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bit'er ol' guy
climber
the past
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Mar 19, 2012 - 12:43am PT
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gee let me grab one of a million Valley guide books
or just google camp 4 wall
then pass it off on ST as first hand knowledge.
It you haven't done it-don't recommendit-f*#kkin' bloody SANDBAGERS!!!
"I heard it was good"
my ass!
????
from who?
I was just there,
nothing other than the doggie dog dik climbs
looked like they had been climbed in a 1,000 years.
Go ahead recommendit to some guy on ST-Cool!
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PellucidWombat
Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
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Mar 19, 2012 - 01:31am PT
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Someone sounds bitter ;-)
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Mar 19, 2012 - 01:53am PT
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Oh, right, Stay Free. Is that where the "Panty Shield" is? I remember Walt ranting about it in like 1987 or something.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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Mar 19, 2012 - 03:19am PT
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Clint's overlays would lead one to believe there is still some undone lines up there.
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can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
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Mar 19, 2012 - 10:55am PT
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bvb, Walt and I were shooting the sh#t in C4 parking lot and ogling the Panty Shield back in 86. We started talking about route possibilities up there and he asked me if I wanted to go do what would become Stay Free. LOL somehow that ole snail eye got real big knowing my skills and Walt's go for it rep, so I politely declined. But yeah, it's on the right edge of the Panty Shield.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Mar 19, 2012 - 03:09pm PT
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PellucidWombat usually I assume that the images I post can be used for non-commercial purposes with my permission (though I know, obviously I have no control once they are posted) and the slightest requirement to attribute their origin to me...
all that being said, that's a photomerge of 8 images of something like 40 images of the area... specifically for a purpose to be known soon (hopefully)...
...anyway, derivatives off that image are welcome and encouraged! (that's why I posted it).
ß Î Ø T Ç H, nothing to pay attention to there folk, just move along...
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SGropp
Mountain climber
Eastsound, Wa
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Mar 19, 2012 - 03:19pm PT
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Frankenstein was done in 76. I think Dave Andersons partner was named Brent ---?
They were up there quite a while, long enough to get their vehicle parked in the Sunnyside lot impounded by the rangers.
They said the route was hard and scary and they were all scratched up and covered with poison oak blisters from the descent.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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Mar 19, 2012 - 03:45pm PT
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nothing to pay attention to there folk, just move along... Wink wink - nod nod
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Mar 19, 2012 - 03:55pm PT
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Rik's original topo matches up very well with the xRez photo from 30+ years later
I was in Camp 4 while Rik was soloing the route. His girlfriend (whose name I've forgotten) was giving us a rather engaging, move-for-move running commentary. His topo and the line shown match my memory, to the extent I can trust it after 39 years.
Incidentally, am I the only one who thinks Tweedle Dee is good training, particularly for a left-side-in flared chimney?
John
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Mar 19, 2012 - 06:16pm PT
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Pretty cool that the info on Frankenstein is surfacing, 36 years later!
Cool to see Rik's original topo, too.
Thanks for posting up, you guys.
Now the next task is to find it, and somehow avoid the poison oak? :-)
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lucho
Trad climber
California
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Mar 19, 2012 - 10:41pm PT
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When Cedar and I free climbed the Camp 4 Wall we started at a 5.8 chimney wide corner thing left of an obvious line (Klaus' Camp Whore or The Scorpion) that starts just behind the large tree at the base of the Camp 4 Wall (tree #2). The Scorpion name came from the first day we hiked up there, it was hot as hell, the shade had just arrived and we had been walking the base looking for a start to our route. From what we had scoped from the lot down at camp we were at a few of the weaknesses we had seen through binocs. Not knowing it had been aid climbed we walked up to Klaus' Camp Whore and I stuck my finger in the first finger lock at the start of the crack. It was splitter and clean! I removed my finger and just then a scorpion came crawling out of the crack right were my finger had been. Now being a city boy it was my first scorpion encounter, I watched the thing crawl down the crack onto the ground and into the bushes, I was freaked out. I also kinda thought it was a sign that we should start there! The Scorpion name given was just another stupid attempt at renaming someones route just cause it got freeclimbed.
