Inside chimney all the way up Reed's Pinnacle?

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nutjob

Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 24, 2010 - 10:34pm PT
In another thread, Roger said this:

Hey Kevin,

Regarding your comment on tunneling behind the Reed's 2nd pitch, there is no room for a headlamp. In any case you can see the faint outlines of the chockstones from below on the reflected light coming in from the sides. I think I could turn my head in all sections. I don't think you would want to trail a rope.

I've heard about this before, and now I'm more curious. Is this the starting point for the full-on spelunking version of the 2nd pitch?



You just head on up into the blackness? If so, Crikey! I've got a new affliction.
So should I lube up in olive oil, drop the harness, and tie the lead rope to my ankle or what?

Edit: Roger, what was your chest measurement in those days?

2nd Edit: Is it all squeeze, or does it widen up to where you can fall out if you exhale?
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Jun 24, 2010 - 10:40pm PT
That's the start of the "route" .

Supposedly.


Only one way to find out for sure!
nutjob

Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 24, 2010 - 10:41pm PT
Well, you know I'll give it a shot next time I'm in the vicinity. Sweet lord help us.

Calling le_bruce, we've got a less committing mission on the radar. You bring the Crisco. The #10 can should be enough.
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Jun 24, 2010 - 10:42pm PT
TR please.

Don't forget the flash.

mark miller

Social climber
Reno
Jun 24, 2010 - 10:51pm PT
Looks like Guano direct, but you won't have any crowds.
caughtinside

Social climber
Davis, CA
Jun 24, 2010 - 10:58pm PT
that doesn't look good for you boys. You need to get a pint sized Crack Weasel to deploy in there.
tom woods

Gym climber
Bishop, CA
Jun 24, 2010 - 11:02pm PT
Methinks this is a poor idea. Can you get out at the top?
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Jun 24, 2010 - 11:08pm PT
Didya ever chimney through behind Reed's Pinnacle to the Left side last pitch?

Remember that black hole below your feet that you didn't want to fall into?

HighTraverse

Trad climber
Bay Area
Jun 24, 2010 - 11:08pm PT
you ARE a nutjob!
Don't get into anything you can't slither back out of.
aspendougy

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Jun 24, 2010 - 11:08pm PT
It would be wiser to do the regular thing outside, then when you get to the top of the chimney, see what it looks like, if you can actually get out at the top, maybe explore it going down. That way if you reach a point where it's too small, just come back up.
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Jun 24, 2010 - 11:14pm PT
Just don't make a move you can't reverse.

And don't wear bulky clothing.

A one piece lycra suit would be ideal.

Maybe some kneepads.

Maybe not.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Jun 24, 2010 - 11:17pm PT
The only person I know of who's done it was a small Englishman.

To be exact, the only one who's done it and reported back.
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Jun 24, 2010 - 11:19pm PT
A wager is possibly in order.
HighTraverse

Trad climber
Bay Area
Jun 24, 2010 - 11:23pm PT
That way if you reach a point where it's too small, just come back up.
Nope
Bad advice. Slithering down into a narrows can get you REALLY stuck because you've got to fight gravity and find purchase to get out.
Been there
Done that (different tunnel at Reed's)
It took two really good guys to get me out again.
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Jun 24, 2010 - 11:31pm PT
^ ^
That makes sense
Jingy

Social climber
Nowhere
Jun 24, 2010 - 11:33pm PT
"hey officer... leave my friend alone... He's legally drunk!"




That pitch is a bitch... But I made it through the tunnel... Barely.

For a moment I started to panic... thought I (129 pounder) was gonna get stuck...



Prod

Trad climber
Jun 24, 2010 - 11:43pm PT
You look way too big for that hole.

Prod.
Alexey

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Jun 24, 2010 - 11:45pm PT
hey Scott , are you bigger than le_bruce? So if he squeeze it does not mean that you'll pass this place?
The good thing that narrowest part should be near Reed's direct hole [as I remember from climbing
reeds left and and looking in this deep chimney] and if you pass via begining part a you should be OK afterall.
le_bruce

climber
Oakland: what's not to love?
Jun 25, 2010 - 01:00am PT

Pass, friendo - that idea scares me. Next time I'm at Reed's I'm doing Independent Route.

