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John Mac
Trad climber
Littleton, CO
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Feb 27, 2014 - 07:39pm PT
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What a sweat locking device... 200 to 300 dollars depending on the type. I wonder if you could use it leading...
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Rocky IV
Social climber
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Feb 27, 2014 - 09:40pm PT
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wearing fingerless wall gloves rapping a 9.5 static I have never had any real issues with a gri gri 1. without gloves rapping on a gri can suck, because you really have to control your descent with your brake hand and I've given myself rope burns due to carelessness. The autolocking feature makes it ideal (for me) when rapping with bags or cleaning the odd piece on rappel. I'd never use another device or prussik to back it up, the thing backs itself up.
In fact I don't think I'd ever not use it to rap while soloing... Often on traversing pitches or severely overhanging pitches (think P5 on tangerine trip) when you rap you're 50+ feet away from the anchor. On a gri you just let go and put your jugs on the rope to pull yourself back to the anchor. If you've misjudged the amount you need to lower you quickly release the lever and lower yourself a foot or two. Screwing with loosening and tightening a prussik on a ATC seems like much more of a hassle and has a higher chance of f*#kups.
/end ramble
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briham89
Big Wall climber
san jose and south lake tahoe, ca
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Feb 27, 2014 - 09:47pm PT
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I have to agree that grigri is an inferior and potentially fatal rappel device.
Why?? This thought has never crossed my mind. I'm curious, why?
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WBraun
climber
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Feb 27, 2014 - 09:53pm PT
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Also in the video there's a self locking biner that is being used with the device.
That is the same self locking oval biner I use for this application.
It's bomber .....
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Feb 27, 2014 - 11:39pm PT
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If you need the super-heat-dissipating capabilities associated with rapping with large loads, but still like to have a separate backup such as a prussik or shunt, consider one of the smaller four or five bar brake-bar racks. Although bulky, they're not any heavier than the older gri-gri's. As well as their ability to get rit of huge amounts of heat (no rope glazing!), you also have the ability to vary the amount of friction by adding or removing bars, or taking a wrap around the "hyper-bar". This can make for a much less gripping rap with a heavy pig, or a much less frustrating rap on low angled terrain.
K
PS I rap (slowly) with a gri-gri and it's relatives the Rig and I'D on a regular basis and am very comfortable them when used within their design parameters.
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Feb 27, 2014 - 11:50pm PT
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Another device on a similar principle is the Scarab by Conterra. Lower bulk, huge variability in friction, great heat dissipation, very sexy, available in a titanium option for a small king's ransom.
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Majid_S
Mountain climber
Karkoekstan
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Feb 28, 2014 - 12:13am PT
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I use 8 with side ears cause you can control descent , add or take friction,rap on double rope, rap with different size rope or rap with two people on the same device while none of these are possible with anything else
Also, ASAP does not lock right away, generally the caming wheel needs to rotate in reverse direction some distance before it can lock and typically is used with IRATA and rope access people as the second backup during fall.
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Feb 28, 2014 - 12:30am PT
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I've used both for rapping long distances (600+ feet in one shot) , and for lowering heavy loads. The Rig is rated to 200kg (450 lb) for a safe working load, and the I'D is a bit higher at 250kg (550 lb)
Both of them, and the gri-gri work well on decently clean ropes of the intended size. When you start getting into extremely dirty, wet, icy or muddy ropes, these devices get a bit jerky and unnerving. They're still safe if used carefully, just not as smooth and comfortable as something like an ATC type device or a brake bar rack.
I do like the ability to release the handle and simply stop. Some people complain of the gri-gri "releasing" or slipping when only partially loaded. This simply requires the user to maintain tension on it at all times, or switch to an industrial grade device like the Rig or I'D that have a complete lock function.
Majid - There are lots of devices that can be used to rap with two people at once including all of the ones I listed in my last few posts. Rescue 8's are great at dissipating heat, but nasty for twisting your ropes compared to in-line devices like racks or belay plates (ATC style devices)
K
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