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Griff
Social climber
Felton, PA
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Aug 30, 2010 - 10:46pm PT
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I think Stone Groove was rated 10a when I did it. As a 5.9 climber at the time it was my first 5.10 and I got spanked. I remember thinking "Wow- these 5.10's are WAY harder!" I didn't "fall" I just "rested" on my gear a couple of times:)
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kent
Trad climber
SLC, Ut
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Aug 30, 2010 - 10:46pm PT
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That's easy, the hardest route is the one that I'm climbing.
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noshoesnoshirt
climber
Arkansas, I suppose
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Aug 30, 2010 - 10:48pm PT
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Every 5.9 in Arkansas put up before 1995 or so
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Aug 30, 2010 - 10:54pm PT
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The 1st move on Moby Center is tough.
But Moby Left is harder. :-p
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okie
Trad climber
San Leandro, Ca
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Aug 30, 2010 - 11:58pm PT
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Lots of wides are getting mentioned. Those are in a different category, I think, from what most people who are leading happy, well-adjusted lives would consider rock climbs. Wide ratings seem to make sense only in relation to other wides. They have their own ratings scale, although given in the familiar YDS terms. I think this is a wonderful thing, befitting these proud lines.
10a seems to have been a popular consensus rating for many of the moderate wides in Yosemite. There's quite a ticklist of wide at that rating.
I'd third the suggestion that Reeds Left is pretty stout.
I guess the hardest route rated 10a that I've NEVER done would have to be the short, somewhat ugly Orange Juice Avenue. I couldn't work the outside foot in that flaring OW.
Did Chingando again this last weekend- really off the couch and in horrible shape. I really milked those rest knobs obscenely...I was glad I had bigbros for the top, that was the first time I didn't have to run that part out. Imagine that route without the rests...With the rests it is fair 10a, I think.
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Seamstress
Trad climber
Yacolt, WA
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Aug 31, 2010 - 12:05am PT
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I'm no sandbagger - Bird on a Wire felt easy to me, the queen of whining. Nutcracker in NH at 5.9+ just rips you up, but thankfully you can sew it up. Irreverance at Smith has my number. I bailed at bolt 3 I think. Two lads offered to finish it for me, and both of them bailed. Eventually - hours later - I finished it. No desire to lead that again. Aja at Spider Wall in CT, I will never lead that. Every time I get on that it seems to be harder than the last time.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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Aug 31, 2010 - 12:06am PT
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Levy, Peter Eater, Pumpkin Eater was always rated 10d. But then I have seen lots of hard climbers get spanked on it.
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Brian
climber
California
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Aug 31, 2010 - 12:27am PT
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I agree with a number of the candidates above, but here is one nobody has mentioned yet...
O'Kelly's Crack at Josh. It's a 10, even in the guidebook; but everyone, even in the guidebook, acknowledges that it's 5.11 to get into the 5.10 crack...
Brian
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cmclean
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Aug 31, 2010 - 12:36am PT
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I've always thought Beverly's Tower is pretty tough for 10a...
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nutjob
Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
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Aug 31, 2010 - 01:23am PT
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Sorta in the ballpark of 5.10a....
What about the first couple pitches of Piece de Resistance on Moro Rock? All rated 5.9, but scared the living bujeezus out of me before bailing after pitch 3 or 4. Didn't get to the part they called "5.9 scary" or the 5.10b part.
