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ryankelly
Trad climber
Bhumi
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Apr 22, 2015 - 07:38pm PT
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Thanks for "Man-Splaining" that to me
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Apr 22, 2015 - 08:29pm PT
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So cool, robsj! I get so much motivation from hearing about people going out to do the obscure stuff. This one fits the bill in spades. What a position, hot damn. Looking at the killer photo from Xrez above, it looks more like a soft shoulder than an 'edge' one would be falling over. Still, I'd scream, ha, no doubt I would. That position.
I didn't get the sense anyone is saying bring a hammer on this route, just that it's got some heads up or maybe DFU climbing. Also sounds like robsj didn't have RP's along, and thinks they'd help. So, who knows - PG? R? Maybe, maybe not - one really cool thing about climbing is or can be the mystery of the ascent.
Vitaliy isn't condescending anyone - sharing an opinion and answering a question posed. No drama. Vitaliy is good people.
Respect to you robsj and thanks for sharing the pics and the tale!
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Apr 22, 2015 - 08:51pm PT
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Sounds like a route for Vitaliy to do, and then post a updated trip report and photos! I'm stoked already just thinking about it.
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RP3
Big Wall climber
Twain Harte
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Apr 22, 2015 - 09:24pm PT
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Vitaliy is good people.
So is Ryan. You boys need to kiss and make up.
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ryankelly
Trad climber
Bhumi
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Apr 23, 2015 - 10:13pm PT
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First off...no bad feelings to any of the monkeys...
This was the part of route I was talking about when I mentioned pins and a hammer...
For pro before committing to this section, I equalized the smallest BD (bodyweight only?) nut and tied off KB that I'm sure Dale Bard himself placed in 1975. Rusty, flexing and half sticking out.
Gnarly and awesome description.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 26, 2015 - 01:15pm PT
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Time to get George to comment.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Apr 26, 2015 - 04:20pm PT
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Let's have it!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 4, 2017 - 06:39pm PT
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We're still On The Edge...
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Climbnrok
Trad climber
LA
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Jan 29, 2018 - 04:58pm PT
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bump.
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WBraun
climber
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Jan 29, 2018 - 05:11pm PT
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Nobody is gonna do that route.
It doesn't exist in the "modern climbers" mind at all .....
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Jan 29, 2018 - 05:46pm PT
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RPs would have been very useful.
Nota bene.
The occasions in my own career when RPs were very useful are good memories that I would not want to re-enact in person.
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Mr_T
Trad climber
Northern California
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Jan 30, 2018 - 10:02pm PT
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Here's why there's a fixed pin sticking half-way out:
1) Most folks who would go up there are connoisseurs of that kind of sh*t and aren't spooked by/kind of secretly enjoy sketchy pro.
2) Nobody has fallen on it and ripped it out.
3) Even if someone had the time and motivation to theoretically retro-bolt the thing (whyyyy?), for the long approach/effort they could instead climb a whole new route. And everyone will love them for the new route (vs. chop the retro-bolted old one).
Now, theoretically you're supposed to test fixed pins with a couple whacks of the hammer [citation needed]. But who carries a hammer? And really, if you skip the hammer, you're lighter and less likely to fall.
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