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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Aug 20, 2015 - 08:37pm PT
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Mark Tuttle, yeah! Merced boy.
He messed up his back, quelle dommage.
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Happy Cowboy
Social climber
Boz MT
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GDL, my first climbing mentor, George Lowe. Taught me survival on big unknown mountains.
Dave Pettigrew, joined forces in Alaska for our 71' Traleika 1st ascent on Denali. We survived a pioneer epic, my Iliad to this day. Toughest love ever received, though I never saw the latter. He @ 34yrs, I 17. A hero of counter culture for an aspiring hippie. He'd fled Chicago in 68' when the blood was up to his ankles. Ahab had nothing on DP.
Johnny Waterman, next from cold Alaska, Hunter 73'. Had a boatload of brilliance but tough to love. He still conflicts me to this day.
a lady that takes 1st billing, Shari McVoy. Any Valley rats remember? Rick Slyvester's GF for a spell. Met in Tetons 1n 70', Yosemite years later. 1st action photographer I'd met.
Valley favorites for me, Graham Mercer, a displaced Scotsman. Climbed Salathe w' in 77'. Dan McDevitt helped to feel at home out west. Remember being shook off Poker Face during the 88' Bay Area quake w' Dan there to catch my long tumble.
Pete Cleveland and Tommy Deutchler, the Devil's Lake F*#kness Club. Man could they crimp. "Bagatelle" was light years ahead in it's day.
Climbers ahead of the times, Stan Mish. Tetons mid 70's a 13 yr old runaway, crashed on the floor of my tent cabin for summer. Quietly ushered 5.12 into Arizona (my op). Waugh told me it took him 6 years to figure out Stan's 5.10's were 12's. No sandbag, just too young to know.
In the Stratosphere was Alex, the other Lowe, no relation to GDL, except boldness pulsed their veins. Proud to've known him before his discovery. Spoke "psyched" every day, and meant it!
Another "psyched" Bozo local, Doug Coombs. Never a climber when we hung, just a skier... later picked up climbing. Like Alex, an ascensionist.
Last not least Wolfgang, the only saint I knew. Met in City of Rock, Tuolumne. Physical specimen I never thought existed. Mega Rockstar with the personality of your neighbor.
Two women who have rocked my world, lil' Sue and her sister Penny. Shared many fun times and great climbs. Penny a partner like no other.
5 real trench mates:
Guy Toombes
Dave Carman
Jay Wilson
Glenn Milner
Scott Wade, did a 100,000 miles of climbing w' him alone.
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Fossil climber
Trad climber
Atlin, B. C.
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Belated addition (s):
Bev Johnson
Jack Miller
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steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
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It's hard to narrow it down to 5 but briefly:
John Bouchard who I did many long routes with in the US, and the Alps.
Jim Donini who continues to impress me, more for recent climbs where he still has the vigor of guys half his age.
Charlie Fowler for an impressive lead he did on a 1st ascent in the Wind Rivers, long ago - a long run out pitch.
Mark Richey who still keeps pushing his limits, after 50 years of serious climbing.
Henry Barber--When Henry was in his prime, he was pretty impressive.
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John M
climber
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From Jim's list I saw Malcom's name and because I only knew him from here I decided to look up his name and found his account of his accident. Man.. My hats off to both you and Jim. thats just plain grit.
http://malcolmdaly.com/accident/
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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I limited my first post to the mandated 5 partners, but after considerable pondering, decided to add 3 more names:
(6) Anne Carrier (Raubach); who later became my wife, for her incredible hand and finger strength, when combined with a steel hard mind, made her a force to be reckoned with on difficult rock,
(7) Bob Lagrange; my mentor in alpine style climbing; took me on my first mountain walls (Hallet, Longs, Medicine Bow Diamond).
(8) Gary Molzan; one of JStan's early partners in the Gunks. Moved to Boulder in the mid '80s and climbed together a lot, especially in South Platte and Eldo.
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martygarrison
Trad climber
Washington DC
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Bill Denz because he was a bull in a china shop. What he lacked in ability he made up for in spades of balls.
Vern Clevenger, because he was so nice to me and showed me how to do Goldrush with really small hands.
Don Snyder, because we were just such a strong team together.
Lars Holbeck, because you got a world class boater along with a great climbing partner.
Stu Polack, because we grew up climbing together and did untold number of Yosemite routes.
Kelly Rich, because he was one of my students, a true natural and he let me house sit his house in Santa Cruz...for a year.
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lcote
climber
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Kris Solem - taught me to be a real rock climber
Erik Eriksson - committed to climbing, never compromising, climbing renaissance man
Seth Shaw - showed me the toughness it takes to succeed
Doug Coombs - my most memorable day in the mountains
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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Bump--my boy just called in from a quick road trip to the Red--Man was he stoked!
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LongAgo
Trad climber
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Bob Kamps X 5
Tom Higgins
LongAgo
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Tom Patterson
Trad climber
Seattle
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Sep 20, 2016 - 05:47am PT
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Dave Hersey (going back to the 70s, and still a great friend).
John Patterson (my older brother. We started climbing together in 1975, and had many epic near misses, based almost entirely on our self-taught ignorance. John passed away in '05).
Keith Patterson (my little brother, with whom I take at least one road trip a year).
David "Ghost" Harris (Seattle local--maybe you've heard of him. Always a great time roping up with him).
Tom Stargaard (Climbed a ton with him when still living in Nevada City, CA. Just spent the evening with him and his sweet family down in Sacramento, and caught the Reel Rock 11 screening with them at Pipeworks. Always positive, always game for anything).
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Urmas
Social climber
Sierra Eastside
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Sep 20, 2016 - 04:53pm PT
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I missed this the first time around.
Becky Franosch - I fell in love climbing with her, and never hit the ground.
Bruce Morris - For showing me the beauty of first ascents.
Michael Forkash - For always being psyched.
Hunter Sibbald - for being a solid partner and true friend.
Fred Berman - Unbelievably tough and composed when the going got nasty.
Sean Plunkett - Taught me how to place a good copperhead, and much more.
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Tom Patterson
Trad climber
Seattle
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Sep 20, 2016 - 08:50pm PT
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Tami: I should have also added, "Even when he's trying to kill you." ;-)
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Sep 26, 2016 - 07:39pm PT
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Wow. You drift away from SuperToprope for a few days, and miss out on being a "Top Five" partner...
David "Ghost" Harris (Seattle local--maybe you've heard of him. Always a great time roping up with him).
Awesome. ....or have spent days stormbound in a tent with him. :-)
Tami: I should have also added, "Even when he's trying to kill you." ;-)
What can I say? Other than that Tom is one of the finest people I've ever met. We've never climbed anything serious, but always had a great time. And, of course, even if the climbing itself wasn't serious, climbing with me was... Damn near killed him...
Here's Tom on the second (or third, not sure) ascent of Lanterne Rouge:
And Tami? What can I say? Friends for forty years. Raised our families together. Saw each other through dark times. And every time we headed off to the mountains, we came back with... How do you even describe it? Can't. It's not describable. Hmmm... Well maybe it is... Check it out: http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Climbers-save-their-country-Yes-this-is-damn-on-topic/t11830n.html
And way back toward the beginning of this thread I tipped my hat to the best partner ever...
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Sep 26, 2016 - 10:15pm PT
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Here's Tom on the second (or third, not sure) ascent of Latnerne Rouge:
And I thought I murdered French, and I'm not even supposed to know it!
I gotta get back to my chocolate moule dessert.
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