What about Irene? She's smaller than you, she's Italian, she's a scientist: send her up it.
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Jun 25, 2010 - 01:41am PT
This thread is heinous. The 'getting stuck' musings are making me wanna double my medications.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Jun 25, 2010 - 01:44am PT
Did you guys know that the exits from a big stadium are known as vomitoriums? Somehow this thread brought them to mind.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vomitorium
Roger Breedlove

climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
Jun 25, 2010 - 02:00am PT
Yes, Nutjob, that is the opening into which you can climb, exiting in the cross through chimney below the last pitch. I would guess that my chest size was 42 inches when I did it. However, I am wide from a front view, and at the time, not very thick. At the time I was 6'3" and weighed about 175. (I am now 7' tall and correspondingly heavier.)

It did not seem to be so narrow, but it was a long time ago. I do think that a head lamp is a good idea. It is a long way to the top. Bragging rights are limited.

Anders: I am not English. I'm 'Merican.

Easier than the pitch on the outside. No pump.
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Jun 25, 2010 - 02:15am PT
SEVEN FEET TALL ????? ROGER !!!! HOW IS THE AIR UP THERE !?!??!



Dammit man yer 2' taller then me. Remindme never to slow dance with you

hahahahahahahahaaaaaaaaaa
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Jun 25, 2010 - 02:18am PT
so nutty!

check it out. just be thoughtful about it.

I wonder if Werner can fit back there? j/k ;)
ec

climber
ca
Jun 25, 2010 - 02:30am PT
Dave Schultz told me some years ago that he would hang out inside and f*ck with climbers leading the 2nd pitch; scaring the sh*t out of them.
 ec
scuffy b

climber
Eastern Salinia
Jun 25, 2010 - 11:30am PT
Yes, Nutjob,

You can start from there or the Left side.
You certainly have alarmed the populace on this one.
It's no big deal, it's a chimney.
You won't have any trouble. If it gets too tight, you
come back down and look around.
Can't get stuck unless you are going downward, in a chimney.
tom woods

Gym climber
Bishop, CA
Jun 25, 2010 - 12:57pm PT
Riley- I'm with you. I get sort of panicky thinking about this one.

I've almost done the upper pitch cross through chimney. I got way in there to where you have to go down and I panicked. I'm terrible at tight stuff. I can do it if I psych up and go real slow, but I hate it.

On the cross through second pitch I freaked out. I don't even really remember it. I remember taking ten minutes to get in there, but my partner says that I was out of it and back to the belay in thirty seconds.

So that's where you come out eh?
nutjob

Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 25, 2010 - 01:25pm PT
OK, I've done the right-to-left tunnel-through on Reed's Regular years ago... not too bad but I did get my leg stuck by trying straight across and horizontal swimming motions, instead of moving up and down for path of least resistance.

Understood le_bruce. I don't think Irene wants any piece of that either.
But I do have some takers... we'll make sure the belayer has a cell phone!

Soonest it would happen is about 3 weeks from now :)
I've got a surfing "rash guard" shirt that would be perfect, and some REI long underwear.
tom woods

Gym climber
Bishop, CA
Jun 25, 2010 - 02:11pm PT
What's a cell phone gonna do? You think rescuers have some magic plan to bail you out if you get stuck?

They don't. They'll have to make it up on the spot, or call cave rescuers in from tenessee or somewhere.

I ain't saying don't do it, others have. I'm saying the best strategy is to take care of yourself because the cavalry won't be there if something goes wrong.

Hate to be a killjoy. It sounds like the cell phone remark was made in jest. I'm just saying, like with many climbing/backcountry situations do not count on being rescued.
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Jun 25, 2010 - 02:28pm PT
I gotta get a crack weasel.
the Fet

climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
Jun 25, 2010 - 02:38pm PT
Rescuers would just feed a water tube and feeding tube into the depths and let you live out your days there.
karodrinker

