Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
| Messages 1 - 112 of total 112 in this topic |
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 29, 2009 - 12:31am PT
|
Has anyone done this 5.11b flare and chimney problem with big air on the right edge of the northwest face? It was first done by Dale Bard and George Meyers back in 1975. Not very many designated 5.11 chimneys that aren't considered offwidth problems. This one has always been intriguing.
Topo from the yellow Meyers guide.
|
|
Ihateplastic
Trad climber
Lake Oswego, Oregon
|
|
|
Nov 29, 2009 - 12:36am PT
|
Damn if I wasn't looking at/thinking about this route this autumn!
I bet the number of ascents could be counted on one hand. I always wondered if the route is ON the very edge or just near it.
Would LOVE to hear more about this little obscurity!
|
|
dogtown
Trad climber
JackAssVille, Wyoming
|
|
|
Nov 29, 2009 - 12:48am PT
|
Hey, Steve
Yes, Dave Tyler and I did It in 94. I have some old prints of it I think?
Fun route with a great veiw.
Dogtown.
|
|
Ihateplastic
Trad climber
Lake Oswego, Oregon
|
|
|
Nov 29, 2009 - 12:50am PT
|
Woot Dogtown! I gotta see those! Tell us a story...
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 29, 2009 - 12:51am PT
|
That was quick! Cool..
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
Nov 29, 2009 - 01:34am PT
|
thought about it during this time of OffWidthness, don't know anyone in the extended group here that has done it... which is saying alot, actually... one hand is probably enough for the repeat count.
Would definitely like to get scared looking at Dogtown's images!
|
|
dogtown
Trad climber
JackAssVille, Wyoming
|
|
|
Nov 29, 2009 - 02:12am PT
|
Well,
Not much a story to tell, one year before, Dave and I were up routing around and saw the line. Never gave it much thought myself. We had been doing a bunch of wide back then, two years before I lead final. And other wide stuff at home. which makes the whole thing a bit more strange. ( He hated wide.) He said to me ; Do you remember that line on Half The Edge? Yeah. We should do it. Ok. And He led every pitch. It truly didn’t seem like a big deal at the time. But now looking back, It is a fairly spectacular line.
Dawg.
P.S. Ed,I'm looking. (Slides)
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Nov 29, 2009 - 02:51am PT
|
Post up post haste, Dawg!
The cmpd wasn't the same without you this year...
|
|
neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
|
|
|
Nov 29, 2009 - 10:16am PT
|
hey there say, ... sure hope some more folks step in here, to share... :)
|
|
Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
|
|
|
Nov 29, 2009 - 10:57am PT
|
Shipley & Stu Ritchey did it in the 80's.
Yielded the standard Walt thriller-tell.
|
|
Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
|
|
|
Nov 29, 2009 - 11:06am PT
|
I was in camp when Dale and George came back from doing the FA. Dale was of course all smiles as he knew they had bagged a significant route right out from under everyone else's noses. They described it as really novel and pretty hairy with the exposure and situation. A quality route and very energetic and creative of them to put it up. George shuddered about the hard pitch. It was not clear if he actually was able to follow it.
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 29, 2009 - 05:30pm PT
|
Peter- I figured that yourself and Werner were going to be the only responding parties on this one especially given the novelty of this particular line. Sounds like a half dozen ascents is pretty likely!
Any need for the pitons listed in the posted description or are they fixed?
|
|
SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
|
|
|
Nov 29, 2009 - 05:32pm PT
|
Yeah, Dogtown, get them pictures up!!!!!!
We want more!!!!!!
|
|
Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
|
|
|
Nov 30, 2009 - 10:37am PT
|
Bump!!!
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Nov 30, 2009 - 10:43am PT
|
Looks like a job for trhe BAWC!
If we can push our walkers that far!
|
|
Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
|
|
|
Nov 30, 2009 - 12:24pm PT
|
Jay,
I don't think this is actually an offwidth. I am remembering it was more wild flare and strenuous and complex. Maybe a small crack in the back. Not sure. Somebody contact Dale or George.
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 30, 2009 - 12:30pm PT
|
Mountain #31 and Ascent have it in its own category which is part of the allure. We should be able to check it out here pretty soon.
Got Stealth rubber on that walker there Seeker?!?
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Nov 30, 2009 - 01:35pm PT
|
I'm a gonna jump down the biggest goddman hole any body's been in- in a stealth suit.
