Unrepeated El Cap Routes?

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aldude

climber
Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 10, 2005 - 02:04am PT
Second ascents are proud. What are the remaining plums - routes and variations(variation=less than half the pitches are new)? A partial list -
Wings of Steel,Winds of Change,Quo Vadis,Highway to Hell,Abstract Expressionist,Turning Point,Allied Forces,The Girdle,Every Man for Himself,Continental Drift,Beyer Route - Left Side - I'm sure there are more
Minerals

Social climber
The Deli
Nov 10, 2005 - 02:27am PT
Dude is now posting on ST? Amazing…

Hole World ?, Heavy Metal & Tinker Toys ?, Nightmare, Ned’s, Golden Blade (var.), Genesis ?, Heartland ?, False Shield ?, Jose Mem. (var.), Dark Star ?, Dave’s new routes… ...for a few guesses…

Continental has not seen a second?

Which Beyer routes?



Edit: On second thought, has there ever been a ‘second ascent’ list ever published? Can we list all of the second ascents/ascentionists of all of the El Cap routes that have been climbed more than once? With all of the… um… ‘old dads’ around here these days, you’d think that might be possible. Post up, oh knowledgeable ones!
Roger Breedlove

Trad climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
Nov 10, 2005 - 08:14am PT
Hi Minerals,

I like your idea of colleting second ascents. I cannot help in this regard personally since I pretty much ignored the big wall routes. (Accepting one's lightness is the first step to recovery.)

Nevertheless it is interesting. Here is a start:

Nose: R.Robbins, C. Pratt, J. Fitschen, T. Frost, date 1960
Muir: R. Robbins solo, 1968
Salathe: R. Robbins and T. Frost, 1962
Dihedral Wall: R. Robbins and T. Frost, 1964
West Buttress: R. Robbins and C. Pratt 1965
WEML: R. Robbins and D. Laurie??
T2

climber
Cardiff by the sea
Nov 10, 2005 - 08:57am PT
Minerals,

Where is Dark Star located, and who put it up?
ricardo

Gym climber
San Francisco, CA
Nov 10, 2005 - 11:34am PT
did dave name his new route "Atlantis" after all? -- (thats the name he was kicking around while climbing) ..

.. got to see some of the pitches up close under the shark fin .. pretty sick hooking.
Light&Fast!!!

climber
calgary
Nov 10, 2005 - 11:40am PT
Take Genesis, Darkstar, False Shield, and possiblely Winds of Change and Heartland off the list.
Burt

climber
Sin City
Nov 10, 2005 - 12:08pm PT
has heartland seen a repeat? Also what about The Real Nose? Darkstar, Bridwell route from a coule of years ago over on the far right? Also the beyer routes one on the left side (past lurking fear) and 2 on the right side (dawn wall and Zodiac areas) repeats anyone?
Burt


Also, Hey Eric Abstract Expressionist is it finished? I heard (we know how climbers gossip) that you had a direct finish planned but never completed it. Is there any truth to this? I think ammon led the first pitch (or part of the first pitch) thinking that it was ZM, boy what a wake up!
bringmedeath

climber
la la land
Nov 10, 2005 - 12:31pm PT
Genesis, repeat by Highway to hell team in the late 90s. Also repeated by Steve this summer with his wife. Looks like a good line.

Darkstar, Steve and team did a push on this route a few years ago. It starts to the right of the slab pitches over below the Waterfall Route. You can see where heads were placed. The first pitch did not look like A5 as shown on the topo I have. But whatever, still looked like risky if you fell. Looked better than I would have thought too. F.A. was Bridwell and someone.

Winds of Change, Valerio has done this and so have some other young guys from Europe.

Heartland, someone this summer said something about Steve climbing this. Wouldn't surprise me...
False Shield, I think Steve has done this.
Real Nose, Steve may have repeated this also???

Abstract... I didn't get the impression that the first pitch was the one to worry about. You can sorta see where he went from nearby routes. I think it would be a pretty good route as it is. Or just climb most of it then finish up the Straw.

Party on! I can't wait to get back to the Valley! Couple more weeks! Fun Fun Fun!!!
yo

climber
NOT Fresno
Nov 10, 2005 - 12:34pm PT
Climber gossip? I'm full o' that.

Heard whoever it was on Genesis said the aid wasn't bad but the free was terrifying.

Yeah, who did Heartland?

hahah, I heard that about Ammon too. No topo, goes up on AE. That's a classic "What the f*#k is happening!" aid moment. Didn't the Hubers free Zod variations take some of AE's lines?


Some 2nds:

Tom Frost and Fitschen and somebody did the 2nd of RNWF too, in barely 2 days. Grade V, anyone?

Thaw ticked a bunch of those Klaus routes.

Grant, Reticent, '97.

T2/Lovelace, Kaos, no?

Roger Breedlove did the 2nd of Breedlove Memorial in 1904. Actually pretty freaking hard to do if you think about it.



EDIT: Was Boulos on Dark Star? And Jake, you dumbass, if you go to the Valley in winter you'll get frostbite.
bringmedeath

climber
la la land
Nov 10, 2005 - 12:46pm PT
-Darkstar... Steve Gerberding and team
-Get Whacked... Highway to Hell team
-Pressure Cooker... some guys from Philli... would have to check notes
-High Plains Dripper... guys from Philli
-Plastic... Kevin Thaw and Chris Kalous
-BUBS... Russ and Walt
-Surgeon General... Rick Lovelace solo
-Kaos... yup lovelace/T2
-Scorched Earth... Chris Kalous and Chris Righter
-Gulfstream... Scott Stowe and Will Oxx
-Tempest... lovelace or alex lowe??? Or did Gerberding get 2nd
-Reticent... Kevin Thaw, Chris Kalous, and Mark Synnott
-Disorderly Conduct... Eric George, Eric Coomer, and Brent Ware
-Genesis... Highway to Hell team
-Winds of Change... need to check notes but two 19 year olds



Hey T2, were you in the valley sometime in July or so?
bringmedeath

climber
la la land
Nov 10, 2005 - 12:49pm PT
Yo, not if I don't just hang in my harness while belaying a 8 hour pitch. Not bringing belay chair was really bad idea. So was wearing my boots and socks I use in yosemite during the summer. Plus I want to prove doctor wrong and the valley in winter looks rad. I have already been playin in the snow this year.
T2

climber
Cardiff by the sea
Nov 10, 2005 - 02:25pm PT
Bringmedeath

Yes, I believe we met in the meadows briefly.

