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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California, now Ireland
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 26, 2017 - 04:43pm PT
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Oh yeah, now I get it Reilly, sort of vague though and a weird thing to be writing, even in jest.
Anyway, if you know the mountain that well, what is your take on the Kautz route? If I can afford the journey to the PNW I should be able to afford some climbing and that route is within my ability, though I need to get in better shape, but I have seven months to do it.
If I win the lottery maybe I can afford some ice climbing in Scotland this winter to help me get in shape, otherwise - weights, bicycling, beach running, bouldering and... minimal wine, hah hah.
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fear
Ice climber
hartford, ct
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Nov 26, 2017 - 04:52pm PT
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Hiking up and down steep hills with loads of scree with a heavy pack and your intended Rainier boots is a good start.
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Lituya
Mountain climber
WA
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Nov 27, 2017 - 12:05am PT
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@InTheFog, you may be on to something. The glacier no longer reaches the northern head of the bay, so another big wave is unlikely. Still, the fault is years overdue for another shift.
You may remember Mr. Moss. He's the guy who got spooked off the West Rib of the Willis Wall by a little spindrift, thus handing the FWA of the Wall to Jagersky and Wickwire. I'm not sure what happened to him after that. For all I know, he got eaten by snow leopards in the Pamirs.
FWIW, The first winter ascent of Willis Wall was a few years before our young IRA soldier's "oh-please-take-me-too" winter tromp across the Carbon Glacier. Alex Bertulis and, of course, Jim Wickwire made the FWA of the wall in Feb 1970 via the West Rib, aka Brumal Buttress.
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California, now Ireland
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 27, 2017 - 02:03am PT
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Hiking up and down steep hills with loads of scree with a heavy pack and your intended Rainier boots is a good start.
Fear, that sounds like a slog. Is there any sort of technical climbing, as I can do that. From what I have read and seen photos of the Kautz Ice Chute, it seems to have some technical stuff, maybe not front pointing though, which I have done before a number of times.
I just want to climb a route that has some technical stuff but certainly not the Willis Wall (maybe someday). I am a climber not a touron or peak bagger.
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fear
Ice climber
hartford, ct
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Nov 27, 2017 - 06:00am PT
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Rainier is huge Patrick... you'll be in for some serious bare fisted ol' fashioned heads-down slogging no matter what route you might choose.
All rock I've ever seen on Rainier is sh!t, loose chossy nasty stuff held together by frozen angel spit.
Apart from the highly dangerous rocky routes, the "technical" aspects of most snow/ice routes on Rainier will be highly dependent on the whims of the glaciers/icefalls at the time of year you attempt it. Mostly shorter ice pitches say up to WI3+ish if you so desire. As with any big mountain you can find less technical ways around icy bits but the choice is yours. Alternatively you could charge straight up and through any number of huge icefalls if that's what you wanted.
But the people who dismiss Rainier as "just a slog" aren't mountaineers, they're sheep following one of many dirty trenches to the summit. Step out of the trenches and there's plenty to do.
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seano
Mountain climber
none
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Nov 27, 2017 - 09:31am PT
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Is "peak bagger" supposed to be derogatory? If so, I will slap you with a glove and demand satisfaction. If you want to do some moderately technical ice with minimal hassle, head up north to Mount Baker.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Nov 27, 2017 - 09:38am PT
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he Kautz Ice Chute, it seems to have some technical stuff, maybe not front pointing though
I already told you, the Kautz is n00bilicious. The only reason you need front points on it is so you can kick yerself in the calf to stay focused on the slog. But, as has been said repeatedly, it’s one of the better slogs, or ski routes. Oh, and the objective danger is way over-rated. Stevie Wonder could get through the danger zone in 3 minutes, tops. The high camp is completely safe and the best on the mountain.
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Lambone
Big Wall climber
Ashland, Or
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Nov 27, 2017 - 10:56am PT
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I can’t say I’d recommend soloing Mt Rainier if you are new to glacier travel. Just sayin...
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California, now Ireland
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 27, 2017 - 01:17pm PT
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Hey folks (edit), I do not mind a slog, and I know that Rainier is not Mt Diablo. I know that it is a big mountain in its own right, did I not allude to earlier that no mountain should be underestimated, I just do not want the "tourist" route, nor an epic if one can be avoided (yeah, I have been there).
I just want to have a good time, hopefully summit, minimal pain if can be avoided, a good time and good memories. If I do not reach a summit, as the the cliche is, it is not the destination, it is the journey.
I have never underestimated any mountain, any wave, any sea, any wind. I respect Gaia.
Whether I can even afford to make it to the PNW, unless my one novel sells (yeah, and I am also going to win the EuroMillions) between now and July.
But if, and a big if, I can make it, I would like to climb something, there is eff all here in Wexford, where I choose to live for good reasons.
Perhaps Jim's suggestion of Mt Stuart's North Ridge or even Liberty Crack on Liberty Bell may be better alternatives. Something. I am stagnating here in Wexford.