I'm not a strict adherent to definitions, Peter, thing just sounds cool! I love chimbly's too.
|
|
SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
|
|
|
Nov 30, 2009 - 09:35pm PT
|
Bump this puppy, I wanna see pictures from someone, pleeeeeezeeeee
!!!!!!!!
|
|
Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
|
|
|
Nov 30, 2009 - 09:43pm PT
|
waiting on Dogtown Slides!!!
Bumoping in the hopes of seeing them...
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Nov 30, 2009 - 09:47pm PT
|
Dogtown to the rescue!
|
|
nutjob
Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
|
|
|
Nov 30, 2009 - 10:15pm PT
|
Add another vote to the "I really want to see these pictures" category. I've perused that topo a time or two, with the words "some day" on my lips.
|
|
Fuzzywuzzy
climber
suspendedhappynation
|
|
I remember Dale saying at one point it was right "on-the-edge" = tremendous exposure.
Had dinner with the two remaining Bards last week. That look is still in Dale's eyes. He was doing great.
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 29, 2009 - 12:06pm PT
|
Bump for the money shots!!!
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - May 9, 2010 - 01:45pm PT
|
Gotcha Dog!!!
Kick down those OTE pics, Dude!
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - May 29, 2010 - 01:28pm PT
|
I'm still Doggin' ya, Dog!!!
|
|
slabbo
Trad climber
fort garland, colo
|
|
|
May 29, 2010 - 02:53pm PT
|
Wasn't the rumor that you needed to bring a pistol for this route 'cause the snakes were so big in the flare ???? !!!!
|
|
TripL7
Trad climber
san diego
|
|
|
May 29, 2010 - 03:32pm PT
|
I vaguely recall George telling me that they were scared to death(something to that effect)secondary to the lack of pro and the abundance of exposure.
Of course now a days with all the wide cam sh#t...
EDIT: Meyers was one of the boldest dudes i new and of course that goes for Dale without saying...
|
|
survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
|
|
|
May 29, 2010 - 04:11pm PT
|
If those two were scared, I probably have no business there.....
|
|
TripL7
Trad climber
san diego
|
|
|
May 29, 2010 - 05:00pm PT
|
survival!
Like i was alluding to, you could probably protect it well with today's pro...
|
|
TripL7
Trad climber
san diego
|
|
|
May 29, 2010 - 09:14pm PT
|
I don't specifically remember him admitting that they were scared...he might have.
He might have just scared the sh#t out of me, and then asked me if i wanted to go and do it. I could never tell if he was serious or just messing with my head...probably both.
Which reminds me of a story...
George drove a V-dub van, and i would occasionally join him on an excursion to Bishop from Mammoth. First thing he would do was peel off a four or five foot length of dental floss(this was for his upper teeth)wrap one side around his left hand, then shift it into first gear and we were off. Steering with his knees, elbows when necessary. An occasional shifting of gears was about the only time he used his hands.
The highlight of the trip was Cadillac Curve(he took the side/frontage roads)at top speed. You might ask, how fast can a VW bus go? To damn fast, especially down hill while the driver is flossing his teeth and constantly checking the rear view mirror to see how his teeth are looking.
And then the whole process would begin again on the ride back. Peel off another 4-5 ft. of dental floss for his lower teeth...
The return trip being the hairiest.
Cadillac Curve was the highlight. With the passenger sitting on the right side, peering down the two-three hundred foot scree embankment. And there at the bottom of the canyon, amongst the variously displaced wrecks was the '59 Caddie for which the curve got its name. George giving it everything the van had on the swerving approach and downhill run pass C.C.
Did i mention that he would start the whole adventure with "The last time I did it in...so many minutes"(Mammoth to Bishop/Bishop to Mammoth)letting you know that he was intending on beating his previous record.
Rarely a word was spoken in between. George preoccupied with his teeth, and me acting nonchalant, as if i was oblivious to the whole charade...
There were never any dull moments on the ride to Bishop and back...it was definitely "on the edge"!!
|
|
TripL7
Trad climber
san diego
|
|
|
May 31, 2010 - 04:21pm PT
|
survival- "if those two were scared, I probably have no business there..."
But that would be all the more reason to go and do it!
EDIT: Thirty five years and only one ascent(2nd?). What a bunch of Chicken Shitz!
|
|
Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
|
|
|
May 31, 2010 - 08:18pm PT
|
I sure wish Bruce D. (Dogtown) would post up those pics of the 2nd ascent sometime soon.
JL
|
|
tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
|
|
|
May 31, 2010 - 09:56pm PT
|
Largo wants pics- how can anyone refuse?
|
|
nutjob
Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
|
|
So what might the "Road to 'On the Edge'" look like?
