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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Aug 31, 2010 - 04:59pm PT
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Ah, this inherent need for climbers to identify climbs by the subjective numbers attached to them is on fine display.
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F10
Trad climber
e350 / Bishop
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Aug 31, 2010 - 06:59pm PT
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"The Comic Book in Joshua Tree has a bizarre and awkward start to the second pitch which the old guide calls 10a."
Actually my 76 guide calls it F9, 5.9
Didn't seem to slow me down at all, but I was young and dumb back then....
Even has Exorcist listed as F9
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the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
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Aug 31, 2010 - 07:21pm PT
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every .10a in tuolumne..
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Aug 31, 2010 - 07:52pm PT
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Bes'1st, I hope your just trolling, because:
There is no way that John Bachar ever, ever uprated Illusion Dweller. Fat chance of that.
Sorry Dude but...
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coondogger
Trad climber
NH
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Aug 31, 2010 - 08:15pm PT
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Definitely Duet Direct on Cannon. Original grade of 5.9 by Michael Hartrich.
Sustained and burly. Harder than many valley 10+/11a.
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Aug 31, 2010 - 08:20pm PT
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Every Old School 10a in Tuolumne.
Unfortunately (or maybe not) plenty of new 10a's are more closely bolted, and not very bold by comparison to even old school 9's
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Aug 31, 2010 - 08:23pm PT
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Plenty of Tuolumne 5.11s, 12s, 13s are not very bold compared to old school 5.9....or maybe "not bold at all" would be a better way to put it...
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christophotopolis
Trad climber
sierras
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Sep 15, 2010 - 11:13pm PT
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end game on rockafellow dome - chochise stronghold, az
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Matt
Trad climber
primordial soup
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Sep 16, 2010 - 03:35am PT
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wrt any discussion of "wide climbs" being somehow on a different scale (wtf?)
what if i said that about slabs?
or overhangs?
or stems?
or laybacks?
or run-outs?
or finger cracks?
traverses?
knobs?
slopers?
dykes?
mormon chicks?
everyone has challenges.
the more honest approach for an individual is to recognize that the challenges are within the individual and not within whatever is perceived as "the challenge"...
wide climbs are only "different" if you have no interest in becoming a well rounded climber. if that's the case, so be it, i am not passing any judgement one way or the other, but please recognize that it's YOU that is CHOOSING not to be skilled at that one type of climbing.
yosemite will expose your weaknesses, that's what makes it special.
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M. Volland
Trad climber
Grand Canyon
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Feb 20, 2011 - 01:26am PT
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Ed
For me its Free Press. I still have not been able to press that one out. Galen Rowell's routes have always impressed me. The guy was super strong!
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hoipolloi
climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
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Feb 20, 2011 - 02:01am PT
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Deep Throat, Vedauwoo
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Prezwoodz
climber
Anchorage
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Feb 20, 2011 - 03:33am PT
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Exorcist in J-tree ....maybe its because I never climb there but I had a really hard time....
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Kalimon
Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
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Feb 20, 2011 - 11:12am PT
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"Sleight of Hand" on the Sorcerer, Needles, CA. Was rated 10a when I led it in one long pitch . . . hard for that grade.
I'm glad some other folks included "Doggie Do" in the Valley, always thought that was hard for 10a.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Feb 20, 2011 - 11:52am PT
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Take the move rated 10b now on the Wilson Overhang away, and Steck Salathe is still way harder than most 10a's anywhere.
Take the move rated 10b off the original DNB ratings and now you have such sick slab it wasn't funny, only to be followed by burliness!
Peace
Karl
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Feb 20, 2011 - 12:52pm PT
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Watch Crystal- Durango
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adam d
climber
The Bears, CA
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Feb 20, 2011 - 01:30pm PT
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Yup Jebus...Anti-Jello is REALLY good!
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Anastasia
climber
hanging from a crimp and crying for my mama.
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Feb 20, 2011 - 02:09pm PT
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Grrr...
Fiddler on the Roof.
I sure as heck heard the Fiddler.
AFS
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Feb 20, 2011 - 03:05pm PT
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Both of mine were considered 5.9 when I did them, both OW
1. OW pitch on Grand Giraffe
2. Umph Slot on the Dome
I guess Umph Slot doesn't technically count since I grabbed the rope for a rest.
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PellucidWombat
Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
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Apr 23, 2012 - 11:48pm PT
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Secret Storm at Camp 4 Wall this past Saturday.
The heat & direct sunlight did not help with the two offwidth cruxes. Not only did I feel like I was about to puke, but I was seeing stars and starting to black out as I quickly shimmied inside the shady chimney past the second crux. I spent a while relaxing in that cool chimney before I continued up to the anchors.
Fun route, though. I'll be back in the winter for another round for sure!
In some ways Doggie Do seemed harder, but the crux on that one is short & gear doesn't get in your way. Secret Storm's cruxes were longer and in both cases I had to climb past gear at the cruxes that I was too nervous to take out!
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Apr 23, 2012 - 11:57pm PT
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Saucer Full of Secrets at Dome Rock in the Needles
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