Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
| Messages 1 - 124 of total 124 in this topic |
Patrick Sawyer
climber
I do not know, humans are tiring
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 18, 2017 - 02:37am PT
|
I am planning on attending a Sawyer Family Reunion July 28 (2018) in Everett, Washington (half of Washington is full of my relatives, hah hah). I hope I can save enough money to fly there (no direct flights from Dublin to Seattle, but Aer Lingus does fly to San Francisco direct - Jennie and I did that Christmas 2008) as well have some extra dosh for others things, like climbing Rainier.
I was wondering what is a good first-time climb on Rainier. And I would imagine July is quite busy on the mountain. I have not been on snow or ice since 1985 (Lee Vining ice and the three Mexican volcanoes, solo, but then they are quite straight forward climbs, though of course no mountain is to be underestimated).
When I was 14 my late brother Mac and I climbed Mt Olympus (via Blue Glacier and Snow Dome) in 1970, when I was 15 Mac and I climbed Shasta,
When I was 16, my high school climbing buddies, Steve Fish (17), Gordon Lane (16) and I climbed the Price Glacier on Mt Shuksan.
Add North Palisade by the V-Notch, Mt Dana (Dana Couloir), Mt Sill, Polemonium Peak (U-Notch traverse from North Pal), a failed attempt (storm) on Mendel Couloir, and loads of others in the Sierra, Valley and Meadows. I can still lead 5.11, with a struggle, probably pulling on gear.
So I am no noob, just very rusty.
I had to sell a lot of gear the summer of 2016 to pay UCD Veterinary Hospital to save Betty's leg. But I still have my Footfangs, rope and an ice axe. Ice tools are gone. I have winter clothes and bag. No tents, I had to sell those. And I do have good rock rack, not that it would be of use so much on Rainier.
And I would love to climb at Washington Pass (Liberty Bell calls), and even Town Wall and Leavenworth, but I will probably not have time (maybe though, Liberty Bell perhaps, Beckey Route?). Rainier will do me, it would be my priority.
And advice and suggestions? Thanks, as I appreciate it.
Cheers
Patrick
NB And I know, I am gonna die, just not yet though.
|
|
johntp
Trad climber
socal
|
|
|
Nov 18, 2017 - 03:56am PT
|
NB And I know, I am gonna die, just not yet though.
Never done anything in the PNW, so have no info. Like your spirit; you can hang. Attempted the Dana coulior but my friends crampons would not stay on his boots. Pissed me off big time that he did not sort things out before the trip. Foot fangs? Classic. Good luck and have fun.
Always wanted to do Olympus but never found the time.
|
|
Jan
Mountain climber
Colorado & Nepal
|
|
|
Nov 18, 2017 - 06:57am PT
|
In my experience in that part of the world it all depends on the weather. I was warned not to try the mountain when it had a circular cloud around it but tried anyway. Spent the night in the hut and then had to descend with a shirt wrapped around my face as the wind was blowing nasty ice crystals everywhere. Lower down we got drenched with rain. I've always wanted to go back though. The view looking out over green velvet forest with snow covered volcanos sticking up here and there is spectacular.
|
|
gunsmoke
Mountain climber
Clackamas, Oregon
|
|
|
Nov 18, 2017 - 07:40am PT
|
There are two standard routes, both of which are maintained by guiding services, Disappointment Cleaver that starts from the Visitors Center at Paradise, and the Emmons-Winthrop Glacier. They are comparable in difficulty and exposure. The Emmons is more direct, but Disappointment Cleaver is perhaps more classic and interesting.
July is your target month. Early season is better snow conditions with fewer open crevasses. However, catching a weather window is hard. Rainier takes a lot of moisture from the jet stream until about the first of July, and often creates is own storms in early season which can be nasty. But by August the crevasses are greatly lengthening which causes the routes to traverse excessively. Also, things like the Cleaver of Disappointment Cleaver have much more loose, exposed rock.
|
|
Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
|
|
|
Nov 18, 2017 - 09:29am PT
|
Forgit them n00bz upthread. Do the Kautz Glaciar. You won’t be in a conga line, the high camp is way cool, and you can spread it out over three days to increase yer acclimatisation. And while yer trudging along you can think of me skiing it. ;-)
|
|
JLyons
Sport climber
Cali
|
|
|
Nov 18, 2017 - 10:07am PT
|
You don’t lead 5.11 if you’re pulling on gear
|
|
Winter
climber
|
|
|
Nov 18, 2017 - 10:33am PT
|
If you and your partner are competent at glacier travel and crevasse rescue, Disappointment Cleaver and the Emmons are fairly straightforward. The guide services typically maintain the routes and the NPS publishes condition updates on its web site.
The Nisqually is not the standard route and is probably not viable in July. The Kautz is a good option for more experienced parties.
|
|
fear
Ice climber
hartford, ct
|
|
|
Nov 18, 2017 - 10:44am PT
|
Tahoma Glacier is relatively straightforward and totally isolated in a gorgeous location. We didnt see any people for over a week. Lots of glissading goats however.
There's no dirty trench to follow however nor are there any ladders spanning slots. The brief bit of steep ice was easily done with a single tool. Easy climbing but you'll be on your own.
|
|
rottingjohnny
Sport climber
Sands Motel , Las Vegas
|
|
|
Nov 18, 2017 - 10:58am PT
|
Just remember that if it's fogged in , it will not snow....If the fog is absent it will snow...
|
|
Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California, now Ireland
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 18, 2017 - 11:15am PT
|
So far, thanks for the input and feedback.
You don’t lead 5.11 if you’re pulling on gear
That is true. Perhaps when I get back in shape I won't need to pull on gear. But thank you for your input on Rainier, Mr Lyons, it was invaluable.
|
|
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
|
Nov 18, 2017 - 11:38am PT
|
Have fun on Ranier, although I think something like the North Ridge of Mt.Stuart would be much more enjoyable and less susceptible to the vagaries of mountain weather.
|
|
healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
|
|
|
Nov 18, 2017 - 11:50am PT
|
Here are some resources which collectively make for a pretty good picture of what weather is headed towards the NW at any given point in time. Taken together they can give you a good feel for exactly what's out in the Pacific all the way to Asia. It's particularly worth noting the jetstream forecast to see how strong it's going to be, if it's going to be sitting right on top of us, and if it's likely to be dragging along any bad weather with it if it is.
In general it's good to know how big your weather window is likely to be before heading out as, for all the people that get up and down Rainer and Hood safe, both have long histories of being pretty unforgiving to folks who've run into trouble while trying to sneak in a go with a 18-36 hour weather window and one storm after another lined up all the way to Japan.
Take note the 'Stormsurfing' site is for surfers, so you have to read through the surfing/wave aspects of what they put out - BUT - these folks carefully watch weather events across the NW Pacific as far out as Siberia and it is well worth paying close attention to what they are saying about incoming storms.
Intellicast Pacific Infrared Sat Loop
Stormsurfing - Pacific Storm Forecast
Stormsurfing - North Pacific Surface Pressure and Wind
Stormsurfing - North Pacific Jet Stream Wind and 250 mb Pressure
Intellicast - US Jetstream
National Center for Atmospheric Research - Forecasts
|
|
rottingjohnny
Sport climber
Sands Motel , Las Vegas
|
|
|
Nov 18, 2017 - 11:53am PT
|
Check the fogcast also...rj
|
|
Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
|
|
|
Nov 18, 2017 - 11:53am PT
|
he Kautz is a good option for more experienced parties.
I’ve guided total n00bs up (and down) the Kautz.
In July the Tahoma can have crevasse issues depending, of course,on the previous winter’s accumulation.
|
|
Lituya
Mountain climber
WA
|
|
|
Nov 18, 2017 - 12:43pm PT
|
Patrick, I've climbed seven or eight routes on Rainier since the late 1970s. I can tell you there is some good route advice here, and some bad.
For example:
Tahoma Glacier. Great description by someone above. Big and lonely. Don't underestimate the lonely factor--especially when among the crevasses--there are lots on this route. Easy to get spooked. Three days minimum--but four or five is better. You will probably be by yourself--but not for sure.
Kautz Glacier is usually tight with few crevasse detours, but the chute (up to 40 degrees plus) usually gets very icy by July--or even late June nowadays. Also, you must pass beneath an ice cliff to access the chute. Roulette for about 15 minutes.
