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Bullwinkle
Boulder climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 6, 2010 - 05:54pm PT
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Two American Boys doing the Best they can, Dean Potter and Sean Leary. My bet is they'll go even faster. . .
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Gene
Social climber
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Fantastic! Today? Congratulations.
EDIT: BW, Last run of the year or are more coming?
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TYeary
Social climber
State of decay
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Wow.
They must be eating beans!
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enjoimx
Trad climber
SLO Cal
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Good luck. Be safe.
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Gene
Social climber
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This needs to be on top.
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WBraun
climber
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Yep ...
Saw the "Van" in El Cap meadows, and knew somethings up .....
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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
mammoth lakes ca
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the wilderness has become an outdoor gym for chest beating egomaniacs...
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The Alpine
Big Wall climber
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Old record: 2:37:05 Yuji Hirayama and Hans Florine. October 2008
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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That's a darn fast time for an ascent of the Nose by any measure.
Way to go there, nice job!
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Gene
Social climber
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20 seconds ain't resoundingly better.
But it's faster....
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James
climber
My twin brother's laundry room
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Good job boys! That's faaaaassst!
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kaitb
Big Wall climber
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Way to go Sean & Dean! Monkeys always send.
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Captain...or Skully
Big Wall climber
Transporter Room 2
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And they ain't just whistlin' Dixie, neither.
Right on.
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Jingy
climber
Somewhere out there
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Kick ass..
Nice burn
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Amazing !
What was Honnolds solo time ? Same ballpark isn't it ?
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Nice work, Dean and Stanley. They're just gettin' warmed up, give 'em a few more "tries" and see how they do.
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Bad Climber
climber
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When I think that the vast majority of marathon runners can't cover a flat course in 2:36, I'm left truly humbled. I once stood at the base of Moby Dick Center while a friend thrashed and dangled for over two hours. Finally topping out, he lamented, exhausted: "People can run a marathon in less time!"
BAd
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karodrinker
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Wow! Thats some mighty fast climbin there gentlemen. Proud work.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Outstanding achievement, but in a realm of diminishing returns not unlike today's time differences in running and swimming. The odds are good no one is going to do a sub-hour NAID. How realistic do you suppose a sub two-hour NAID is? Probably our equivalent of the four-minute-mile.
That amounts to a .37 second improvement per year between 1954 when four minutes was broken to the current 1999 record which is 16.41 seconds faster after 45 years. It's also interesting to note we spent 21 years in 3:5x territory and have spent the last 35 years in the realm of 3:4x. Looking closer at that it took eight years to push from 3.46 to 3:44 and six years to get to 3:43. In the eleven years since no one has repeated that feat. Wicked fast.
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Slakkey
Big Wall climber
From Back to Big Wall Baby
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Nice
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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"There you are, dear, 20 seconds faster than last night.
Now hand me that cigarette, will you?"
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Well, ruck me funning.
Edit- Hey Phil. Como estas?
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PhilG
Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
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Now that's smoking up that cliff!
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go-B
climber
Matthew 25:40
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Ding!
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
wussing off the topout on Roadside Attraction
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Ouch! Easy there Mike. 20 seconds over 2 1/2 hours is nobody's idea of crushing the old time. Maybe not 'insignificant', but not hugely different.
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Burt
Big Wall climber
Las Vegas, Nv
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boy 20 secs made a big difference to your wife the other night...
What a bitching thing for these guys to be doing. Chest pounding? Are we the ones witting about this or are they? Jealousy is a bitter thing, good for the boys, I hope they send again and faster. 5 secs or 20 secs or 5 minutes, they have the record and that is a pretty cool thing to go to bed thinking about in my opinion.
Kurt "Burt" Arend
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Of course the margins will get smaller and smaller...you start to approach the limits of human performance. Nice job guys.
Hudon, when you go sub 4hrs let us know, Mr. Badass.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Big Up to Dean and Stanley.
Is there a margin of error in the timekeeping? I mean, do all parties keep track the exact same way?
It's funny to imagine what you were doing during those same 2 1/2 hours. I probably made a cup of coffee, washed some dishes, and S, S, & S.
They? The Nose!!!
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karodrinker
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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How do they get get timed ? Independent judges?
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Kudos to Dean and Sean! I'm sure the wheels are already turning at Hans house for Spring. Woohoo, we got some action going!