Be careful with those feet. I had to desend off the Captain in about 3-4 feet of snow after a winter ascent, and it fuked up my feet for a few weeks after the I got back. If you have any doubts ask my buddy E. His feet were frost bitten in Asia and he had huge ploblems with them after we got rescued on Occtopussy last fall. He counldn't walk or do sh#t for weeks as well. I am not saying anything other than be careful bro.
jack herer

climber
chico, ca
Nov 10, 2005 - 02:29pm PT
bermuda dunes - chris kalous?
aldude

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 10, 2005 - 05:30pm PT
Good beta here.Yes Bryan even dinosaurs evolve. A few more candidates - Ring of Fire,Adrift,Verano Magico? AE looks stupendous but will for now remain a var.Scott Cosgrove and I accompianied Steve on Darkstar in 03. Did it in 20.09 - mostly in the dark - fittingly. 55 meter pitch up high was the barnburner(A4+). Still can't remember the name of the Beyer route but recall it has 5.12 tr pitches. Who's Dave?
Sam Shannon

Social climber
the middle of nowhere
Nov 10, 2005 - 06:17pm PT
Mediterreaneo; FA by the Gallego bro's from Basque country in 1981. (First all-foreign FA on El Cap?) Second ascent by Ken Bokelund and Kevin _? from Lake Tahoe in early 90's.

I met Kevin once. He's a helluva lot tougher than I am and he laughed in my face when I told him about my own attempt to solo the route a couple of years ago.
James

Social climber
My Subconcious
Nov 10, 2005 - 09:11pm PT
Aldude,
Who cares about the Capitan. It's passe. Let's hear about The Chief. Anyone repeat the route you did? What about Pegasus on Quarter dome?

"Dave" is Dave Turner a 23 year old climber from Sacramento California who has been doing some aiding. He put up two new El Cap routes, one called Block Party and a more recent one named named Atlantis. Both of these were solo first ascents. His routes come out of the Alcove and are usually really loose. He garnered national media attention when he was rescued a few pitches from the summit of El Capitan. It was during the storm that killed two Japanese climbers on the Nose.

Fluoride

Trad climber
on a rock or mountain out west
Nov 10, 2005 - 10:22pm PT
How many of these second ascencionists did the route pure without adding anything? I heard when Thaw & Co. did the second of Plastic SD they added bolts at belays. That's WAY lame. Not what the FA'ist intended the route to be and changes it for all parties that follow. If the FA'ist wanted the route to be scary, Thaw should have left it in it's scary original state or picked another line to climb. His seconding of it is marred by his changing the nature of the route pro.
bringmedeath

climber
la la land
Nov 10, 2005 - 10:55pm PT
About the PSD bolts... I have a whole rant on that! Everyone minus the Brazilans were like famous/heard of people. Ammon I think chopped some cheater rivets, we bashed some bat holes.

The added belay bolts are lame but I'm just as lame for not chopping them. There wasn't a need for it either. The 2 spots I can think of had a bolt already from the F.A. you just had to place some pretty decent looking pins to make a full anchor.

As for lead sh#t, all of it is now good. There is an added rivet on the 12th due to a nice size feature departin.

Oh I think it was Scott Stowe who did second of Gulfstream... but not sure I forgot to ask him this summer.

edit... Scott Stowe and Will Oxx did 2nd ascent of Gulfstream... aldude knew it
aldude

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 11, 2005 - 02:58am PT
Since you ask I will spray - The Chief on Yasoo Dome is my favoriteFA,...so far.Did the second and FOD with jimmi Hayden - time short,not free. A few years later I heard that P.Coward and co. fired it and managed to tr the crux pitch - a low angled leaning book. Well needless to say I recruited Ben and Bernie from the Deli and I managed to free that Albatross at 12b in a 2 day effort. No known fourth ? Tenaya Canyon is magical and the route worth the death-defying approach. WARNING - only 11 bolts in fifteen pitches,total!
As for Quarter Dome I think you're refering to "Quarter Pounder" on West Q- Dome.Four stretcher pitches on the right near the rockscar - 5.11a - no bolts,burly approach. Second ascent unlikely.
aldude

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 11, 2005 - 03:03am PT
P.S. Mad Props to Dave
hollyclimber

Big Wall climber
Seattle, Wa
Nov 11, 2005 - 03:31pm PT
The "guys from Philli" were actually two Hungarians living in Philli at the time of the climbs, back in Hungary now. Oscar and his girlfriend whose name I can't spell, but she only follows so I believe they did some of those walls as three with another Hungarian partner. I hung out with Oscar and his girlfriend a few years ago in the Valley.

Holly
Fluoride

Trad climber
on a rock or mountain out west
Nov 11, 2005 - 06:58pm PT
bump just to get current stuff back on the front page.