"Nisqually Glacier." Not sure where this advice came from as it's never been a "standard" route and is, in fact, rather technical and risky. The Icefall route is occasionally a cruise--maybe once every 20 years. Otherwise it's a maze of seracs and holes requiring screws and tools. The Icecliff side is rarely climbed.
Disappointment Cleaver. This is the primary guide route, and if you want company it;s probably the way to go. The slog to Camp Muir is boring. Be careful that other parties don;t knock rocks down on you below the cleaver itself. Many fatalities here.
Emmons Glacier. My favorite for scenery and beauty. You'll have a guide path--but large crevasses too. Take an extra half day and camp at Glacier Basin the first night if spots are available. Then camp at Emmons Flats 500" above Camp Sherman to save time on summit day.
Furher Finger. IMO, the easiest and quickest early season route e.g. before June 30. You'll probably have company--but not hordes. Skiers like this route too. Some crevasses on the upper Nisqually; usually manageable.
Liberty Ridge. A sandbag that seems to kill a lot of climbers. I'd avoid it given the outline you provided.
Other routes like Gibraltar Ledges (great winter route) or Success Cleaver are hit and miss. I would avoid.
A climb of Mount Baker is a good technical primer--and a climb of Mount Adams is a good physical prep.
Given the outline you provided, hope this helps.
|
|
Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California, now Ireland
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 18, 2017 - 02:15pm PT
|
I have been corrected and rightfully so, how I missed the misspelling… Rainier.
Some good advice here. I am still in the early planning stages. More thoughts, ideas and suggestions would be appreciated. Cheers, Paddy
|
|
Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
|
|
|
Nov 18, 2017 - 03:49pm PT
|
Mt Adams is a perfectly good consolation prize. But I am sure you will score on Rainier.
|
|
Bargainhunter
climber
|
|
|
Nov 18, 2017 - 06:50pm PT
|
Wow, for a forum that's Cali rock centric, you guys gave some good responses!
I've been on Rainier a half a dozen times and it's always special. On my latest trip a couple of months ago I went in from the southwest up the old Tahoma Creek drainage by the Nisqually entrance. That trailhead is at ~2,600'. Started low, meandered along that massive glacial creek, through primeval OG forest, then a few miles on the Wonderland trail before heading into alpine scrub and boulders, then snow slopes, moraine ridges and glaciers. Summit day was a fun 5k' grind up the Eastern Success Couloir. Fortunately, we didn't die in rockfall, evidence of which was all around us. Not a soul in sight the whole trip despite perfect summer weather, aside from day hikers near the trailhead.
A few other recollections dating back to the early '90's...
Emmons solo...spent a cold ass night on the glacier near Camp Sherman (Emmons Flats?) with all my clothes on in the same sleeping bag I later took on Denali...and was shivering! That was in July. Stumbled down the Inter Glacier in a whiteout...had no idea it was crevassed.
My first ascent was in a day up the Kautz route, highly recommended. We descended the DC in a partial white-out, and without the boot track we would have had to bivy until the white-out passed. Made a note to self never to go high on Rainier without minimal bivy gear for that reason (bivy sack, extra clothes, shovel, stove, food). I still follow this rule. If you go light and get in a white-out, better find those summit fumarole caves or burrr...
A few other ascents that were never simple gimmies...some in perfect shirt-sleeve weather and others in intense storms. That mountain never gets old.
Skied into the Carbon in winter and camped overlooking the massive Willis Wall...breathtaking! Can wait for Liberty Ridge, hopefully soon!
|
|
jfs
Trad climber
Upper Leftish
|
|
|
Nov 18, 2017 - 08:14pm PT
|
For your first run up the only truly big peak in the lower 48 :-) stick to either the Emmons or the DC. Both are beautiful and challenging in their own right and you’ll get to see some amazing terrain that it sounds like you haven’t gotten to play in for a good long while. You should have a great time.
Yes, the DC will have a ton of traffic and is a bit too “manicured” by the guide services for some tastes. Those are both good reasons to “bail” over to the Emmons. Contrary to some posts above, the Emmons route is not maintained by anyone. A boot track does get stomped in during some parts of the summer but i’ve also seen that track get wiped out by one good storm. There are no ladders or fixed lines and probably no route wands.
The Kautz and Finger are both fun and likely wouldn’t present much difficulty in terms of their technicality. Your bigger issue is how committed you want to be on a big mountain where sometimes your best exit strategy is up and over into terrain you will not be familiar with. Buyer beware is all i’ll say.
Either way, the standard cautionary comments apply here. Your mountaineering skills should be dialed in before any trip up Rainier. That goes way beyond everybody’s favorite skill to think they’re way more competent at than they are, crevasse rescue. That IS an important skill but at LEAST as important are glacier and white out navigation. Navigation issues and poor conditions strand and kill climbers on Rainier with relative regularity. Routes on the upper mountain can also change week to week or day to day so even having an old GPS track is no guarantee. Have your tools and know how to use ‘em.
Rainier can get really rowdy really quickly. One anonymous internet brobrah’s spray-down of how piss-easy Rainier is doesn’t mean much when conditions get rough. That schizophrenic personality is part of what keeps things ... fun?
Check in with the rangers for route conditions the night before your climb. They’ll have good beta.
And if the weather is typical late July awesomeness ... then you’ll think all of that advice was silly. :-)
As with just about any moderate altitude general mountaineering objective, as long as conditions are good and nothing goes wrong, almost any fit and reasonably coordinated human can get up and down without too much trouble. Rainier is no different. In the end it’s just walking. Don’t fall off the mountain and don’t fall into the mountain. Don’t get lost. And don’t get (too) cold.
And have a blast.
|
|
Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
|
|
|
Nov 18, 2017 - 09:52pm PT
|
In the end it’s just walking
Yeah, pretty much, but sometimes ya gotta step up yer game.
|
|
Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
|
|
|
Nov 19, 2017 - 12:14am PT
|
Another advantage of doing one of the regular routes (like Disappointment) is that it will easy to find the well-worn trail back down from the summit. Rainier has got such broad, rounded summit that finding your way back down can be a real challenge in poor visibility. Be sure to carry a compass!
|
|
Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California, now Ireland
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 20, 2017 - 01:07pm PT
|
Okay if I go with a guide service it seems straight forward. But the only time I have been guided was in Palisade School of Mountaineering when I was a teen (and I swung leads with John Fischer and Chris Fredericks on Mt Sill, my instructors.)
Everything else has been by a wing and a prayer, hah hah. Of course not, I want to live so I have always tried my best to be careful.
I like the Kautz Glacier suggestion and Liberty Ridge is a classic but is it really a sandbag, as one poster suggested?
And Jim, your suggestion of Mt Stuart, North Ridge caught my attention. and somebody suggested Mt Adams as an alternative. And one of my best friends from school has a B&B near Mt Hood.
I just want to climb. But given time and money, it has to be nearish Seattle or so. I do not have a lot of dosh and keeping Aggie and Betty in kennels and cattery respectively here in Ireland also has to be planned.
I just want to climb, the small outcrops down by the beach by the house…
|
|
fear
Ice climber
hartford, ct
|
|
|
Nov 20, 2017 - 01:34pm PT
|
LR is a classic and it kills a lot of people. Part of it is you'll have heavy loads on steep terrain, at altitude that is entirely unforgiving of a slip.
I wouldn't recommend LR unless you're in seriously good shape and can wait for a perfect weather window....
I've tried LR twice and been shutdown by weather. Waist-deep fresh snow all the way to Thumb Rock sucked once and the upper Carbon routefinding was pretty tricky both times.
Emmons is probably the least technical and you'll have a veritable trench to follow. Not exciting but probably the safest if you're a team of at least 3 and your crevasse skills are good. Even the DC "dog" route has been hairy a few times I've done it with some very steep 'steps' above the cleaver where it can wander sharply to the left later in the season. But there's a trench...
Just do it... have fun... don't die.
|
|
jfs
Trad climber
Upper Leftish
|
|
|
Nov 20, 2017 - 02:18pm PT
|
Liberty Ridge is big by any comparison to your previous climbs listed in your OP. It’s committing. Up and over is likely your best option if things go sideways. It can have significant objective hazard. Views of incoming weather are often blocked by the mountain itself. Multiple very experienced parties have epiced or worse. Pacific Northwest weather on Rainier can be as bad as I’ve seen anywhere on the planet.
