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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 21, 2014 - 12:36pm PT
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Hey Dan, no I didn't. Earlier I only mentioned it as a possibility and heads-up caveat. I don't think I'm as motivated as Laine in that it necessarily needs to be.
Are you looking to trundle it?
Sure wish I could climb today. But this old fart, thinking more long term, needs to give his shoulders a rest, dang. (If only my shoulders felt like my knees, I'd be at Woodfords and Yosemite every day this month.)
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kennyt
Trad climber
Oregon
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Mar 21, 2014 - 06:16pm PT
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Ahh, the tweaker traps are all on the west slope.
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JustThatEasy
climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
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Mar 22, 2014 - 11:26am PT
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I'm surprised that High Caliber Corridor hasn't been mentioned. There's a lot of good climbs in one convenient location, especially if you're climbing 5.11 or harder.
Also, I think Big Bad Wolf will clock in at 5.11, maybe 5.11+, but not any harder than that. It's wide so it may feel harder...my two cents.
Ryan
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Chip Brejc
climber
South Lkae Tahoe
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Mar 22, 2014 - 11:42am PT
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did you change your cell number
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Mar 24, 2014 - 12:06am PT
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Well, it's good to know creepers don't lurk around the Fords like they do around Cal Domes. That place seems to be getting worse every year. I was just looking for a more secluded spot not next to the road.
Anyway, we found with some effort the Hand of God. Actually, we kinda stumbled upon it as it looked like the most obvious thing that needed to be climbed. The info on Mt Project was almost useless and seemed like it would only help out someone already really familiar with the area. Needless to say, I can't wait for the guide ;)
We climbed a bunch of other stuff around there too but I have no idea what it was. Some good, some great!
What's the .10ish dihedral on the right side of the hand called? Thought that was just as good as the left side, just a bit easier.
Thought the roof on the Hand was .10+ and pretty strait forward but the second pitch was pretty solid of the grade.
Thanks for the beta guys. Place is finally starting to grow on me.
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Mar 26, 2014 - 01:37am PT
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Yeah, actually the climbing around there and atmosphere was pretty bad ass. There's literally billions of routes all around.
We climbed the first pitch of HoG, then bumped over to Smearing for Jesus I think... (bolted thing that moves to the arête then peters out to easy cracks?). Above was the left leaning right side crack system we climbed which made up the right side of the Hand formation. Pretty bomber cracks that goes through a fist sized roof thing that goes out left and leads around the corner to a very thin and frizzly footwork stemming dihedral to the top. Dug it and super classic. Seemed like it hadn't been climbed in a long time.
If it has no name, then I dub thee JUDAS!
We then rappelled to the start of the HoG dihedral and climbed it.
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benkraft
climber
San Francisco
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Mar 26, 2014 - 11:51am PT
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We had a nice first weekend at woodfords, with comfortable tweaker-free camping down by the river (though we were woken up by random saturday night gun shots).
Perfect weather
Is there a name for the wall across from One of These Days, on the east side of the formation with High Energy (or is this high energy)? We found some good warmups in the sun, including an easy ow tr, and saw a lot more anchors. Seen from ootd's,
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benkraft
climber
San Francisco
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Mar 26, 2014 - 02:40pm PT
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Chim, thanks for the info. Looks like there's some good stuff there.
One of These Days itself almost got sun in the afternoon
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
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A couple touristy photos I took while going by a couple days ago.
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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biotch
Nice shots
The second one top right is the "speckled gecko" and the largest formation to its left(top middle of the pic) is huge when you get up to it. Chim has done a couple routes in the 5.8 range on it if I remember right. Typical Woodfords slog on DG to get to it though.
Shawn
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T?S
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Oh boy, W.L.! Somebody needs a hug in that last shot....
I keep looking at these Woodfords threads and it all looks pretty fun and challenging, (and good in the early season?) but it's probably not to be this year for me. :(
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T?S
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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May 11, 2014 - 02:04am PT
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Enjoying some rope solo laps on hillside strangler today, when good old Sierra weather decided to show up. Happened within 10 minutes. Gotta love how quickly it can show up. And how quickly it can disappear. These pics of the fortress were taken within 20 minutes of each other.
It ended up coming back, wetter and stronger, so I had to bail. Saw a party near the perfect lieback area get trapped in it too! Good times.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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May 14, 2014 - 07:12pm PT
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Dan - I haven't been routing lately, went to Yose for a bigwall a few weekends ago and worked on house BS all last weekend but I want to hit the fords this Saturday.
Anyone up for a day at Crystal Wall Saturday? Gonna be a sunny and warm but the wall provides nice shade in the afternoon. Do some laps on the existing stuff and maybe put up a new route. Lemme know. -L
BTW - T?S, love the 'after hail' photo with the tree. Really captures the essence of the area.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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May 14, 2014 - 07:53pm PT
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Friend of mine just got back to San Diego and said he's been climbing at Woodfords last month or so. He verified the old school ratings for me lol! I had guessed as much, but it's nice to know for sure.
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - May 14, 2014 - 08:33pm PT
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worked on house BS all last weekend
Laine, me too. Building a house this spring, fun! so not too much time for climbing, sad! But getting away this weekend to the Sawtooths and Matterhorn - weather forecast looks good!
I'll go by and put your draw w biners under the caire at OOTD very early Sat morn. How's that?
Have a good weekend!
...and save some for me. :)
Edit - Okay, Laine, got it.
Happy climbing!!
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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May 14, 2014 - 08:38pm PT
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Don't worry about it, Bill. I'll grab it from you next time we climb together (just in case I can't find it). Have fun on the MAtterhorn. Super enduro approach with steep 5.6 climbing. Don't forget your axe.
If you like it we should go back this summer and do the Dragway!
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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May 16, 2014 - 01:08am PT
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Not sure the details of that one. I think it's Dans route though. Has a great looking splitter on it but I think the roof at the top is stout.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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May 16, 2014 - 12:54pm PT
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Not my handiwork, Dan. You climbing tomorrow?
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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May 16, 2014 - 02:04pm PT
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Had a feeling you worked Saturdays. Anyone else? Shawn, Jebus, T?S, Spark, Mark, Kovar, Bueller? Hit me up if you wanna jam tomorrow. -L
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