But, all the times I had visited my relatives in Washington, I always look at Rainier. And no Lambone, I was not thinking of soloing. But I did solo Popo, Ixta and Orizaba, so I am not a newbee, typical volcanoes, slogs but not much technical stuff. Still, mountains that need respect.
Again, I DO NOT underestimate any mountain, I have some experience. Not to be narky, but I may be not the super alpinists some of you are, or say you are, but I can hold my own.
Glass of wine that is.
Love you all, seriously (not that kind of love), I love the Taco Stand since 2005. I have bullshitted, cried, bared my soul, bitched, moaned, seen different viewpoints on climbing, politics and such, unfortunately no TRs, but… here I am.
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Bargainhunter
climber
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Nov 27, 2017 - 01:33pm PT
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Kautz Ice Chute is a good choice based of your desires, assuming you have the general fitness and general mountaineering skills (crevasse rescue/ snow camping /white out navigation) to summit Rainier.
I've done the Kautz route twice, both times carrying over and descending back via the normal route.
I placed one ice screw on the crux of the chute on the first trip, none on the next.
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crankster
Trad climber
No. Tahoe
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Nov 27, 2017 - 02:04pm PT
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I’d suggest no more route suggestions until he has airline tickets.
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California, now Ireland
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 27, 2017 - 02:23pm PT
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Crankster, that is the best advice. Hah hah, I love it.
I was just about ready to write a long post about why I left the Yosemite climbing scene in 1976, the BS, the fighting I saw, the one-up-man-ship, the fisticuffs in C4, the egos, the talent, the fragility of people, of climbers. Human nature I suppose.
But Crankster said it. More or less, let's see if Patrick can make it.
EDIT
And, no, I was not a Stonemaster, I hung out in C4 for several seasons, trying to juggle a profession with being a dirtbag. I climbed with some… Charlie Porter the most memorable, but I kept a low profile, unlike me, but there are such greats and some proteges. I was not in their radar, except for my 1948 Ford, that attracted attention, not my intention.
I watched, I observed, and I said, "this is not for me". To each their own.
EDIT
The may be some say I bailed because I was not good enough, well… perhaps.
I was still leading 5.11 when the pretty boys did, maybe not to their standard, but I tried. But the whole C4 atmosphere was not healthy, in my opinion, or maybe I just did not fit in.
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crankster
Trad climber
No. Tahoe
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Nov 27, 2017 - 02:34pm PT
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I hope you do, Patrick.
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California, now Ireland
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 27, 2017 - 03:00pm PT
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when the pretty boys did,
Now I will be be big headed, I ain't no bad looking bloke myself, even at 61. when I look in the mirror, it does not crack. Creaks a bit though.
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California, now Ireland
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 27, 2017 - 03:02pm PT
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I love life.
Edit
And when Jennie and I had money (before her illness) we gave to the Samaritans on a monthly basis for years, to help those people who may have other thoughts about life.
EDIT
What does this have to do with climbing? Nada. Nothing. Just my ego spouting off. But are many of you better? I do not judge, I ask.
What does this have to do with climbing? Because it you believe in something, perhaps it may happen.
It is up to you. I have not had the luxury of skiing down Rainier nor world-class economists at my dinner table, nor any of the other claims by other posters. I just know who I am.
I am not you.
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California, now Ireland
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 27, 2017 - 03:58pm PT
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It seems there is at least one person spinning wheels with me. It is not appreciated. I not care if you skateboarded down The Nose, your input is negative. Thank you if you can exercise some restraint on your self-indulgence.
Edit
I do not know if some of you understand, I just wanted to climb, not the BS of C4. And for those of you who think otherwise, perhaps you may reflect again.
Patrick
NB I just love climbing, albeit I do not get much nowadays (I am starving climbing wise), my choice for good reasons I live where I do. But my wishes and safe vibes do with you all.
Beddy time now
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Nov 27, 2017 - 06:03pm PT
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way run, didn’t ya love Lituya/Martin Luther’s proselytizing too?
All that we lacked was a good dose of the Black Death! Woot!
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Lituya
Mountain climber
WA
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Nov 27, 2017 - 10:07pm PT
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Oh, and me mum gave me my avatar, it being her maiden name, so don't take
it in vain if you value yer knees. (Paddy will know what I'm on about) And here’s to Gerry ‘Bloody’ Adams having a very short retirement.
Especially liked the kneecap threat from Supertopo’s own man-child. Surprised they tolerate such a dried up old tool handle like “Reilly” here. In any event, Ol’ Gerry wouldn’t have the balls to kneecap anyone. Shooting daddy in front of the family or blowin up kids on the street was more his style.
A guy who claims to have climbed Willis Wall--but can't point it out on a photo of The Mountain that he took himself. AAJ missed the climb too. Curious indeed.
It’s been fun, but this site ain’t a place for sane people.
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Lennox
climber
in the land of the blind
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Nov 27, 2017 - 10:24pm PT
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It’s been fun, but this site ain’t a place for sane people.
Don’t let the door hituya on the way out.
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