And wandering around at 13,500 in a cloudcap, hoping to bump into a route wand, is a big bummer. :-)
Like any significant glaciated mountain, conditions are everything. Sometimes Rainier is “easy” ... and sometimes it is very, very hard. Regardless of the route.
There’s a reason I usually recommend some familiarization with the mountain before taking a lob at its bigger routes. It’s smart climbing.
Good luck whatever you pick.
|
|
StefanS
Trad climber
Leavenworth WA
|
|
|
Nov 20, 2017 - 02:49pm PT
|
Hey Patrick
If you want to summit a guide service would be the choice, especially if you are on a tight schedule. It tough to find people that want to suffer like that and be on your schedule.
Getting to Camp Muir is a good one day trip and a fun ski back down.
A couple items I would recommend, googles and adjustable ski poles.
Check out Cascadeclimbers site.
|
|
Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
|
|
|
Nov 20, 2017 - 06:18pm PT
|
Liberty Ridge is a classic but is it really a sandbag?
Meh. Nice descent route - on a broken ankle, at night, in a storm, in winter.
What? It’s not about spraying?
|
|
fear
Ice climber
hartford, ct
|
|
|
Nov 20, 2017 - 08:27pm PT
|
Well, LR has been skied a few times. Some even lived. So it can't be too bad. :)
|
|
golsen
Social climber
kennewick, wa
|
|
|
Nov 21, 2017 - 11:30am PT
|
July 21, 2016 from Camp Schurman.
The blowing snow should give some indication that this was more like winter than July
Emmons Glacier July 21, 2016
Emmons Glacier July 21, 2016
Lots of people at camp on the Emmons, very few up high and the skiing was awesome.
|
|
kunlun_shan
Mountain climber
SF, CA
|
|
|
Nov 21, 2017 - 12:04pm PT
|
^^ What route did you do?
|
|
Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California, now Ireland
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 21, 2017 - 12:33pm PT
|
What? It’s not about spraying?
I am not spraying Reilly. I have asked for people's advice and pointed out what my experience and capabilities are so some can judge what may be the best advice to give me re: Rainier.
I never had the "luxury" of two internationally well-know economists at my dinner table, nor have I traveled around the globe, nor have I descended Liberty Ridge in the winter with a broken ankle, that must have been epic.
Thank you those who have taken my thread/posts seriously and I welcome your suggestions and feedback.
|
|
Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California, now Ireland
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 21, 2017 - 12:46pm PT
|
It is not about peak bagging. I have always looked at Rainier when visiting family in the PNW and thought it is a beautiful mountain. It is about climbing. If my life was about peak bagging, I would have done a lot more.
It just is, if I am going to save up to make the trip to the family reunion and be in the vicinity of the Cascades, a beautiful range, I would just like to make the most of it. With my circumstances I wonder if I will get many chances in the foreseeable future.
So I try and ask a decent question and get some great feedback, and then some jokers as well. Isn't that life?
Cheers, Patrick
|
|
Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
|
|
|
Nov 21, 2017 - 01:01pm PT
|
I am not spraying Reilly
Did I say you were? But I was! :-)
Of course, affected humility could be viewed as a type of spraying. ;-)
No matter, it's all good on the internet!
AND THERE'S NOTHING WRONG WITH PEAK BAGGING!
Now, on the other hand, sand bagging is another thing.
|
|
Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California, now Ireland
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 21, 2017 - 01:15pm PT
|
affected humility ??? Is that like cognitive dissonance? I'll have to look that one up. I like you Reilly. Maybe we can rope up together someday.
If I do not go with a guided service (which may be the smartest, going with guides, considering time and not knowing the terrain), I like the idea of the Kautz route, I think I can do that.
I have about seven months to get into shape, save money, and wonder what my next step will be. And it sure as hell won't be the Hillary Step, I have never even been to Nepal, and if I am going to ever go, Ama Dablam, Pumori or Taweche are beautiful mountains, forget Everest, never had much interest (hey, that could rhyme, Everest, interest, hmmm, perhaps some doggerel there).
Cheers folks
|
|
Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California, now Ireland
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 21, 2017 - 02:33pm PT
|
Thanks John but use the $50 for better projects, I am getting along in life, barely, actually most people I know are chasing their tails financially, both in Ireland and the US.
Let me digress from this thread, please. Then any feedback on this post, well, I digressed so can any of you, but I still want to climb something in the Cascades if I am going to be there.
I do not know many people in the 1% or whatever it is. I interviewed some (I launched Irish Communications magazine in November 1998, my March 1999 cover was Denis O'Brien, I interviewed him at length, wish I had his money, I think he is one of the 1%, and Richard Branson, and yes he is a nice guy, or at least he was to me).
I never want to be in the 1%, just let me pay the bills, keep a roof over my head, and be a decent chap. I have never, ever, hurt anybody and hope I never will. Keep my girls Aggie, dog, and Betty, cat, healthy, and hope I see Jennie someday in the nursing home, that is all I ask.
But family, John, I have not seen many relatives for years. You are so correct John, family is everything, climbing is just a pastime, a first world play toy.
My late sister Mary, her son Kevin has been on some sort of six-month furlough from the Marines Reserves, he has been spending it with his girlfriend he met last May here in Wexford when he was visiting me. He has been living with her and her family in Campile since late September, he has to report back in February, so he says. I hope he is not f*cking up, he says he has it sorted with the Corps.
I met up with him today and got him to join the library using my address. He says he has looked into UCC for finishing his last year psychology degree (he was with The Citadel for his first three years), then he met her, I guess it is love). He was schedule for OCS at Quantico.
He never knew his father, just me, and my late brother Mac and Kathleen (who took him in when Mary died) and their two sons, Benjamin (my godson, two tours with the Marines in Afghanistan, under fire, now in his third year at UC Davis engineering) and Sebastian (something like fourth recon or that in the Marines, trains with SEALs, I do not understand any of that).
Point is John, family is sacred, or should be, there are hiccups. Climbing is just… a love, a passion, a way of life perhaps (i.e. Fred Beckey for example).
I love climbing, since 13, 1969, but it is not the be all and end all.
YIKES YIKES YIKES
I was formulating and writing this post as I cooked dinner and decided to go to the cascadesclimber site, my computer warned me that the site was infected with a virus. WHOA.
I lost my iMac several weeks ago (age? not a virus), been working from my MacBook, I cannot afford to lose that.
Anybody know anything about that?
EDIT
When I went to cascadesclimbers.com the page just came up VIRUS FOUND.
I have been on the internet, actually Arpanet at university in California since 1983, I still do not understand a lot of it, I am no luddite or technophobe, nor am I a techie. When a site says Virus found, how legit is that? I know there are a lot of Taco Standers who know far more than I do about technology.
|
|
the goat
climber
north central WA
|
|
|
Nov 21, 2017 - 02:37pm PT
|
Patrick,
I've done DC(2 and 4-5 attempts), LR and the Kautz up to 12.5 and I would recommend any of them in their own right, it really depends on how you're feeling and who you're with. I like the Kautz for a number of reasons 1)Camp Hazard is a great bivy and makes for a short summit day 2) the views are spectacular and the weather won't surprise you. 3)the route is typically uncrowded and other than the icefall/serac area above CH, there is little or no objective danger.
Rainier can be a piece of cake or a physical bitch depending on the weather. In July, I've had shirtsleeves at 4:00AM at 12500' and full on winter gear at noon on the Muir snowfield. Conclusion? Be prepared.
Regarding Washington Pass, it rocks and Liberty Bell or the Spires are definitely worth doing. If you're lacking a partner and seek a guide, North Cascade Mountain Guides are excellent. Or you can check in at Goats Beard Mountain Supplies for a partner and beta for anything in the Mazama/Washington Pass area.
If you make it to Mazama give me a call, I'm usually at that cute little store drinking coffee.
Rick
|
|
Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California, now Ireland
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 21, 2017 - 03:32pm PT
|
Whoa, Way Runout, have I missed something?
|
|
John M
climber
|
|
|
Nov 21, 2017 - 03:51pm PT
|
Patrick, I don't know what is going on with cascade climbers site, but I am on a mac and went to it and it took me to a page that was trying to force me to update my flash player. I had to force quit safari to get out of it. Looks to me like they have been hijacked.
|
|
Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
|
|
|
Nov 22, 2017 - 05:25am PT
|
I almost died twice on one trip on Rainier. We traversed the peak in July with only bivy gear, Success Cleaver > DC.