I'm sure if Mark lived a little nearer the Valley, he would have no problem going 4 hours, the guys a animal. and he is simply stating the obvious. That when you selftime, 20 seconds is not a hugely definitive victory, but it is victory non the less. Maybe as the time margins are now so very very close, its time for Tom(or someone) to hold the stopwatch at the bridge and "go" and "stop" are called out. Just a thought.
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WBraun
climber
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They had a talking countdown stopwatch I believe.
I talks.
1 hour to go ...
1/2 hour to go ...
10 minutes to go ...
Like that .....
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HighDesertDJ
Trad climber
Swimming in LEB tears.
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the wilderness has become an outdoor gym for chest beating egomaniacs...
The Nose is 100 yards from the road in the middle of one of the biggest tourist destinations in the country. Complaining about this is like complaining about Muscle Beach getting too "showy."
Proud send guys. Always inspirational.
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WBraun
climber
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The Nose is 100 yards from the road
Uuummmm correction!
Did you measure?
Much farther .... :-)
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Captain...or Skully
Big Wall climber
Transporter Room 2
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Yards, in this case, refers to the average suburban yard.
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WBraun
climber
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Why you clever rascal you .....
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John Galt
Big Wall climber
puerta Natales, Chile
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Awesome job! Way to go Sean and Dean!
I would love to see how you did it, I hope some cameras were rolling. PLEASE let us all know if you go again, I would love to watch in person.
Inspiring.
Hans
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GhoulweJ
Trad climber
Sacramento, CA
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time for a "time clock" at the base and at the summit.
You would now punch in at the base and punch out at the summit.... Just another day at the office
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Jobee
Social climber
El Portal Ca.
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Well done; no hype, no bull, just fast!
Congratulations to you both.
Jo
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GhoulweJ
Trad climber
Sacramento, CA
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Man, this is fast.
Way to go guys.
I sure hope there is chance for us spectators to get a glimpse of your accomplishment.
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Matt
Trad climber
primordial soup
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that's awesome.
fun to see the various tough guys try different combinations.
personally, i'd like to see hans team up with alexH.
i wonder how may times dean and sean have done the route?
i recall dean and timmyO tried a few times, even going back and forth with hans/yuji, it would be interesting if they really tried to get it down as low as they can.
back when hanz and yuji got the current record, didn't they then stop trying? i guess i am just saying that the goal seems to have always been to hold the record, rather than to have the fastest time possible. what if a team got the record, then tried it several more times?
it's sick to think about how fast these guys could go...
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Nose speed record progression, from Hans' page
http://www.speedclimb.com/yosemite/thenose.htm
1958 - first ascent took 12 days on the final push. (48 days of work over 18 months)(Wayne, George, and Warren)
1960 - second ascent took 7 days,(6 nights)(Joe Fitschen, Tom Frost, Chuck Pratt, and Royal Robbins)
1963 - third ascent took 3.5 days.( Layton Kor, Steve Roper, and Glenn Denny)
1967 - 3 day ascent by party of two..(Jim Madsen and Kim Schmitz)
1968 - 2.5 day ascent.(Jim Madsen and Mike Covington)
[1969] - first solo ascent (Tom Baumann); solo speed record probably dropped several times between this and 1989
1974 - 1.5 day ascent.(Ray Jardine and Chick Holtcamp?)
1975 - the FIRST one day ascent was made, took about 17 hours and 40 minutes.(Billy Westbay, Jim Bridwell, and John Long) Did you know that Peter Metcalf and partner were on the route the day they did it?
1978 - The route was climbed by Mike Lechlinski and John Bachar in 15 hours
1979 - the route was done in under 13 hours.(Thierry ' Turbo' Renault + other)
1984 - Dave Shultz, and John Middendorf did it on the winter solstice in 10:47, Duncan Critchley and Romain Vogler did it in under 10 hours on the summer solstice.
1986 - the route was done in 10:05. (John Bachar and Peter Croft, they then went and climbed the NWRR on Half Dome)
1988 - 9:20? Xavier Bongard and Romain Vogler
1988 - first NIAD Beta/description written by John Middendorf.
