Climbing Snake Dike? Bring Roger Brown some water...

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Messages 21 - 37 of total 37 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Jul 18, 2010 - 08:04pm PT
Roger, if you get the trots, start heading down. I've drank unfiltered water from mid sierra elevations and it can be contaminated. But heck, you're so damn bad ass, the bugs will run from ya! Thanks a mil!


Scuffy, when u wanna go up? I'll email you.
altieboo

Boulder climber
Livermore, Ca
Aug 4, 2010 - 11:38pm PT
A buddy and I are headed up to climb the dike Saturday. Anything of need that we can bring by?
Flanders!

Trad climber
June Lake, CA
Aug 5, 2010 - 02:32am PT
Hi Roger,
Glad to see that you still are hanging
In there up at the S. Face and that support
For your efforts are growing. The climbers
in the Valley owe you an Obama size debt
of gratitude for your work. Thanks Roger !

Doug
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Aug 5, 2010 - 10:20am PT
Major effort, Roger! Thanks.

In the absence of any buddy system, does Roger at least have a walkie talkie while he works alone up there?
altieboo

Boulder climber
Livermore, Ca
Aug 5, 2010 - 01:19pm PT
Bumb for people making climbs safer for the rest of us.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Aug 5, 2010 - 02:57pm PT
What to bring: how about a 2-liter bottle full of water? (Fill at river just before you go off the main Half Dome hiking trail) Drop off at Roger's yellow tent, which is at the base of the rock, below the top of Autobahn.

Roger has a cell phone up there; good reception.
Larry

Trad climber
Bisbee
Aug 5, 2010 - 06:32pm PT
I'd haul some water if I was in Yosemite. Could have used support like that on Crest Jewel. At least there's a spring a mile away from the summit of North Dome.

I remember belaying off a single 1/4" SMC hangered bolt below the crux of the Salathe route (backed up by a #1 Stopper). Not at all sure it it was original though!
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Aug 5, 2010 - 06:34pm PT
Roger may need help carrying stuff out, too. Garbage, stuff he's found on and at the base of the cliff, empty bottles, and so on.
TomCochrane

Trad climber
Boulder Creek CA
Aug 5, 2010 - 08:02pm PT
We're thinking of going up there this weekend. Is Roger up there?
Joe

Social climber
Santa Cruz
Aug 5, 2010 - 08:27pm PT
thank you guys.
Roger Brown

climber
Oceano, California
Aug 5, 2010 - 10:31pm PT
Wow,
I just got home, and I'm on the first page of the forum :-) Autobahn and The Fast Lane are completed and the fixed ropes removed. Dreamscape was finished yesterday and thats where the fixed ropes are now. There is also now a fixed rope running from our high point above Autobahn to the east end of the big slab at the top of Snakedike. That was the first real climbing I've done in years. Plenty of places to place gear so it was pretty safe. This fixed rope will make moving the main fixed ropes over to Snake Dance and Eye in the Sky a bit easier. I understand the bolts on those two routes are really bad and though I am pretty anxious to get on them I thought it would be wise to take a few days off. I've been drinking 2 gallons a day now, but there are still dehydration issues if a person dosen't take enough time off. I hate to admit it but I'm just getting older and not as tough as I once was :-) I found 3 routes up there that are not in the guide books. I will post more on them when I get all my notes together this winter sometime. To me, the south side of Half Dome is a really special place and I feel honored that I'm the guy that gets to do the bolt replacement up there. I am getting the water from the river now as the water that comes out of lost lake is no longer flowing. I am picking up one of those gravity flow water filters while I'm home so if anyone was to drop any water off at my camp, don't worry about filtering it. If by chance something happens and you need water, the water in the bottles with slings is clean. The bottles without slings has not been filtered.
Roger
Seamstress

Trad climber
Yacolt, WA
Aug 6, 2010 - 01:07am PT
Roger - The next time I visit, I will leave you a token of my appreciation. I worship trail builders, climber advocates, bolt replacers, anyone who gives back. Clipping the bolts are adventure enough for me, and I am glad to know that they are newer.
scuffy b

climber
Eastern Salinia
Aug 6, 2010 - 11:52am PT
Munge, no problem, I'll go when you can lead 5.11D with serious
reputation for scariness.
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Aug 11, 2010 - 07:05pm PT
"I replaced the bolt protecting that 11+ double roof thing yesterday. I struggled over it a couple times now with ascenders on my fixed rope and it beat me up both times. I saw just 1 hold, you can match hands, but still only 1 hold. Its a mantle. It looks really hard and the old bolt looked a bit used."

I always wondered, and Roger's description doesn't clarify it, would you have to rap if you couldn't pull the .11+? I guess there's only one way to find out ;-)

Rope Gun!!

Scruffy, Munge, let's go!
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Aug 15, 2010 - 03:31pm PT
oh, just saw this. nice, we have a quorum of three. Now who's the knucklehead that will get on the sharp end?

/munge looks at his foot, and stirs the dirt with his big toe.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
merced, california
May 17, 2012 - 12:13am PT
I am partial to this section of Half Come and would like to know the whatabouts of Roger Brown, the howzeedoons, and Carol, of course. It was almost two years since the topic was posted to. On.

And would anyone think it too early to plan a 50-yr. mass-cal on Snake Dike?

And just for curiosity, are the bolts all shipshape? Yes/no? Both questions.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
May 17, 2012 - 01:16am PT
Roger was back replacing bolts last summer (2011).
You can read some about it here:
Oreo Cliff, Sunnyside Bench, Midnight Rambler (also Duck and Cover):
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1492905&tn=40

Crazy:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1552021&msg=1559002#msg1559002

The Shining (also upper anchors on The Cobra):
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1567926&msg=1586579#msg1586579

He'll probably be back soon for this summer.

Yes, all the bolts on Snake Dike are good.
You can read about all the routes that have been fixed up on the ASCA website:
http://www.safeclimbing.org/areas/california/yosemitefree.htm
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