First time, we got caught in a lightning storm on the summit, never would have been able to predict that freak storm. BTW, trying to find the way down to DC in a whiteout was not easy.
Second time on that trip, we got to the bottom of DC at the end of the day and decided not to cross the glacier so late in the day (this was after that avalanche there that killed so many). We tried to bivy at the base of DC but it was so cold and windy that we couldn't light the stove and I got delirious from hypothermia. And this was late July.
It's a big scary mountain.
|
|
Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
|
|
|
Nov 22, 2017 - 09:08am PT
|
I scored some serious booty from two Euros who got avalanched out of the Finger. The Park Service never cleaned up their high camp so I did - nice tent, sleeping bags, stove, etc.
Yer welcome.
|
|
Da-Veed
Big Wall climber
Bigfork
|
|
|
Nov 22, 2017 - 10:03am PT
|
Fuhrer Finger. Straight forward approach, descend back to camp, interesting route. Long way to true summit once on top. Adams standard route is an easy walk up, boring. Good stuff on Hood's other sides, not the south side.
If you really want to go after it go for Liberty Ridge...the classic. This involves carrying over the top though.
Olympus is great (in good weather) glad to hear to did that!
My favorite is Mt Jefferson in Oregon, mostly for the scenery of Jefferson Park.
Rainier is fun, crowded, and heavily glaciated, beware of the crevasses. Seriously.
|
|
Lituya
Mountain climber
WA
|
|
|
Nov 22, 2017 - 10:39am PT
|
I scored some serious booty from two Euros who got avalanched out of the Finger. The Park Service never cleaned up their high camp so I did - nice tent, sleeping bags, stove, etc.
Yer welcome.
Kinda like Robert Wagner in The Mountain? You sound like a wonderful person.
|
|
crankster
Trad climber
No. Tahoe
|
|
|
Nov 22, 2017 - 11:13am PT
|
The OP hasn't been on snow or ice since 1985 and people are suggesting the Liberty Ridge?
Patrick, summiting Rainier by one of the easier routes with a guide would be a worthy experience. Come back later if you want a more technical challenge. I've been on top via the Emmons and DC and didn't come away from either feeling cheated.
Oh, and leave the footfangs in Ireland. Modern crampons weigh a fraction of those stiff, heavy things. :)
|
|
Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
|
|
|
Nov 23, 2017 - 08:48am PT
|
Lituya, you new to the intardnets or haven’t you read Nietzsche‘s Beyond Good And Evil?
|
|
Lituya
Mountain climber
WA
|
|
|
Nov 23, 2017 - 01:14pm PT
|
No matter, I just hold a particular dislike for gear pirates and grave robbers. Also don't care for guys who sh#t all over another poster's heartfelt request for info. You're young, yes?
|
|
Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
|
|
|
Nov 23, 2017 - 06:00pm PT
|
You're young, yes?
And you're new to Supertopo, yes?
But that ain't a dis to either you or that old man you're squabbling with.
|
|
Lituya
Mountain climber
WA
|
|
|
Nov 23, 2017 - 07:46pm PT
|
True, I guess age and a minimum expectation of civil behavior only works when you're engaging non-climbers. Still, you gotta admit Mr. Reilly's replies, sarcasm, dripping ego, misguided advice, and tales of ill-gotten booty on Rainier are not in line with Patrick's genuine outreach for advice.
|
|
hacky47
Trad climber
goldhill
|
|
|
Nov 23, 2017 - 09:52pm PT
|
If you are who I think you are...a mentor.....climbing hero of mine
Slideshows could make a little money ( maybe ) ... just a thought!
Come visit Colorado....
|
|
Lituya
Mountain climber
WA
|
|
|
Nov 24, 2017 - 12:33am PT
|
Guess Reilly is legit--whoda thought? (Other than a transient poster like me.) Still, don't get the humor and was worried Patrick was being fed bad advice. No doubt, he knows better.
Anyhow, Reilly, a strange choice of avatar. I'm more of a Rainier history guy than a climber these days, although I still get up there often, so I was curious about a name taken from one of the mountain's ghosts--with so many to choose from.
http://rgervin.com/photos2010/20100825TokalooRock/original/IMG_7507.jpg
|
|
IntheFog
climber
Mostly the next place
|
|
|
Nov 24, 2017 - 11:35am PT
|
Thank you for the detective work, Litaya. I always assumed Mr. Reilly stole his avatar from Reilly Moss. You may remember Mr. Moss. He's the guy who got spooked off the West Rib of the Willis Wall by a little spindrift, thus handing the FWA of the Wall to Jagersky and Wickwire. I'm not sure what happened to him after that. For all I know, he got eaten by snow leopards in the Pamirs.
|
|
Lituya
Mountain climber
WA
|
|
|
Nov 24, 2017 - 12:02pm PT
|
Well, that could be it too, I suppose. Given the odds of continued good health while partnering with Wickwire back in the day, who could blame to poor guy.
In any event, my hypothesis kind of matched his admitted penchant for frozen plunder and the whole Robert Wagner airplane thing. Let's just hope he's not still wearing that vintage aviator wrist watch. ;)
|
|
Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
|
|
|
Nov 25, 2017 - 03:15pm PT
|
Lituya, good news, braj, I'm still young at fart AND you've still a few days
left to sign up for my StuporTopo Reading Comprehension class! The first
week we'll cover "Putting Yer Bourgeois Assumptions Aside And Sticking To
The Fakts." The second week is "Just What Are The Fakts?"
Hope to see you there!
Oh, and me mum gave me my avatar, it being her maiden name, so don't take
it in vain if you value yer knees. (Paddy will know what I'm on about)
BTW, just off the top of my head I'm gonna say more guys have been to the
moon than have climbed the Willis Wall. Granted, going to the moon is a
lot saner.
|
|
Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
|
|
|
Nov 25, 2017 - 03:24pm PT
|
Just to clarify the whole Reilly mystery, I'll re-post a photo of his, from a long-ago adventure on Mt. Ranier. He posted it himself in the comments section of one of my trip reports a while back, so it's legit, and shows what a true big-mountain guy he was...
Not sure how this thread drifting helps Patrick, but... well, yeah, Reilly's climbed a few peaks, and on some of them he stayed right-side-up.
|
|
Lituya
Mountain climber
WA
|
|
|
Nov 25, 2017 - 09:27pm PT
|
This MY mountain, especially the part in the shade to the left, and don't you think it isn't!
Credit: Reilly
BTW, just off the top of my head I'm gonna say more guys have been to the
moon than have climbed the Willis Wall. Granted, going to the moon is a
lot saner.
Reilly, don't doubt your claim--Central Rib 1975 FWA--but you otta know that the "part of the picture in the shade to the left" that you posted is actually Mowich Face. Willis Wall isn't visible in that shot. Photo comprehension, a guy should be able to point out what he's climbed, eh? Nice job on that Liberty Ridge descent though. Bet you were wishin' you had your K2 Cheeseburgers!;-
|
|
rottingjohnny
Sport climber
Sands Motel , Las Vegas
|
|
|
Nov 25, 2017 - 09:38pm PT
|
Is this the same Reilly of San Gabriel Alps fame...?
|
|
Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California, now Ireland
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 26, 2017 - 11:01am PT
|
(Paddy will know what I'm on about)
If you are referring to me Reilly as Paddy, I haven't a clue what you are talking about.
Doesn't matter.
If I can afford to make the family reunion and if I do go climbing, and if I climb on Rainier, the route that appeals to me and probably within my present capabilities, is the Kautz Glacier route, as per some of the advice as well as a bit or research on it.
So, if that is my intended goal, to drill it down a bit, some specific advice on that route would be useful and helpful. Thanks again for the feedback, suggestions and advice.
Cheers
Paddy
|
|
Lituya
Mountain climber
WA
|
|
|
Nov 26, 2017 - 01:32pm PT
|
Oh, and me mum gave me my avatar, it being her maiden name, so don't take
it in vain if you value yer knees. (Paddy will know what I'm on about)
Sounds like Mr. Moss feels secure enough about his position here that he can threaten people. (Hope he didn't already take you down, Patrick!) Nice website.