We originally tried to free Klaus' "Camp Whore" but toiled for a month trying to lead the thing, both of us just flailed miserably. Cedar went away on some trip and I wanted to push the route further past the impossible first pitch so my friend Max and I took a less appealing start over to the left. That day we pushed our route up another couple pitches but after that I had to wait til Cedar came back, cause I hate climbing alone and I couldnt get anyone to go up there with me.
Eventually months after we had finished our route Cedar went back and red/pink pointed with an unknown partner. Apparently the Canadian hard-man Oliver sent it placing gear and all and called it 5.13.
Now thinking back I do remember trying to free a pitch going upwards near pitch 7 or 8 , we saw the aluminum hangers on cool featured steep rock. It was super spicy in parts and truly horrifying in others, we eventually made it to the belay after much dogging and lowering each other to let the other try and make it to what looked like what might be a belay. Thankfully it was but what we saw above just looked like more of the same, free climbing mixed with hooking with homemade aluminum hangers for pro - sketch. We lowered back down and continued on the "ramp" of the Camp 4 Terror.
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PellucidWombat
Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
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Mar 20, 2012 - 08:22pm PT
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Incidentally, am I the only one who thinks Tweedle Dee is good training, particularly for a left-side-in flared chimney?
I loved that route. One of my favorite chimneys! Nicely done in 2 long pitches, and I found it to be a great route to practice cam pushing.
P1. Photo by Justin
About to enter the 5.8 crux flare. Photo by Justin
5.8 flare crux
Pushing a #5 cam, my only pro for most of the pitch, but very secure.
Through the flaring crux, now I can squeeze with all 4 appendages
Looking down from near the end of the last pitch
I'm tempted to go back to do the right-start chimney to see how it compares to the standard first pitch. Also, the way we tried it worked out well, where we warmed up by climbing P1 of Doggie Diversions, which put us right below the start of the route.
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Dave Davis
Social climber
Seattle, WA
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Mar 20, 2012 - 08:45pm PT
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Brent Hoffman in all likelihood was the guy that Dave Anderson did Frankenstein with.Dave was a fairly prolific first ascensionist who rarely made a big deal about what he did so unfortunately many of his routes have faded into obscurity or got their first ascent years latter.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Mar 21, 2012 - 03:20pm PT
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Thanks for sharing.
I see from reading TripL7's post on the "Bruce Carson's hammerless solo of Sentinel West Face,1974" thread that it was kind of a policy for Dave Anderson and others to not report their first ascents:
"I did about 4-5 first ascents in the Valley with Dave, all in the .10+ or harder range, primarily 2-3 pitches. Dave would always ask "What should we call them..." They were great climbs, but he decided to not include them in the "route notebook"! There was such a focus on new routes and getting your name in the guidebook, that a handful of the Seattle/Pacific NW boy's decided to just "Shine that scene!!"(F*#k that scene)and not document/record their new routes! They were all eventually redone and claimed by various individuals of that time period."
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=445546&msg=1209070#msg1209070
The non-reporting of FAs was advocated by some folks in the 70s as a way to reduce what was perceived as crowding at that time. In sympathy with the ecological / Earth Day movement of the times, I think. Of course the excitement of exploration was never really dimmed, just the way it might be communicated socially.
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Erik Sloan
climber
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May 12, 2012 - 01:39pm PT
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Last Saturday Richie and I topped out a new bigwall on Camp 4 Wall. Good ol Boy VI 5.8 A2. What a sweet wall!
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Kalimon
Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
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May 12, 2012 - 03:59pm PT
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Now this is getting interesting . . .
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Captain...or Skully
climber
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May 13, 2012 - 01:45am PT
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I believe Nanook was asked a question. How 'bout it?
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Captain...or Skully
climber
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May 13, 2012 - 02:55pm PT
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Do you think he'll answer, Klaus? Usually he'll do some evasion tactic.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
the secret topout on the Chockstone Chimney
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May 13, 2012 - 03:11pm PT
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Kirk- would you answer this question on the friggin' internet? Not sanctioning anything, but...come on.
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