Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
| Messages 1 - 10 of total 10 in this topic |
Roger Brown
climber
Oceano, California
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 30, 2011 - 12:35pm PT
|
Has the Shining (Scott Burke and Chris Hash 1988) seen a second ascent? Does anyone know the condition, size and type of bolts used. Scott was using Taper Bolts a lot during this time period. Taper Bolts can be easily damaged if over tightened so they get replaced when we run across them. That said, the Taper Bolts placed by Scott are some of the best I have found. So good I would accuse him of using a Torque Wrench:-) Anyone have contact information for Scott or Chris? We plan to be up in that area soon replacing bolts on the routes requested by Forum users earlier in the season.
Thanks,
Roger
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Jul 30, 2011 - 01:43pm PT
|
Scott has been off the screen for a while. I don't know Chris.
I don't think that The Shining ever saw a repeat...
|
|
Roger Brown
climber
Oceano, California
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 31, 2011 - 11:31am PT
|
I guess we will just have to rap in from the top and have a look.
|
|
mark miller
Social climber
Reno
|
|
|
Jul 31, 2011 - 04:19pm PT
|
MR. Brown as usual,(every season). Thank you for all your hard and dedicated work, replacing all the old stuff with "Solid" fresh stuff. I Salute you Sir.
|
|
Roger Brown
climber
Oceano, California
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 9, 2011 - 07:07pm PT
|
Clint and I checked it out this weekend. The bolts are 1/4" button heads. We were suprised to find that the rappel route could use some work as well. While most of the stations had 3/8 bolts there was still a button head at some stations and many of the hangers were spinners. Just changing out some of the hardware for double ring hangers and tightening things up will make the stations a little more user friendly. Yea, that was us up there Saturday night rapping by headlamp:-)
|
|
k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
|
|
|
Aug 10, 2011 - 01:40am PT
|
I don't think Friday the 13th has [had a 2nd] either.
For some reason this doesn't surprise me.
But I know that GbG has seen some action since the new bolts went in. Now there's one I'd like to have fun on...following ;-)
|
|
Dynoguy
climber
|
|
|
Aug 18, 2011 - 11:52am PT
|
Thanks Roger for all the hammer swings
See ya in North Pines
Matt
|
|
KabalaArch
Trad climber
Starlite, California
|
|
|
Aug 19, 2011 - 06:18pm PT
|
Seems like Midlife Crisis is the best line in the vicinity of Friday the 13th (I think they may share some stances), and greasybuttgroove.
Friday wanders all over the damn place, like many Arches slabs; Midlife features slab stone which is very consistently compact and reminiscent of Stately Pleasure Dome. I got to enjoy it from the comfort of a TR, and learned an interesting little trick to get back into the slab zone:
Took a slider at the 1st bolt for trying to edge it. When I came up on the rope (about a foot off the ground), I recalled that just the tiniest bit of tension, and you could practically walk up the thing no hands. So I just ignored the edges, and "foonted" my way along.
I almost joined the "100 foot Club" first attempt at GbG. A beginner, I was assigned the 2nd lead. Ignored the 1st stance on the traverse over to Arches Terrace, and proceeded directwise up to the stance beneath the business pitches. On my 150 foot rope, well, naturally I ran out of it about 12 feet below the belay. Tom tied in the 2nd rope, and I hoped mightily it would see me to the stance before the knot came up on the 1st piece off of the 1st belay below. He flicked the rope some to clear it from an obstruction, and, in the middle of the slab, I almost lost my balance.
I see a bolt has been added between the traverse midway station, and the next belay station on GbG.
|
|
Roger Brown
climber
Oceano, California
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 21, 2011 - 01:18pm PT
|
The bolt replacement of The Shining was completed this week. Only the top couple pitches were Button-Heads, most of the rest of the route was Taper-Bolts per Scott's "bolt of choice" during that time period. The anchors for the last two pitches of The Cobra were also replaced. Sorry to say the one bolt anchor at the top of the sixth pitch was never found so nothing was done there. I will remove that last fixed rope hanging down across the fifteenth pitch slab on the Royal Arches when I feel like hiking up the Gully again:-) Feel free to use it to back up the crossing, just toss it back to the center when you are done so I can pull it from the top. It is 10.5, only two years old, and is anchored directly to the Rap Tree on the Rim, 150' above.
|
|
the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
|
|
|
Aug 21, 2011 - 03:31pm PT
|
Clint and Roger,
maybe you guys should do the fix up job on "A Farewell to Kings" on Fairview (also one of my favorite RUSH albums).
Scott Burke and I did this one in 1986.
better protected than BDTH- but also harder climbing.
good story behind this FA..
|
|
| Messages 1 - 10 of total 10 in this topic |
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!