Separate Reality


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Social climber
wuz real!
Oct 4, 2008 - 02:46am PT
"When I look at someone,
I see a luminous being,
with radiating tendrils"
-Don Juan, something, something, Matous
Brutus of Wyde

Old Climbers' Home, Oakland CA
Oct 4, 2008 - 05:39pm PT
I've wandered around a few times at the end of the tunnel, looking for any sort of faint climbers' trail, and never found one. (Probably just as well.)

Perhaps the trail gets so little traffic that unles you have been there before, it is not visible?


PS -- "Doors of Perception" is a "5.8" route on North Palisade. Quotes because the second ascent said the rating is unbelievably sandbagged.

Speaking of separate realities and doors of perception, Nurse Ratchet just sent the window-side OW at PG SF today (I've only been halfway up so far). Said she could reach clear through and toe hook the other side for a no-hands rest whenever she wanted. I told her she gets to lead all the hard pitches next time we're on SS. (As I recall, there's only 17 hard pitches on that route)
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Oct 4, 2008 - 05:48pm PT
that'll learn her...

Oct 4, 2008 - 06:03pm PT
The only thing I see near the long tunnel is toilet paper. Have never seen a better location for that.

Boulder climber
Redmond, OR
Oct 4, 2008 - 10:35pm PT
healyje, Mike, Werner, et all:
I haven't seen this thread before today, but I can add a little to the history.

I believe Tobin had just returned from his spectacular season in the Alps. He had climbed the Eiger Direct, The Dru C.Direct, The Desmaison on the Walker and the N. Face Matterhorn solo in the winter, among others, such as the famous Scottish ice gullies and Grecian sea cliffs. In the Spring he returned to San Luis Obispo and began bouldering and rockclimbing locally with us, his SLOtown roomates and buds. He was in the most splendid condition imaginable, highly confident and motivated. Seems to me he climbed "more monk den funk" at Josh around this time, and that would have bearing in relation to Separate Reality.

In late May, I think, he set about some business in Yosemite. After a warm up at the Cookie Cliff, he and I climbed The Crucifix. I believe the following weekend, he climbed Astroman, leading every pitch on sight with no falls in about five or six hours, I think. It seems to me, the following weekend he attempted to climb Tales of Power and Separate Reality together, though he had not laid eyes on them. There was another testpiece he attempted during this period, but I'm not positive of its identity. I only recall his seasoned belayer telling me he had taken three huge, terrifying, headfirst falls. (edit : maybe it was Crimson Cringe) Tobin just told me he failed because it was too hot and said little if anything at all about the falls. He knew I would not have approved.

By this time his E.B.s were thrashed. Amazingly, Tobin and I had the exact height, weight and shoe size. So of course I was honored to sponsor his attempt by providing the "all-the-credit-is-due-to," all important, footwear. That is, an identical pair of the blue magic slippers, only slightly less thrashed. I wished him the best, but was unable to join the spectacle of Tales and Separate together. This was during my finals in my fourth year and I was working. How very much now I wish I had attended anyways.

A couple of days later in the late evening, he stumbled into the house, but was in good spirits. I asked him how it went and he told me the story with full animation, showing the endless hand jams and how he had climbed all the way out to the very lip, had made the first toe hook...but on the next heel hook the rubber on the heel of my E.B.s had torn off suddenly and it had made him fall!

I can still see the gleaming fire in his eyes!

By this time my paternal instincts had often become exaggerated in respect to Tobin. You would have to know how raw his emotions were and how idealistic he was, how penniless we all were, especially him. Each of his victories had strangely become my very own; and now this failure too. We looked stupidly into each other's faces like a literal gold medal had just slipped through our fingers!

-Bruce Adams

Brutus of Wyde

Old Climbers' Home, Oakland CA
Oct 5, 2008 - 01:54am PT
"When I look at someone,
I see a luminous being,
with radiating tendrils"
-Don Juan, something, something, Matous

"When I use a word,
it means just what
I choose it to mean
neither more nor less."

