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Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Nov 16, 2010 - 02:38am PT
Ok, I came in after the fact...The email I got from McNamara says,

"Welcome to this November 15,2010 edition of SuperTopo Climbing News

NEW NOSE SPEED RECORD BY DEAN POTTER AND SEAN LEARY. On or around November 6, Sean Leary and Dean Potter climbed the Nose of El Capitan in 2:35.45. They broke the old record of 2:37:05 held by Yuji Hirayama and Hans Florine. October 2008. According to Bullwinkle, "My bet is they'll go even faster."

That's a 1:20 second difference. So, which is it?

Nov 16, 2010 - 11:10am PT
"20 seconds ain't resoundingly better."Bold Text

'Scuse me?? How about Olympic times where tenths (or hundredths!) of a second spell the difference between victory and anonymity. Those kind of times on the Nose are clearly in the realm of Olympic athletic performance.

Anyone arguing otherwise either hasn't done the route or suffers from terminal penis envy.
Andy Puhvel

Nov 16, 2010 - 12:36pm PT
Props to Stanley and the Dark Wizard. However, more props to Hansi and Yuji. The first two are full blown valley locals, the best around, both known for their bold solos and risk taking acheivements, both in their 30's and pretty much pro climbers for years. Hans is 45, he has two kids to take care of and provide for, a full-time 40 hour a week job, and lives far away. Yuji lives in Japan and is also in his forties. I would be impressed if Dean and Sean beat the record by 20 minutes.....but 20 seconds....I suppose a cookie is in order.

Andy Puhvel

Trad climber
Mountain View
Nov 16, 2010 - 04:02pm PT

Guess the melting snow from last week is causing problems.

Good Luck Guys!


Nov 16, 2010 - 04:33pm PT
Um, which direction were they headed?
(had to ask)

Congrats to the locals!

(How long did it take to get down? */*)
the Fet

Nov 16, 2010 - 05:00pm PT
From the SF Gate article:

Leary and Potter want to lower their time and put the record beyond the reach of Florine, who intends to reclaim the record. They blamed Monday's failure on wet conditions.

I wonder if they really said that? I could see trying to set the bar as high as possible, but "beyond reach" may be wishful thinking.

I give big props to all of them. Setting big goals and reaching them. I hope they all appreciate each other because without the competition they wouldn't have the goal to go for.

Trad climber
Puyallup, WA
Nov 16, 2010 - 06:44pm PT
Impressive!!! I can't even imagine......

It is cool to keep track of your "car to car time" in addition to the route time, just for musing.

House to house times are where it's at, then you can combine climbing and auto racing.
Jenny M

Sport climber
Portland, OR
Nov 16, 2010 - 07:28pm PT
So Dean, this was the project?? Sa-Weet. Nice job, congrats!!!

Trad climber
new paltz, ny
Nov 16, 2010 - 08:41pm PT
i have always beeen more of a dean fan than a hollywood hans fan. props to you dean

Trad climber
Nov 16, 2010 - 10:58pm PT
when you start beating some record like this by 2 mins.you must have an official timer with communication with the summit.(along with your own stopwatch) can anyone fill me in on the timing procedures.even doing the nose in a day is huge.it has been fun watching all these climbs even if it has changed the atmosphere to a more european treatment of a peice of wilderness

Sport climber
mammoth lakes ca
Nov 17, 2010 - 12:02am PT
Chest beating egomaniacs....just kidding...

Social climber
escondido, ca
Nov 17, 2010 - 12:22pm PT
Who cares?

Trad climber
Nov 17, 2010 - 05:20pm PT
rotting johnny,yes they are. but unfortunately that is the natural progresion of all sports that we know and love(climbing,skiing,windsurfing,surfing,skateboarding,kiteboarding etc...)every sport i have been into has been beaten to death by the husband/ wife teams and type "A" personalities who are trying to make a living from sports that we cherish.and the quest for sponsership and bragging rights keep pushing the limits ever higher.
Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Nov 17, 2010 - 06:36pm PT
Not true Silver.

Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Nov 17, 2010 - 06:43pm PT
Last time it was cut by an hour+ was '91.

When was the last time it was cut by a minute+?

Kennewick wa
Nov 17, 2010 - 08:52pm PT
Climbers have been great about being honest, but a few seconds here and there is going to eventually lead to bad blood, acusations of mistakes and improprieties and disagreements that can't be resolved.

and crapping on ropes.

Trad climber
los arbor
Nov 17, 2010 - 09:15pm PT
Last time it was cut by an hour+ was '91.

When was the last time it was cut by a minute+?

@Piton Ron -

Below is the list from Han's site. It seems like most new records are minute+, sometimes the record gets broken by a team by a few seconds, but that team usually goes back out and breaks again by minute+ at least from what I remember. I'm sure Hans is not listing every little back and fourth in the record, but all the major breaks (the ones that last for more than a season) seem to be minute+. This will be like the marathon, where it eventually will be very difficult to break by a "substantial" amount.

1990 - 8:06 became the record then 6:40,(Steve Schneider and Hans Florine, then Dave Shultz and Peter Croft,- respectively)
1991 - 6:01 became the record then 4:48,(Andres Puhvel and Hans, then Dave and Peter, - respectively)
1992 - 4:22 became the record.,(Peter and Hans)
2001 - 3:59:35 became the record, then 3:57:27, then 3:24:20,(Timmy Oneil and Dean Potter, then Jim Herson and Hans, then Timmy and Dean again.)
2002 - 2:48:50 became the record, (Yuji Hirayama and Hans)
2003 - 11:50 became the record solo ascent (Hans Florine)
2007 - 2:48:35 became the record, then 2:45:45, (Alexander and Thomas Huber set and broke their own record)
2008 - 2:43:33 became the record, then 2:37:05, (Yuji and Hans)

Last Question:

current marathon record is 2:03:59

1)Will the marathon break 2:00? (it must right?) If so when? (the last 3mins took 20 years. Wow, talk about creeping along!)
2)Will the nose record ever be faster than the marathon?
3)Which will happen first the marathon under 2:00 or the nose faster than a marathon.

Super last question:

Is zodiac the only major elcap route to go sub 2:00?


Nov 17, 2010 - 09:25pm PT
Zodiac ≠ major EC route
Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Nov 17, 2010 - 09:34pm PT
Yes Silver. I talked to them on Monday after their climb. It was about 3 minutes behind their last attempt. Pretty darn good considering wetter pitches and an injured thumb. With the right conditions I think they will knock 5-10 minutes off.

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