Inside chimney all the way up Reed's Pinnacle?


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Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 24, 2010 - 10:34pm PT
In another thread, Roger said this:

Hey Kevin,

Regarding your comment on tunneling behind the Reed's 2nd pitch, there is no room for a headlamp. In any case you can see the faint outlines of the chockstones from below on the reflected light coming in from the sides. I think I could turn my head in all sections. I don't think you would want to trail a rope.

I've heard about this before, and now I'm more curious. Is this the starting point for the full-on spelunking version of the 2nd pitch?

You just head on up into the blackness? If so, Crikey! I've got a new affliction.
So should I lube up in olive oil, drop the harness, and tie the lead rope to my ankle or what?

Edit: Roger, what was your chest measurement in those days?

2nd Edit: Is it all squeeze, or does it widen up to where you can fall out if you exhale?

Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 24, 2010 - 10:41pm PT
Well, you know I'll give it a shot next time I'm in the vicinity. Sweet lord help us.

Calling le_bruce, we've got a less committing mission on the radar. You bring the Crisco. The #10 can should be enough.
mark miller

Social climber
Jun 24, 2010 - 10:51pm PT
Looks like Guano direct, but you won't have any crowds.

Social climber
Davis, CA
Jun 24, 2010 - 10:58pm PT
that doesn't look good for you boys. You need to get a pint sized Crack Weasel to deploy in there.
tom woods

Gym climber
Bishop, CA
Jun 24, 2010 - 11:02pm PT
Methinks this is a poor idea. Can you get out at the top?

Trad climber
Bay Area
Jun 24, 2010 - 11:08pm PT
you ARE a nutjob!
Don't get into anything you can't slither back out of.

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Jun 24, 2010 - 11:08pm PT
It would be wiser to do the regular thing outside, then when you get to the top of the chimney, see what it looks like, if you can actually get out at the top, maybe explore it going down. That way if you reach a point where it's too small, just come back up.
Mighty Hiker

Vancouver, B.C.
Jun 24, 2010 - 11:17pm PT
The only person I know of who's done it was a small Englishman.

To be exact, the only one who's done it and reported back.

Trad climber
Bay Area
Jun 24, 2010 - 11:23pm PT
That way if you reach a point where it's too small, just come back up.
Bad advice. Slithering down into a narrows can get you REALLY stuck because you've got to fight gravity and find purchase to get out.
Been there
Done that (different tunnel at Reed's)
It took two really good guys to get me out again.

Social climber
Jun 24, 2010 - 11:33pm PT
"hey officer... leave my friend alone... He's legally drunk!"

That pitch is a bitch... But I made it through the tunnel... Barely.

For a moment I started to panic... thought I (129 pounder) was gonna get stuck...


Trad climber
Jun 24, 2010 - 11:43pm PT
You look way too big for that hole.


Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Jun 24, 2010 - 11:45pm PT
hey Scott , are you bigger than le_bruce? So if he squeeze it does not mean that you'll pass this place?
The good thing that narrowest part should be near Reed's direct hole [as I remember from climbing
reeds left and and looking in this deep chimney] and if you pass via begining part a you should be OK afterall.

Oakland: what's not to love?
Jun 25, 2010 - 01:00am PT

Pass, friendo - that idea scares me. Next time I'm at Reed's I'm doing Independent Route.

What about Irene? She's smaller than you, she's Italian, she's a scientist: send her up it.
Mighty Hiker

Vancouver, B.C.
Jun 25, 2010 - 01:44am PT
Did you guys know that the exits from a big stadium are known as vomitoriums? Somehow this thread brought them to mind.
Roger Breedlove

Cleveland Heights, Ohio
Jun 25, 2010 - 02:00am PT
Yes, Nutjob, that is the opening into which you can climb, exiting in the cross through chimney below the last pitch. I would guess that my chest size was 42 inches when I did it. However, I am wide from a front view, and at the time, not very thick. At the time I was 6'3" and weighed about 175. (I am now 7' tall and correspondingly heavier.)

It did not seem to be so narrow, but it was a long time ago. I do think that a head lamp is a good idea. It is a long way to the top. Bragging rights are limited.

Anders: I am not English. I'm 'Merican.

Easier than the pitch on the outside. No pump.

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Jun 25, 2010 - 02:18am PT
so nutty!

check it out. just be thoughtful about it.

I wonder if Werner can fit back there? j/k ;)

Jun 25, 2010 - 02:30am PT
Dave Schultz told me some years ago that he would hang out inside and f*ck with climbers leading the 2nd pitch; scaring the sh*t out of them.
scuffy b

Eastern Salinia
Jun 25, 2010 - 11:30am PT
Yes, Nutjob,

You can start from there or the Left side.
You certainly have alarmed the populace on this one.
It's no big deal, it's a chimney.
You won't have any trouble. If it gets too tight, you
come back down and look around.
Can't get stuck unless you are going downward, in a chimney.
tom woods

Gym climber
Bishop, CA
Jun 25, 2010 - 12:57pm PT
Riley- I'm with you. I get sort of panicky thinking about this one.

I've almost done the upper pitch cross through chimney. I got way in there to where you have to go down and I panicked. I'm terrible at tight stuff. I can do it if I psych up and go real slow, but I hate it.

On the cross through second pitch I freaked out. I don't even really remember it. I remember taking ten minutes to get in there, but my partner says that I was out of it and back to the belay in thirty seconds.

So that's where you come out eh?

Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 25, 2010 - 01:25pm PT
OK, I've done the right-to-left tunnel-through on Reed's Regular years ago... not too bad but I did get my leg stuck by trying straight across and horizontal swimming motions, instead of moving up and down for path of least resistance.

Understood le_bruce. I don't think Irene wants any piece of that either.
But I do have some takers... we'll make sure the belayer has a cell phone!

Soonest it would happen is about 3 weeks from now :)
I've got a surfing "rash guard" shirt that would be perfect, and some REI long underwear.
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