber when we hung, just a skier... later picked up climbing. Like Alex, an ascensionist.

Last not least Wolfgang, the only saint I knew. Met in City of Rock, Tuolumne. Physical specimen I never thought existed. Mega Rockstar with the personality of your neighbor.

Two women who have rocked my world, lil' Sue and her sister Penny. Shared many fun times and great climbs. Penny a partner like no other.

5 real trench mates:
Guy Toombes
Dave Carman
Jay Wilson
Glenn Milner
Scott Wade, did a 100,000 miles of climbing w' him alone.

Fossil climber

Trad climber
Atlin, B. C.
Apr 2, 2016 - 12:27pm PT
Belated addition (s):

Bev Johnson
Jack Miller

Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
Apr 2, 2016 - 12:55pm PT
It's hard to narrow it down to 5 but briefly:

John Bouchard who I did many long routes with in the US, and the Alps.

Jim Donini who continues to impress me, more for recent climbs where he still has the vigor of guys half his age.

Charlie Fowler for an impressive lead he did on a 1st ascent in the Wind Rivers, long ago - a long run out pitch.

Mark Richey who still keeps pushing his limits, after 50 years of serious climbing.

Henry Barber--When Henry was in his prime, he was pretty impressive.

John M

Apr 2, 2016 - 01:28pm PT
From Jim's list I saw Malcom's name and because I only knew him from here I decided to look up his name and found his account of his accident. Man.. My hats off to both you and Jim. thats just plain grit.


Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Apr 2, 2016 - 05:04pm PT
I limited my first post to the mandated 5 partners, but after considerable pondering, decided to add 3 more names:

(6) Anne Carrier (Raubach); who later became my wife, for her incredible hand and finger strength, when combined with a steel hard mind, made her a force to be reckoned with on difficult rock,

(7) Bob Lagrange; my mentor in alpine style climbing; took me on my first mountain walls (Hallet, Longs, Medicine Bow Diamond).

(8) Gary Molzan; one of JStan's early partners in the Gunks. Moved to Boulder in the mid '80s and climbed together a lot, especially in South Platte and Eldo.

Trad climber
Washington DC
Apr 2, 2016 - 07:56pm PT
Bill Denz because he was a bull in a china shop. What he lacked in ability he made up for in spades of balls.

Vern Clevenger, because he was so nice to me and showed me how to do Goldrush with really small hands.

Don Snyder, because we were just such a strong team together.

Lars Holbeck, because you got a world class boater along with a great climbing partner.

Stu Polack, because we grew up climbing together and did untold number of Yosemite routes.

Kelly Rich, because he was one of my students, a true natural and he let me house sit his house in Santa Cruz...for a year.


Apr 3, 2016 - 09:19am PT
Kris Solem - taught me to be a real rock climber
Erik Eriksson - committed to climbing, never compromising, climbing renaissance man
Seth Shaw - showed me the toughness it takes to succeed
Doug Coombs - my most memorable day in the mountains

The Hot Kiss On the End of a Wet Fist
Apr 3, 2016 - 09:40am PT
Dan McDevitt
Dave Schultz
Kevin Fosburg
Scott Stowe
Karine Nissan Croft

Social climber
Sep 5, 2016 - 03:26pm PT
Bump--my boy just called in from a quick road trip to the Red--Man was he stoked!

Trad climber
Sep 5, 2016 - 09:19pm PT
Bob Kamps X 5

Tom Higgins
Tom Patterson

Trad climber
Sep 20, 2016 - 05:47am PT
Dave Hersey (going back to the 70s, and still a great friend).
John Patterson (my older brother. We started climbing together in 1975, and had many epic near misses, based almost entirely on our self-taught ignorance. John passed away in '05).
Keith Patterson (my little brother, with whom I take at least one road trip a year).
David "Ghost" Harris (Seattle local--maybe you've heard of him. Always a great time roping up with him).
Tom Stargaard (Climbed a ton with him when still living in Nevada City, CA. Just spent the evening with him and his sweet family down in Sacramento, and caught the Reel Rock 11 screening with them at Pipeworks. Always positive, always game for anything).

The two Toms: Tom Stargaard on the right.
The two Toms: Tom Stargaard on the right.
Credit: Tom Patterson

Social climber
Sep 20, 2016 - 10:19am PT
David "Ghost" Harris (Seattle local--maybe you've heard of him. Always a great time roping up with him).


....or have spent days stormbound in a tent with him. :-)

Social climber
Sierra Eastside
Sep 20, 2016 - 04:53pm PT
I missed this the first time around.

Becky Franosch - I fell in love climbing with her, and never hit the ground.
Bruce Morris - For showing me the beauty of first ascents.
Michael Forkash - For always being psyched.
Hunter Sibbald - for being a solid partner and true friend.
Fred Berman - Unbelievably tough and composed when the going got nasty.
Sean Plunkett - Taught me how to place a good copperhead, and much more.
Tom Patterson

Trad climber
Sep 20, 2016 - 08:50pm PT
Tami: I should have also added, "Even when he's trying to kill you." ;-)

A long way from where I started
Sep 26, 2016 - 07:39pm PT
Wow. You drift away from SuperToprope for a few days, and miss out on being a "Top Five" partner...

David "Ghost" Harris (Seattle local--maybe you've heard of him. Always a great time roping up with him).

Awesome. ....or have spent days stormbound in a tent with him. :-)

Tami: I should have also added, "Even when he's trying to kill you." ;-)

What can I say? Other than that Tom is one of the finest people I've ever met. We've never climbed anything serious, but always had a great time. And, of course, even if the climbing itself wasn't serious, climbing with me was... Damn near killed him...

Here's Tom on the second (or third, not sure) ascent of Lanterne Rouge:
10c roof moves over big air. Onsight.
10c roof moves over big air. Onsight.
Credit: Ghost

And Tami? What can I say? Friends for forty years. Raised our families together. Saw each other through dark times. And every time we headed off to the mountains, we came back with... How do you even describe it? Can't. It's not describable. Hmmm... Well maybe it is... Check it out: http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Climbers-save-their-country-Yes-this-is-damn-on-topic/t11830n.html

No, Tami, just because they're stripey doesn't mean they're not underw...
No, Tami, just because they're stripey doesn't mean they're not underwear.
Credit: Ghost

And way back toward the beginning of this thread I tipped my hat to the best partner ever...
Another adventure with Ryan -- Baffin Island 1981
Another adventure with Ryan -- Baffin Island 1981
Credit: Ghost

Social climber
Sep 26, 2016 - 08:20pm PT
Ghost love.


Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Sep 26, 2016 - 10:15pm PT
Here's Tom on the second (or third, not sure) ascent of Latnerne Rouge:

And I thought I murdered French, and I'm not even supposed to know it!
I gotta get back to my chocolate moule dessert.
Messages 1 - 127 of total 127 in this topic
Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
Our Guidebooks
Check 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks

Try a free sample topo!

SuperTopo on the Web

Recent Trip Report and Articles
Recent Route Beta
Recent Gear Reviews