By the way, who the f*#k went through and deleted all their posts and caused all these old posts to be bumped to the head of the forum?
bringmedeath

climber
la la land
Nov 12, 2005 - 01:22pm PT
Here are the Highway to Hell names... Gabor Berecz and Thomas Tivadar

Hungarians Oskar Nadasdi and Enci Szentirmai
deuce4

Big Wall climber
the Southwest
Nov 12, 2005 - 01:29pm PT
Al Dude you are badass. Those routes back there are stellar. Did one of the 5.11's back there (by Morris?) on the far right side of Watkins. Saw so much potential on that face for the hardmen like you.

cheers
JM
aldude

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 12, 2005 - 03:22pm PT
Oh Please Mr Trango - I'm nothing more than a washed up Slab Sherrif and belayer to the stars. Now Autobahn,that's worthy. Steve says Continental is still unrepeated - and raves about it's quality. This is embarrasing but can somebody tell me how to remove this edit button - Noob
flamer

Trad climber
denver
Nov 12, 2005 - 10:33pm PT
Gulf Stream was Wally (Barker?) I believe.
Kalous had the 3rd.

Chris Kalous did the 2nd of Bermuda Dunes for sure(to answer the above ?)

I think he also did the 2nd on Horse chute??

He did several 2nd and 3rd's....

josh
bringmedeath

climber
la la land
Nov 12, 2005 - 11:20pm PT
flamer you have no idea what you are talking about!

Wally and Chris did it after a bunch of guys! Those guys did like 6 and 7th maybe on Gulfstream. You are tellin me Horse Chute was 2nd by Kalous... WTF?!? That is a bit odd sounding!
aldude

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 13, 2005 - 01:29pm PT
News Flash - Second ascent of Gulfstream - Scott Stowe and Will Oxx. Oh,so only I see the edit button - duh.
bringmedeath

climber
la la land
Nov 13, 2005 - 02:01pm PT
I edited my above posts on gulfstream. That way the info will be more obvious.
James

Social climber
My Subconcious
Nov 13, 2005 - 02:51pm PT
Aldude,
Sick spray. Bernie said that the Chief free stuff looked burly. Something about some dicey climbing on pitch 11...almost a solo.

Proud Dude.
BrentA

Gym climber
estes park
Nov 13, 2005 - 04:17pm PT
So Mr. Kalous was a good friend/mentor back in college when I was cutting my teeth on my first El Cap routes. You need to watch your tone in regards to him...he is a PROUD brotha. It would surprise me greatly if he and Kevin beefed up any belays on PSD. As for adding holes, I would say absolutely out of the question. He was about as ethicaly "pure" a climber as I have ever known. He never even fixed pitches. He also climbs hard 5.13, and has been developing proud ground up free routes in the Ghost Riveer last I heard. Don't mean to preach, but have some reverance. He lead every pitch but one on Bermuda Dunes, and most of Scorched Earth.

What are your claims to fame Mr. Death? You ever climb an El Cap route without fixed heads? Mr. Kalous probably did all that stuff before you picked up your first carabiner.

On a different note, I tried to repeat Cont Drift and swear (no joke) that the first pitch gave me my first grey hairs.

Anyhoo, sorry to pipe up, but Chris deserves much bettter than to get slandered by a guy that wears tennis shoes on alpine walls.
BrentA

Gym climber
estes park
Nov 13, 2005 - 04:46pm PT
Fair enuff, let the facts stand for themselves.
bringmedeath

climber
la la land
Nov 13, 2005 - 04:52pm PT
Are you a moron? I never slandered him. It is whoever drilled the bat hooks and these retarted machine heads at the belays who I think is the real idiot.

About boots, well that is all my fault. I just go out and climb and in this case made a big mistake.
jack herer

climber
chico, ca
Nov 13, 2005 - 08:03pm PT
i belive mr. death climbed PSD fresh out of high school. what are your claims to fame? ive got none... but you could slander me because i cant afford any 300 dollar high tech alpine boots : )
flamer

Trad climber
denver
Nov 13, 2005 - 09:20pm PT
Ok so I'll edit.....If you looked at my statements they weren't said in an absolute way.....so captain death chill the f*#k out.

As far as Kalous goes....I don't know him anywhere near as well as brent, but I couldn't respect a climber more.

josh

Scratch that I'm not editing sh#t.
yo

climber
NOT Fresno
Nov 13, 2005 - 10:45pm PT
Play nice, kids.

I'm interested in the second ascent list, especially the old routes. Don Lauria was in on the 2nd of the NA, I think.

Sort of interesting, with all the lines sitting around unclimbed, that Robbins and Co. would do early repeats of those routes. Was that just RR keeping tabs on the competition? Checking up on their work?
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
Nov 14, 2005 - 12:02am PT
My memory is sketchy here, but I seem to recall my Reticent partner Sean Easton [not Isaac!] telling me he did the second ascent of KAOS. [I could be wrong...]
T2

climber
Cardiff by the sea
Nov 14, 2005 - 09:36am PT
Hello Pete,

I believe your buddy Sean must have been mistaken. Rick Lovelace and I thought we got the second on Kaos. We did it not too long after Steve and Dave put it up. I am thinking a month or six weeks afterwards. Rick really wanted to get on it before anyone else.

Tommy
Funk 29

Trad climber
Wallowa, OR
Nov 14, 2005 - 10:43am PT

Beyer Route…Martyrs Brigade?
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
Nov 14, 2005 - 06:30pm PT
Yeah, Tommy, I could well be mistaken. Perhaps Sean made the third ascent?

Sorry I missed you this fall for a beer, eh? Catch up with ya in the spring?

