Livesey's story is a good one.
But there's not much adventure potential on the first pitch.
I don't think you can chimney behind the jamcrack for much of its length,
only the upper part.
But, I certainly will have to go back to verify.
I was recently in the Valley.
I went down and did Reed's Direct with a couple friends and I had told these (very young and new to the Valley climbers) that I was not entirely sure of this but that I had heard that you could chimney behind the main/5.9 pitch of Reed's.
Ok another story in the back of my mind (for all these years)...
I could'a sworn that Base told me (something to this effect)...
That he was in the Valley (maybe his first time there) and that he headed down to Reed's to do the Direct.
As the story goes (in my feeble memory) he said he was leading up and unexplicable all these bomber nut placements he made were popping out. He was getting a little freaked as half the gear was popped out leaving large runs between, but worse...
"Why were these bomber placements popping out?"
I recall him saying that he was almost to the rest ledge before the short off width at the top when all of a sudden there was a big puff of chalk that came from inside the crack...
and then giggling, turning to laughter.
Any of that story sound familiar to you Sir?
Aloha and Godspeed.
Mark's response in email:
I think the story about Base is mostly true. I think it was Eric Barrett who was pushing the nuts out. He may have done one or two but certainly not all or most of them.
I'm nursing a little shoulder wound that delayed my plans... since my grand proclamation I actually went to Reed's twice:
I made my first try on the final pitch of Reed's Direct (got it with no falls, but scary part is in the middle with no pro looking down the chasm, not up top where there is pro)
Had a little adventure on the first 3 pitches of Flatus. Crikey that's a classic. All wide and chimney, no face hand or finger filler. First pitch tweaked my shoulder, I kept going anyways. Pitch 3 is a squeeze chimney with zero pro if you follow the direct path. Or you can go waaay inside to get a piece of pro (I threw a biner on a sling over a chockstone that I couldn't squeeze up to reach) that might stop you from hitting bottom, but it requires tighter squeezing and ~ 10-15 feet of horizontal to surmount the chockstone that guards the end of the pitch. Cool pitch, not very long, but don't fall.
As soon as I am able, I'm on it. With camera and a stick of butter just in case.
"Pitch 3 is a squeeze chimney with zero pro if you follow the direct path. Or you can go waaay inside to get a piece of pro (I threw a biner on a sling over a chockstone that I couldn't squeeze up to reach) that might stop you from hitting bottom, but it requires tighter squeezing and ~ 10-15 feet of horizontal to surmount the chockstone that guards the end of the pitch. Cool pitch, not very long, but don't fall."
Yup, ripped outta that one.....Plinko comes to mind.
Good flat landing as I remember.
The chockstone takes a .75, after you finally reach it.
Pasted from friends of yosar . . . 3-28-10 Ė Climber Stuck in Cave-Reedís Pinnacle
On Sunday, March 28, 2010 at approximately 5:00 p.m. Yosemite Dispatch received a report that a climber was stuck in the crawl through on Reedís Pinnacle and was asking for assistance. Two NPS Rangers prepared to climb to the top of Reedís Direct to access the stuck climber from the prominent ledge system. Communication with the partner of the stuck climber was established at the base of the west end of the pinnacle and with the assistance from another climbing party was able to free himself from the crawl through and all parties rappelled to the base at 6:15 p.m.