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Fly'n Brian
Big Wall climber
Las Vegas
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 20, 2009 - 11:41pm PT
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does anyone have a topo of this route?
also, still looking for a good big hook. i.e. captain hook, forest gardner made a couple good ones as well.....
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
North of the Owyhees
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Jun 21, 2009 - 12:42am PT
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It should be in the obscurities, Brian.....Search here.
I have one, also.
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Fly'n Brian
Big Wall climber
Las Vegas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 21, 2009 - 07:01pm PT
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THANK YOU. warren gave me one long time ago but dont know where it went.....
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
North of the Owyhees
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Jun 21, 2009 - 07:42pm PT
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Oh, found it did you? Cool.
Yeah, that's Warren's. From the original.
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Jun 21, 2009 - 10:49pm PT
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ppsssshhhhhh.....easy.
;)
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altieboo
Boulder climber
Livermore, Ca
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I saw Brian today at the bridge. He had just gotten down from soloing NOCS. Seemed pretty stoked and pretty humble. I was pretty stoked and humbled to meet him. Good job Brian.
He showed me roughly were the route goes up threw the diorite encompassing the NA wall. Then up threw the cyclops eye and out some crazy roofs. F*#king bad ass.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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^^^^Badass, That guy Fu*&ing Rocks!
Big stones to head up there alone, Big psych!
Way to go Brian!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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gotta be a total mind warp
nice on ya
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Burt
Trad climber
Las Vegas, Nv
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Been waiting till he got down to put my 2cents in... Talked to Brian a lot while he was on the wall. He told me that the route was leaps and bounds harder than anything he has done before, and having the upmost respect for Warren and Grant. I have climbed a lot with Brian, and he is one of my closest friends, I have never heard the level that Brian was in to finish the route. Just his tone sent shivers down my spine! A true bold statement by soloing the route IMO. I can't wait for a face to face account, so for a brief moment I can pretend... good job my friend the demons didn't get you this time but those bastards are lurking everywhere!
Kurt "Burt" Arend
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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How many days?
Talk about an early ascent and solo to boot!
Totally Badass!
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Burt
Trad climber
Las Vegas, Nv
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He did it over a month or so, he fixed to pitch 5 I think came down for work then went back up and finished it. 2nd ascent for sure, it just sounded sick! A different level than most of us here on the taco, Brian is a phenomenal rock climber, some of the FA that Brian has dragged me up :) watching him go is really amazing. On Stigmata on Isaac in ZNP he lead a pitch that started off on really bad beaks over a flat ledge that would sent your shins through your shoulders if it went bad for a ways then instead of drilling he thought he could free climb out (Brian is a great and bold free climber) climbing 5.11+ in his guide tennies onsight with no pro for a very long ways. While cleaning the pitch I tried to free the moves on my jugs and feel off immediately I was blown away! I need to write a TR about some of our exploits, cause they are great!
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Gunkie
climber
East Coast US
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What's Warren Hollinger doing now? Still in Hawaii? I just remember reading about a bad fall he took.... Red Rocks?
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elcap-pics
climber
Crestline CA
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Nice job Brian!! See you some day in the Valley!
Regards
Tom
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yo
climber
a tied-off Tomahawk™
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I'm so scared of Brian's Zion routes it's not even funny.
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Burt
Trad climber
Las Vegas, Nv
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Gunkie, yeah Warren fell while climbing with Brian on the Rainbow Wall here in Red Rock. Brian had fixed the first 4 pitches of Saurons Eye VI 5.10+R/X A4 and Warren was in town for a slide show or something. Brian lead another pitch (200' 5.10+X) then Warren was trying to get over to over the Rainbow Ledge, I think matched on a hold, it broke, and he went for like 50 feet hitting a ledge. Brian called for rescue and got it as it was getting dark or after dark can't remember. Brian went back and finished the line staying away from the feature that Warren fell from. I attempted a solo 2nd ascent, climbing the first 3 pitches, all really steep and thought provoking, and got hit by a major wind storm mid winter. In my ledge with my haul bags it would float my ledge, flip it over I got soaked from the pot of water I was making for coffee, spent the whole night scared out of my mind. Brian and I talked a lot that night, he was wondering what he could do, I knew nothing. At first light with my bags tied to the end of 2 60m to the ground (all free hanging) I started rapping, then right when I hit the knot to pass it the gusts (well over 80 mph) hit me and set me and my bags across the wall almost 100+ feet to one side, the wind would stop sending me rocketing the other way! It did that for 20 minutes straight. Finally subsided and I rapped to the ground and collapsed, I slept right there, in my harness just glad to be on tera firma. Ammon and Gabe grabbed the second ascent a few years ago.
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Super proud!!!!
This route has gone without a 2nd ascent for 12 years. A true hard aid testpiece. From what I recall, there is a potential groundfall from over 300' up! Yikes!
The "Thou shall not drill" pitch, out the roof looked stout when I checked it out from the Sea Of Dreams a couple of years ago. No bolts, & looked like tough nailing & heading.
And all of this done solo!
McCray is back & badder than ever.
Well done!
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jack herer
climber
veneta, or
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this is just too hardcore to be on the second page! bump
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Scout 2
Trad climber
Placerville
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Bad ARssss man way to send. I scouted that thing hard last year. Nice job
D
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Burly Brian, way to send.
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!