Separate Reality

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Messages 121 - 130 of total 130 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Mar 12, 2016 - 07:58am PT
Thanks guys. As a roof-inclined person I've always been curious.
Randisi

climber
Mar 12, 2016 - 08:12am PT
Perhaps someone should consider restoring the original lip.

;-)
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Mar 12, 2016 - 08:22am PT
What was it like?
WBraun

climber
Mar 12, 2016 - 08:29am PT
When that lip fell off it eliminated the hardest crack moves and shortened the crux to get over the lip.

I don't believe those guys would have been to eager to free solo it if it still had been in it's original state.

Except of course Honnold, the guy is superman .....
Randisi

climber
Mar 12, 2016 - 08:37am PT
I remember that the Mountain magazine featuring Jardin on the cover on the climb described having to do a body switch "from the two worst jams imaginable".

I believe those are gone now.

I can't say. I never tried it in its original state.
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Mar 12, 2016 - 08:43am PT
Pics?
Randisi

climber
Mar 12, 2016 - 08:47am PT
This is the same picture that was on the cover of Mountain in 1977(?), but cropped.

photo not found
Missing photo ID#448674

I remember there was a photo of it taken from below in the 1978(?) Chouinard catalogue.
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Mar 12, 2016 - 08:47am PT
Any where you can see the difference at the lip?
WBraun

climber
Mar 12, 2016 - 09:25am PT
See how much is missing on the climbers left plus the hold that appeared from the fracture.

healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Mar 12, 2016 - 09:33am PT
Thanks, yeah, if that chunk were still there then turning the lip would definitely be a bigger, more sustained affair. Lucky it left the handhold.
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