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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Nov 30, 2009 - 09:47pm PT
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Dogtown to the rescue!
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nutjob
Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
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Nov 30, 2009 - 10:15pm PT
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Add another vote to the "I really want to see these pictures" category. I've perused that topo a time or two, with the words "some day" on my lips.
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Fuzzywuzzy
climber
suspendedhappynation
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I remember Dale saying at one point it was right "on-the-edge" = tremendous exposure.
Had dinner with the two remaining Bards last week. That look is still in Dale's eyes. He was doing great.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 29, 2009 - 12:06pm PT
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Bump for the money shots!!!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 9, 2010 - 01:45pm PT
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Gotcha Dog!!!
Kick down those OTE pics, Dude!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 29, 2010 - 01:28pm PT
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I'm still Doggin' ya, Dog!!!
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slabbo
Trad climber
fort garland, colo
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May 29, 2010 - 02:53pm PT
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Wasn't the rumor that you needed to bring a pistol for this route 'cause the snakes were so big in the flare ???? !!!!
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TripL7
Trad climber
san diego
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May 29, 2010 - 03:32pm PT
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I vaguely recall George telling me that they were scared to death(something to that effect)secondary to the lack of pro and the abundance of exposure.
Of course now a days with all the wide cam sh#t...
EDIT: Meyers was one of the boldest dudes i new and of course that goes for Dale without saying...
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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May 29, 2010 - 04:11pm PT
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If those two were scared, I probably have no business there.....
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TripL7
Trad climber
san diego
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May 29, 2010 - 05:00pm PT
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survival!
Like i was alluding to, you could probably protect it well with today's pro...
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TripL7
Trad climber
san diego
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May 29, 2010 - 09:14pm PT
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I don't specifically remember him admitting that they were scared...he might have.
He might have just scared the sh#t out of me, and then asked me if i wanted to go and do it. I could never tell if he was serious or just messing with my head...probably both.
Which reminds me of a story...
George drove a V-dub van, and i would occasionally join him on an excursion to Bishop from Mammoth. First thing he would do was peel off a four or five foot length of dental floss(this was for his upper teeth)wrap one side around his left hand, then shift it into first gear and we were off. Steering with his knees, elbows when necessary. An occasional shifting of gears was about the only time he used his hands.
The highlight of the trip was Cadillac Curve(he took the side/frontage roads)at top speed. You might ask, how fast can a VW bus go? To damn fast, especially down hill while the driver is flossing his teeth and constantly checking the rear view mirror to see how his teeth are looking.
And then the whole process would begin again on the ride back. Peel off another 4-5 ft. of dental floss for his lower teeth...
The return trip being the hairiest.
Cadillac Curve was the highlight. With the passenger sitting on the right side, peering down the two-three hundred foot scree embankment. And there at the bottom of the canyon, amongst the variously displaced wrecks was the '59 Caddie for which the curve got its name. George giving it everything the van had on the swerving approach and downhill run pass C.C.
Did i mention that he would start the whole adventure with "The last time I did it in...so many minutes"(Mammoth to Bishop/Bishop to Mammoth)letting you know that he was intending on beating his previous record.
Rarely a word was spoken in between. George preoccupied with his teeth, and me acting nonchalant, as if i was oblivious to the whole charade...
There were never any dull moments on the ride to Bishop and back...it was definitely "on the edge"!!
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TripL7
Trad climber
san diego
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May 31, 2010 - 04:21pm PT
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survival- "if those two were scared, I probably have no business there..."
But that would be all the more reason to go and do it!
EDIT: Thirty five years and only one ascent(2nd?). What a bunch of Chicken Shitz!
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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May 31, 2010 - 08:18pm PT
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I sure wish Bruce D. (Dogtown) would post up those pics of the 2nd ascent sometime soon.
JL
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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May 31, 2010 - 09:56pm PT
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Largo wants pics- how can anyone refuse?
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nutjob
Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
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So what might the "Road to 'On the Edge'" look like?
What are some more accessible hard 5.10 flared chimneys?
Silent Line has some funky runnel things that can be attacked chimney style....
Maybe some photos or a modern reconnoiter can gather data for building an "On the Edge" simulator in Gary, Scuffy, or Zanderland?
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
climber
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Aug 10, 2010 - 05:24pm PT
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Now that there's a trail to the Diving Board maybe this rig will see more action . P.S. Dogtown - come out of hiding and kick down the pics for crying out loud .
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TripL7
Trad climber
san diego
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Aug 10, 2010 - 07:18pm PT
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Like someone already mentioned, JD perhaps, get your technique down and Generator Crack wired. First right side in, then left side in, then laps. Then solo right side in, etc. And be able to do it with a big smile on your mug after a long day elsewhere.
I recall Dale pulling up with Bridwell one afternoon, running down to the base of GC and flying up it in less than a minute. This was at the beginning of the season and the Bird got up to the crux and asked for a rope(although he had soloed it many times). It's about tech. and being in O/W shape. And Dale had/has the perfect strength to weight ratio for O/W's.
I remember the first time I did Peter Pan(not flared though)with Bob Finn, who led it with impeccable style. I assumed it was easy, because he made it look easy. You might add that to the above list of starters that the Warbler suggested.
With all the available pro for wide cracks these day's I am surprised this gem hasn't had more action. It's a beautiful hike up through L.Y. to the base. Maybe bivy there or near the base.
Edit: Ya Dawg, let's see the pics, or I'll tell another dumb/totally unrelated story(to late to nuke the one up thread)!
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Aug 10, 2010 - 11:45pm PT
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Bump for the pics!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 24, 2010 - 08:38pm PT
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I'm back on ya Dogtown!!!
Post 'em if you got 'em!!! All of us are on the edge...so On The Edge! LOL
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