What are some more accessible hard 5.10 flared chimneys?
Silent Line has some funky runnel things that can be attacked chimney style....
Maybe some photos or a modern reconnoiter can gather data for building an "On the Edge" simulator in Gary, Scuffy, or Zanderland?
|
|
ß Î Ø T Ç H
climber
|
|
|
Aug 10, 2010 - 05:24pm PT
|
Now that there's a trail to the Diving Board maybe this rig will see more action . P.S. Dogtown - come out of hiding and kick down the pics for crying out loud .
|
|
TripL7
Trad climber
san diego
|
|
|
Aug 10, 2010 - 07:18pm PT
|
Like someone already mentioned, JD perhaps, get your technique down and Generator Crack wired. First right side in, then left side in, then laps. Then solo right side in, etc. And be able to do it with a big smile on your mug after a long day elsewhere.
I recall Dale pulling up with Bridwell one afternoon, running down to the base of GC and flying up it in less than a minute. This was at the beginning of the season and the Bird got up to the crux and asked for a rope(although he had soloed it many times). It's about tech. and being in O/W shape. And Dale had/has the perfect strength to weight ratio for O/W's.
I remember the first time I did Peter Pan(not flared though)with Bob Finn, who led it with impeccable style. I assumed it was easy, because he made it look easy. You might add that to the above list of starters that the Warbler suggested.
With all the available pro for wide cracks these day's I am surprised this gem hasn't had more action. It's a beautiful hike up through L.Y. to the base. Maybe bivy there or near the base.
Edit: Ya Dawg, let's see the pics, or I'll tell another dumb/totally unrelated story(to late to nuke the one up thread)!
|
|
Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
|
|
|
Aug 10, 2010 - 11:45pm PT
|
Bump for the pics!
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 24, 2010 - 08:38pm PT
|
I'm back on ya Dogtown!!!
Post 'em if you got 'em!!! All of us are on the edge...so On The Edge! LOL
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
|
Sep 24, 2010 - 11:01pm PT
|
Here is a wider angle overlay photo than the guidebook, which shows part of the position of On the Edge (line in purple on the far left).
I made this when anticipating bolt replacement on the routes left of Snake Dike, but in the long hot season, it was already a very big project for Roger to refurbish all the routes right of Snake Dike.
Here is a good perspective on the position of On the Edge.
The Xrez link in the previous post has a very forshortened perspective.
I suspect the 5 hour approach will always limit the popularity of this climb, but it's right on top of the tick list for hard chimney climbs.
Chimney
339. Gilligan's Chicken p1 5.4
543. The Iota 5.4
587. Lunatic chimney 5.4
1310. Swan Slab Chimney 5.5
561. Reed's Pinnacle - flake chimney start 5.6
1316. un SS j 5.6
265. Capital Punishment 5.7
336. Pat Pinnacle 5.7
491. Chimney Sweep 5.7
556. The Remnant - Right Side 5.7
643. Mojo chimney flake 5.7
1309. Swan Slab Squeeze 5.7
1525. Uncle Fanny 5.7 *
209. The Cookie - Original 5.8
558. Reed's Pinnacle - Left Side p1 5.8
1126. Split Pinnacle - East Arete 5.8 **
1571. Trial by Fire 5.8
2189. Chockblock Chimney 5.8
2256. Tilted Mitten - Right Side 5.8 *
77. Entrance Exam 5.9 *
198. Cookie - Left p1 5.9
204. Cookie Center 5.9 R *
337. Jack Pinnacle - Left 5.9
432. Whim 5.9
776. Chockstone Chimney 5.9
838. Moby Dick - Left 5.9 *
2240. Steck-Salathe 5.9 **
2254. Tilted Mitten - Left Side 5.9
2274. Boulderfield Gorge 5.9
406. Free Press 5.10a **
527. Hand Job 5.10a
564. Reed's Pinnacle - Direct p3 5.10a *
630. The Reception 5.10a
731. The Riddler 5.10a *
1952. Fresh Squeezed 5.10a
2758. Worst Error - Right Side 5.10a *
840. Ahab 5.10b *
60. Narrow Escape 5.10c
168. Twinkie 5.10c
1672. 10.96 5.10d **
1854. On the Edge 5.11b R *
1155. Viva Gorditas 5.11c
2284. Realm of the Lizard King 5.11c
http://www.stanford.edu/%7Eclint/yos/YOSTYP.HTM
|
|
TripL7
Trad climber
san diego
|
|
|
Sep 25, 2010 - 12:23am PT
|
"564. Reed's Pinnacle - Direct p3 5.10a*"
I have done all three pitches a half a dozen times or more, and led the third pitch the first time. I am almost certain it was rated 5.8 at the time '72 and felt like a 5.7. What's the deal with this climb? It is 5.8 max to the crux, you then switch sides in and it is then 5.7 to the top, now everyone has the beta...
