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Da-Veed
Big Wall climber
Bigfork
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Nov 22, 2017 - 10:03am PT
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Fuhrer Finger. Straight forward approach, descend back to camp, interesting route. Long way to true summit once on top. Adams standard route is an easy walk up, boring. Good stuff on Hood's other sides, not the south side.
If you really want to go after it go for Liberty Ridge...the classic. This involves carrying over the top though.
Olympus is great (in good weather) glad to hear to did that!
My favorite is Mt Jefferson in Oregon, mostly for the scenery of Jefferson Park.
Rainier is fun, crowded, and heavily glaciated, beware of the crevasses. Seriously.
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Lituya
Mountain climber
WA
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Nov 22, 2017 - 10:39am PT
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I scored some serious booty from two Euros who got avalanched out of the Finger. The Park Service never cleaned up their high camp so I did - nice tent, sleeping bags, stove, etc.
Yer welcome.
Kinda like Robert Wagner in The Mountain? You sound like a wonderful person.
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crankster
Trad climber
No. Tahoe
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Nov 22, 2017 - 11:13am PT
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The OP hasn't been on snow or ice since 1985 and people are suggesting the Liberty Ridge?
Patrick, summiting Rainier by one of the easier routes with a guide would be a worthy experience. Come back later if you want a more technical challenge. I've been on top via the Emmons and DC and didn't come away from either feeling cheated.
Oh, and leave the footfangs in Ireland. Modern crampons weigh a fraction of those stiff, heavy things. :)
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Nov 23, 2017 - 08:48am PT
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Lituya, you new to the intardnets or haven’t you read Nietzsche‘s Beyond Good And Evil?
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Lituya
Mountain climber
WA
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Nov 23, 2017 - 01:14pm PT
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No matter, I just hold a particular dislike for gear pirates and grave robbers. Also don't care for guys who sh#t all over another poster's heartfelt request for info. You're young, yes?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Nov 23, 2017 - 06:00pm PT
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You're young, yes?
And you're new to Supertopo, yes?
But that ain't a dis to either you or that old man you're squabbling with.
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Lituya
Mountain climber
WA
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Nov 23, 2017 - 07:46pm PT
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True, I guess age and a minimum expectation of civil behavior only works when you're engaging non-climbers. Still, you gotta admit Mr. Reilly's replies, sarcasm, dripping ego, misguided advice, and tales of ill-gotten booty on Rainier are not in line with Patrick's genuine outreach for advice.
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hacky47
Trad climber
goldhill
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Nov 23, 2017 - 09:52pm PT
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If you are who I think you are...a mentor.....climbing hero of mine
Slideshows could make a little money ( maybe ) ... just a thought!
Come visit Colorado....
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Lituya
Mountain climber
WA
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Nov 24, 2017 - 12:33am PT
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Guess Reilly is legit--whoda thought? (Other than a transient poster like me.) Still, don't get the humor and was worried Patrick was being fed bad advice. No doubt, he knows better.
Anyhow, Reilly, a strange choice of avatar. I'm more of a Rainier history guy than a climber these days, although I still get up there often, so I was curious about a name taken from one of the mountain's ghosts--with so many to choose from.
http://rgervin.com/photos2010/20100825TokalooRock/original/IMG_7507.jpg
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IntheFog
climber
Mostly the next place
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Nov 24, 2017 - 11:35am PT
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Thank you for the detective work, Litaya. I always assumed Mr. Reilly stole his avatar from Reilly Moss. You may remember Mr. Moss. He's the guy who got spooked off the West Rib of the Willis Wall by a little spindrift, thus handing the FWA of the Wall to Jagersky and Wickwire. I'm not sure what happened to him after that. For all I know, he got eaten by snow leopards in the Pamirs.
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Lituya
Mountain climber
WA
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Nov 24, 2017 - 12:02pm PT
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Well, that could be it too, I suppose. Given the odds of continued good health while partnering with Wickwire back in the day, who could blame to poor guy.