1989 - first one day solo ascent was made.( Steve Schneider )
1990 - 8:06 became the record then 6:40,(Steve Schneider and Hans Florine, then Dave Shultz and Peter Croft,- respectively)
1991 - 6:01 became the record then 4:48,(Andres Puhvel and Hans, then Dave and Peter, - respectively)
1992 - 4:22 became the record.,(Peter and Hans)
1993 - 14:11 became the record solo ascent (Hans Florine)
1999 - 12:50 became the record solo ascent (Dean Potter, then he went and climbed Half Dome)
2001 - 3:59:35 became the record, then 3:57:27, then 3:24:20,(Timmy Oneil and Dean Potter, then Jim Herson and Hans, then Timmy and Dean again.)
2002 - 2:48:50 became the record, (Yuji Hirayama and Hans)
2003 - 11:50 became the record solo ascent (Hans Florine)
2007 - 2:48:35 became the record, then 2:45:45, (Alexander and Thomas Huber set and broke their own record)
2008 - 2:43:33 became the record, then 2:37:05, (Yuji and Hans)
2010 - 5:49 became the record solo ascent (Alex Honnold)
2010 - 2:36.45 became the record (Dean Potter and Sean Leary)
It will be interesting to see how many tries they took to get it.
Tom Evans had been hinting they were working on it, and Hans knew, too.
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Buju
Big Wall climber
the range of light
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kinda pathetic that this news seems less interesting to many people than whether or not obama should be called an n*&%$r.
WAY TO GO!
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jack herer
climber
Veneta, Oregon
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Ummm you left out the first solo ascent of the nose in 1969 by Tom Bauman
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go-B
climber
Matthew 25:40
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At this rate it would be cool to see a movie of it from start to finish!
Way to go!
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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The Nose start is 498 yards exactly from the road, as the crow flies.
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saa
climber
not much of a
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Odd, it's not on the front page of the San Fran Comical today.
Hee hee hee.
Hats down to the boys. Best wishes on the future runs.
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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I am completely in awe of these folks (all of them). These are absolutely incredible mind-body athletic feats.
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yogiclimber
Social climber
Martinez, CA
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WAY TO GO!!! Congratulations :)
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elcap-pics
Big Wall climber
Crestline CA
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Cool... anyone see it? Verified or unverified? What have the climbers themselves said about it? They are both great climbers, fully capable of doing that time, and I am sorry to have missed it.... always fun to watch the best do their thing!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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have fun out there...
great time!
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TomCochrane
Trad climber
I've lost track...
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Fantastic accomplishment!
How many people have exceeded my time on it with Claire Mearnz of 9.5 days??
(including a rainy night on Camp 6 with ?? (?)[per Clint] and Walt Shipley as they zoomed by in a little over a day)
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WBraun
climber
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Dean Potter and Walt Shipley as they zoomed by
Are you sure .....?
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TomCochrane
Trad climber
I've lost track...
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Werner, I am sure about Walt Shipley as we had a long conversation. I didn't really talk to his partner and didn't recall his name at the time. I just thought I had it figured out some years later. I just recall he was tall and incredibly skilled.
I think they had started out to do the Wall of Morning Light and apparently got into a disagreement and bailed off over to the Nose; I don't know by what connection. Walt came up to me a couple of pitches below Camp 6 and then we all huddled there when the weather deteriorated. Claire and I shivered under an orange rain fly. Walt had a portaledge and was the only person getting some sleep as the water dribbled down on us. Walt's partner shivered unprotected and then amazed me by disappearing in a flash up the next pitch at the first sign of daylight. I asked Walt about it and he told me, oh that's the standard these days. I replied, that oh, I used to think that I was a rock climber years ago...
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Hmmm, I doubt Walt ever climbed with Dean [edit: but I was wrong - see jghedge post below]. Maybe Walt with John Middendorf or somebody?
And having a portaledge and bailing onto another route is not something you would normally do in a single day. No doubt Walt + partner would be fast on the pitches above Camp 6, though.
What year? 1985 or later? [edit: 1985 matches up with Walt's being in Yosemite, the first year he had a first ascent that went into the guidebook]
In general, when unsure on somebody's name, wise to put a (?) after it?
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Fantastic job, Dean and Sean......and that fact that it was that close to the old record makes it even more exciting and cool......shows that it was a tough one to beat, but they did it anyways.....Awesome.....if they bet the record by alot...then it was too easy for them...........Next........
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TomCochrane
Trad climber
I've lost track...