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
|
Sep 25, 2010 - 02:17am PT
|
Reed's Pinnacle Direct is rated 5.10 in the 1971 Roper guide.
Here's the description of p3:
"The last pitch (5.10) ascends the right side of the block."
True, it's mellow for a long ways, just a couple of chicken wing moves with overhead pro at the crux. But I'd say those moves are harder than 5.8.
|
|
TripL7
Trad climber
san diego
|
|
|
Sep 25, 2010 - 02:53pm PT
|
CC,
I remember the first time i climbed it, and waiting/watching the guy who followed it in the party before us. We were't in any hurry, nice ledge/view and all, but the guy eventually resorted to tension, and hung his head every time we encountered him in C4, etc. So, i was expecting to grovel/thrash etc. when i came to that point on the lead. I do recall stopping and dropping in an overhead hex/piece at that point. I might have considered continuing on by facing the same direction(i don't remember if i climbed the bottom 7/8ths right side in or left) but i do remember simply reversing sides in and proceeding/topping out with no more that a few moderate(5.6/5.7)chimney moves/OW moves. And didn't waste anytime(because it does get very hard if you don't reverse the way you are facing)on future attempts, simply switched sides...
Just thought i would mention this, and perhaps it will help someone in the future!!
Or maybe I am just an AWESOME/BADAZZ at OW's and didn't know it...KNOTT!!! Lol.
edit: I/we had the green Roper Guide, and to be honest, i don't remeber what it called that last pitch. All my buds Mark Moore/Dave "Andy" Anderson, etc. were "AWESOME/BADAZZ OW etc. climbers from that place to the North of Yose that breeds such animals...
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 25, 2010 - 03:05pm PT
|
You mean a green Meyers guide, with the top rings?
|
|
TripL7
Trad climber
san diego
|
|
|
Sep 25, 2010 - 03:27pm PT
|
SG,
No, the Green Ropers which was similar to the red Roper's in style. It was first published around '70/71.
Like i said, it was about '73 when i first climbed Reeds Center/Direct and the Green Roper Guide is what was available then(i actually bought it prior to my first Valley trip in '71).
The green Roper, which is what virtually everyone bought and carried(unless they already had his red guide). Of course there was the ringed notebook for all the new routes that was were you logged firsts etc.
I spent allot of time hanging with Meyers(skiing, climbing, working)and we were roommates off and on in Mammoth. One of the things I most assuredly complained about was the inability to remove pages from the green/red Roper Guides,and guide books in general(and there were few if any copy machines/centers back then). I am sure we discussed that more than once. But that was a common complaint bitd.
edit: Meyer's guide didn't arrive tell about '76/77...and of course it ushered in a new era in that respect.
|
|
Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
|
|
For those that haven't or can't see the xrez site here, follow the obvious dihedral from the tree:
|
|
Ihateplastic
Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
|
|
Peter... isn't that site great!!??
Wow that is a cool shot... look at those swirls on the face! Some fun geology went on there. Now, if only I could spot the route in question...
|
|
Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
|
|
Simon, yeah it sure is!! And this clip is not anywhere near full zoomed! All through the Valley too. I have been working it for a couple of years and every single time I load it, I just can't believe how hi-res it is. I mean in many places you can actually see hand holds!! It represents an enormous amount of work from a bunch of people!
|
|
SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
|
|
Peter
What an incredible photo!
Man, makes me want to be there. . .well, maybe not
in the rain right now. . .
Whew!!!! Awesome looking route!
|
|
Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
|
|
But it should just fine by Saturday onwards!
|
|
Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
|
|
Peter, that climb looks awesome in your pic!
Z
|
|
Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
|
|
Here it is zoomed out. You can actually see the area on top of the Diving Board now, plus the general aspect of the On the Edge route is clearer.
|
|
katiebird
climber
yosemite
|
|
So, has anyone done this in the last two years? Thinking about it and wondering if we really do need to bring a hammer and pins.
|
|
Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
|
|
Maybe someone has contact information for Dale or George, and they could help?
But you have to post a spine-tingling TR, complete with tons of photos!
|
|
ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
|
|
|
Oct 23, 2011 - 05:42pm PT
|
This'd be a nice link-up with Luminescent Wall for Honn Solo.
