Separate Reality


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Messages 101 - 120 of total 127 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Feb 2, 2013 - 09:00pm PT

Boulder climber
Feb 2, 2013 - 11:12pm PT
[Click to View YouTube Video]
tinker b

the commonwealth
Feb 2, 2013 - 11:47pm PT
i belayed the coach (jason lakey) on separate reality this past november. it was exactly a year and a day after his fall on leaning tower where he shattered his knee. i thought it was a pretty proud send after a year of several surgeries and barely being able to walk for a good part of the year. that guy has some determination.

Feb 3, 2013 - 04:39am PT
Wow. What a line. They don't get much better. I guess people PP the G cuz it sux to clean if ur working it? Or is the gear hard to place? Looks pretty straightforward but I know nothing. Awesome thread too, a lot of really cool history & posts, this is the stuff.

Social climber
Feb 3, 2013 - 06:15am PT
hey there say, thanks for the bump...

enjoyed the climbing pics here, and answers to situation-stuff
by ed, roger and so many others...

did not see all of it... but most of it...
thanks for the bump, once again...
Patrick Sawyer

Originally California now Ireland
Feb 3, 2013 - 08:59am PT
I do not mean to be off topic or hijack the thread, but zBrown, in the US, one of the primary causes of hepatocellular carcinoma - which is what Castaneda is said to have died from - is alcoholism and cirrohsis of the liver.

My brother Mac, who gave up drinking after cirrohsis of the liver, though he still was one of the best winemakers in the US if not abroad (by peer recognition and god himself, Robert Parker), he developed hepatocellular cancer that took him in less than a week (diagnosed on Tuesday passed away on Friday, May 18). Alcoholism is an industrial hazard in the wine industry.

He still could make great wine, you don't need to swallow, just spit out. Afterwards, my oldest brother Casey (chairman of the Northern California Teamsters Substance Abuse Committee) told me that people who have had cirrohsis of the liver have a 34 times greater chance of developing liver cancer.

Back to Separate Reality, I couldn't even follow that thing, more less lead.

Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
Feb 3, 2013 - 10:32am PT
I hadn't seen that solo vid of Zak before. Nice! Very smooth and controlled.

Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
Jun 1, 2013 - 11:18pm PT
Tried reading this whole thread but it goes pretty OT.

I see pre placed gear on most videos/pics. Any beta on placing the gear? It's not obvious to me.
Do we need to bring a separate rap line to jug out incase we don't send?

Thanks for the beta if your willing to share.
KP Ariza

Jun 1, 2013 - 11:54pm PT
You can gear it from solid hand jams with the exception of your last piece, then place the final cam from a tight hand jam and go.

Yes, leave a line to get out. It might make your life easier.

Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
Jun 1, 2013 - 11:56pm PT
Thank you for the info.
Have a nice evening.


Boulder climber
Mar 8, 2016 - 12:09am PT

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Mar 8, 2016 - 01:46am PT
All the vids make it look as though the jams out the roof are more solid than on the crack up to it.

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Mar 12, 2016 - 12:53am PT
And do people usually pre-place the pro?
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

Out Of Bed
Mar 12, 2016 - 05:26am PT
so am I the only one who tried to cop a rest by sticking my head in the crack at the back ,
at the start of roof?
It was a perfect head placement, unless one slipped, then your ears we're very much at risk ....

I Have been looking for my pictures of that since the move from the Gunks (Holey schist, 16 yrs ago!)
I made a poster sized print of a current Boulder resident,
who remains silent and aloof as always.
The head rest shot of you ,
big D,H from NJ by way of Salt Lake , (For the snow)
and there it was the super flow
of Mugs & Merril, & Hydetaka ,& Earl,
Who am I leaving out ?
The Cruthers brothers for sure... ,and so many others...
Those pictures? seems, they are lost so are the other 5-6 pics? ? ? ?
so without pictures , did it really happen , A separate Reality
(good memories of good times though)

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Mar 12, 2016 - 05:46am PT
Post up man...

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Mar 12, 2016 - 06:13am PT
Preplaced pro (aka pink point) means a failed first attempt, until proven otherwise.

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Mar 12, 2016 - 06:31am PT
Of course, but I'm asking if most people pre-place or do they go at it honestly.

Mar 12, 2016 - 07:35am PT
The only way to pre place gear on it is by dropping the nut slings thru the crack from the top.

That was how it was done on FA, (no cams at that time)

It's not that hard to get to the crux near the lip so most people place gear on the lead.

Since when the lip broke off it became easier anyways .......


Social climber
Elk Grove, California
Mar 12, 2016 - 07:38am PT
1981 I attempted it with Jim Yoder and friends. This was some time after part of it broke off at the lip and it was down graded from 12 something to 11c. We tried all day. Left a rap rope of course. I got it on fourth try, and barely. Jim got it his third or fourth try also. He climbed it straight in most the way and I climbed it like a right traverse, different climbing styles I guess, his way looked way harder. We left the gear in place but pulled the rope each time.

I placed the gear on the initial go, four friends in the roof, can't remember the roof sequence exactly but dangled my right foot until the last 4-5 ft and turned around and heel hooked with the right foot on the lip. Hardest free route I ever climbed, whatever color point our ascent was. The other guys had to jug back out. I was on a high afterwards until Yabo gave me grief in the lodge parking lot for not pulling the pro after every attempt, telling me I didn't climb it, whatever. Jim and I still felt pretty stoked.

Gear was solid with cams and pre placing it on the lead was the easy part. Hand crack out to crux at lip was solid, like Werner said.

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Mar 12, 2016 - 07:58am PT
Thanks guys. As a roof-inclined person I've always been curious.
Messages 101 - 120 of total 127 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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