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I couldn't tell you. The guy didn't say much of anything. Walt mentioned his name and I didn't catch it. I just saw pictures of Dean years later and thought it looked like the guy; never met either of them elsewhere. Too bad we can't ask Walt. I thought my rigging was very safe and conservative, but it didn't satisfy Walt and he made some firm suggestions.
Edit: With Claire in 1985. I didn't realize she had been to Yosemite before. We met in the Gunks.
Edit: I watched the whole thing from the meadow as Hans and Yuji made one of their record attempts on the Nose. It was very surrealistic watching them sail up things that have been so challenging to me. I never imagined living long enough to see my wildest dreams exceeded to such an extent. I feel greatly privileged; never mind what anyone may think of me or my contributions.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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I could see how one could mistake Dean for Deuce....
I dig how they rocked it late/end of the season.
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Cpt0bvi0u5
Trad climber
Merced CA
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Respect. I wouldn't be surprised if they pushed it faster.
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Stainless
Social climber
SLC, UT
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Looks like the El Cap report cashed it in a little early. F*#kin' A. Congrats, guys! Super impressive!
Got a call from Hans tonight. Impressed. Probably not yet ready to throw in the towel either, though he's not getting younger (adding to the challenge).
Next year = Good times.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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When I first saw this thread title, I thought it was some random numerology thing, like 10/10/10. I thought it was 2:34.56 or something.
So don't be surprised if somebody else posts a "New Nose Record!!111" thread.... :-)
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The Larry
climber
Moab, UT
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Awesome job doods! Sounds like a fun day.
I remember seeing Dean and Timmy doing the Nose in the time it took me to lead the golden finger of fate. I thought the folks in the meadow were cheering for me.
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Lithuanian
Trad climber
Reno
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I wonder if a big shot company would put $1M prize money for doing the Nose in sub 2 hours will it be ever accomplished?
People do crazy and totally unbelieved things when extra incentive is involved. Although, climbers would probably take too much of the risk and tragedy would be waiting to happen.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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I believe that was Cosgrove with Walt. They started up the other side of El cap tower to do something over there and for some reason bailed onto the nose. Some technical, logistical or gear issue involved, in route switching.
Th colonel met them at the base of the East ledges Raps, with beers.
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Lithuanian
Trad climber
Reno
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Yeah, that's the point. If those guys putting these time just for fun, how fast they would go if they actually spend a good part of the year training just for Nose. If big $$$ would be at stake, I think we would see some interesting action on the Nose and speeds we can't even imagine in these days.
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sac
Trad climber
spuzzum
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Haw maaan... stop it with the $$$$ talk dude!
You're makin' me.... cringe
sheesh!
carry on...
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Hawkeye
climber
State of Mine
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awesome job. that is cruising.
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TomCochrane
Trad climber
I've lost track...
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$$$$$ = lawyers = insurance companies = legislation
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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On timing: Hans and Yuji timed it with a stopwatch on Hans' harness. But there was always a large cheer when Yuji started and another loud cheer when Hans finished so other people were also timing them.
The Huber's beat the record at the time by a small amount, then came back and knocked some more time off.
Even if it's a 20 seconds they have the record. But it makes sense to run up it again while they have everything dialed and get the record as low as possible to try to make it harder to beat for the next team.
Hans and Yuji came back in the Fall to beat their own record from the early Summer because Yuji had a film crew from Japan. It must be nice to come from a country that actually appreciates world class rock climbing and you can make a good living as a pro climber.
Somehow I think neither of these two cares about the time in a global sense but are only in it for themselves and their personal bests.
Of course it must be a personal goal to climb the Nose that fast. You probably wouldn't do something so hard and risky unless the challenge was also it's own reward. But these guys had the record in mind. I'm sure they kept an eye on the time and were pushing as hard as they could on the last pitch, otherwise the times would not be so close and they wouldn't have bothered to time it down to the second.
Great stuff. It's great to see this aspect of climbing have so much activity in the last few years.
Hans is getting older but he's also managing Touchstone climbing gym now so he'll be able to train a lot more than before.
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Hawkeye
climber
State of Mine
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i think that this twist of modern climbing, the "timed" acent is pretty cool.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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The "timed" ascent is not really that modern - they were setting speed records on El Cap in the 1960s. Just the timing was in days and fractions of days.