As for his Willis Wall boasts vs moon visits, well, as of 1979 there were at least 30 individuals who had successfully climbed the wall by various routes. Not much recorded activity during the 80s and 90s--a few climbs, I think--but I know a couple guys who climbed it in the 00s during a dry mid-summer run. (No doubt they were able to distinguish Willis Wall from Mowich Face.)
|
|
Rollover
climber
Gross Vegas
|
|
|
Nov 26, 2017 - 01:50pm PT
|
|
|
Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
|
|
|
Nov 26, 2017 - 03:38pm PT
|
Paddy, ‘ave we forgotten our dear Republicans’ fascination with kneecaps so soon? Yes, dark humour, at best, but it comes with the genes. ;-/
And here’s to Gerry ‘Bloody’ Adams having a very short retirement.
|
|
Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California, now Ireland
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 26, 2017 - 04:43pm PT
|
Oh yeah, now I get it Reilly, sort of vague though and a weird thing to be writing, even in jest.
Anyway, if you know the mountain that well, what is your take on the Kautz route? If I can afford the journey to the PNW I should be able to afford some climbing and that route is within my ability, though I need to get in better shape, but I have seven months to do it.
If I win the lottery maybe I can afford some ice climbing in Scotland this winter to help me get in shape, otherwise - weights, bicycling, beach running, bouldering and... minimal wine, hah hah.
|
|
fear
Ice climber
hartford, ct
|
|
|
Nov 26, 2017 - 04:52pm PT
|
Hiking up and down steep hills with loads of scree with a heavy pack and your intended Rainier boots is a good start.
|
|
Lituya
Mountain climber
WA
|
|
|
Nov 27, 2017 - 12:05am PT
|
@InTheFog, you may be on to something. The glacier no longer reaches the northern head of the bay, so another big wave is unlikely. Still, the fault is years overdue for another shift.
You may remember Mr. Moss. He's the guy who got spooked off the West Rib of the Willis Wall by a little spindrift, thus handing the FWA of the Wall to Jagersky and Wickwire. I'm not sure what happened to him after that. For all I know, he got eaten by snow leopards in the Pamirs.
FWIW, The first winter ascent of Willis Wall was a few years before our young IRA soldier's "oh-please-take-me-too" winter tromp across the Carbon Glacier. Alex Bertulis and, of course, Jim Wickwire made the FWA of the wall in Feb 1970 via the West Rib, aka Brumal Buttress.
|
|
Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California, now Ireland
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 27, 2017 - 02:03am PT
|
Hiking up and down steep hills with loads of scree with a heavy pack and your intended Rainier boots is a good start.
Fear, that sounds like a slog. Is there any sort of technical climbing, as I can do that. From what I have read and seen photos of the Kautz Ice Chute, it seems to have some technical stuff, maybe not front pointing though, which I have done before a number of times.
I just want to climb a route that has some technical stuff but certainly not the Willis Wall (maybe someday). I am a climber not a touron or peak bagger.
|
|
fear
Ice climber
hartford, ct
|
|
|
Nov 27, 2017 - 06:00am PT
|
Rainier is huge Patrick... you'll be in for some serious bare fisted ol' fashioned heads-down slogging no matter what route you might choose.
All rock I've ever seen on Rainier is sh!t, loose chossy nasty stuff held together by frozen angel spit.
Apart from the highly dangerous rocky routes, the "technical" aspects of most snow/ice routes on Rainier will be highly dependent on the whims of the glaciers/icefalls at the time of year you attempt it. Mostly shorter ice pitches say up to WI3+ish if you so desire. As with any big mountain you can find less technical ways around icy bits but the choice is yours. Alternatively you could charge straight up and through any number of huge icefalls if that's what you wanted.
But the people who dismiss Rainier as "just a slog" aren't mountaineers, they're sheep following one of many dirty trenches to the summit. Step out of the trenches and there's plenty to do.
|
|
seano
Mountain climber
none
|
|
|
Nov 27, 2017 - 09:31am PT
|
Is "peak bagger" supposed to be derogatory? If so, I will slap you with a glove and demand satisfaction. If you want to do some moderately technical ice with minimal hassle, head up north to Mount Baker.
|
|
Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
|
|
|
Nov 27, 2017 - 09:38am PT
|
he Kautz Ice Chute, it seems to have some technical stuff, maybe not front pointing though
I already told you, the Kautz is n00bilicious. The only reason you need front points on it is so you can kick yerself in the calf to stay focused on the slog. But, as has been said repeatedly, it’s one of the better slogs, or ski routes. Oh, and the objective danger is way over-rated. Stevie Wonder could get through the danger zone in 3 minutes, tops. The high camp is completely safe and the best on the mountain.
|
|
Lambone
Big Wall climber
Ashland, Or
|
|
|
Nov 27, 2017 - 10:56am PT
|
I can’t say I’d recommend soloing Mt Rainier if you are new to glacier travel. Just sayin...
|
|
Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California, now Ireland
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 27, 2017 - 01:17pm PT
|
Hey folks (edit), I do not mind a slog, and I know that Rainier is not Mt Diablo. I know that it is a big mountain in its own right, did I not allude to earlier that no mountain should be underestimated, I just do not want the "tourist" route, nor an epic if one can be avoided (yeah, I have been there).
I just want to have a good time, hopefully summit, minimal pain if can be avoided, a good time and good memories. If I do not reach a summit, as the the cliche is, it is not the destination, it is the journey.
I have never underestimated any mountain, any wave, any sea, any wind. I respect Gaia.
Whether I can even afford to make it to the PNW, unless my one novel sells (yeah, and I am also going to win the EuroMillions) between now and July.
But if, and a big if, I can make it, I would like to climb something, there is eff all here in Wexford, where I choose to live for good reasons.
Perhaps Jim's suggestion of Mt Stuart's North Ridge or even Liberty Crack on Liberty Bell may be better alternatives. Something. I am stagnating here in Wexford.
But, all the times I had visited my relatives in Washington, I always look at Rainier. And no Lambone, I was not thinking of soloing. But I did solo Popo, Ixta and Orizaba, so I am not a newbee, typical volcanoes, slogs but not much technical stuff. Still, mountains that need respect.
Again, I DO NOT underestimate any mountain, I have some experience. Not to be narky, but I may be not the super alpinists some of you are, or say you are, but I can hold my own.
Glass of wine that is.
Love you all, seriously (not that kind of love), I love the Taco Stand since 2005. I have bullshitted, cried, bared my soul, bitched, moaned, seen different viewpoints on climbing, politics and such, unfortunately no TRs, but… here I am.
|
|
Bargainhunter
climber
|
|
|
Nov 27, 2017 - 01:33pm PT
|
Kautz Ice Chute is a good choice based of your desires, assuming you have the general fitness and general mountaineering skills (crevasse rescue/ snow camping /white out navigation) to summit Rainier.
I've done the Kautz route twice, both times carrying over and descending back via the normal route.
I placed one ice screw on the crux of the chute on the first trip, none on the next.
|
|
crankster
Trad climber
No. Tahoe
|
|
|
Nov 27, 2017 - 02:04pm PT
|
I’d suggest no more route suggestions until he has airline tickets.
|
|
Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California, now Ireland
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 27, 2017 - 02:23pm PT
|
Crankster, that is the best advice. Hah hah, I love it.
I was just about ready to write a long post about why I left the Yosemite climbing scene in 1976, the BS, the fighting I saw, the one-up-man-ship, the fisticuffs in C4, the egos, the talent, the fragility of people, of climbers. Human nature I suppose.
But Crankster said it. More or less, let's see if Patrick can make it.
EDIT
And, no, I was not a Stonemaster, I hung out in C4 for several seasons, trying to juggle a profession with being a dirtbag. I climbed with some… Charlie Porter the most memorable, but I kept a low profile, unlike me, but there are such greats and some proteges. I was not in their radar, except for my 1948 Ford, that attracted attention, not my intention.
I watched, I observed, and I said, "this is not for me". To each their own.
EDIT
The may be some say I bailed because I was not good enough, well… perhaps.
I was still leading 5.11 when the pretty boys did, maybe not to their standard, but I tried. But the whole C4 atmosphere was not healthy, in my opinion, or maybe I just did not fit in.
|
|
crankster
Trad climber
No. Tahoe
|
|
|
Nov 27, 2017 - 02:34pm PT
|
I hope you do, Patrick.
|
|
Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California, now Ireland
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 27, 2017 - 03:00pm PT
|
when the pretty boys did,
Now I will be be big headed, I ain't no bad looking bloke myself, even at 61. when I look in the mirror, it does not crack. Creaks a bit though.
|
|
Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California, now Ireland
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 27, 2017 - 03:02pm PT
|
I love life.