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
Dec 22, 2011 - 01:12am PT
|
get on it bump!
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 30, 2012 - 08:28pm PT
|
Doggin' Dogtown again fer snapshots!
|
|
the goat
climber
north central WA
|
|
|
Mar 30, 2012 - 09:27pm PT
|
Thanks for bumpin Steve, I'd love to see a shot of this climb. Right up there with my fascination of Southern Belle.
|
|
stunewberry
Trad climber
Spokane, WA
|
|
|
Mar 30, 2012 - 10:55pm PT
|
The "swirls" mentioned on the previous page very small ridges highlighted by the sun angle. They form when the exfoliation sheets spall off. A lot like when you (or someone who knows how) makes an arrowhead in obsidian. Just a few orders of magnitude larger.
|
|
ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
|
|
|
Mar 31, 2012 - 02:39am PT
|
That first Xrez capture up-thread suggests an independent (face) line left of On the Edge. Opps, Sean Jones isn't reading this, is he?
|
|
David Wilson
climber
CA
|
|
|
Mar 31, 2012 - 01:23pm PT
|
Let's keep this up on the list so Katie goes for the send and gets some pics for us....
|
|
squishy
Mountain climber
|
|
|
Sep 18, 2012 - 03:23pm PT
|
This area looks sweet, I wonder if there's easier passage than a 5.11 chimney...
|
|
nutjob
Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
|
|
|
Sep 18, 2012 - 03:47pm PT
|
I took a bunch of pics while sitting at the apex of the diving board a few months ago... waiting to get back the camera that has them and get them uploaded. I wasn't 100% sure if I was looking at the right line. Bushido Gully looks like more of an adventure than I would have expected. That is worthy of a visit I would say.
|
|
JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
|
|
|
Sep 18, 2012 - 04:10pm PT
|
Does anyone know how On the Edge's location compares to that of the Kamps/Rearick West Corner route in the two Roper guides (rated III, 5.8, A3)?
I meant to ask Dale that several decades ago, but I'm not sure he could have answered it even then.
John
|
|
10b4me
Ice climber
dingy room at the Happy boulders hotel
|
|
|
Sep 18, 2012 - 04:19pm PT
|
thanks for bumping this. those pics are really cool. I wonder if Katie ever got it done.
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
Sep 18, 2012 - 04:23pm PT
|
looked at it last weekend
Zander may have some pictures of the line... perhaps if he has time he can post them.
It all looks completely possible, until you look over your left shoulder at the huge exposure... that exposure would test one's equanimity on lead!
|
|
splitter
Trad climber
Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
|
|
|
Sep 18, 2012 - 06:31pm PT
|
I am surprized that this hasn't seen a SA after all these years (or has it?). I suspect the R rating of the FA would prollie no longer stand since it cud most likely be protected by large cams.
It would seem that this route would be very alluring for a variety of reasons. Where is the sense of adventure, that characterized the FA team, these days? Just sayin'!
edit: seems like peeps have developed the tendency to analyze everything with a fine tooth comb before they even consider it. Then they procrastinate it into oblivion (see this thread for examples, lol).
|
|
Zander
climber
|
|
|
Sep 18, 2012 - 06:57pm PT
|
Here ya go.
|
|
ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
|
|
|
Sep 23, 2012 - 01:39am PT
|
▲▲ The route goes up the obvious dihedral (below the tree/ bush)? Looks like there's some direct start options either way.
|
|
ragof
Sport climber
belgium
|
|
|
Apr 12, 2013 - 08:40am PT
|
Hi I am from belgium and planning to come climbing in the US next year. My friend and I were wondering if this route is bolted or if everything has to be done in trad climbing.
We are actually looking for a long route mainly bolted (we have no problems with using a few C4 from times to timeswhen itis needed)
The snake dyke route seems a bit to easy for use while the nose is way too complicated; this one looks like a great compromise (every pitch below 5.11a works perfect)
We ve climb big walls in france (not that big (400m) but it was bolted almost all the way to the top)
so the question is finally are the last pitches really 5.11C or easier and is it at least a bit bolted ?
thx so much
|
|
Bad Climber
climber
|
|
|
Apr 12, 2013 - 09:07am PT
|
Hey, Ragof: If you're looking for sport climbing (bolts), this is NOT the route for you. On the Edge is hardcore, old school traditional climbing and why it has seen so few ascents--in addition to being quite difficult with flared, awkward crux and being a big hike to get to it. If you're looking for a fun, long bolted route, check out Crest Jewel, 5.10a. Some of the easier pitches are run out, but the hard pitches are very well protected. Super route! I've done it--ahem--seven times. Best approach is to hike in from Tioga road and stash extra gear at the top of the dome.