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Jun 25, 2010 - 02:40pm PT
Is it filthy dirty in there? I'm not sure how excited I would be for that.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Jun 25, 2010 - 02:41pm PT
There should be enough water running through there to keep it reasonably clean, although by autumn it might get a little smelly. Quite a lot of water runs down from above onto the ledge at the end of the second pitch, and a lot of it must essentially run through the ledge into the cracks and chimneys behind the wall.
scuffy b

climber
Eastern Salinia
Jun 25, 2010 - 04:10pm PT
It is not filthy dirty in there.
When water is flowing, it is concentrated in a pretty small swath.
That gets slimy, but when it's dry, no problem.
hobo_dan

Social climber
Minnesota
Jun 26, 2010 - 09:06am PT
From Pete Livesey's I feel Rock

"...........Reed Pinnacle Direct..............The first pitch is a wicked curved slash like a saber scar, but its just my size. 40 ft up, 20 feet to go, and I put a chock in. Hand-Jam size, number 9, pick it out on a natty , white tape and throw it in.
I threw it in: it went right in, two feet in, krab and all, out of reach. I was broddling around with my longest wire, and was just pulling the tape out, when I saw one of those sights you just don't want to believe or accept. In the crack was a hand, yes a hand. It still had chalk on, and grubby fingernails.
Not only was the sight of the hand completely unacceptable to me, but it also was dragging the nut away, my nut into the depths of the mountain.
I instinctively let go of the tape, and I remember thinking that dozens of climbers have probably lost their hands that way, best to let it have the nut and clear off. At the top of the pitch I grabbed the tree, tied on and checked my feet to see if they were still there- you never know with hands in cracks what they're after.
Behind the tree was a perfect, dark chimney parallel to the cliff face. creeping out of the base at ground level was a giggling Yank with my nut..."

So the chimney is pitch one. the good thing is if you get stuck you could be like the troll in The three billys goats gruff and not let anyone pass unless they gave you a beer or a sandwich






















Rick A

climber
Boulder, Colorado
Jun 26, 2010 - 12:37pm PT
Hobo-Thanks for posting that Livesey passage, great stuff.

Kevin-
Yeah, I remember the cross through chimney to the left side, may have been with Richard and Largo. Pretty secure if memory serves, but I also remember forcibly suppressing the fear that you might somehow lose traction and slide into that horrible abyss.

Going to think about something else, now.
Roger Breedlove

climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
Jun 26, 2010 - 02:25pm PT
It is not wet or dirty. It is dark and sometimes tight. You have to move around to pass chockstones (trailing rope might not work). It was a grand kid's adventure with, in my case, the complete surprise that you can exit in the cross-through abyss Rick mentions. My partners did a double take when I walked up beside them at the top of the 2nd pitch.
Maysho

climber
Soda Springs, CA
Jun 26, 2010 - 03:35pm PT
I have gone up that claustrophobic slot a couple of times, though never found the exit. Both times I made an effort but way up there it gets really tight and I lost my nerve.

Once I went up while someone was struggling mightily with leading the second pitch. Always the supportive guide/coach, I started softly talking encouragement, "hang in there, your almost there, try to relax"

"Whats that!" the guy yelled down to his partner,

"No, its me here inside the crack" he freaked out, but I calmed him down, then a bit higher he had to hang, I probably didn't help him.

I fantasized about sometime reaching a hand out to someone right before they fell off, thought they would probably really freak out and jump!

Good times...

Peter
Roger Breedlove

climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
Jun 26, 2010 - 04:48pm PT
Peter, you were too close to the crack. The way up is to start moving towards the left side. I was a long way from the 2nd pitch crack: move away from the light; move towards the dark; embrace the squeeze; arise from the abyss.




Or not.
Prod

Trad climber
Jun 26, 2010 - 04:59pm PT
Oh man!

Once I went up while someone was struggling mightily with leading the second pitch. Always the supportive guide/coach, I started softly talking encouragement, "hang in there, your almost there, try to relax"

I'd f*#king sh#t myself.

Prod.
dee ee

Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
Jun 26, 2010 - 08:35pm PT
Only crazy people go in there.
scuffy b

climber
Eastern Salinia
Jun 28, 2010 - 09:18pm PT
HoboDan,

Livesey's story is a good one.
But there's not much adventure potential on the first pitch.
I don't think you can chimney behind the jamcrack for much of its length,
only the upper part.
But, I certainly will have to go back to verify.
Caveman

climber
Cumberland Plateau
Jun 28, 2010 - 11:24pm PT
Better to climb up into tight places than climb down into tight places. caveman
TrundleBum

Trad climber
Las Vegas
Jun 29, 2010 - 05:14am PT
In an email from myself to Mark Hudon:
I was recently in the Valley.
I went down and did Reed's Direct with a couple friends and I had told these (very young and new to the Valley climbers) that I was not entirely sure of this but that I had heard that you could chimney behind the main/5.9 pitch of Reed's.

