Inside chimney all the way up Reed's Pinnacle?


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Messages 21 - 40 of total 51 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Mighty Hiker

Vancouver, B.C.
Jun 24, 2010 - 10:44pm PT
Did you guys know that the exits from a big stadium are known as vomitoriums? Somehow this thread brought them to mind.
Roger Breedlove

Cleveland Heights, Ohio
Jun 24, 2010 - 11:00pm PT
Yes, Nutjob, that is the opening into which you can climb, exiting in the cross through chimney below the last pitch. I would guess that my chest size was 42 inches when I did it. However, I am wide from a front view, and at the time, not very thick. At the time I was 6'3" and weighed about 175. (I am now 7' tall and correspondingly heavier.)

It did not seem to be so narrow, but it was a long time ago. I do think that a head lamp is a good idea. It is a long way to the top. Bragging rights are limited.

Anders: I am not English. I'm 'Merican.

Easier than the pitch on the outside. No pump.

Social climber
Jun 24, 2010 - 11:15pm PT

Dammit man yer 2' taller then me. Remindme never to slow dance with you


Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Jun 24, 2010 - 11:18pm PT
so nutty!

check it out. just be thoughtful about it.

I wonder if Werner can fit back there? j/k ;)

Jun 24, 2010 - 11:30pm PT
Dave Schultz told me some years ago that he would hang out inside and f*ck with climbers leading the 2nd pitch; scaring the sh*t out of them.
scuffy b

Eastern Salinia
Jun 25, 2010 - 08:30am PT
Yes, Nutjob,

You can start from there or the Left side.
You certainly have alarmed the populace on this one.
It's no big deal, it's a chimney.
You won't have any trouble. If it gets too tight, you
come back down and look around.
Can't get stuck unless you are going downward, in a chimney.
tom woods

Gym climber
Bishop, CA
Jun 25, 2010 - 09:57am PT
Riley- I'm with you. I get sort of panicky thinking about this one.

I've almost done the upper pitch cross through chimney. I got way in there to where you have to go down and I panicked. I'm terrible at tight stuff. I can do it if I psych up and go real slow, but I hate it.

On the cross through second pitch I freaked out. I don't even really remember it. I remember taking ten minutes to get in there, but my partner says that I was out of it and back to the belay in thirty seconds.

So that's where you come out eh?

Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 25, 2010 - 10:25am PT
OK, I've done the right-to-left tunnel-through on Reed's Regular years ago... not too bad but I did get my leg stuck by trying straight across and horizontal swimming motions, instead of moving up and down for path of least resistance.

Understood le_bruce. I don't think Irene wants any piece of that either.
But I do have some takers... we'll make sure the belayer has a cell phone!

Soonest it would happen is about 3 weeks from now :)
I've got a surfing "rash guard" shirt that would be perfect, and some REI long underwear.
tom woods

Gym climber
Bishop, CA
Jun 25, 2010 - 11:11am PT
What's a cell phone gonna do? You think rescuers have some magic plan to bail you out if you get stuck?

They don't. They'll have to make it up on the spot, or call cave rescuers in from tenessee or somewhere.

I ain't saying don't do it, others have. I'm saying the best strategy is to take care of yourself because the cavalry won't be there if something goes wrong.

Hate to be a killjoy. It sounds like the cell phone remark was made in jest. I'm just saying, like with many climbing/backcountry situations do not count on being rescued.
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Jun 25, 2010 - 11:28am PT
I gotta get a crack weasel.
the Fet

Jun 25, 2010 - 11:38am PT
Rescuers would just feed a water tube and feeding tube into the depths and let you live out your days there.

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Jun 25, 2010 - 11:40am PT
Is it filthy dirty in there? I'm not sure how excited I would be for that.
Mighty Hiker

Vancouver, B.C.
Jun 25, 2010 - 11:41am PT
There should be enough water running through there to keep it reasonably clean, although by autumn it might get a little smelly. Quite a lot of water runs down from above onto the ledge at the end of the second pitch, and a lot of it must essentially run through the ledge into the cracks and chimneys behind the wall.
scuffy b

Eastern Salinia
Jun 25, 2010 - 01:10pm PT
It is not filthy dirty in there.
When water is flowing, it is concentrated in a pretty small swath.
That gets slimy, but when it's dry, no problem.

Social climber
Jun 26, 2010 - 06:06am PT
From Pete Livesey's I feel Rock

"...........Reed Pinnacle Direct..............The first pitch is a wicked curved slash like a saber scar, but its just my size. 40 ft up, 20 feet to go, and I put a chock in. Hand-Jam size, number 9, pick it out on a natty , white tape and throw it in.
I threw it in: it went right in, two feet in, krab and all, out of reach. I was broddling around with my longest wire, and was just pulling the tape out, when I saw one of those sights you just don't want to believe or accept. In the crack was a hand, yes a hand. It still had chalk on, and grubby fingernails.
Not only was the sight of the hand completely unacceptable to me, but it also was dragging the nut away, my nut into the depths of the mountain.
I instinctively let go of the tape, and I remember thinking that dozens of climbers have probably lost their hands that way, best to let it have the nut and clear off. At the top of the pitch I grabbed the tree, tied on and checked my feet to see if they were still there- you never know with hands in cracks what they're after.
Behind the tree was a perfect, dark chimney parallel to the cliff face. creeping out of the base at ground level was a giggling Yank with my nut..."

So the chimney is pitch one. the good thing is if you get stuck you could be like the troll in The three billys goats gruff and not let anyone pass unless they gave you a beer or a sandwich

Rick A

Boulder, Colorado
Jun 26, 2010 - 09:37am PT
Hobo-Thanks for posting that Livesey passage, great stuff.

Yeah, I remember the cross through chimney to the left side, may have been with Richard and Largo. Pretty secure if memory serves, but I also remember forcibly suppressing the fear that you might somehow lose traction and slide into that horrible abyss.

Going to think about something else, now.
Roger Breedlove

Cleveland Heights, Ohio
Jun 26, 2010 - 11:25am PT
It is not wet or dirty. It is dark and sometimes tight. You have to move around to pass chockstones (trailing rope might not work). It was a grand kid's adventure with, in my case, the complete surprise that you can exit in the cross-through abyss Rick mentions. My partners did a double take when I walked up beside them at the top of the 2nd pitch.

Soda Springs, CA
Jun 26, 2010 - 12:35pm PT
I have gone up that claustrophobic slot a couple of times, though never found the exit. Both times I made an effort but way up there it gets really tight and I lost my nerve.

Once I went up while someone was struggling mightily with leading the second pitch. Always the supportive guide/coach, I started softly talking encouragement, "hang in there, your almost there, try to relax"

"Whats that!" the guy yelled down to his partner,

"No, its me here inside the crack" he freaked out, but I calmed him down, then a bit higher he had to hang, I probably didn't help him.

I fantasized about sometime reaching a hand out to someone right before they fell off, thought they would probably really freak out and jump!

Good times...

Roger Breedlove

Cleveland Heights, Ohio
Jun 26, 2010 - 01:48pm PT
Peter, you were too close to the crack. The way up is to start moving towards the left side. I was a long way from the 2nd pitch crack: move away from the light; move towards the dark; embrace the squeeze; arise from the abyss.

Or not.

Trad climber
Jun 26, 2010 - 01:59pm PT
Oh man!

Once I went up while someone was struggling mightily with leading the second pitch. Always the supportive guide/coach, I started softly talking encouragement, "hang in there, your almost there, try to relax"

I'd f*#king sh#t myself.

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