Edit
And when Jennie and I had money (before her illness) we gave to the Samaritans on a monthly basis for years, to help those people who may have other thoughts about life.
EDIT
What does this have to do with climbing? Nada. Nothing. Just my ego spouting off. But are many of you better? I do not judge, I ask.
What does this have to do with climbing? Because it you believe in something, perhaps it may happen.
It is up to you. I have not had the luxury of skiing down Rainier nor world-class economists at my dinner table, nor any of the other claims by other posters. I just know who I am.
I am not you.
|
|
Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California, now Ireland
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 27, 2017 - 03:58pm PT
|
It seems there is at least one person spinning wheels with me. It is not appreciated. I not care if you skateboarded down The Nose, your input is negative. Thank you if you can exercise some restraint on your self-indulgence.
Edit
I do not know if some of you understand, I just wanted to climb, not the BS of C4. And for those of you who think otherwise, perhaps you may reflect again.
Patrick
NB I just love climbing, albeit I do not get much nowadays (I am starving climbing wise), my choice for good reasons I live where I do. But my wishes and safe vibes do with you all.
Beddy time now
|
|
Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
|
|
|
Nov 27, 2017 - 06:03pm PT
|
way run, didn’t ya love Lituya/Martin Luther’s proselytizing too?
All that we lacked was a good dose of the Black Death! Woot!
|
|
Lituya
Mountain climber
WA
|
|
|
Nov 27, 2017 - 10:07pm PT
|
Oh, and me mum gave me my avatar, it being her maiden name, so don't take
it in vain if you value yer knees. (Paddy will know what I'm on about) And here’s to Gerry ‘Bloody’ Adams having a very short retirement.
Especially liked the kneecap threat from Supertopo’s own man-child. Surprised they tolerate such a dried up old tool handle like “Reilly” here. In any event, Ol’ Gerry wouldn’t have the balls to kneecap anyone. Shooting daddy in front of the family or blowin up kids on the street was more his style.
A guy who claims to have climbed Willis Wall--but can't point it out on a photo of The Mountain that he took himself. AAJ missed the climb too. Curious indeed.
It’s been fun, but this site ain’t a place for sane people.
|
|
Lennox
climber
in the land of the blind
|
|
|
Nov 27, 2017 - 10:24pm PT
|
It’s been fun, but this site ain’t a place for sane people.
Don’t let the door hituya on the way out.
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Nov 27, 2017 - 10:42pm PT
|
Patrick- you are a good soul and a capable climber so I would be more than happy to figure into your plans. I have yet to climb Rainier but the choice of routes depends on conditions in July which ordinarily should be good. Let's keep in touch as your dates approach and get out for some fun. I have all of the gear necessary for any outing so bring clothes, boots and crampons and you can borrow the rest.
The routes on the Mowich face seem to be the most interesting to me but the Liberty Ridge is classic if in condition.
Plan on three to four days to allow for proper acclimatization. I live at about 500 feet ASL. Rock climbing is easy to arrange.
Cheers mate!
|
|
Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California, now Ireland
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 27, 2017 - 11:53pm PT
|
Thanks Steve, I may take you up on that. I am not a bad climbing partner. I know how to belay, I think. Hah hah.
Gotta love a good semi-annual Patrick meltdown
Yeah Runout, it helps soothe the soul.
EDIT
I was curious, Way Runout, so you have 59 posts all 2017, yet you seem to know about my "semi-annual" meltdowns, as if you have been on the Taco Stand for years. Perhaps you have another avatar/handle that you go by over the years on ST. Do you have a split personality? Shades of Sybil. Maybe you are just a lurker.
Reilly, do you know what a blaggard is? Maybe I am one, maybe you are one. But isn't life fun.
I will climb with anybody if they are competent and they trust me. I do not care about politics, as such. Politics ruin friendships and divides families. Yet, I am inclined to delve into politics from time to time. My bad. It doesn't do any good.
Personalities? Well, we all have them, for the better most of the time.
So, for my "semi-annual" meltdown all I can say is…
…is…
wait, it is coming.
Nope, it didn't arrive. Apologies.
EDIT
And I do go by my real name, with the exception of Vlad Pricker, which I came clean on, that was an aberration. Like me.
Another EDIT
You know, a beautiful beach is some 65 meters (a rope length) from my front door. It is a beautiful, cloudless sunny morning. I just walked on the beach with the cat and dog, yes Betty does like walking on the beach with Aggie and I, but she does not like the surf. Cats, they are wimps.
So, when I see negative crap posted (especially about me, and asinine juvenile photoshops of me) I reflect. I posted some crap myself, who am I to judge.
I just soak in the rays of the sun and waves of the Celtic Sea, and thank the heavens I am here.
Now, Lambone, I will not solo Rainier (probably not, I'd be stupid to try with my rustiness, though with luck I could, a lot of luck). As for the Kautz, a slog, a bit of 'easy' tech climbing (it seems) and Bob's my uncle. Yeah, and good weather would help a lot.
It is not about the summit. It is about, the freedom of the hills (where have I heard that before). It is about, climbing. The Fred Beckey spirit, and others. You all know it. Or you would not be here.
Hell, I do not even know if I will make it to the PNW in July.
I will, by hook or by crook. Which is an adage that apparently originated here in Wexford, so some some say - Cromwell's visit to Ireland, when he said he would take Waterford by the Hook Peninsula to the village Crook.
Hmmm, decide for yourself. Local folklore?
I know I have posted this photo before, but I like it.
It took me ages to get that shot. A lucky one too.
And I have to add, it is funny to see how skittish the 'kittish' is when the surf comes up to her. In some ways she wants to play with it, yet, it frightens her (I think). Cats. She is wary, yet cats are, that is their nature of course (I am a zoologist, I sort of know animals).
Now Aggie (border collie lab mix) she will jump right in the surf.
Are you a cat or a dog? I am a donkey.
|
|
Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California, now Ireland
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 28, 2017 - 03:38am PT
|
Now I am going to digress (I am good at that).
I wrote the Fred Beckey spirit.
Rene Desmaison, Royal Robbins, Layton Kor, Hermann Buhl, Reinhold Meissner, Jeff Lowe, Jim Donini, Bridwell, Chouinard, the list is almost endless.
And what are we?
I climbed with Jim once, Lunatic Fringe, I was like fourth up the rope when he was rapping. Big deal.
But I remember this, I do, sitting around a C4 campfire and Bridwell saying he would never ice climb (I was there I do not give a sh#t if anybody says differently, and I was not hallucinating), this from an Olympic level skier (he was), never mind that he was (and is) a so-so climber (hah hah).
He went on to climb some 'minor' climb in Patagonia. So much for "not liking ice climbing”.
You know what I love about this forum? Hmmm. Let me think about that one. The insults, the spraying (did I ? I do not have much to spray about), the way Taco Standers diss other STer's.
The overall polarization, the echo chamber, of this forum and of America. A microcosm?
Do like that? No.
I do not know. I just like being here on the Taco Stand. The climbing threads are for the most part superb. The political posts, well we are all just human, the dog lies as it sleeps.
|
|
Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California, now Ireland
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 28, 2017 - 04:13am PT
|
Climbing Rainier, but some have decided otherwise. I will play. I sit here watching the crows circle the fields. But I post an innocuous thread and I get political grief (cannot Supertoto separate the wheat from the chaffe?
I just want to climb. Sitting here in Wexford, bouldering with some sea outcrops, at the mercy of the tides. At least, prior to Jen's illness, I could climb in Dalkey Quarry. Something.
You all know what is is like, to feel the rock on your hands.
EDIT
I am in a feisty mood, and I know what the… I talk about.
There are some on this forum so full of themselves. And one gives me advice on Rainier, "his mountain".
And then another clicks in, let's diss Patrick. He has a "semi-annual meltdown" (more like quarterly dude, get your facts straight).
Yeah, I am going to listen to a troll who has been on the forum for a matter of days, but it his god-given right to criticize,
F*#k it man, do I care? Well I must but just to dress the bullshitters and as#@&%es.
I am average guy. I once thought I was special, but life taught me otherwise.
At the end of the day, I just want advice on Mt Rainier and other PNW climbing.
I have digressed on that topic. But some of the BS...
|
|
Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California, now Ireland
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 28, 2017 - 06:54am PT
|
Thank you all for your advice and suggestions. There was thread drift, of which I contributed to. Knee-jerk reactions.