Ok another story in the back of my mind (for all these years)...

I could'a sworn that Base told me (something to this effect)...
That he was in the Valley (maybe his first time there) and that he headed down to Reed's to do the Direct.
As the story goes (in my feeble memory) he said he was leading up and unexplicable all these bomber nut placements he made were popping out. He was getting a little freaked as half the gear was popped out leaving large runs between, but worse...
"Why were these bomber placements popping out?"

I recall him saying that he was almost to the rest ledge before the short off width at the top when all of a sudden there was a big puff of chalk that came from inside the crack...
and then giggling, turning to laughter.
Any of that story sound familiar to you Sir?

Aloha and Godspeed.
TrundleBum


Mark's response in email:
I think the story about Base is mostly true. I think it was Eric Barrett who was pushing the nuts out. He may have done one or two but certainly not all or most of them.



Mason

Trad climber
Yay Area
Jul 28, 2010 - 02:02pm PT
Nutjob, did you ever get this done?

I want to see pics!
tom woods

Gym climber
Bishop, CA
Jul 28, 2010 - 02:09pm PT
he's probably still in there
nutjob

Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 28, 2010 - 05:48pm PT
I'm nursing a little shoulder wound that delayed my plans... since my grand proclamation I actually went to Reed's twice:

 I made my first try on the final pitch of Reed's Direct (got it with no falls, but scary part is in the middle with no pro looking down the chasm, not up top where there is pro)
 Had a little adventure on the first 3 pitches of Flatus. Crikey that's a classic. All wide and chimney, no face hand or finger filler. First pitch tweaked my shoulder, I kept going anyways. Pitch 3 is a squeeze chimney with zero pro if you follow the direct path. Or you can go waaay inside to get a piece of pro (I threw a biner on a sling over a chockstone that I couldn't squeeze up to reach) that might stop you from hitting bottom, but it requires tighter squeezing and ~ 10-15 feet of horizontal to surmount the chockstone that guards the end of the pitch. Cool pitch, not very long, but don't fall.

Spelunking adventure...
As soon as I am able, I'm on it. With camera and a stick of butter just in case.
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Jul 28, 2010 - 06:12pm PT
"Pitch 3 is a squeeze chimney with zero pro if you follow the direct path. Or you can go waaay inside to get a piece of pro (I threw a biner on a sling over a chockstone that I couldn't squeeze up to reach) that might stop you from hitting bottom, but it requires tighter squeezing and ~ 10-15 feet of horizontal to surmount the chockstone that guards the end of the pitch. Cool pitch, not very long, but don't fall."

Yup, ripped outta that one.....Plinko comes to mind.

Good flat landing as I remember.

The chockstone takes a .75, after you finally reach it.

Mucci
Mason

Trad climber
Yay Area
Jul 28, 2010 - 06:22pm PT
Careful man. Shoulders take a long time to heal up.

Just don't fall

That is great advice! haha.
2 l l

Sport climber
Rancho Verga, CA
Oct 25, 2010 - 04:26am PT
Pasted from friends of yosar . . .
3-28-10 Ė Climber Stuck in Cave-Reedís Pinnacle

On Sunday, March 28, 2010 at approximately 5:00 p.m. Yosemite Dispatch received a report that a climber was stuck in the crawl through on Reedís Pinnacle and was asking for assistance. Two NPS Rangers prepared to climb to the top of Reedís Direct to access the stuck climber from the prominent ledge system. Communication with the partner of the stuck climber was established at the base of the west end of the pinnacle and with the assistance from another climbing party was able to free himself from the crawl through and all parties rappelled to the base at 6:15 p.m.
scuffy b

climber
Eastern Salinia
Oct 25, 2010 - 12:57pm PT
"A Dramatic Self Rescue" in the words of those rangers.
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