Cheers,

Pete
bringmedeath

climber
la la land
Nov 14, 2005 - 07:18pm PT
Who did second of Wyoming Sheep Ranch? Native Son? Did Bongard solo Jolly Roger for 2nd?!?! THat is f*#king sick!
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
Nov 14, 2005 - 07:31pm PT
Yeah, Jake, that's right. Bongard soloed the second ascent. You can click here for [url="http://www.rockclimbing.com/ascent/index.php?AscentID=250"]a history of early ascents of Jolly Roger.[/url] Incidentally, you should put Jolly Roger on your Hit List, dude. It's the best route I've done on El Cap [and I've done 28].

Cheers, eh?

P.S. Sorry for all the bold letters, eh? It was a phase I was going through. My agreement with that website is that I will not edit anything. Incidentally, check out all the links in the post. I hope most of them still work. Cool historical information.
yo

climber
NOT Fresno
Nov 14, 2005 - 08:00pm PT
Where's Deucey? He and X must've been pretty early on the Ranch.

And Native Son--doesn't the ST say the second drilled? (Too lazy to open a book that's eight feet away...)
bringmedeath

climber
la la land
Nov 14, 2005 - 08:01pm PT
oh ya like Tracy and someone... my guide book is right next to me but I don't have SuperTaco no more... it went somewhere... probably the Merced
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
Nov 14, 2005 - 08:01pm PT
The bat hook holes on Native Son which were drilled around the A1 nasty bit had been filled when I soloed the thing in 98. Hardest damn A1 crack I ever climbed - it swallowed my 20-year-old #3 Friend. Sheesh.
bringmedeath

climber
la la land
Nov 14, 2005 - 08:04pm PT
Isn't it a f*#king squeeze??? Do 2nd ascent of Golden Blade to avoid! That var. is raddical looking!!!
yo

climber
NOT Fresno
Nov 14, 2005 - 08:08pm PT
Pound an OE and get up in there and grovel like a bitch.

Deuce is like fifth of the ZM too. I'll bet he knows all this.
bringmedeath

climber
la la land
Nov 14, 2005 - 08:29pm PT
Pound two and free the whole pitch! HAHAHA
T2

climber
Cardiff by the sea
Nov 14, 2005 - 08:45pm PT
I don't know if they drilled or not, but Tracy Dorton and Rick Lovelace did the 2nd of Native Son. Rick started the route with Kurt Smith. I believe Rick may have whipped while they were fixing, or there is something that happend the scared Kurt away. Rick recruted Tracy and they finished the route.

How about the Shortest Straw, I think Steve Gerberding and Scott Stowe was the team.

Pete:
Sorry I missed you as well. I didn't get much time in the valley this year.
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
Nov 14, 2005 - 09:14pm PT
Yeah, Fish'll know about Native Son. I read on his website that he said Tracey drilled the holes. [link supplied on request to avoid hearsay]

I met Tracey last year. He climbed The Nose with the Bird and this loudmouthed black chick.

"First Black Lesbian Ascent of The Nose," she told me. [I sh#t you knott!!] Just about pissed myself laughing!
deuce4

Big Wall climber
the Southwest
Nov 14, 2005 - 09:21pm PT
Think Xaver and I did the 3rd on the Sheep Ranch. FA on the Cyclops Eye Direct finish during that ascent, though, then did the second with Nathan Martin on an ascent of the NA years later.

Too bad Walt's not around--he was a reliable repository for all the info you're looking for. Me, I can barely remember all the climbs I did.
mark_s

climber
Nov 14, 2005 - 11:22pm PT
Pace Maker, Vernao Magico (sp?), Sea horse(FA. Korean Sean?), Heavy Metal and tinker toys, Disorderdly Conduct?
bringmedeath

climber
la la land
Nov 14, 2005 - 11:31pm PT
Disorderly has been done for the most part. Sea Horse... HAHAHAHA, no it is never going to get finished. Sticky Rice is unrepeated in whole. But some of it has been repeated by Alik Berg and Scotty V.
aldude

climber
Monument Manor
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 15, 2005 - 05:45pm PT
So my unofficial tally shows 25 or so unrepeated routes.
that's roughly one fifth of the routes on El Cap! A few more possibles:
Chinese Water Torture
Squeeze Play

2nd ascent,Bad Seed - Steve,Scott,Dave
Flight of the Albatross - Steve,Harpole
bringmedeath

climber
la la land
Nov 15, 2005 - 05:49pm PT
Chinese has been done
Russ Walling

Social climber
NOT FOR LOAN™ CC3
Nov 15, 2005 - 06:01pm PT
Squeeze Play... Hmmmm... can't remember.....
bringmedeath

climber
la la land
Nov 15, 2005 - 06:46pm PT
So which f*#ker is going to step up and do 2nd of Nightmare, Drift, Everyman???
sr

climber
Bay Area, CA
Nov 15, 2005 - 08:09pm PT
2nd ascent, Lurking Fear- Alan Bartlett and ?
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
Nov 15, 2005 - 08:10pm PT
I seem to remember hearing somewhere:

"Continental Drift? Hmph. Rivet fest." True or not?

Hey! Is Pacemaker really unrepeated? Please verify. If so, I'll make the second ascent next spring with my partner Tom.

Russ: Answer the question six posts above you.

Jake: Shut up and climb. I need a partner this spring for something hard. Interested?

As for Korea Sean:

Bwah-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha!!! His new route, upon which he has been working for a year or so[?], has a high point roughly corresponding with the top of P8 of NA Wall. Bwah-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha!!!! He riveted above the roof to the left of P5 of NA Wall!! Bwah-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha!!!!!
bringmedeath

climber
la la land
Nov 15, 2005 - 08:30pm PT
Pete I'm gone this spring and all summer. I'm takin my climbin else where. I'll be in the valley all of December... at least ragin at Coilers is fun when not on wall. Pete do you realize how much beer we would have to haul??? El Cap in winter... F*#k yes!

