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tinker b
climber
the commonwealth
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i belayed the coach (jason lakey) on separate reality this past november. it was exactly a year and a day after his fall on leaning tower where he shattered his knee. i thought it was a pretty proud send after a year of several surgeries and barely being able to walk for a good part of the year. that guy has some determination.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Wow. What a line. They don't get much better. I guess people PP the G cuz it sux to clean if ur working it? Or is the gear hard to place? Looks pretty straightforward but I know nothing. Awesome thread too, a lot of really cool history & posts, this is the stuff.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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hey there say, thanks for the bump...
enjoyed the climbing pics here, and answers to situation-stuff
by ed, roger and so many others...
did not see all of it... but most of it...
thanks for the bump, once again...
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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I do not mean to be off topic or hijack the thread, but zBrown, in the US, one of the primary causes of hepatocellular carcinoma - which is what Castaneda is said to have died from - is alcoholism and cirrohsis of the liver.
My brother Mac, who gave up drinking after cirrohsis of the liver, though he still was one of the best winemakers in the US if not abroad (by peer recognition and god himself, Robert Parker), he developed hepatocellular cancer that took him in less than a week (diagnosed on Tuesday passed away on Friday, May 18). Alcoholism is an industrial hazard in the wine industry.
He still could make great wine, you don't need to swallow, just spit out. Afterwards, my oldest brother Casey (chairman of the Northern California Teamsters Substance Abuse Committee) told me that people who have had cirrohsis of the liver have a 34 times greater chance of developing liver cancer.
Back to Separate Reality, I couldn't even follow that thing, more less lead.
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
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I hadn't seen that solo vid of Zak before. Nice! Very smooth and controlled.
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GhoulweJ
Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
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Tried reading this whole thread but it goes pretty OT.
Questions:
I see pre placed gear on most videos/pics. Any beta on placing the gear? It's not obvious to me.
Do we need to bring a separate rap line to jug out incase we don't send?
Thanks for the beta if your willing to share.
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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You can gear it from solid hand jams with the exception of your last piece, then place the final cam from a tight hand jam and go.
Yes, leave a line to get out. It might make your life easier.
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GhoulweJ
Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
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KP
Thank you for the info.
Have a nice evening.
Jay
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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All the vids make it look as though the jams out the roof are more solid than on the crack up to it.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Mar 12, 2016 - 12:53am PT
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And do people usually pre-place the pro?
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Mar 12, 2016 - 05:26am PT
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so am I the only one who tried to cop a rest by sticking my head in the crack at the back ,
at the start of roof?
It was a perfect head placement, unless one slipped, then your ears we're very much at risk ....
I Have been looking for my pictures of that since the move from the Gunks (Holey schist, 16 yrs ago!)
I made a poster sized print of a current Boulder resident,
who remains silent and aloof as always.
The head rest shot of you ,
big D,H from NJ by way of Salt Lake , (For the snow)
and there it was the super flow
of Mugs & Merril, & Hydetaka ,& Earl,
Who am I leaving out ?
The Cruthers brothers for sure... ,and so many others...
Those pictures? seems, they are lost so are the other 5-6 pics? ? ? ?
so without pictures , did it really happen , A separate Reality
(good memories of good times though)
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Mar 12, 2016 - 05:46am PT
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Post up man...
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Mar 12, 2016 - 06:13am PT
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Preplaced pro (aka pink point) means a failed first attempt, until proven otherwise.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Mar 12, 2016 - 06:31am PT
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Of course, but I'm asking if most people pre-place or do they go at it honestly.
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WBraun
climber
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Mar 12, 2016 - 07:35am PT
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The only way to pre place gear on it is by dropping the nut slings thru the crack from the top.
That was how it was done on FA, (no cams at that time)
It's not that hard to get to the crux near the lip so most people place gear on the lead.
Since when the lip broke off it became easier anyways .......
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Bushman
Social climber
Elk Grove, California
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Mar 12, 2016 - 07:38am PT
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1981 I attempted it with Jim Yoder and friends. This was some time after part of it broke off at the lip and it was down graded from 12 something to 11c. We tried all day. Left a rap rope of course. I got it on fourth try, and barely. Jim got it his third or fourth try also. He climbed it straight in most the way and I climbed it like a right traverse, different climbing styles I guess, his way looked way harder. We left the gear in place but pulled the rope each time.
I placed the gear on the initial go, four friends in the roof, can't remember the roof sequence exactly but dangled my right foot until the last 4-5 ft and turned around and heel hooked with the right foot on the lip. Hardest free route I ever climbed, whatever color point our ascent was. The other guys had to jug back out. I was on a high afterwards until Yabo gave me grief in the lodge parking lot for not pulling the pro after every attempt, telling me I didn't climb it, whatever. Jim and I still felt pretty stoked.
PS
Gear was solid with cams and pre placing it on the lead was the easy part. Hand crack out to crux at lip was solid, like Werner said.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Mar 12, 2016 - 07:58am PT
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Thanks guys. As a roof-inclined person I've always been curious.
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