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TradIsGood
Trad climber
Gunks end of country
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Feb 23, 2006 - 10:50pm PT
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Lookin up cracks belongs in that group, I think.
That is the sweetest crack picture I have seen (on this forum).
Seeing those big cams set next to each other does not exactly make one want to go out and buy one (IM stupid O).
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rmuir
Social climber
Claremont, CA
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Feb 23, 2006 - 11:50pm PT
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Cosmos. Second ascent (first continuous) by Robs Muir and Jack Roberts. Third was done by Dale Bard and company.
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Wonder
climber
WA
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Feb 23, 2006 - 11:56pm PT
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Can you believe they changed the rules in the NHL. Lame.
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Quaken
Trad climber
Las Vegas
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Jun 18, 2007 - 06:23pm PT
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got a few 2nd's to add to the list
South Seas - Dana Eubanks/Charlie Kable 1982
Sheep Ranch - Charlie Kable/Dana Eubanks 1987
Heavy Metal - Dana Eubanks/Charlie Kable 2006
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WBraun
climber
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Jun 20, 2007 - 12:05am PT
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Huh?
Mike and Dale got rescued at the Tonsillectomy traverse?
Is that true?
I don't ever remember that ....
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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Jun 20, 2007 - 05:19am PT
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Seeing those big cams set next to each other does not exactly make one want to go out and buy one (IM stupid O).
LOL
I'll try to find a photo that shows two massively overloaded pigs (and 50 lbs of firewood) docked to the "big cams set next to each other".
It's common practice to use more than one cam for a belay, especially a hauling anchor. And especially if you're going to rip the available bolts out of the wall with a crowbar 8-)
EDIT: Here's a brighter view up the Bermuda Dunes offwidth to the Alcove:
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jun 20, 2007 - 11:56am PT
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The late and great Katherine Freer was Todd's partner on the epic second ascent of ZM. Bridwell and company used several extralong ropes on the FA which completely screwed everybody up. Extra belay stances had to be put in on the repeat which they were not anticipating and it lead to a mess and a completely unnecessary ordeal for all involved.
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Gagner
climber
Boulder
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Jun 21, 2007 - 05:43pm PT
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Barbella and Avery did do Son of Heart - I thought it was the 3rd or 4th.
Another 2nd:
Myself & Eric Brand, Lost in America with the original Astro Lasso, and fat man ascent - too much beer
Edit: Someone asked about Rick Lovelace - after our little Baffin epic Rick pretty much gave up climbing. He's still living in Tahoe - was hunting and kayaking the last time we spoke...
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BriGuy
Trad climber
SL,UT
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Apr 18, 2009 - 12:34pm PT
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anyone know who did the 2nd ascent of mescalito?
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Jan 16, 2011 - 04:35pm PT
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that's a good link freerider, it's got Jaybro's Balch Camp Flake route, and a couple Pat Brennan postings.
enjoyed the read, thx.
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ElCapPirate
Big Wall climber
California
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Wow! This was/is an awesome thread. Love the banter between some of the greats.
Can anyone confirm the 2nd ascent of Heartland? Just curious...
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squishy
Mountain climber
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epic bump!
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the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
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a couple of my base routes have not been repeated.
General Dynamics is a 2 pitch route (unfinished-was going to Sickel ledge) and is my first 5.13 FA i did in yosemite- 1987- ground up, no hang dogging with Dave Hatchett. I led the first pitch (crux) he led the second (super wicked 5.11 slab pitch).
the FA just to the left has no repeats as well- Duty Now For the Future- 5.12+. This is the ONLY route where i whipped off a stance while drilling. Whipped off it a few times until i got the bolt in..
Just to the right of these is a mixed 1 pitch route called Base Hits- 5.12 which i did with Ken Ariza and we had a really good time climbing it..
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Avery
climber
NZ
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Jun 13, 2014 - 08:35pm PT
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Has "Nightmare on California Street" been repeated?
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
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Jun 13, 2014 - 10:51pm PT
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General Dynamics is a 2 pitch route (unfinished-was going to Sickel ledge) and is my first 5.13 FA i did in yosemite 1987 Surely someone else has been on this in the last few years.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jun 13, 2014 - 10:57pm PT
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Alex Baker and Eric Bissell climbed Tron, a similar 5.13 face/slab route just to the right (within Negative Pinnacle) a few years ago.
Maybe they gave General Dynamics a try?
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coolrockclimberguy69
climber
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Jun 14, 2014 - 12:40pm PT
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Didn't a british guy solo Nightmare on California St? I swear I remember reading a TR about it here on ST. He did Reticent with his buddy and made a pretty funny video for it, I think? I can't find the TR in search. Maybe I'm in the early stages of dementia?
edit: I was wrong. he did Ned's Excellent Adventure. for some reason i thought he did Nightmare.
http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Neds-Excellent-Adventure/t11834n.html
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Alex Baker
climber
Portland
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Jun 14, 2014 - 01:12pm PT
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Clint we didn't end up giving General Dynamics a shot, but it certainly is intriguing. I'm not even sure we correctly identified it. Eric probably has the skills to do it and he lives close these days. All we need to do is egg him on a bit.
I would love to hear any stories about repeating GD.
AB
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Ian Parsons
climber
UK, England
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Jun 14, 2014 - 04:25pm PT
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[quote]...some guy from Mammoth and a Swiss.[/quote
I recall a conversation in 1978 with Maurice Cochand from Yverdon; he recounted how he and Dave Stutzman were pulled off Son of Heart after running out of just about everything - but particularly water.
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