Sean is super nice guy, but his route... and ropes...

'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
Nov 15, 2005 - 08:33pm PT
Concur re. Sean.

Where you climbing?
Russ Walling

Social climber
NOT FOR LOAN™ CC3
Nov 15, 2005 - 08:49pm PT
ummm... Ok Pete... yeah that's what Walt told me.
alik

Big Wall climber
edmonton
Nov 15, 2005 - 09:47pm PT
Tucker Tech has done Pacemaker. Not sure if it was the 2nd though.

Did sean really push his route higher? That's cool if he did. Did he find a partner?
Interesting character that sean. Asks everyone walking along the base if they want to join him on the seahorse. Maybe he finally decided to take matters into his own hands. Super friendly guy.
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
Nov 15, 2005 - 11:09pm PT
I watched Sean pushing his route higher for three consecutive weekends. He would jug up on Saturday, then rap off, then jug up again on Sunday. We're talking like eight pitches up! Why the hell he didn't establish a mini-camp with food and water and stuff is beyond me. I have no idea what he has climbed or how. Dave Turner told me over the radio the route consists mostly of chiselled heads and 3/8" bolts! But you'll have to ask someone who knows.

Helluva nice guy. But he doesn't get it. He told me and Cybele he had several hundred dollars of cash stolen from the base. Rather than take it the dough up the wall with him, he had instead put it in a little bag, and had hung it on a flake perhaps eight feet off the deck. I noticed the bag there, and wondered what it was.
yo

climber
NOT Fresno
Nov 16, 2005 - 12:05am PT
That's called jacking, klaus.
Burt

climber
Sin City
Nov 16, 2005 - 12:15am PT
I don't think that is jacking, just the truth. Those pitches were f*#ked, and very proud IMO. Did Lovlace get the second of Surgeon General? I know Brian McCray also soloed the route, the complete route. I think some guys did it up to Lunar then bailed over to Zodaic. He said he thought the no name pitches up high were pretty rad and not to be missed if doing the route.
Burt
Burt

climber
Sin City
Nov 16, 2005 - 12:40am PT
Sweet, if those are the new rules, then f*#k Klaus I'm doin the Zodiac swinging over and doin a pitch on Abstract, I'll get that second! Brian said SG was sick! he said "the Foe" was pretty rad. Nice work.
Burt
yo

climber
NOT Fresno
Nov 16, 2005 - 12:45am PT
Whoa, didn't mean nothing except the old Anything Except FAs is Just Jacking rule. hahaha


And I agree, BTW--Deuce got the first ascent of AO and you got the last. Cool.



yo

climber
NOT Fresno
Nov 16, 2005 - 12:51am PT
Naw, my bad.

Hard free on the last few of SG? Looks like seams to crazy ass mantles and slabs up there. Little trees on the ledges and sh#t.
T2

climber
Cardiff by the sea
Nov 16, 2005 - 01:24am PT
Yo & Klaus

Lovelace and I did what we thought was the 4th ascent of the AO. But it now sounds like probably the 3rd. We as well climbed the first 5 "scary loose" pitches to El Cap tree that have since fallen.(any comment on those pitches Deuce?) I believe it was in the fall of 91' when we climbed it. Gerberding started soloing the route while we were finishing up on the top of the Turnpike. I would have think Steve was the last to do the complete route.
Burt

climber
Sin City
Nov 16, 2005 - 01:24am PT
What really made the whipper worse is his arm kept the grigri open! He went alot bigger than he should have. Ammon say it from the trip area and he thought he was dead or something like that. We talked about it on a route that the 3 of us did in Zion, we laughed our asses off. He got this really bad burn (still has the scar to this day) and he was worried about some kind of infection, not the best thing to be thinking about 12 pitches up an el cap hard route! HA!
Burt
bringmedeath

climber
la la land
Nov 16, 2005 - 01:29am PT
So how many ascents of El Cap has Lovelace done?!?! Has to be pretty damn high.

Oh and what is of him now? I can't believe his Baffin epic, that is a true epic!
T2

climber
Cardiff by the sea
Nov 16, 2005 - 01:41am PT
Bringmedeath

If I were to guess, in the 35-40 range I know I have done 8 or 10 with him.

Rick on the Turnpike after doing the AO. I'll try and find a shot of the loose sh#t down low.

Lambone

Ice climber
Ashland, Or
Nov 17, 2005 - 05:55pm PT
this thread rocks!
caughtinside

Social climber
Davis, CA
Nov 17, 2005 - 06:09pm PT
Pacemaker:

I met a guy at the Leap last fall, who said he'd done the 2nd with an Australian guy named Tony. Forgot his name, but he lives in SF and tells a great story.
wonderbread

climber
Nov 17, 2005 - 07:36pm PT
Has Adrift been mentioned yet? I remember being at the pub with Pritchard one night and he mentioned that it hadn't seen a repeat. This was a few years ago...
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
Nov 17, 2005 - 09:15pm PT
I remember meeting some Brits a few years ago who were going to repeat Adrift, said it had been put up by their mates. I seem to recall it goes straight up from P5 of Mescalito. I don't know how many independent pitches there are on it.

Eric is bad-ass for sure. This fall I watched him through Tom Evans' telescope on the traversing 9th pitch [Florida Swamps] of A.O. Wall. I remember the pitch, because Tom's viewfinder shows a mirror image. He was leading on a single rope, and after clipping the rivet, he completely backcleaned the hooking bit, and much of the expanding blades and arrows part. Man, that boy was run out!

For the record, since I am a known chickensh*t, I would surely have led the pitch on double ropes. Me backclean? Like, I don't think so, eh?
ckalous

Trad climber
Colorado
Nov 23, 2005 - 05:14pm PT
Hey, Chris Kalous here. A dude in indian creek told me about this thread- never been to the sight before but I figured I'd weigh in and fill in a few details:

Brent and Josh, thanks for the shout out!