As for taking higher risks to go faster, check out the entry on James' blog where he describes how Alex looked at some of the things Uli was doing and decided maybe this was not an acceptable level of risk:
"... Alex started watching Uli climbed, and realized how balls out Uli was going. Uli jumped between handjams, untied from the rope, mismanaged the gri gri while simul climbing, and generally went for it. Alex became concerned. ..."
http://jamesclucas.blogspot.com/2010/06/yosemite-notes.html
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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new Nose record, love it!
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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"The Nose start is 498 yards exactly from the road ..."
I could never climb the thing after drinking that much beer.
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micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
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Un-real. I just had a thought. If you had a five thousand foot superduperlight rope, threaded through rap rings on the summy, how long do you think it would take Yuji or Hans or these fools to burn a tope rope "lap"? Straight up climbing with a TR. One hour? Twenty five minutes? Twenty?
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Alex became concerned
When the dude who free soloed Half Dome is concerned about your climbing maybe you ought to be a bit more careful!
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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I think the record for rope walking one of the rappel lines on El Cap was about 45 minutes. So a lap on TR could be somewhere from 1 hour to 2 hours.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Werner, thanks for posting up Big Fall's blog... That's some finely honed writin' there.
FWIW, Platinum told me 5 ...
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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I always enjoy reading the Perez Hilton of rock climbing media.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Absolutely fantastic accomplishment and speed...Congrats.
Still, because timing of such things isn't not exactly precise in terms of exact stops and starts, and considering the overall picture, 20 seconds is for all practical purposes a Tie, and not any improvement over Hans and Yuji's fantastic time. It's hair splitting to call it otherwise, perhaps significant in track and field, but not in rock-climbing. There is plenty of margin of error here.
a Tie is still beyond great.
Of course, if they came back and did better, then that would be ....better! (just don't die dudes..)
But hey, there's really no official anything. If these guys want to say they did markedly better, and Hans, Yuji and the community buy it, then it exists.
Somehow I don't think Dean thinks like that. He's probably liking to zap up the stone and it doesn't hurt to have something for the sponsors either
Peace
Karl
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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The Nose record is a team achievement; it's not somehow Dean by himself.
So Delicate Arch is unrelated and old news.
Embrace the present.
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Is there some sort of established guidelines for timing speed ascents? Is it the leader to the top? Or is it the follower? Does there have to be specific starting and finishing locations for a particular climb or does each set of climbers just decide for themselves when they have topped out?
Bruce
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TomCochrane
Trad climber
Santa Cruz Mountains and Monterey Bay
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Coz, a cold, wet and slimey 5.11a pitch in half-light after a hypothermia night with no warm-up. Yeah, I was impressed!
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Disaster Master
Social climber
Born in So-Cal, left my soul in far Nor-Cal.
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the wilderness has become an outdoor gym for chest beating egomaniacs...
Have you climbed with either of these guys?
I have not climbed with Dean, But Sean Leary is not a "chest beating egomaniac."
Someone got up on the wrong side of the ledge!
DM
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Bruce, from Hans' site:
http://speedclimb.com/yosemite/
"Rules" of speed climbing
simple! - HAVE INTEGRITY
long routes in Yosemite valley.* :
The clock starts when the first person in the party takes off the ground or starting "ledge", the place where a "normal party" doing the route might begin roping up. The clock stops when the last person in your party gets to where a "normal party" would walk off.
It is cool to keep track of your "car to car time" in addition to the route time, just for musing. This is pretty self evident how to do, no?
Have fun.
And from http://speedclimb.com/yosemite/except.htm
The Nose route on El Capitan: Start time when leaving large triangle ledge at base of pitch one as per 98 topo. The topo shows that pitch one starts at the top of 200 plus feet of 3rd class or if you come from the left side after having done 40 feet of 5.7 and 50 feet of 3rd class. Stop time at anchors on slab just below two foot step onto slab and bushy "flats" that lead up to big tree. These anchors are about 40 feet down from the big tree. There are no bolts or anchors in between the tree and this "stop time anchor". Justification: most "normal parties" ferry their loads to the ledge at the base of the first pitch rather than outright roping up, so the The Climb starts here for most people. "I've always heard of people starting their time here" - not a justification in my mind but it is true. Most parties unrope at the top anchors described and shoulder their haul bags to carry to the tree 40 feet up, thus they are finished with the climbing portion of the program.