In any event, my hypothesis kind of matched his admitted penchant for frozen plunder and the whole Robert Wagner airplane thing. Let's just hope he's not still wearing that vintage aviator wrist watch. ;)
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Nov 25, 2017 - 03:15pm PT
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Lituya, good news, braj, I'm still young at fart AND you've still a few days
left to sign up for my StuporTopo Reading Comprehension class! The first
week we'll cover "Putting Yer Bourgeois Assumptions Aside And Sticking To
The Fakts." The second week is "Just What Are The Fakts?"
Hope to see you there!
Oh, and me mum gave me my avatar, it being her maiden name, so don't take
it in vain if you value yer knees. (Paddy will know what I'm on about)
BTW, just off the top of my head I'm gonna say more guys have been to the
moon than have climbed the Willis Wall. Granted, going to the moon is a
lot saner.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Nov 25, 2017 - 03:24pm PT
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Just to clarify the whole Reilly mystery, I'll re-post a photo of his, from a long-ago adventure on Mt. Ranier. He posted it himself in the comments section of one of my trip reports a while back, so it's legit, and shows what a true big-mountain guy he was...
Not sure how this thread drifting helps Patrick, but... well, yeah, Reilly's climbed a few peaks, and on some of them he stayed right-side-up.
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Lituya
Mountain climber
WA
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Nov 25, 2017 - 09:27pm PT
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This MY mountain, especially the part in the shade to the left, and don't you think it isn't!
Credit: Reilly
BTW, just off the top of my head I'm gonna say more guys have been to the
moon than have climbed the Willis Wall. Granted, going to the moon is a
lot saner.
Reilly, don't doubt your claim--Central Rib 1975 FWA--but you otta know that the "part of the picture in the shade to the left" that you posted is actually Mowich Face. Willis Wall isn't visible in that shot. Photo comprehension, a guy should be able to point out what he's climbed, eh? Nice job on that Liberty Ridge descent though. Bet you were wishin' you had your K2 Cheeseburgers!;-
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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
Sands Motel , Las Vegas
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Nov 25, 2017 - 09:38pm PT
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Is this the same Reilly of San Gabriel Alps fame...?
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California, now Ireland
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 26, 2017 - 11:01am PT
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(Paddy will know what I'm on about)
If you are referring to me Reilly as Paddy, I haven't a clue what you are talking about.
Doesn't matter.
If I can afford to make the family reunion and if I do go climbing, and if I climb on Rainier, the route that appeals to me and probably within my present capabilities, is the Kautz Glacier route, as per some of the advice as well as a bit or research on it.
So, if that is my intended goal, to drill it down a bit, some specific advice on that route would be useful and helpful. Thanks again for the feedback, suggestions and advice.
Cheers
Paddy
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Lituya
Mountain climber
WA
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Nov 26, 2017 - 01:32pm PT
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Oh, and me mum gave me my avatar, it being her maiden name, so don't take
it in vain if you value yer knees. (Paddy will know what I'm on about)
Sounds like Mr. Moss feels secure enough about his position here that he can threaten people. (Hope he didn't already take you down, Patrick!) Nice website.
As for his Willis Wall boasts vs moon visits, well, as of 1979 there were at least 30 individuals who had successfully climbed the wall by various routes. Not much recorded activity during the 80s and 90s--a few climbs, I think--but I know a couple guys who climbed it in the 00s during a dry mid-summer run. (No doubt they were able to distinguish Willis Wall from Mowich Face.)
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Rollover
climber
Gross Vegas
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Nov 26, 2017 - 01:50pm PT
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Nov 26, 2017 - 03:38pm PT
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Paddy, ‘ave we forgotten our dear Republicans’ fascination with kneecaps so soon? Yes, dark humour, at best, but it comes with the genes. ;-/
And here’s to Gerry ‘Bloody’ Adams having a very short retirement.
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