I believe I have learned a lot (some, enough I hope) of climbing Mt Rainier. So unless there are other suggestions, let us let this thread drift into history.
Cheers and best wishes
Patrick
|
|
fear
Ice climber
hartford, ct
|
|
|
Nov 28, 2017 - 07:13am PT
|
1) Pick a couple easier routes... 2) Find Partner(s)... 3) Plane tickets... just do it! It's worth it.
|
|
Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California, now Ireland
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 28, 2017 - 07:35am PT
|
Thanks Fear, sound advice.
EDIT
I have been thinking, a first for me. I cannot afford a guide service. I have the experience, albeit rusty, with the gear, some I have, (no Footfangs, I will get a proper pair of cramps, I have the boots).
If I have to, I'll climb alone. You people do not know me. I can solo, if I am prepared and my mind is set. Yes, crevasses and glaciers. I did that when I was 14, one does not forget, like riding a bicycle, but a bit more hazardous.
I am no effing newbee, I know how to climb, and I know my limitations. I know the mountains. I know what I can do. What the mountain and weather decides, I have no control over that,.
|
|
Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California, now Ireland
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 28, 2017 - 08:38am PT
|
Thank you Tad
But I will not hope, I will do. I will make the family reunion and I will climb. Rainier,
If i can some in Washington Pass.
I am determined. Do you think all the years I have lived and worked abroad, I am a slacker?
I can climb. It is my blood.
|
|
Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California, now Ireland
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 28, 2017 - 09:05am PT
|
and more importantly, find the happiness in your life!
Yeah Tad, what is happiness? The woman I love, the one who gave me true love, more than any of the previous girlfriends, a love I did not appreciate until too late. She is now in a nursing home. I hate dementia.
She came out hospital, I became her carer. I was told I was doing a good job. Then things (me) slipped.
Folks, do you think I am a happy camper?
Back to the point. I could solo the Willis Wall if I wanted to, I know how. And I can.
But for now, a simple route will do.
And you know, why not a solo of the Willis Wall. If I am going to climb, I may be rusty, but why not? ~I have the experience. Rusty as it is.
I am am sure there are some reasons why not. But if I get in shape, if I get some winter climbs on Ben Nevis, Zero Point Gully for example (and I could do it, finances are the crux) …
...
|
|
Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California, now Ireland
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 28, 2017 - 09:42am PT
|
Yeah will Jebus, I have a word for you, but my mother taught me to be polite.
Okay, forget what my mom said.
And dickhead, I write from home not some pub, jerk face. I write with sincerity, not some rubbish you come up with. And I do not want some flame wars, so get your word in and we will leave it at that. and I thought I was an as#@&%e, there are a number of us out there.
|
|
Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California, now Ireland
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 28, 2017 - 09:57am PT
|
Hey Jebus
At least you didn’t triple down on me.
You have me, what the hell does that mean?
And Way Run out, so you are reduced to memes. It figures.
This is a thread about Rainier, but it seems like open season, come on, I am in the mood.
I do not like it, I asked for advice and what do I get, some hemorrhoids.
With all due respect to those who had the decency to offer good advice. But trolls will take advantage of any given to spout off and try and ruin things. Sad.
just look at the pathetic photoshop of me by some guy. Why? To soothe the his poor ego? I can do that, but my late mommy says not to.
|
|
Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California, now Ireland
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 28, 2017 - 10:34am PT
|
When did a simple thread like this go down hill?
Jebus had to put his foot in and mention pub and alluded to drink.
Am I just going to sit there and not respond, I should have ignored the ignoramus. But, I am as sucker (though not more of those suckered by his Conman POTUS, are you one of those Jebus?)
I know, I am inviting trouble. I start this thread about Rainier and some others, including me, have hijacked it. That was not my intent
Again, can we focus on Rainier. Forget the idiots.
So what route is the best in a short time and yet "challenging" , not a tourist trap? I still like the idea of the Krautz route.
|
|
Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California, now Ireland
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 28, 2017 - 10:36am PT
|
What an arse wipe Dwain. Grow up and grow a pair.
You got my attention little boy. Are you happy in your squalid existence?
|
|
Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California, now Ireland
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 28, 2017 - 10:45am PT
|
How in the heck a topic like climbing Mount Rainier turned into this. I guess I am partially to blame.
But I did not invite these a*holes to deviate from course.
|
|
Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California, now Ireland
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 28, 2017 - 10:53am PT
|
Whoa, Way Runout. I just saw your post, Thanks for the slap in the face, I needed it.
Some good advice.
I do go over my posts, and correct some things, that is not so bad, is it.
Yeah, I have work to do, in more ways than one. Cheers
Pat.
|
|
canyoncat
Social climber
SoCal
|
|
|
Nov 28, 2017 - 11:09am PT
|
With your propensity for drama, Liberty Ridge.
|
|
Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California, now Ireland
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 28, 2017 - 11:14am PT
|
I like that canyoncat, yes I can be melodramatic. One of my many foibles. But I am sincere, does that count for anything?
Another edit, so I do not bump this post.
I know my strengths, I know my weaknesses, I often show the latter on this forum. It is not insecurity as such, perhaps maybe it is, but it is more of loneliness. Yet, even before Jen's illness (2010), I was spouting off on the Taco Stand.
It could very well be that… I may have issues to look at that I do not see. That is not for this forum.
Still, some of you have highlighted to me, some of my idiosyncrasies, and for that I am grateful.
I still have a lot to learn, and I am only 61. I like to think I have been around the block, but have I?
Best wishes to all
Patrick
|
|
Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California, now Ireland
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 28, 2017 - 12:37pm PT
|
I’m pretty sure whining about your finances on a public forum is nothing new for you.
How true. And you offer some good advice,
So, I ask you sir, you seem to know so much about me (I have "let my hair down" on this forum, so it easy "knowing"me, I have hung my laundry in public so to speak), but your posts are all in this year. Yet, you seem to know (certainly about my previous posts over the years) more than a Taco Stand newbee.
I posted for a while as Vlad Pricker (I had my reasons) but anybody who knew my posts through the years were not fooled. Not that I was trying to fool anybody. I think I made it obvious who Vlad was.
So Way Runout, in all of your infinite wisdom, you are not new to the forum. What are you hiding behind? Or from?
And more sage advice form the swarmi
1. Stop going back and editing your previous posts 1000 times. Make sure you’re satisfied with it first, and then post.
A thousand times? A bit OTT there, eh, Runout.
If I choose to re-edit or correct or update one of my posts, that does not seem to cause you any angst, does it sign swarmi? Yet, it seems so, as you point it out. Annoyed by my edits? And you are the perfect writer? No need for an editor for you.
Yeah, I used to sub on the Sunday Independent, I was told not to touch a certain columnist, his word was sacred. Until he got caught out a number of times.
Nobody is perfect, but you are Runout. I could go on. And I am still curious, you seem to know the forum, what were you before the perfect runout?
You have offered some good advice, which actually I have already received before, and not followed, stupid me. But I call horse manure on you. Your sage advice is nothing new, just regurgitation. And you feel proud for it, I can tell by the demeanor of your words. I have been around the block in that circle.
Best I can tell, you are an as#@&%e who likes shitting on others. Have a good life.
End of story
|
|
Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California, now Ireland
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 28, 2017 - 01:58pm PT
|
Gosh darn it, this thread is about climbing.
All I can say, best wishes to you sad souls who are seeking something else.
Now leave me alone. I do not need your shite or stupid memes.
I asked for advice, for suggestions, and what did I get along the way, some egotist (perhaps more than one), about his exploits on Rainier and some other joker trying to tell me about life and my my previous posts, like he is god.
What is a person to do? Tell then to eff off. Probably beats their wife and kids too.
Sad.
|
|
Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California, now Ireland
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 28, 2017 - 02:28pm PT
|
I have enough on my plate, I do not need gobshites.
Oh I just saw the "video" from that creep.
Yeah I can identify.
You are an as#@&%e Way Runabout. Now I can sleep in peace
|
|
StefanS
Trad climber
Leavenworth WA
|
|
|
Nov 28, 2017 - 03:31pm PT
|
Hi Patrick
I hope you can make it over here next. Family reunions are important.
What Steve said earlier about making a 3 or 4 day trip is important to acclimatize. The first time I climbed Rainier was a fast two days and I got clobbered near the top.
If you can recruit some of your relatives to go with, the Kautz would be a great route for that. It has good camp sites along it.
