Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
|
|
Werner, thanks for posting up Big Fall's blog... That's some finely honed writin' there.
FWIW, Platinum told me 5 ...
|
|
the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
|
|
I always enjoy reading the Perez Hilton of rock climbing media.
|
|
Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
|
|
Absolutely fantastic accomplishment and speed...Congrats.
Still, because timing of such things isn't not exactly precise in terms of exact stops and starts, and considering the overall picture, 20 seconds is for all practical purposes a Tie, and not any improvement over Hans and Yuji's fantastic time. It's hair splitting to call it otherwise, perhaps significant in track and field, but not in rock-climbing. There is plenty of margin of error here.
a Tie is still beyond great.
Of course, if they came back and did better, then that would be ....better! (just don't die dudes..)
But hey, there's really no official anything. If these guys want to say they did markedly better, and Hans, Yuji and the community buy it, then it exists.
Somehow I don't think Dean thinks like that. He's probably liking to zap up the stone and it doesn't hurt to have something for the sponsors either
Peace
Karl
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
The Nose record is a team achievement; it's not somehow Dean by himself.
So Delicate Arch is unrelated and old news.
Embrace the present.
|
|
bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
|
|
Is there some sort of established guidelines for timing speed ascents? Is it the leader to the top? Or is it the follower? Does there have to be specific starting and finishing locations for a particular climb or does each set of climbers just decide for themselves when they have topped out?
Bruce
|
|
TomCochrane
Trad climber
Santa Cruz Mountains and Monterey Bay
|
|
Coz, a cold, wet and slimey 5.11a pitch in half-light after a hypothermia night with no warm-up. Yeah, I was impressed!
|
|
Disaster Master
Social climber
Born in So-Cal, left my soul in far Nor-Cal.
|
|
the wilderness has become an outdoor gym for chest beating egomaniacs...
Have you climbed with either of these guys?
I have not climbed with Dean, But Sean Leary is not a "chest beating egomaniac."
Someone got up on the wrong side of the ledge!
DM
|
|
the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
|
|
Bruce, from Hans' site:
http://speedclimb.com/yosemite/
"Rules" of speed climbing
simple! - HAVE INTEGRITY
long routes in Yosemite valley.* :
The clock starts when the first person in the party takes off the ground or starting "ledge", the place where a "normal party" doing the route might begin roping up. The clock stops when the last person in your party gets to where a "normal party" would walk off.
It is cool to keep track of your "car to car time" in addition to the route time, just for musing. This is pretty self evident how to do, no?
Have fun.
And from http://speedclimb.com/yosemite/except.htm
The Nose route on El Capitan: Start time when leaving large triangle ledge at base of pitch one as per 98 topo. The topo shows that pitch one starts at the top of 200 plus feet of 3rd class or if you come from the left side after having done 40 feet of 5.7 and 50 feet of 3rd class. Stop time at anchors on slab just below two foot step onto slab and bushy "flats" that lead up to big tree. These anchors are about 40 feet down from the big tree. There are no bolts or anchors in between the tree and this "stop time anchor". Justification: most "normal parties" ferry their loads to the ledge at the base of the first pitch rather than outright roping up, so the The Climb starts here for most people. "I've always heard of people starting their time here" - not a justification in my mind but it is true. Most parties unrope at the top anchors described and shoulder their haul bags to carry to the tree 40 feet up, thus they are finished with the climbing portion of the program.
Wait a minute! I just read the above from Hans' site but I could have sworn they stopped their time when Hans touched the tree, not the anchors 40 feet below. I wonder what Dean and Sean used? I guess they could have still covered 40 feet in 20 seconds anyway. And they'll be back soon to knock some time off anyway I bet.
|
|
the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
|
|
Insults often say more about the person that is saying them, than the people they are directed at.
|
|
bubble boy
Big Wall climber
topanga, CA
|
|
Nice work monkeys! Keep the dream alive.
|
|
Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
|
|
Yeah that whole Uli/Honnold thing was interesting to watch through the scope. Honnold, about 35' runout on the Pancake flake, in a lieback, foot slips...I'm thinkin' "holy shit!, that's not supposed to happen".
|
|
blahblah
Gym climber
Boulder
|
|
why do so many people call them "boys"?
I don't know anything about Leary, but Potter is pushing the big 4-0.
Great to know that people can still achieve super impressive records well after their physical peak has been reached and they're into their physical decline.
So I say: Nice job OLD FART(S)!
|
|
steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
|
|
I thought we were calling them lads?
|
|
the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
|
|
|
Nov 10, 2010 - 03:04pm PT
|
Bump.
|
|
John Galt
Big Wall climber
puerta Natales, Chile
|
|
|
Nov 15, 2010 - 05:15pm PT
|
In Regards to The Fet: the description of the timing WAS the case when it was written.(2001) When Yuji and I broke the Timmy ONeill and Dean Potter time with 2:48:50 we also reported a few places as 2:48:25 I think. I did check the time as I went by the anchors described, but Yuji and I continued to the tree in order to be directly comparable to Timmy and Dean. The Hubers went to the tree and thus we have continued with that "consensus finish," using the Tree as the "finish line."
thanks The Fet, -I'll get to changing that on the site.
Hans
|
|
Anastasia
climber
hanging from a crimp and crying for my mama.
|
|
|
Nov 15, 2010 - 05:18pm PT
|
Congratulations!
AFS
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
|
Nov 15, 2010 - 05:22pm PT
|
in track and field 20 seconds is an eternity. the time counts.
|
|
elcap-pics
Big Wall climber
Crestline CA
|
|
|
Nov 15, 2010 - 07:28pm PT
|
What Matt said!
|
|
Slakkey
Big Wall climber
From Back to Big Wall Baby
|
|
|
Nov 15, 2010 - 07:32pm PT
|
I agree I think Matt said it best
|
|
illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Nov 16, 2010 - 02:38am PT
|
Ok, I came in after the fact...The email I got from McNamara says,
"Welcome to this November 15,2010 edition of SuperTopo Climbing News
NEW NOSE SPEED RECORD BY DEAN POTTER AND SEAN LEARY. On or around November 6, Sean Leary and Dean Potter climbed the Nose of El Capitan in 2:35.45. They broke the old record of 2:37:05 held by Yuji Hirayama and Hans Florine. October 2008. According to Bullwinkle, "My bet is they'll go even faster."
That's a 1:20 second difference. So, which is it?
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!