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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Mar 12, 2016 - 08:22am PT
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What was it like?
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WBraun
climber
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Mar 12, 2016 - 08:29am PT
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When that lip fell off it eliminated the hardest crack moves and shortened the crux to get over the lip.
I don't believe those guys would have been to eager to free solo it if it still had been in it's original state.
Except of course Honnold, the guy is superman .....
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Mar 12, 2016 - 08:43am PT
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Pics?
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Mar 12, 2016 - 08:47am PT
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Any where you can see the difference at the lip?
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WBraun
climber
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Mar 12, 2016 - 09:25am PT
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See how much is missing on the climbers left plus the hold that appeared from the fracture.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Mar 12, 2016 - 09:33am PT
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Thanks, yeah, if that chunk were still there then turning the lip would definitely be a bigger, more sustained affair. Lucky it left the handhold.
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Khel
Trad climber
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Oct 15, 2017 - 10:14am PT
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Here is a pic from 8/20/1980, before the lip broke off. Yes, I know, the shoes are EB's ... with socks. At least there is no lycra in evidence. I came back in June 1982 to find the climb a bit shorter, but I was unable to do it again. Since Wolfgang Gullich was the first to free solo it that anyone knows of, it was never free soloed in its earlier, longer state.
The original roof of course lacked the jug that is used now, but the problem for me was the stretch to the lip. I am 5 foot 6, and the lip was a crucial two feet or so farther away back then, while hanging on two fingerlocks. Once I hooked my right toe (I don't think anyone could reach far enough to hook both feet at the same time), I had a hard time releasing my left hand without flying completely off the route.
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