Woodfords Canyon

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Messages 1021 - 1040 of total 2059 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Apr 8, 2013 - 03:45pm PT
eggzakkly! Why waste MOST of the actual experience!;-)
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Apr 8, 2013 - 03:45pm PT
I was up on the Apron and counted at least 7 sets of anchors, did I already mention that?
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Apr 8, 2013 - 03:46pm PT
Noooo... 7???? There used to be NONE on the Apron proper.??

what has anchors now?
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Apr 8, 2013 - 03:48pm PT
Yes seven that I counted I probably missed some.

2 sets above the freezer box, 1 set at don't let me down,2 sets at the two flaring cracks near west wall route and two more sets high on the westwall across from Henrys unit.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Apr 8, 2013 - 03:49pm PT
Lemme guess,, ontop of the west wall route, and the parallel cracks to the left, for starters?

i HAD suggested that "woodthin" get a bolt or two as it was a bit dicey to use pro on. we broke pieces of the flake off bitd trying it for the first time. There were those mystery aid bolts up the flat wall facing the highway- that maybe Robbins was using.
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Apr 8, 2013 - 03:54pm PT
see my post above, you still use the tree for woodthin
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Apr 8, 2013 - 03:59pm PT
Wow.. Some ones been busy.Once upon a time there were six bolts total in that whole rock. 3 on the west wall route, and the mystery aid ladder. Probably put in by the same guy. And yes i saw that.. I was talking lead bolts on the thin though!;-)

I guess those climbs will at last be safely anchored now. Although, we managed somehow without them. Trees were so handy after all. In fact, we always looked for nice tree belays! Or good bushes to tie off! Ive used that west wall bush a few times! Best piece there is past the bolts lol!
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Apr 8, 2013 - 04:02pm PT
It looks like they just bashed allthread rod in the holes I found a 5 or six foot piece in the bushes.no signs of epoxy at the holes
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Apr 8, 2013 - 04:10pm PT
And "dnt let me down" was a BUTT PUCKERING lead on aid when we did it. The thought of that WHOLE outside block falling off was a bit of a terror.. It DIDNT move until about three pins up, and it creaked loose.. Some dirt trickled down from somewhere above inside the crack. I looked at that, Henry looked at that and he scratched his head as if to say "hmmm".. Over hangin expandohw nailing...juuuuust gggggreat. I hung there sort of contemplating the over all risk vs the unworthiness of the line itself.
Then,, of course,, i decides that if Warren Harding can nail shyt hes been on then i CERTAINLY can do this right!?

I always got these images that would pop in me brain - pretending i was on some crux of a hairy new big wall route. And fyi,, its TRICKY nailing overhanging expando you HAVE to ZEN the moment that the next piece is good enough to stand on while KEEPING the piece yur standing on from popping. This was pre cam days. The leaping dyno off that crack at the top- is somewhat clumsy, and the pro will most likely dislodge or peel the block off, but its a WELCOME feel to get the F off of that ! no shyt..;-)



Credit: Ron Anderson

Note the stylin "Mt 10" boots!
edit: Allthead in holes?? nnnice....Probably that cheap china stuff that bends and breaks like butter i would imagine.. Lowes, isle 17..
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Apr 8, 2013 - 04:20pm PT
Credit: Ron Anderson

Steve Yasmer on First crux, year after the acorn fire. Crux is the eight feet or so below him.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Apr 8, 2013 - 04:26pm PT
Seeing Nujobs thread and the Czars idea for a WOODFEST, reminds me we need to do one! May?? Wtf?? Any one?? Camping, drink and eats,, stories, jabs er fiticuffs??
moosedrool

Trad climber
lost, far away from Poland
Apr 8, 2013 - 04:30pm PT
Ron, I am in!!!
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Apr 8, 2013 - 04:33pm PT
I like the idea. I could brew some Woodfords beers for the occasion. Maybe a Cat SCratch Fever Jalapeno Ale or a Whisker Buscuit Wheat and a Hillside Strangler Stout might be nice.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Apr 8, 2013 - 04:56pm PT
Nice names for the brew.! We should really do this- i need to meet you woodfordians of the now.
moosedrool

Trad climber
lost, far away from Poland
Apr 8, 2013 - 05:05pm PT
Ron, is it OK to have a camp fire in the canyon?
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Apr 8, 2013 - 05:06pm PT
long as it isnt red flag or sum such conditions!;-)
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Apr 8, 2013 - 05:19pm PT
Talk is cheap lets get on with it!
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Apr 8, 2013 - 05:19pm PT
I might try some catnip in the CSF jalapeno ale!
Chim-Chim

climber
Apr 8, 2013 - 05:22pm PT
Burnrockburn aka Shawn has been thinking about a gathering down in the fords for years now. I know of an excellent location across the road from the bridge to nowhere. Enough room for a dozen cars plus nice campsites. Can't be seen for the road so the fuzz would have no idea of our activities. Shawn wants to cook a pig on a stick. If we plan it before the fire season it could be a go! Plenty of space to stagger around and Sh%t.
Laine I grow organic catnip if you need some it's yours. Dan
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Apr 8, 2013 - 05:24pm PT
We could have it at the old road camping area, or the high energy parking area, since it wont be being excavated for rock lol.. would prefer it out of crystal springs area of ya nawmean. One of the free and easy spots..



edit : DammDan,, pig on a stick! Stumbin round and chyt! Sounds PUUUURFECT!
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