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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 28, 2010 - 08:23pm PT
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I had forgot about the first two pitches of New Dimensions. The awkward fist, polished flare is tough for the grade.
I heard a well known Joshua Tree local say the first 15 feet don't count towards the grade. I guess this philosophy is based upon the idea that it is a bouldering grade off the ground. Peter Eater Pumkin Eater in JT is rated 5.10b but sure feels like 5.11 to me. That would be a good example if it were rated 5.10a.
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bjj
climber
beyond the sun
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Aug 28, 2010 - 08:31pm PT
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What's the 1st pitch of gripper rated? It might be 10b, but even if it is,it was still really hard for me. Awkward as f**k.
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Byran
climber
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Aug 28, 2010 - 09:05pm PT
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There's two that come to mind.
The Drainpipe was the first route I ever attempted at Indian Creek. Got shut down hard on that one. Thin hands and ringlocks are still not my thing and I was even less experienced with those sizes back then. Having to french free to the anchor on a 10a (or it might have been rated 10- ?) was sort of humiliating and I was pumped for the rest of the day.
The Comic Book in Joshua Tree has a bizarre and awkward start to the second pitch which the old guide calls 10a. I couldn't even figure it out so we just rapped after the first. Consensus seems to be that it's 10c.
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
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Aug 28, 2010 - 09:11pm PT
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No way is the first pitch of New Dimensions .10a! There are times I would have given it 10c for sure. I never felt totally secure on that pitch... weird, cuz it's all there...
Although only 5.9, the RIGHT side of the Grack was super scary way back in the day since it seemed like a total runout for 70+ feet on slick polish. No easy move since every move is the same. No way is that the same rating as Marginal.
Sorry, back to the 10a conversation.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Aug 28, 2010 - 10:14pm PT
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i'm working toward the Jtree route named Sweatband and genuine cowhide!
i watched my buddy the rock climb those free routes and became inspired!
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Norwegian
Trad climber
Placerville, California
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Aug 28, 2010 - 10:24pm PT
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to crack of dung
i just barely clung...
then, mantleing guano with
a mother and her chicks beaking at your cheek!
...
werksup at eldo is pretty good for the grade, 5.9+
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eliot carlsen
Social climber
San Diego
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Aug 28, 2010 - 11:26pm PT
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Sheila is a hard 10a
And 10a on the Outside at Woodson
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Aug 28, 2010 - 11:29pm PT
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Another vote for getting out of the bathtub on Comic Book.
Never have figured out how to do that one without yarding on a piece.
Anyone know the secret?
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Aug 29, 2010 - 12:10am PT
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The crux of LAC is hard but it has a bolt now, which I stepped over onto do the move so I haven't done it! Ha ha. Still of the 10as I haven't been able to to do I'd rate LAC as easier than Cookie Left, Doggie Do and Secret Storm. They all kicked my butt, though. So I guess I'm saying that if you can do Cookie Left, Doggie Do and Secret Storm you got a pretty good chance of doing the crux, and all the other 10a sections, of LAC. Give it a go, Bwaahahah! (evil laugh)
Zander
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Aug 29, 2010 - 01:52am PT
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Doggie Do and Henley Quits are both awkward as hell.
Left Reeds and Despair are also stout for the grade, as is R. Side of Hourglass.
Not so - at least for me - Center of Moby Dick. I used to free solo this whenever there was a rope there to rap on; fat fingers must make it easier. I honestly can't recall much but some locker fingers at the bottom despite doing it 50 times.
JL
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Aug 29, 2010 - 01:56am PT
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Any 10a at Index
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Aug 30, 2010 - 07:56pm PT
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Many holds have broken off piched rib since it was 5.8.
Excorcist and Bird on a Wire cannot possibly be graded higher than 5.10a. Actually Excorcist is the classic 5.9+.
If you want to get sandbagged on ".10a," go to Courtright and try Orgasm Addict. You'll cruise up all this nice athletic steep juggy stuff to a ledge. Then there is this thin slabby top out...
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Aug 30, 2010 - 07:57pm PT
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Moby Dick Center
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Aug 30, 2010 - 09:14pm PT
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Bird on a Wire I think they had at 10.b or 10.c in the books
back then.
I mean no offense, but I have to see that to believe it.
I have every old Josh guide at home, but I'm posting from the Ponderosa at The Needles (rest day) so I can't access them.
On Mtn Pjct there are 13 grade votes average 5.10a with one 5.10b and five 5.9 or 9+.
EBGB's is 5.10c for reference.
I apologize for getting into nitpicking over grades, but I get a bit nuts about inflation.
Go climb in the Needles. At the time of their FAs Igor Unchained was an honest 5.8 and Howling 5.9.... Today I get folks arguing that Igor is sustained .10a!
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Aug 30, 2010 - 09:22pm PT
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I always thought Bird on a Wire and Exorcist were standard 10a's.
I'm sure it's nowhere near as hard as some of the Valley wide named upthread, but I thought the 10a ow pitch on the Rostrum was about the hardest 10a I've thrashed around on toprope on...
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Aug 30, 2010 - 09:24pm PT
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Igor Unchained was an honest 5.8
crap, guess I'm out for that one.
heheh
no vote for me, though my thought is that 5.9 fluctuates more than 5.10a since 5.9 doesn't have a subdivision of letters. I.e. it is in it's definition as "10a" that it shouldn't vary much by comparing it to the range covered by 5.9- thru 5.9+.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Aug 30, 2010 - 10:00pm PT
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The hardest 5.10a that you do is not 5.10a, it's harder. Climbs are immutable and unchangeable works of nature. Ratings are climbers attempts (often ego driven and misguided) to quantify. Climbs never change, ratings often do.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Aug 30, 2010 - 10:15pm PT
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It would appear that a lot of climbers get a charge out of there home area being really badass and having really HARD ratings. Oh well, you have to get your feelings of self worth somewhere.
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bjj
climber
beyond the sun
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Aug 30, 2010 - 10:16pm PT
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"What's Solid Gold up towards the top on the 2'nd? I think it was a mantle
move?"
I've climbed solid gold at least 5 times. It always seemed 10a to me, but I learned to climb on routes exactly like it, and always loved technical granite edging. Mmmmmm tasty.
I've seen several strong sport climbers destroy their tips and have a hell of a hard time on it. One (a visiting Red Rocks sporto) even proclaiming it as "the worst route in the world".
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Aug 30, 2010 - 10:41pm PT
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Tulgey Wood at Devil's Tower is 10a. Although the first two pitches are rated 10a and seem about right the third pitch 5.9, 160ft of fists would certainly be the hardest 5.10 I have ever done if it were rated 5.10. I don't ever usually try old school 10a's in the Needles they're all hard and scary too.
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