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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Sep 24, 2010 - 11:01pm PT
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Here is a wider angle overlay photo than the guidebook, which shows part of the position of On the Edge (line in purple on the far left).
I made this when anticipating bolt replacement on the routes left of Snake Dike, but in the long hot season, it was already a very big project for Roger to refurbish all the routes right of Snake Dike.
Here is a good perspective on the position of On the Edge.
The Xrez link in the previous post has a very forshortened perspective.
I suspect the 5 hour approach will always limit the popularity of this climb, but it's right on top of the tick list for hard chimney climbs.
Chimney
339. Gilligan's Chicken p1 5.4
543. The Iota 5.4
587. Lunatic chimney 5.4
1310. Swan Slab Chimney 5.5
561. Reed's Pinnacle - flake chimney start 5.6
1316. un SS j 5.6
265. Capital Punishment 5.7
336. Pat Pinnacle 5.7
491. Chimney Sweep 5.7
556. The Remnant - Right Side 5.7
643. Mojo chimney flake 5.7
1309. Swan Slab Squeeze 5.7
1525. Uncle Fanny 5.7 *
209. The Cookie - Original 5.8
558. Reed's Pinnacle - Left Side p1 5.8
1126. Split Pinnacle - East Arete 5.8 **
1571. Trial by Fire 5.8
2189. Chockblock Chimney 5.8
2256. Tilted Mitten - Right Side 5.8 *
77. Entrance Exam 5.9 *
198. Cookie - Left p1 5.9
204. Cookie Center 5.9 R *
337. Jack Pinnacle - Left 5.9
432. Whim 5.9
776. Chockstone Chimney 5.9
838. Moby Dick - Left 5.9 *
2240. Steck-Salathe 5.9 **
2254. Tilted Mitten - Left Side 5.9
2274. Boulderfield Gorge 5.9
406. Free Press 5.10a **
527. Hand Job 5.10a
564. Reed's Pinnacle - Direct p3 5.10a *
630. The Reception 5.10a
731. The Riddler 5.10a *
1952. Fresh Squeezed 5.10a
2758. Worst Error - Right Side 5.10a *
840. Ahab 5.10b *
60. Narrow Escape 5.10c
168. Twinkie 5.10c
1672. 10.96 5.10d **
1854. On the Edge 5.11b R *
1155. Viva Gorditas 5.11c
2284. Realm of the Lizard King 5.11c
http://www.stanford.edu/%7Eclint/yos/YOSTYP.HTM
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TripL7
Trad climber
san diego
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Sep 25, 2010 - 12:23am PT
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"564. Reed's Pinnacle - Direct p3 5.10a*"
I have done all three pitches a half a dozen times or more, and led the third pitch the first time. I am almost certain it was rated 5.8 at the time '72 and felt like a 5.7. What's the deal with this climb? It is 5.8 max to the crux, you then switch sides in and it is then 5.7 to the top, now everyone has the beta...
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Sep 25, 2010 - 02:17am PT
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Reed's Pinnacle Direct is rated 5.10 in the 1971 Roper guide.
Here's the description of p3:
"The last pitch (5.10) ascends the right side of the block."
True, it's mellow for a long ways, just a couple of chicken wing moves with overhead pro at the crux. But I'd say those moves are harder than 5.8.
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TripL7
Trad climber
san diego
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Sep 25, 2010 - 02:53pm PT
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CC,
I remember the first time i climbed it, and waiting/watching the guy who followed it in the party before us. We were't in any hurry, nice ledge/view and all, but the guy eventually resorted to tension, and hung his head every time we encountered him in C4, etc. So, i was expecting to grovel/thrash etc. when i came to that point on the lead. I do recall stopping and dropping in an overhead hex/piece at that point. I might have considered continuing on by facing the same direction(i don't remember if i climbed the bottom 7/8ths right side in or left) but i do remember simply reversing sides in and proceeding/topping out with no more that a few moderate(5.6/5.7)chimney moves/OW moves. And didn't waste anytime(because it does get very hard if you don't reverse the way you are facing)on future attempts, simply switched sides...
Just thought i would mention this, and perhaps it will help someone in the future!!
Or maybe I am just an AWESOME/BADAZZ at OW's and didn't know it...KNOTT!!! Lol.
edit: I/we had the green Roper Guide, and to be honest, i don't remeber what it called that last pitch. All my buds Mark Moore/Dave "Andy" Anderson, etc. were "AWESOME/BADAZZ OW etc. climbers from that place to the North of Yose that breeds such animals...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 25, 2010 - 03:05pm PT
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You mean a green Meyers guide, with the top rings?
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TripL7
Trad climber
san diego
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Sep 25, 2010 - 03:27pm PT
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SG,
No, the Green Ropers which was similar to the red Roper's in style. It was first published around '70/71.
Like i said, it was about '73 when i first climbed Reeds Center/Direct and the Green Roper Guide is what was available then(i actually bought it prior to my first Valley trip in '71).
The green Roper, which is what virtually everyone bought and carried(unless they already had his red guide). Of course there was the ringed notebook for all the new routes that was were you logged firsts etc.
I spent allot of time hanging with Meyers(skiing, climbing, working)and we were roommates off and on in Mammoth. One of the things I most assuredly complained about was the inability to remove pages from the green/red Roper Guides,and guide books in general(and there were few if any copy machines/centers back then). I am sure we discussed that more than once. But that was a common complaint bitd.
edit: Meyer's guide didn't arrive tell about '76/77...and of course it ushered in a new era in that respect.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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For those that haven't or can't see the xrez site here, follow the obvious dihedral from the tree:
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
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Peter... isn't that site great!!??
Wow that is a cool shot... look at those swirls on the face! Some fun geology went on there. Now, if only I could spot the route in question...
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Simon, yeah it sure is!! And this clip is not anywhere near full zoomed! All through the Valley too. I have been working it for a couple of years and every single time I load it, I just can't believe how hi-res it is. I mean in many places you can actually see hand holds!! It represents an enormous amount of work from a bunch of people!
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Peter
What an incredible photo!
Man, makes me want to be there. . .well, maybe not
in the rain right now. . .
Whew!!!! Awesome looking route!
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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But it should just fine by Saturday onwards!
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Peter, that climb looks awesome in your pic!
Z
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Here it is zoomed out. You can actually see the area on top of the Diving Board now, plus the general aspect of the On the Edge route is clearer.
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katiebird
climber
yosemite
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So, has anyone done this in the last two years? Thinking about it and wondering if we really do need to bring a hammer and pins.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Maybe someone has contact information for Dale or George, and they could help?
But you have to post a spine-tingling TR, complete with tons of photos!
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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Oct 23, 2011 - 05:42pm PT
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This'd be a nice link-up with Luminescent Wall for Honn Solo.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Dec 22, 2011 - 01:12am PT
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get on it bump!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 30, 2012 - 08:28pm PT
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Doggin' Dogtown again fer snapshots!
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the goat
climber
north central WA
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Mar 30, 2012 - 09:27pm PT
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Thanks for bumpin Steve, I'd love to see a shot of this climb. Right up there with my fascination of Southern Belle.
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stunewberry
Trad climber
Spokane, WA
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Mar 30, 2012 - 10:55pm PT
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The "swirls" mentioned on the previous page very small ridges highlighted by the sun angle. They form when the exfoliation sheets spall off. A lot like when you (or someone who knows how) makes an arrowhead in obsidian. Just a few orders of magnitude larger.
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