--Humpty Dumpty,
aka GW Bush, speaking abour Newcular Arms
something else, and someone else entirely,
Loose Carol

Boulder climber
Mono County
Oct 5, 2008 - 03:35am PT
LEB vs. Ed Hartouni (debate?) I think we know who kicked who to the mother-lovin' curb . End of thread .
Patrick Sawyer

Originally California now Ireland
Oct 5, 2008 - 07:50am PT
I have come to this thread very late, but I agree with Ed, Lois hijacked the thread and knew that she was doing so, despite her pleas otherwise.

Typical LEB.

I have come to the conclusion that Lois is a piss taker

Mar 24, 2010 - 06:04pm PT
I just watched this for the first time yesterday and was completely blown away. Then I watched it a few more times.

Yup, that's a Separate Reality Heinz!

I looked around for a thread that might have already covered this and found Gripper's post. Hope I'm not out of line commenting here.

I had the privilege of knowing and working with Wolfgang and he was a champion and a decent man. I can see how Wolfgang would have inspired Hanz to do such a radical thing. Amazing!

With great respect and complete horror at the mere thought,


Ice climber
chingadero de chula vista
Jul 8, 2012 - 10:19pm PT
random bump 'cuz I'm feeling a little separate and for nostalgia's sake.

Don Paul

Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
Jul 9, 2012 - 09:02am PT
So it was Ron Kauk who named all those routes after Carlos Castaneda books. Another mystery solved. Glad he didn't drink the kool aid with the others when the guru finally died of cirhossis of the liver.

A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
Jul 9, 2012 - 10:29am PT
Saw its 5th free solo two weeks ago.

(not me)
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Jul 9, 2012 - 11:23am PT
Actually, if history is important here, Barry Bates and I both knew about the lines that would become Separate Reality and Tales of Power back in 1971. When we had done FA of The Application down at Arch Rock we began pointing out stuff left to do and we both revealed to each other their existence--- it was kind of a funny moment, showing each other the same secrets. At the time the two routes just looked too modern, too hard and we were both starting just a little bit to wind down. History rolled on though and the next dudes were rolling on them within a few years.

Ice climber
chingadero de chula vista
Jul 9, 2012 - 12:00pm PT
died of cirhossis of the liver.

If Mr. Castaneda did drink too much alchohol, he certainly wasn't the first anthropoligist who did (it is/was one of the main ways of integrating into other cultures), but he apparently died from cancer, not cirhossis.

Castaneda died on 27 April 1998 in Los Angeles due to complications from hepatocellular cancer.
Don Paul

Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
Jul 9, 2012 - 12:57pm PT
Liver cancer but as I recall he was a heavy drinker and a womanizer. His 16 year old adopted daughter/wife committed suicide 2 weeks after the guru died, and his other b/witches all disappeared, thought to have all committed suicide together in a pact. His work as an anthropologist is widely regarded as fake. It's a long story, but those routes are named after a really weird magic cult. Odd that Ron Kauk looks so much like Tom Cruise, the Scientology Man. Well religion is a subject that gets people riled up so I better stop there.

Ice climber
chingadero de chula vista
Jul 9, 2012 - 01:14pm PT
Mr. Castaneda taught a graduate course at UC Irvine. Basically he told stories and answered question and gave us the draft of A Separate Reality to read. He had a great sense of humor and didn't appear to drink in those days. I was surprised when they granted him his Ph.D. I'll have to follow up on his later life.

I wonder how much L. Ron Hubbard drank. It's said that he chain-smoked cigarettes.

I wonder how nicotine registers on the e-meter, though, clearly cigs aren't good for ya.


El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Feb 2, 2013 - 04:57pm PT
Just another send.

[Click to View YouTube Video]

KP Ariza

Feb 2, 2013 - 06:10pm PT
Separate Reality as a sport route.....

Hiked it though. Great footage.

Trad climber
Feb 2, 2013 - 07:49pm PT

Cool: hiked is right. Who is that?

She'll lose her belay card for the gym though, 'cause she skipped a clip. I didn't know about the wide part (liebacked) before the roof. Hey, I sew up 5.6 that much when I can.

Feb 2, 2013 - 07:55pm PT
she's dead, fyi
Messages 81 - 100 of total 127 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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