If you can go with Steve on the Mowich side, I will be jealous.
Rainier requires a permit and solo permits are scrutinized carefully,
Also will loan you some gear.
|
|
Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California, now Ireland
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 28, 2017 - 04:05pm PT
|
Thank you Stefan and Steve Grossman, you are both a swish of fresh air.
I may take you guys up on that.
Thank you for your decency. I can still climb. If this thread has shown anything, there is, are, good people out there.
|
|
Yury
Mountain climber
T.O.
|
|
|
Nov 28, 2017 - 05:43pm PT
|
way runout:
2. Don’t post three or four times in a row, it’s ridiculous. It’s called chain posting ... Is "chain posting" the same as "stream of consciousness"?
I do not see anything wrong with Patrick's stream of consciousness.
|
|
Yury
Mountain climber
T.O.
|
|
|
Nov 28, 2017 - 05:44pm PT
|
Patrick Sawyer:
I know my strengths, I know my weaknesses Patrick, I believe that you meant "I knew my strengths, I knew my weaknesses".
You can't know your current strengths and weaknesses (in a context of Rainier discussion) if you haven't climbed ice in quite a few years.
|
|
Winemaker
Sport climber
Yakima, WA
|
|
|
Nov 28, 2017 - 05:47pm PT
|
Hey Patrick, this 'ill get your heart thumping. The slog up to camp Muir. Not to be confused with Reilly's pictures ........
|
|
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
|
Nov 28, 2017 - 07:39pm PT
|
Remember this one undeniable fact....Rainier is a volcano. It is also undeniable that as far as mountain types go, volcanos do not serve up very good climbing.
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Nov 28, 2017 - 08:12pm PT
|
Very few routes on Rainier are anything like steep by anything like beyond mid-last century standards which is why the Mowich Face interests me more than most other routes. Jimmy Katz skied the Liberty Ridge long ago.
As long as everything stays put, as it should by July, and you don't get clipped by rockfall then it should all be gud.
It's funny but if you haven't climbed Rainier then most folks won't consider you a serious climber in casual conversation in these parts. LOL
|
|
Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California, now Ireland
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 29, 2017 - 03:10am PT
|
Thank you Steve and Jim. It is refreshing to hear such sound and positive voices.
I am in a bit of dire straits right now, and you guys are a big help.
So, perhaps Rainier is not a goal. I like the idea of Mt Stuart. It just is Mt Rainier sticks out like a sore thumb, begging me to visit.
|
|
Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
|
|
|
Nov 29, 2017 - 05:14am PT
|
volcanoes do not serve up very good climbing WTF you talkin' 'bout?
Choss
Lottsa rockfall
Big crevasses
Up to 12,000+ feet of vertical climbing
What could be better?
|
|
Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California, now Ireland
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 29, 2017 - 06:33am PT
|
Yeah Mouse, bring it on. Volcanoes. As if the earth never moved. It must be a "progressive" planet.
Merced Mouse, you and Donini are dialed into the same tune. Good people.
And if I get there, Rainier will probably erupt.
|
|
Winemaker
Sport climber
Yakima, WA
|
|
|
Nov 29, 2017 - 07:12am PT
|
Patrick, get in good shape and you could do several routes! From the News Tribune:
"Most people need at least two days to climb Mount Rainier.
On the morning of July 26, Seattle’s Uli Steidl padded his esteemed résumé with a new speed climbing record on the 14,411-foot mountain. Steidl, 44, left Paradise at 4:57 a.m. and returned at 9:21 a.m.
His roundtrip time of 4 hours, 24 minutes, 30 seconds is the fastest known time for a Mount Rainier climb by somebody not using skis."
Read more here: http://www.thenewstribune.com/outdoors/article93108877.html#storylink=cpy
|
|
Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
|
|
|
Nov 29, 2017 - 07:31am PT
|
LOVE Pacific Northwest volcanoes
|
|
Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
|
|
|
Nov 29, 2017 - 08:33am PT
|
Mt Adams N Ridge! Best moderate route on a PNW volcanoe without a conga line.
|
|
Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California, now Ireland
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 29, 2017 - 08:40am PT
|
I can be a pain in the ass. But I mean well. Though my late mother said, "the highway to Hell is paved with good intentions.'
More later, the plumber just arrives (heck, that is a trade I should be in, bucks, dosh and smelly toilets).
Later
Forget Rainier, Jim you are right. Mount Stuart. I have the gear, I have the shoes. I have the attitude. I have the ability.
It sounds likes a great climb. Anything. I am hoping to hit Fairhead next weekend. Late in the year. I have no partners, but I have a car, a rope, some gear, and me.
|
|
Bargainhunter
climber
|
|
|
Nov 29, 2017 - 03:21pm PT
|
Good pics Sierra Ledge Rat.
I especially like the one of the climber approaching the Success Cleaver/ Success Couloirs/ South Tahoma Headwall.
Did you do one of those routes?
|
|
Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
|
|
|
Nov 29, 2017 - 06:44pm PT
|
Yeah, we traversed Rainier 3-1/2 days
Success Cleaver > DC
Instead of doing the last class 5 rock band below Pt. Success (couldn't climb it w/o pro) we traversed left across the top of the South Tahoma headwall
|
|
Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
|
|
|
Nov 29, 2017 - 06:49pm PT
|
3 half-days? Bankers’ hours! 😝
|
|
Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
|
|
|
Nov 29, 2017 - 06:53pm PT
|
Never claimed to be fast (:
It took a whole day just to get to the base of Success Cleaver
And we bivouaced at the base of the Success couloirs to avoid the afternoon, south-side rockfall barrages
Third night was at the paradise hut
|
|
Lituya
Mountain climber
|
|
My sincerest apologies to Reilly. As a transient here, I missed the history behind this thread--more specifically, Patrick's history whose requests for Rainier info I thought were sincere and solid. Reilly's responses seemed flippant, but I now realize he knew more than I did and I totally missed his humor.
As for his Willis Wall climb, well, all I can say is balls. I've climbed Rainier a shitload of times--and thought about that friggin wall all my life. Now I'm probably getting too old. It would have been great to have it on my resume as something to reflect back on by a nice warm fireplace. I salute the very few like Reilly who can.
Willis Wall, Central Rib
First Winter Ascent by Dusan Jagersky and J.Reilly Moss
February 27th, 1975
|
|
Studly
Trad climber
WA
|
|
To me, Mt Stuart is just as much as a physical exertion as is climbing Rainier. The hike in, the climb, and the very long descent and then the hike out are much more then it appears in the guidebook. Its a big chunk of granite. Why don't you shoot for something like Guye Peak or Chair peak or the Tooth if you are in Seattle Patrick. Way more feasible unless you are in great shape.
|
|
Winemaker
Sport climber
Yakima, WA
|
|
If you're going via Long's Pass the descent to the valley floor seems about the diciest bit.
|
|
Mark Force
Trad climber
Ashland, Oregon
|
|
Stuart is awesome!! The work is worth it.
|
|
Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
|
|
|
Jan 10, 2018 - 01:56pm PT
|
Just found and read the whole thread (well, I certainly looked at every page...) and what a thrill ride. Points to Lituya for nice apology and restatement. Yes, both Patrick and Reilly are institutions around here, there's a whole lot back behind this thread than seems apparent to the casual reader.
Glad to hear you're coming around in your goals Patrick. I'd think your next order of business after a plane ticket is a partner, and you can fine tune the objective from there.
Donini's N Ridge Stuart suggestion is solid: memorable route in a great setting, good rock, you'll get a little snow, and you'll be all over the mountain. Come in Ingalls Pass & Goat Pass, descend the Cascadian & back out over Longs Pass. Late July can make the north side descent down Sherpa Couloir kinda dodgy and less than casual, and other descents back to the Mountaineer Creek approach benefit from previous experience. You'll sleep at least once on that outing, don't be surprised if you do it twice.
|
|
mynameismud
climber
backseat
|
|
|
Jan 10, 2018 - 06:38pm PT
|
I am local and if you need a partner I am willing. I live near North Bend. I have not been doing a lot of climbing lately but I am trying to get back into it. I used to climb a fair bit, been up a few peaks. Ping me if you need a partner. We can swap lies and see if it might work.
Edit: I grew up in the area but did the bulk of my climbing in Ca. Moved back a year and a half ago and I am trying to get out and experience the area.
|
|
| Messages 1 - 124 of total 124 in this topic |
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!