Go do it!
BAd
|
|
ragof
Sport climber
belgium
|
|
|
Apr 12, 2013 - 09:51am PT
|
-->BAd: thank you for that fast answer,be sure we ll check it out. That was a good advice! thx
|
|
le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
|
|
It's hard to imagine what climbing a 5.11 chimney in the sky would feel like, but there is no doubt it'd be an experience to remember. What allure this line has. But if you're not up to snuff, imagine how hosed you'd be if you wanted to bail from somewhere in the middle there...
Peter Haan's X-Rez capture from the last page, putting it up again because oh my god it's glorious:
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
[quote]I wonder if there's easier passage than a 5.11 chimney[/quote
.... That's the whole point....
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
John,
Reading Roper's description, I believe the West Corner coincides with On the Edge, until a big arch on the right.
I updated my overlay to add the West Corner:
|
|
robSJ
Ice climber
san jose
|
|
|
Apr 19, 2015 - 05:27pm PT
|
I climbed On The Edge recently. I don't post much on here, but figured people might be interested in more info on this killer route! Very good, clean rock and fun climbing. A little bit of gardening is necessary, but if it sees more traffic, this line will clean up nicely! It is mostly moderate crack climbing, but the crux pitch is very serious. It's burly and the gear is very thin at spots. Mandatory 5.10+ free climbing above very marginal gear. Would be happy to add more pics or info if requested. Happy Climbing!
|
|
guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
|
|
|
Apr 19, 2015 - 05:51pm PT
|
Yes, more photos please.
|
|
bob
climber
|
|
|
Apr 19, 2015 - 06:38pm PT
|
I second Guido's request
|
|
looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
|
|
|
Apr 19, 2015 - 09:32pm PT
|
+1
That 3rd pic is ridiculous! That ramp sloping off into the void with the wall to your right...Whoa!
|
|
Studly
Trad climber
WA
|
|
|
Apr 19, 2015 - 09:35pm PT
|
I second that, whoa! The 3rd photo is unreal looking as you said.
|
|
Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
|
|
|
Apr 19, 2015 - 09:43pm PT
|
I remember Dale Bard saying after the FA that the third flare pitch was "heinous". Think he said something about a fall into space too.
|
|
NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
|
|
|
Apr 19, 2015 - 10:45pm PT
|
Oh yeah more pics please!
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 20, 2015 - 08:05am PT
|
robSJ- Thanks for posting the sought after photos of this route!
|
|
survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
|
|
|
Apr 20, 2015 - 08:58am PT
|
Obvious bitchin'ness has fallen upon RobSJ for throwing down some pix!!
Upthread Splitter said something about being surprised that there hadn't been a 2nd ascent, but he wasn't paying attention, as there have now been at least FOUR ascents.
1)Bard/Meyers
2)Dogtown Squad
3)Shipley Squad
4)And Rob With The Large Cajones And Actual Pix Squad.
Thanks Rob!! More pictures please!!
|
|
robSJ
Ice climber
san jose
|
|
|
Apr 20, 2015 - 09:00am PT
|
I found most of the climb to be of very high quality with fun, exposed and safe climbing. Unfortunately, the crux is quite severe. There are 4 sections of it. Right off the belay you have to do a 5.10+ offbalance lieback sequence to get to the flare. The gear here is awkward as you have to lean really far forward to see into the crack while trying not to barndoor left over the edge! Pretty exciting! Once in the flare, you can get a few good pieces but I had to use every trick in the book to wiggle my way up it. Heel toes, knee bar, arm bar, chicken wing, butt smears and head jams. Very awkward and desperate. Once you get past the flare, you think its over but there are 2 more very serious sections. The first involves a 2ft wide 20ft long 5.10 friction ramp. Wall to your right and 2000ft drop onto the death slabs on the left. For pro before committing to this section, I equalized the smallest BD (bodyweight only?) nut and tied off KB that I'm sure Dale Bard himself placed in 1975. Rusty, flexing and half sticking out. After reaching the top of the friction ramp, theres a good stance. Here you get some good pro, but you have to run it out from there doing fun 5.11- crimps and liebacks with tiny dime edges for feet. A fall here would send you whipping into a jagged corner. After this you get to a thank-god 5.7 jam crack that leads to a huge lay-down belay ledge.
|
|
survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
|
|
|
Apr 20, 2015 - 09:09am PT
|
Sweet. Something you'll remember forever!
