Woodfords Canyon

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Messages 1001 - 1020 of total 2058 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
moosedrool

Trad climber
lost, far away from Poland
Apr 6, 2013 - 10:27pm PT
lol!

entertaintment has been provided!
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Apr 6, 2013 - 10:28pm PT
Is there a bed in the sled? If so, sign me up!
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Apr 6, 2013 - 10:33pm PT
SLED BED! JEEZHHUSSRICE! GENIUS i tell ya! How,, in the h&ll have we not come up with that at SOE!!!! Im going to fire the special initiatives staff!
moosedrool

Trad climber
lost, far away from Poland
Apr 6, 2013 - 10:46pm PT
Everybody is trolling today.

:)))

Donini is on a roll!
Chim-Chim

climber
Apr 7, 2013 - 01:14am PT
The Steeple Aka Aguille de Dread, should not be missed. The right-facing corner...mucho gusto. A technically more difficult crux on the regular route than I be Jammin'. The first pitch is good a good warm-up a redeeming finish to a classic Woodfords ledge belay. The narrative that Milt provides should be enough even without a topo. There's 63 pitches of climbing in the Crystal Springs Area... the climbs above the Steeple are worth the extra hike, but it's hard not to stop at check out the goods onnthe way up. Milt
Chim-Chim

climber
Apr 7, 2013 - 12:06pm PT
Credit: Chim-Chim
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Apr 8, 2013 - 02:17pm PT
Anyone got beta on this little gem? It is downhill from Red Pillar & uphill from Sun Wall.

unknown crack near red pillar
unknown crack near red pillar
Credit: Laine
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Apr 8, 2013 - 02:21pm PT
It's a 5.9 I forget the name I think it's in Rons book

1st crux?
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Apr 8, 2013 - 02:30pm PT
Yep. It is a very nice short line. 5.9 lie backing is the crux. Very clean crack with good pro.
A walk off exists at the top.
That white looking band low on the right side is a BURN scar from the acorn fire. In 89, it was rather fresh!


FA Sigi Vogl and Bill Griffin, those crazy woodfordians! They had done it a year or three prior to us.




edit: At the biggest bush in the crack, one goes up-left to the end and belay...
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Apr 8, 2013 - 02:33pm PT
Can we add a convenience anchor to that thing?

I'll show my birth certificate
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Apr 8, 2013 - 02:52pm PT
That's was what I was thinking but was unsure. It looks good. I'll have to check that out this weekend along with Up to Nuthin and that delicious looking unknown 10c (FA T. Herbert) to the left of Red Pillar. That 10c is one of the cleanest hand/finger cracks I've seen in the fords! Too bad it isn't longer.

We should also think about moving the anchors at the top of the pillar (they are looking pretty rusty). Next time I'm up there I'll take a few pictures and post em up for feedback on what we could do (if anything).
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Apr 8, 2013 - 02:55pm PT
I don't think anyone would be butthurt by replacing existing anchors if yer motivated take yer bolt kit instead of the camera.
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Apr 8, 2013 - 03:23pm PT
The problem is that there is not a lot of options up there. The best place to put them would be on a boulder sitting atop the pillar but it is questionable (its big but sitting on a slope near the edge, kinda chossy). Probably not gonna lug up the drill next time and I would like other peoples 2cents on the best location. When I climbed RP I belayed from the top to minimize the rope drag. Have others lowered after finishing the route and belayed from the bottom? Depending on the norm, the location will be different (set back vs near the edge).
moosedrool

Trad climber
lost, far away from Poland
Apr 8, 2013 - 03:28pm PT
All those climbing discussions are just killing me!

STOP POSTING TO THE CLIMBING THREADS BECAUSE THEY MOVE MY TROLLING OUT FROM THE FIRST PAGE!!!
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Apr 8, 2013 - 03:32pm PT
Sorry bout that MD - how's this...

The perfect lieback is neither.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Apr 8, 2013 - 03:35pm PT
Red Pillar was meant to be a lead/follow. Its wandering and rope drag nature say its so.. Some climbs in woodfords werent meant to be "convenient" by sport standards. Ive done MOST of those routes in that area, all w/o bolts for belays. Jus sayin..
moosedrool

Trad climber
lost, far away from Poland
Apr 8, 2013 - 03:38pm PT
PERFECT!

photo not found
Missing photo ID#272644
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Apr 8, 2013 - 03:40pm PT
I remember a time, when we never thought we would see woodfords cracks stay so clean lol!
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Apr 8, 2013 - 03:41pm PT
1st crux takes 3 times as long to walk off as it doe's to climb ;)
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Apr 8, 2013 - 03:45pm PT
eggzakkly! Why waste MOST of the actual experience!;-)
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