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Petch
Gym climber
knapsack crack
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Aug 31, 2010 - 01:37am PT
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Blue Wind!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Aug 31, 2010 - 01:47am PT
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to refresh your collective memories, 169 5.10a climbs documented through the most recent guides:
A-5 Pinnacle
Absolutely Free, Right Side
Alley Cat
Apple Seeds
Arete Butler
Armed & Dangerous
B&B
B.T. Connection
Babble On
Bad News Bombers
Banana Dreams
Bare Necessities
Beer Pressure
Betty Comes Alive
Bikini Beach Party
Black Sunday
Bongs Away, Center
Bottom Feeder
Breezin'
Brown Sugar
Bunghole of the Universe
Cartwheel
Cat Dancing
Cereal Killer
Chairman Ted Scraps the Time Machine
Chingando
Conquest of the Stud Monkey
The Cookie, Left Side
Copper Penny
Crack of Doom
Crest Jewel
Crotch Cricket
Crying for Mama
Dark Shadows
Deaf, Dumb and Blind
Deep Throat
Deja Thorus
Desperate Straights
Diversions
Doggie Do
Drop-out
Dust in the Wind
Eagle
Edge of Feckness
Euellogy
Exciter
Fifty Crowded Variation
Fine Line
Flary Tales
Foaming at the Crotch
Fool's Gold
Forbidden Pinnacle
Free Press
Free Ride
Fresh Squeezed
Fuddy Duddy
Gang Bang
Geek Towers, Center Route
Girl Next Door, The, Right Side
Goat for It
Golden Bough
Gollum, Left Side
Guiding Light
Guru Crack, Right
Hand Job
The Hand Me Down
Hara-kiri
The Hawaiian
Hayley's Comet
Health Insurance
Hell's Hollow
Henley Quits
Higher Cathedral Spire, Southeast Side, East Corner
Highway Star
Hoppy's Favorite Direct
I Don't Know
Jaw Bone
Just Do-Do-It
Just for Starters
Katchup
Ken's Dream
King Cobra
Koko Ledge, Far Right
Koko Ledge, Right
The Last Resort Pinnacle, Center
LeNocturne
Lichen Madness
Lichen Nightmare
Light Weight Guides
Loose Tooth City
Lost Error
Lynnea's Birthday Surprise
Magical Mystery Tour
Maple Jam
Milk Dud
Monday Morning to Patio
Mongolian Clusterf*#k
Mr. Happy
Mr. Rabbit
My Rhombus
Neutron Escape
New Diversions
No Teats
Nothing Special
Nottingham
Now
On the Wedge
Open Trench
Orange Juice Avenue
Pandora's Box
Paradise Lost
Patio to Coonyard
Pee Pee Pillar
Peeping Tom
Peruvian Flake
Picnic
Pink Dream
Plumkin
Pohono the Barbarian
Pole Position
Porter's Pout
Priceless Friends
Prune
Pterodactyl Terrace, Left
The Punch Bowl
R and R
Rat's Tooth
The Reception
Red House
Reed's Pinnacle Direct
Rehab Doll
Renus Wrinkle
Resurrection
Revival
The Riddler
Roto Killer
Royal Cornpad
Run With Me
Sacherer Cracker
Safe to Surf
Say Mama, Say Daddy
Scott-Child
Second Thoughts
Secret Storm
Sex, Drugs and Violence
Shake and Bake
Siberian Swarm Screw
Skateaway
Sober Up
Sons of Yesterday
Sow Sow Sow
Spooky Tooth
Static Cling
Stay Lady Stay Back
The Steal
Straight In
Swillar Pillar
Tears of Joy
This and That
The Tooth
Trial by Jury
Twist of Fate
An Udder Way
Walk on By
Warm Up Crack
Weird Scenes in the Gold Mine
Wise Crack
Worst Error, Right Side
Y Crack
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Aug 31, 2010 - 11:29am PT
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Yeah. The Moby route mentioned a dozen times on this thread.
Phone typing = brevity.
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WallMan
Trad climber
Denver, CO
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Aug 31, 2010 - 03:11pm PT
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Caveat Emptor - Buyer Beware - Tetons.
Rosy Crucifixion - Eldo.
Wally
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Aug 31, 2010 - 03:18pm PT
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Thanks for the list Ed. Reminds me: Absolutely Free Right, Yikes!!
How about the first pitch of the DNB, hard for .10a.
And a 2nd vote for Bev's.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Aug 31, 2010 - 03:27pm PT
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The Comic Book in Joshua Tree has a bizarre and awkward start to the second pitch which the old guide calls 10a.
This one is just a matter of having to run it out through the crux, or else you'll fill up the foothold you need with gear. You either get gear and make it mid 5.10, or you don't pro the crux and it's 9+/10-
Hardest 10a? Doggie Do justifiably mentioned several times. Hmmm. Maybe Breakfast of Champions @ Index? Been a long time, but I remember that being steep and continuous especially if you link the Rogers corner pitch.
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Aug 31, 2010 - 03:41pm PT
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Cragman says:
Crescent Arch in the Meadows is called 9+. I'm good with calling it "feels like hard 10a".
USED to be called 9+ (Reid and Falkenstein). Tuolumne Free 2nd edition (SuperTopo) has it at 10.b
Which is it?
I haven't been up there (yet) so don't ask me.
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thedogfather
climber
Somewhere near Red Rocks
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Aug 31, 2010 - 04:24pm PT
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Aug 31, 2010 - 04:27pm PT
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Camera tilt ...
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!