Brent, hope your summer and fall went well. Hope to see you soon but I'll be in S. America all winter so...

The added bolt on Plastic Surgery...yep, it's there. Had nothing to do with making it 'safer' or down-grading (the bolt there was good and climbing off it not so bad). It was a convenience thing- two bags, two dudes, etc. No supplimental gear in that spot. Two bolts is a ton more convenient. Plus the only real danger was blowing the single bolt while hauling with both of us hanging on it which just seems stupid to me. We didn't really think anything of it. Sorry to the purists and FA. If ya think me and Kevin are pussies, fine with me. Head on up and chop-chop (before hauling, of course.)

Second Ascents:

Reticent w/ Thaw and Synnot (Thaw lead the crux).

Plastic Surgery w. Thaw (We both lead supposed A5 pitches though Kevin lead a dangerous loose flake pitch rated A4 which felt like the crux of the route.)

Scorched Earth w/ Chris Righter (I lead all the cruxes. I did not entirely free the Leavitator pitch which I think was probably freed on the FA)

Bermuda Dunes w/ Rebecca Rusch(I lead most pitches. Incidentally, I added a f*#ked up 1/4 bolt to one of the two OW pitch belays which I believe have become the standard free version of Freerider and the Salathe. I hope someone has had the sense to replace it since. Also, Rebecca went on to solo some routes in the Valley and Zion after cutting her teeth on this route.)

My Gulf Stream ascent was the second SOLO. Wally was up there a couple weeks before me. His ascent was probably 8th or 9th.

Well, that's it. Don't really aid climb much any more. I never really had much reverance for the pursuit, anyway. These days, I'd rather free climb- its way more challenging. All the free climbing work on the captain in the last few years is visionary. I hope to check it out this coming year. See ya around.

CK
bringmedeath

climber
la la land
Nov 23, 2005 - 07:49pm PT
Was this at top of 3??? Seems like all the other added bolts were really weird.

The 1st pitch anchor on High Plains Dripper caused my friend concern. Single bolt with nothin in the way of belay gear. We ended up belayin over on Pressure Cooker and traverseing back in. Skippin the 2nd pitch, which was all wet anyways. My buddy led a proud variation tho... one of the moves... total bone breaker should the hook pop that you are pendo'in off. I think we did like 200 feet of new climbin there... kinda forgot about that. But we bailed off the route cause I wasn't willin to hack it out after deckin.
Fluoride

Trad climber
on a rock or mountain out west
Nov 23, 2005 - 08:08pm PT
You go up to do the second ascent of an A5 climb and decide it's belays aren't convenient enough for YOU so YOU change the route for YOUR needs?

Wow, what if we all did that.

Rhodo-Router

Trad climber
Otto, NC
Nov 23, 2005 - 10:28pm PT
People are starving, getting mangled, dying of AIDS, all over the world...and you get worked into a lather over THIS?
golsen

Social climber
kennewick, wa
Nov 23, 2005 - 10:40pm PT
maybe they wanted to add fluoride to the water in his town....
Fluoride

Trad climber
on a rock or mountain out west
Nov 23, 2005 - 10:52pm PT
Rhodo, you really wanna see lather worked up, head over to all those insane LEB threads hehe. I've read them several times and still have no clue what they're all agog about.

It's attitudes like CK's that over the years have caused a lot of the overbolting at belays on the Captain. Cause hey, there's not enough bolts for MY needs, so I'll just add some at this belay to make it better for ME. That's just a selfish attitude that's not very ethical and has turned El Cap into a scrapyard of overbolted belays over the years.

Not to mention CK had a friend upthread who when we initially brought up the bolting on PSD, he went off on us about how Kalous is the "most ethical" climber he knows, how he'd NEVER do somthing like that. And then not only does the guy come on and admit they bolted on the second ascent, but the reason he gave was stunningly retarded. If it was something like the only available places for pro at the belay fell off the rock, that'd be one thing. But "oh, I don't think there's enough bolts for me and my partner to manage all of our crap comfortably so let me slam an extra bolt in" - on a f*#king second ascent notheless!! - is just lame.

Now I have to get back to work curing AIDS and feeding starving children.
mike hartley

climber
Nov 23, 2005 - 10:53pm PT
As to the post my Mr. Kalous, I had a different take. Ya gotta love a man who’s honest with nothing to hide and nothing to prove… and (especially when it comes to belays) willing to think for himself and not worry about the yapping dogs down in the meadow.

Pretty impressive list of seconds to boot.
bringmedeath

climber
la la land
Nov 23, 2005 - 11:36pm PT
How many of you are willin to belay off a single bolt... with 2 people, 2 full haulbags, and a bunch of air benethe you? I'm guessin not too many. I think the 2nd added to, you;d need to climb a move or 2 to get a bomber piece. I think the belay is at a stance and above it is like a beak to a good cam.

Klaus... who is it that drilled the bathooks???

Who is Floruide??? What has he done... any hard routes? Just curious...

Chris is pretty stand up about it! Says they did it... seems like most would deny and blame someone else.

Fluoride

Trad climber
on a rock or mountain out west
Nov 23, 2005 - 11:49pm PT
Jake, after watching Brent slam you upthread about "what have YOU done" and watch him hammer you for wearing tennies up a Grade VII route when you seconded what was done to PSD, it's not worth going over climbing resumes online.

I'm before your time, but I've heard about your accomplishments over the past year. Mighty impressive and in good style.