Was it cold? And how long did it take you?
Edit:
Also, what was your thought process in choosing this route? Were you having a badassery/testosterone attack? The allure of the mostly unknown? Bitten by the wide scary teetsie fly virus?
You must be pretty damn confident in your skills to hike all the way up there.
Who was your partner, and what did he/she think of the following? Did you swing leads or did you lead most of it?
|
|
robSJ
Ice climber
san jose
|
|
|
Apr 20, 2015 - 09:59am PT
|
We had perfect weather! Because of the aspect of the route we were in the shade most of the day. Around 2pm the sun creeped around the corner to get us.
Definitely experiencing the unknown was a big factor in choosing the route. Seeing pics in this topic made it look like an incredible, natural line that for some reason(i know for sure why now) got neglected over time.
I led the whole route with my friend who had never climbed any routes on HD. Maybe not the best decision, but she is strong and psyched and has a great can-do attitude. She jugged the crux and had a hard time cleaning in the flare. She left a few nuts behind, so for the next party...you're welcome :) She really enjoyed free climbing all the other pitches though!
As far as gear, we brought up to #3, and placed it a few times, but its definitely not necessary. I would say doubles to 2" and possibly triples in the smallest sizes. RPs would have been very useful.
|
|
BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
|
|
|
Apr 20, 2015 - 10:08am PT
|
The right side of Half Dome is incredibly steep.
|
|
Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Apr 20, 2015 - 10:11am PT
|
Super happy you posted these here Rob! When I saw your FB post, first thing that came to my mind was I should encourage him to post it in this thread! I remember checking this thread out and having the desire to do this route. 11b flare...sounds interesting ! :)
|
|
limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
|
|
|
Apr 20, 2015 - 10:58am PT
|
I've been really curious about this thing too, thanks for sharing, now I know there's no way I'm ready!
|
|
David Wilson
climber
CA
|
|
|
Apr 20, 2015 - 04:51pm PT
|
whoaa - respect !! sounds like a heads up route
|
|
martygarrison
Trad climber
Washington DC
|
|
|
Apr 20, 2015 - 05:52pm PT
|
I'm surprised Dale whipped off of CC. He was climbing quite a bit harder routes by then, I think.
|
|
ground_up
Trad climber
mt. hood /baja
|
|
|
Apr 20, 2015 - 09:09pm PT
|
I have always wondered about this route , it seemed way out there.
Indeed it is , thank you for posting those pics and giving us a taste !
|
|
ryankelly
Trad climber
Bhumi
|
|
|
Apr 21, 2015 - 07:49am PT
|
Sounds like a proud line. Way to get after it
|
|
Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
|
|
|
Apr 21, 2015 - 07:51am PT
|
Sweet, thanx for all this - nice!
Wait a bit that modifier has been over-used this threads climbin' stuffs the stuff to bank and plan on!
|
|
PSP also PP
Trad climber
Berkeley
|
|
|
Apr 21, 2015 - 11:29am PT
|
Should I buy a fingerboard or a cajones board to train for this climb?
|
|
Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
|
|
|
Apr 21, 2015 - 07:31pm PT
|
Thanks for the report on a route a lot of us have wondered about for years. 5.11 flared chimney to 5.11 crimps, a perfect route for Bardini, who was a master of every type of climbing.
Here is shot of Dale from that same year. Imagine the nightmare of falling off on the lead and being suspended over the Northwest face in a swami.
|
|
ryankelly
Trad climber
Bhumi
|
|
|
Apr 21, 2015 - 10:25pm PT
|
So whats up when a free route sounds like it still needs a hammer and pins in 2015?
Interesting to think about the bOLD School climbs that push the limits of whats possible / safe, then get climbed by maybe four climbers in the next forty years. What kind of first ascent is that? Good for the climber? Good for the community? Certainly impressive.
Is it preferable to make safe routes that lots of people can enjoy?
Or are we just limited by our modern conception of what we consider an acceptable level of risk?
Depending on the day I could see it either way, and I guess we can have both kinds of routes.
Please don't slander my ideas, just my climbing...
|
|
Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Apr 21, 2015 - 10:57pm PT
|
ryankelly, if a route is done on hammer and pins 50 years ago and still needs them today than people will use hammer and pins. Usually people try to climb the routes that have gone on clean pro without hammer and pins, but if the route have not gone clean and is not getting frequently done clean, than hammer and pins will be used. But why is that relevant? The guy that climbed the route now did not use hammer and pins and I think the other guys prior used passive pro?