Wait a minute! I just read the above from Hans' site but I could have sworn they stopped their time when Hans touched the tree, not the anchors 40 feet below. I wonder what Dean and Sean used? I guess they could have still covered 40 feet in 20 seconds anyway. And they'll be back soon to knock some time off anyway I bet.
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Insults often say more about the person that is saying them, than the people they are directed at.
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bubble boy
Big Wall climber
topanga, CA
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Nice work monkeys! Keep the dream alive.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Yeah that whole Uli/Honnold thing was interesting to watch through the scope. Honnold, about 35' runout on the Pancake flake, in a lieback, foot slips...I'm thinkin' "holy shit!, that's not supposed to happen".
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blahblah
Gym climber
Boulder
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why do so many people call them "boys"?
I don't know anything about Leary, but Potter is pushing the big 4-0.
Great to know that people can still achieve super impressive records well after their physical peak has been reached and they're into their physical decline.
So I say: Nice job OLD FART(S)!
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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I thought we were calling them lads?
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Nov 10, 2010 - 03:04pm PT
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Bump.
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John Galt
Big Wall climber
puerta Natales, Chile
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Nov 15, 2010 - 05:15pm PT
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In Regards to The Fet: the description of the timing WAS the case when it was written.(2001) When Yuji and I broke the Timmy ONeill and Dean Potter time with 2:48:50 we also reported a few places as 2:48:25 I think. I did check the time as I went by the anchors described, but Yuji and I continued to the tree in order to be directly comparable to Timmy and Dean. The Hubers went to the tree and thus we have continued with that "consensus finish," using the Tree as the "finish line."
thanks The Fet, -I'll get to changing that on the site.
Hans
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Anastasia
climber
hanging from a crimp and crying for my mama.
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Nov 15, 2010 - 05:18pm PT
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Congratulations!
AFS
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Nov 15, 2010 - 05:22pm PT
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in track and field 20 seconds is an eternity. the time counts.
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elcap-pics
Big Wall climber
Crestline CA
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Nov 15, 2010 - 07:28pm PT
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What Matt said!
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Slakkey
Big Wall climber
From Back to Big Wall Baby
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Nov 15, 2010 - 07:32pm PT
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I agree I think Matt said it best
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Nov 16, 2010 - 02:38am PT
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Ok, I came in after the fact...The email I got from McNamara says,
"Welcome to this November 15,2010 edition of SuperTopo Climbing News
NEW NOSE SPEED RECORD BY DEAN POTTER AND SEAN LEARY. On or around November 6, Sean Leary and Dean Potter climbed the Nose of El Capitan in 2:35.45. They broke the old record of 2:37:05 held by Yuji Hirayama and Hans Florine. October 2008. According to Bullwinkle, "My bet is they'll go even faster."
That's a 1:20 second difference. So, which is it?
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hatestocarry
climber
gunks
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Nov 16, 2010 - 11:10am PT
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"20 seconds ain't resoundingly better."Bold Text
'Scuse me?? How about Olympic times where tenths (or hundredths!) of a second spell the difference between victory and anonymity. Those kind of times on the Nose are clearly in the realm of Olympic athletic performance.
Anyone arguing otherwise either hasn't done the route or suffers from terminal penis envy.
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Andy Puhvel
climber
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Nov 16, 2010 - 12:36pm PT
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Props to Stanley and the Dark Wizard. However, more props to Hansi and Yuji. The first two are full blown valley locals, the best around, both known for their bold solos and risk taking acheivements, both in their 30's and pretty much pro climbers for years. Hans is 45, he has two kids to take care of and provide for, a full-time 40 hour a week job, and lives far away. Yuji lives in Japan and is also in his forties. I would be impressed if Dean and Sean beat the record by 20 minutes.....but 20 seconds....I suppose a cookie is in order.
Andy Puhvel
Eastside
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climbactic
climber
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Nov 16, 2010 - 04:33pm PT
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Um, which direction were they headed?
(had to ask)
Congrats to the locals!
(How long did it take to get down? */*)
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Nov 16, 2010 - 05:00pm PT
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From the SF Gate article:
Leary and Potter want to lower their time and put the record beyond the reach of Florine, who intends to reclaim the record. They blamed Monday's failure on wet conditions.
I wonder if they really said that? I could see trying to set the bar as high as possible, but "beyond reach" may be wishful thinking.
I give big props to all of them. Setting big goals and reaching them. I hope they all appreciate each other because without the competition they wouldn't have the goal to go for.