I'll let Klaus speak for himself on the rest of this topic. But I'm pretty sure I know how it'll go.
bringmedeath

climber
la la land
Nov 23, 2005 - 11:59pm PT
ah... if you have spent much time... you will probably beat me with that. I was just curious on who ya are, didn't mean to offend or anything. Read enough of your posts that a name is always cool.



Sucidal Failure

Trust Your Mechanic, this is a good Screamer ad!!! HAHAHA
Fluoride

Trad climber
on a rock or mountain out west
Nov 24, 2005 - 12:07am PT
Jake, no matter what Brent said upthread I personally think anyone who does a Grade VII in tennis shoes is a definite somebody, if anything I think that makes it even prouder. I have nothing but respect for what you've accomplished so far.

Nice pics!!
bringmedeath

climber
la la land
Nov 24, 2005 - 12:15am PT
It is grade VI by the way, don't want to confuse our route with really crazy shit! My partner brought more of tennis shoes than I did, but he always belayed in the ledge, I would just hang in my harness. I had some really light high top boots with yosemite summer style socks. Rookie mistake and cheapness.

Oh about brent was more pokin fun about the boots. Ask him about his frostbite...
Melissa

Gym climber
berkeley, ca
Nov 24, 2005 - 12:39am PT
"Who is Floruide??? What has he done"

(S)he for the first question.

And I'll guess Klaus for the second. But it's only a guess.
golsen

Social climber
kennewick, wa
Nov 24, 2005 - 12:47am PT
yep, doing an alpine wall in tennis shoes does probably indicate you are somebody...

so fluoride aint in the water, k is in fluoride? I bet the anti-fluoridation folks wont have too much to say about that. sounds like its all good!
BrentA

Gym climber
estes park
Nov 24, 2005 - 12:59am PT
Fluoride... I have only this to say...

Jake had the sack to email me directly. I wrote him back, haven't heard back from him, I'm assuming were all good?

I don't feel any need to tell you anything about anything I've ever done with myself, climbing or otherwise.

Glad Jake made note of the Grade VI thing, big diff between that and Grade VII, imho.

Hope the skies are blue Chris, and nada viento...take it down amigo. Have a pisco for me, the calafate (sp?) hasn't brought me back yet.
Fluoride

Trad climber
on a rock or mountain out west
Nov 24, 2005 - 01:03am PT
Yes Gols, all is good.

My bad on the Grade VII mate. Still, Grade VI in tennies is still sick. Something tells me Jake will probably end up topping that one sometime in the near future....flip flops??

And did Melissa just call me gay? Sh#t, the wife's gonna be pissed.
aldude

climber
Monument Manor
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 24, 2005 - 06:38pm PT
WORD!!
enci

climber
Hungary
Feb 23, 2006 - 03:31am PT
Yes, we really did High Plains Dripper in '97 and Pressure Cooker in '98.

Holly wrote: "The "guys from Philli" were actually two Hungarians living in Philli at the time of the climbs, back in Hungary now. Oscar and his girlfriend whose name I can't spell, but she only follows so I believe they did some of those walls as three with another Hungarian partner."
No, there was no third partner, Oszkar led all pitches on both routes.
Cheers,
Oszkar Nadasdi&Eniko Szentirmai from Hungary
enci

climber
Hungary
Feb 23, 2006 - 03:50am PT
Just one more thing: we did not find any of the belays "unsafe". Maybe I'm wrong, Klaus may want to correct me, but as I remember - though it was a long time ago - the onebolt-belay could've been reinforced with a nut, so on the belays we'd never felt "unsafe".
binky

Big Wall climber
boulder
Feb 23, 2006 - 01:45pm PT
Zenyatta Mondatta -2cd ascent I think was Todd Bibler and partner. He told me once he came to valley, asked for the hardest thing around and sent it! Then off to alaska to climb 1st full ascent of Moonflower buttress. Sick old man!

'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
Feb 23, 2006 - 09:45pm PT
"Bermuda Dunes w/ Rebecca Rusch(I lead most pitches. Incidentally, I added a f*#ked up 1/4 bolt to one of the two OW pitch belays which I believe have become the standard free version of Freerider and the Salathe. I hope someone has had the sense to replace it since."

{smile}

Consider it done. Tom and I made the fourth[?] ascent of Bermuda Dunes a couple years ago, and replaced I believe 23 old rusty 1/4" bolts with new 3/8-inchers. I had thought that removing old bolts with "tuning forks" then drilling out the holes and installing new bolts would be difficult, but it's not really, at least once you get the hang of it. We drilled no new holes.


Above is the view looking up the crack.


Here's a closer look at the bolts. The original is on the right, and the one we first replaced is on the left. Both were replaced. Those are Tom's nine-inch Valley Giant cams. Superb craftsmanship, and highly recommended by Dr. Piton.


Tom made up these belts of bolts and bits out of duct tape. I felt like Machine Gun Kelly, a 20's gangster who ended up in Alcatraz. Note that I said "gangster" and not "gangsta" - there is nothing "gangsta" about me, and there never will be.

Bermuda Dunes is a brilliant route, and probably my second-favourite on El Cap after Jolly Roger.

Cheers,
Pete

[edited to fix busted photo links - duh]
Wonder

climber
WA
Feb 23, 2006 - 10:14pm PT
so pete, im looking at your pic and now im thinking of the other thead where were talking about Sutton. Burton, and the Hatten, at some point i think all yo canucks all think alike. remember im married to one. PS does any one know what happen to the Hattini?
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
Feb 23, 2006 - 10:21pm PT
"at some point i think all yo canucks all think alike..."

Beer, sex, crabs, and climbing. What else is there? [And pul-LEE-yuz don't say "hockey"! Sheesh.]
TradIsGood

Trad climber
Gunks end of country
Feb 23, 2006 - 10:50pm PT
Lookin up cracks belongs in that group, I think.