There are MANY routes out there that are unrepeated, even though totally safe. This route has not seen many ascents because of it obscure nature and because not many people have the skills to do a spicy 11b flare. How many annual ascents does the Salathe route on HD get? Not many. Why? Because it is obscure and the crowds are not going unless they see other people on it, or hear something good about it. I mean damn, there are many obscure routes at the freaking cookie cliff that are done like once in 4 years. Lack of information is the cause.
Bridwell should go retro-bolt it and post a trip report with 30 photos, topos and route overlays and it will be popular. :)
As far as is it better to make safer routes? No. It is up to the individual doing the FA. If he has the skills to run it out and does not want to place a bolt, it is his decision. If he wants to come back and add one to encourage traffic that is great too. I think there is room for all sort of routes. I don't think anyone will run out of routes to do any time soon...
Would love to slander your climbing, but you have no TRs up :( :)
|
|
ryankelly
Trad climber
Bhumi
|
|
|
Apr 22, 2015 - 07:38pm PT
|
Thanks for "Man-Splaining" that to me
|
|
le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
|
|
|
Apr 22, 2015 - 08:29pm PT
|
So cool, robsj! I get so much motivation from hearing about people going out to do the obscure stuff. This one fits the bill in spades. What a position, hot damn. Looking at the killer photo from Xrez above, it looks more like a soft shoulder than an 'edge' one would be falling over. Still, I'd scream, ha, no doubt I would. That position.
I didn't get the sense anyone is saying bring a hammer on this route, just that it's got some heads up or maybe DFU climbing. Also sounds like robsj didn't have RP's along, and thinks they'd help. So, who knows - PG? R? Maybe, maybe not - one really cool thing about climbing is or can be the mystery of the ascent.
Vitaliy isn't condescending anyone - sharing an opinion and answering a question posed. No drama. Vitaliy is good people.
Respect to you robsj and thanks for sharing the pics and the tale!
|
|
Studly
Trad climber
WA
|
|
|
Apr 22, 2015 - 08:51pm PT
|
Sounds like a route for Vitaliy to do, and then post a updated trip report and photos! I'm stoked already just thinking about it.
|
|
RP3
Big Wall climber
Twain Harte
|
|
|
Apr 22, 2015 - 09:24pm PT
|
Vitaliy is good people.
So is Ryan. You boys need to kiss and make up.
|
|
ryankelly
Trad climber
Bhumi
|
|
|
Apr 23, 2015 - 10:13pm PT
|
First off...no bad feelings to any of the monkeys...
This was the part of route I was talking about when I mentioned pins and a hammer...
For pro before committing to this section, I equalized the smallest BD (bodyweight only?) nut and tied off KB that I'm sure Dale Bard himself placed in 1975. Rusty, flexing and half sticking out.
Gnarly and awesome description.
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 26, 2015 - 01:15pm PT
|
Time to get George to comment.
|
|
survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
|
|
|
Apr 26, 2015 - 04:20pm PT
|
Let's have it!
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 4, 2017 - 06:39pm PT
|
We're still On The Edge...
|
|
Climbnrok
Trad climber
LA
|
|
|
Jan 29, 2018 - 04:58pm PT
|
bump.
|
|
WBraun
climber
|
|
|
Jan 29, 2018 - 05:11pm PT
|
Nobody is gonna do that route.
It doesn't exist in the "modern climbers" mind at all .....
|
|
MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
|
|
|
Jan 29, 2018 - 05:46pm PT
|
RPs would have been very useful.
Nota bene.
The occasions in my own career when RPs were very useful are good memories that I would not want to re-enact in person.
|
|
Mr_T
Trad climber
Northern California
|
|
|
Jan 30, 2018 - 10:02pm PT
|
Here's why there's a fixed pin sticking half-way out:
1) Most folks who would go up there are connoisseurs of that kind of sh*t and aren't spooked by/kind of secretly enjoy sketchy pro.
2) Nobody has fallen on it and ripped it out.
3) Even if someone had the time and motivation to theoretically retro-bolt the thing (whyyyy?), for the long approach/effort they could instead climb a whole new route. And everyone will love them for the new route (vs. chop the retro-bolted old one).
Now, theoretically you're supposed to test fixed pins with a couple whacks of the hammer [citation needed]. But who carries a hammer? And really, if you skip the hammer, you're lighter and less likely to fall.
|
|
| Messages 1 - 112 of total 112 in this topic |
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!