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TMO
Trad climber
Puyallup, WA
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Nov 16, 2010 - 06:44pm PT
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Impressive!!! I can't even imagine......
It is cool to keep track of your "car to car time" in addition to the route time, just for musing.
House to house times are where it's at, then you can combine climbing and auto racing.
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Jenny M
Sport climber
Portland, OR
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Nov 16, 2010 - 07:28pm PT
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So Dean, this was the project?? Sa-Weet. Nice job, congrats!!!
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eagle
Trad climber
new paltz, ny
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Nov 16, 2010 - 08:41pm PT
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i have always beeen more of a dean fan than a hollywood hans fan. props to you dean
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brodracula
Trad climber
hawaii
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Nov 16, 2010 - 10:58pm PT
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when you start beating some record like this by 2 mins.you must have an official timer with communication with the summit.(along with your own stopwatch) can anyone fill me in on the timing procedures.even doing the nose in a day is huge.it has been fun watching all these climbs even if it has changed the atmosphere to a more european treatment of a peice of wilderness
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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
mammoth lakes ca
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Nov 17, 2010 - 12:02am PT
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Chest beating egomaniacs....just kidding...
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ATS
Social climber
escondido, ca
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Nov 17, 2010 - 12:22pm PT
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Who cares?
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brodracula
Trad climber
hawaii
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Nov 17, 2010 - 05:20pm PT
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rotting johnny,yes they are. but unfortunately that is the natural progresion of all sports that we know and love(climbing,skiing,windsurfing,surfing,skateboarding,kiteboarding etc...)every sport i have been into has been beaten to death by the husband/ wife teams and type "A" personalities who are trying to make a living from sports that we cherish.and the quest for sponsership and bragging rights keep pushing the limits ever higher.
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Nov 17, 2010 - 06:36pm PT
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Not true Silver.
Ken
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Nov 17, 2010 - 06:43pm PT
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Last time it was cut by an hour+ was '91.
When was the last time it was cut by a minute+?
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Srbphoto
climber
Kennewick wa
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Nov 17, 2010 - 08:52pm PT
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Climbers have been great about being honest, but a few seconds here and there is going to eventually lead to bad blood, acusations of mistakes and improprieties and disagreements that can't be resolved.
and crapping on ropes.
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matty
Trad climber
los arbor
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Nov 17, 2010 - 09:15pm PT
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Last time it was cut by an hour+ was '91.
When was the last time it was cut by a minute+?
@Piton Ron -
Below is the list from Han's site. It seems like most new records are minute+, sometimes the record gets broken by a team by a few seconds, but that team usually goes back out and breaks again by minute+ at least from what I remember. I'm sure Hans is not listing every little back and fourth in the record, but all the major breaks (the ones that last for more than a season) seem to be minute+. This will be like the marathon, where it eventually will be very difficult to break by a "substantial" amount.
1990 - 8:06 became the record then 6:40,(Steve Schneider and Hans Florine, then Dave Shultz and Peter Croft,- respectively)
1991 - 6:01 became the record then 4:48,(Andres Puhvel and Hans, then Dave and Peter, - respectively)
1992 - 4:22 became the record.,(Peter and Hans)
2001 - 3:59:35 became the record, then 3:57:27, then 3:24:20,(Timmy Oneil and Dean Potter, then Jim Herson and Hans, then Timmy and Dean again.)
2002 - 2:48:50 became the record, (Yuji Hirayama and Hans)
2003 - 11:50 became the record solo ascent (Hans Florine)
2007 - 2:48:35 became the record, then 2:45:45, (Alexander and Thomas Huber set and broke their own record)
2008 - 2:43:33 became the record, then 2:37:05, (Yuji and Hans)
Last Question:
current marathon record is 2:03:59
1)Will the marathon break 2:00? (it must right?) If so when? (the last 3mins took 20 years. Wow, talk about creeping along!)
2)Will the nose record ever be faster than the marathon?
3)Which will happen first the marathon under 2:00 or the nose faster than a marathon.
Super last question:
Is zodiac the only major elcap route to go sub 2:00?
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Nov 17, 2010 - 09:34pm PT
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Yes Silver. I talked to them on Monday after their climb. It was about 3 minutes behind their last attempt. Pretty darn good considering wetter pitches and an injured thumb. With the right conditions I think they will knock 5-10 minutes off.
Ken
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