That is the sweetest crack picture I have seen (on this forum).

Seeing those big cams set next to each other does not exactly make one want to go out and buy one (IM stupid O).
rmuir

Social climber
Claremont, CA
Feb 23, 2006 - 11:50pm PT
Cosmos. Second ascent (first continuous) by Robs Muir and Jack Roberts. Third was done by Dale Bard and company.
Wonder

climber
WA
Feb 23, 2006 - 11:56pm PT
Can you believe they changed the rules in the NHL. Lame.
Quaken

Trad climber
Las Vegas
Jun 18, 2007 - 06:23pm PT
got a few 2nd's to add to the list

South Seas - Dana Eubanks/Charlie Kable 1982
Sheep Ranch - Charlie Kable/Dana Eubanks 1987
Heavy Metal - Dana Eubanks/Charlie Kable 2006
WBraun

climber
Jun 20, 2007 - 12:05am PT
Huh?

Mike and Dale got rescued at the Tonsillectomy traverse?

Is that true?

I don't ever remember that ....
Tom

Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
Jun 20, 2007 - 05:19am PT
Seeing those big cams set next to each other does not exactly make one want to go out and buy one (IM stupid O).

LOL

I'll try to find a photo that shows two massively overloaded pigs (and 50 lbs of firewood) docked to the "big cams set next to each other".

It's common practice to use more than one cam for a belay, especially a hauling anchor. And especially if you're going to rip the available bolts out of the wall with a crowbar 8-)



EDIT: Here's a brighter view up the Bermuda Dunes offwidth to the Alcove:



Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jun 20, 2007 - 11:56am PT
The late and great Katherine Freer was Todd's partner on the epic second ascent of ZM. Bridwell and company used several extralong ropes on the FA which completely screwed everybody up. Extra belay stances had to be put in on the repeat which they were not anticipating and it lead to a mess and a completely unnecessary ordeal for all involved.
Gagner

climber
Boulder
Jun 21, 2007 - 05:43pm PT
Barbella and Avery did do Son of Heart - I thought it was the 3rd or 4th.

Another 2nd:
Myself & Eric Brand, Lost in America with the original Astro Lasso, and fat man ascent - too much beer

Edit: Someone asked about Rick Lovelace - after our little Baffin epic Rick pretty much gave up climbing. He's still living in Tahoe - was hunting and kayaking the last time we spoke...
BriGuy

Trad climber
SL,UT
Apr 18, 2009 - 12:34pm PT
anyone know who did the 2nd ascent of mescalito?
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Jan 16, 2011 - 04:35pm PT
that's a good link freerider, it's got Jaybro's Balch Camp Flake route, and a couple Pat Brennan postings.

enjoyed the read, thx.
ElCapPirate

Big Wall climber
California
Jun 5, 2012 - 08:16pm PT
Wow! This was/is an awesome thread. Love the banter between some of the greats.

Can anyone confirm the 2nd ascent of Heartland? Just curious...
squishy

Mountain climber
Jun 5, 2012 - 09:48pm PT
epic bump!
the kid

Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
Jun 6, 2012 - 10:15am PT
a couple of my base routes have not been repeated.
General Dynamics is a 2 pitch route (unfinished-was going to Sickel ledge) and is my first 5.13 FA i did in yosemite- 1987- ground up, no hang dogging with Dave Hatchett. I led the first pitch (crux) he led the second (super wicked 5.11 slab pitch).

the FA just to the left has no repeats as well- Duty Now For the Future- 5.12+. This is the ONLY route where i whipped off a stance while drilling. Whipped off it a few times until i got the bolt in..

Just to the right of these is a mixed 1 pitch route called Base Hits- 5.12 which i did with Ken Ariza and we had a really good time climbing it..
Avery

climber
NZ
Jun 13, 2014 - 08:35pm PT
Has "Nightmare on California Street" been repeated?
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Jun 13, 2014 - 08:53pm PT
Almost. In 2009, Brian McCray repeated the first 14 pitches (solo), but did not do the last 3.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/885684/nightmare-on-california-street
ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber
extraordinaire
Jun 13, 2014 - 10:51pm PT
General Dynamics is a 2 pitch route (unfinished-was going to Sickel ledge) and is my first 5.13 FA i did in yosemite 1987
Surely someone else has been on this in the last few years.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Jun 13, 2014 - 10:57pm PT
Alex Baker and Eric Bissell climbed Tron, a similar 5.13 face/slab route just to the right (within Negative Pinnacle) a few years ago.
Maybe they gave General Dynamics a try?
coolrockclimberguy69

climber
Jun 14, 2014 - 12:40pm PT
Didn't a british guy solo Nightmare on California St? I swear I remember reading a TR about it here on ST. He did Reticent with his buddy and made a pretty funny video for it, I think? I can't find the TR in search. Maybe I'm in the early stages of dementia?

edit: I was wrong. he did Ned's Excellent Adventure. for some reason i thought he did Nightmare.

http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Neds-Excellent-Adventure/t11834n.html
Alex Baker

climber
Portland
Jun 14, 2014 - 01:12pm PT
Clint we didn't end up giving General Dynamics a shot, but it certainly is intriguing. I'm not even sure we correctly identified it. Eric probably has the skills to do it and he lives close these days. All we need to do is egg him on a bit.

I would love to hear any stories about repeating GD.

AB
Ian Parsons

climber
UK, England
Jun 14, 2014 - 04:25pm PT
[quote]...some guy from Mammoth and a Swiss.[/quote

I recall a conversation in 1978 with Maurice Cochand from Yverdon; he recounted how he and Dave Stutzman were pulled off Son of Heart after running out of just about everything - but particularly water.
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