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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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here ya go henny
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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A beautiful shot of Epperson's "Moroccan Menace" no holds, just slap like a maniac
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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need to visit the V.P. office
Agreed. Regardless of what people rate that thing, I believe it was the hardest thing I ever did at Woodson. Throw in that approach and the primeval, remote location, and it's a full-value expedition.
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deepnet
Boulder climber
San Diego
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Morracan Menace...One of my fav's BITD
"Masters' of the Universe" area has such a fine concentration of challenging problems!
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Ron -
Hahaha, guess I asked for that. Good one.
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darkmagus
Mountain climber
San Diego, CA
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EDIT: It might be a troll to begin with, but if you're adding "+" or "-" to your V-scale ratings, you're doing it wrong.
I went up the hill on Saturday, it was a bit wet on the ground but the boulders were dry! Saw a guy teaching his kid to throw rocks off into the bushes. I told him that he might hit a climber if he did that. The wife laughed at him.
I did a few random problems near the summit (the flakey 5.9ish thing on the boulder with the structure on top).
I love the Masters of the Universe area... I tried K.P.'s demise, and GOT SO CLOSE. Smeared and high-stepped my way up, to no avail. I also discovered where "He Man" (mantel problem) is. Gonna work that thing next time, as I love Woodson mantels.
Really psyched to get out there this week again, and of course next weekend!
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Maybe this will get people fired up to try what has to be one of the most badass new problems on the hill. Heres Greg Horvath on his heinous creation, "Flight of the Ox". I think he called it V6, but after bouldering with Greg then watching him send this thing, i think that grade may be a bit modest. I used pics from a previous attempt for two perspectives. FA was on 5/20/11
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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oops, cant forget the top-out shots
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deepnet
Boulder climber
San Diego
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Nice shots Ron! Where the hell is that thing?
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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I always considered Silk Banana to be impossible for me (I was right). Luckily, I was fine with that because, well, what else are you gonna do? Having said that, it seems to me that having long legs relative to your height and/or being tall in general is a HUGE advantage on this climb. If you can't get knee locks, good luck. I thinK that RP and BVB have the exact right body types for this climb (me, and say, Gonamok, maybe not so much). Now, of course, I'm impressed with Rick and BVB as climbers regardless - sheesh, they're frigging American climbing legends; HOWEVER, I would be REALLY impressed to see a short guy or a medium guy with short legs do this climb. Who's the shortest guy to do this climb? I'm guessing, no one shorter than 6'2".
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splitter
Trad climber
Cali Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
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I'm 6'1"!
Initially, I used the very first "kneebar" (left knee) as a rest. But eventually I didn't resort to it (or any kneebars) just underclings.
edit: like i said, it either didn't occur to me to try and use more kneebars, or I wasn't able to (don't recall).
Greg - nope, on the contrary. i have short legs relative to my height. my inseam is 32"/33"! regardless, my point was that it can be done without resorting to kneebars.
Hey, I'm familiar with how well most of you guys climb[ed]. I probably never got even close to that level. BUT, I spent a lot of time on it (SB) and eventually got it wired. SO, I suspect others could also.
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Damn!...I meant 6'2" +/- 1". I'm still in the hunt.
Edit: Actually, Splitter, we haven't considered the second part of the equation - do you have long legs relative to your height? It's like the anti-ape index.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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HOWEVER, I would be REALLY impressed to see a short guy or a medium guy with short legs do this climb. Who's the shortest guy to do this climb? I'm guessing, no one shorter than 6'2".
Dick Cilley, 5' 4" , industry standard for Woodson 11c
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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If Dick's done this, it totally blows my hypothesis (and reduces my batting average on sh#t like this to .090).
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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ok... I made that up..... just sitting here with a rum and juice drink. Your theory is probably still sound. Hi Greg!
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Don't mistake me for Rick Piggot, Splitter. If RP was like Jim Bridwell, I'd be like, John Candy.
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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So splitter, you climbed alot at woodson in the 80's? If so i probably know you. Im Ron Amick, whats your name?
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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here are the trails that access flight of the ox, which is on the south side of split rock. Theres tons of other good problems in that area. Take the well defined trail going uphill (west) from slant crack and you will run into split rock. cant miss it.
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splitter
Trad climber
Cali Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
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Ron,
As far as I can recall, you and I only had one encounter. It was during the Spring of 1983 and was at Mission Gorge. It was very brief, no introductions or whatever. My partner that day and I were at Lunch Rock and you had just come up the trail by yourself (i think you were alone).
Perhaps you will be able to recall that encounter if i jog your memory some...
Earlier, after we had topped out on the Ramp and were making our way up and over to this face climb on the far left side of the cliff (a 5.9 as I recall, can't remember the name) I noticed this off sized fist crack that was at the far left side of where this small ledge ended (2nd or 3rd tier). It (the fist crack) leaned slightly to the left/diagnaled up to the summit. You had to lean slightly out off the ledge to sink your first fist jam and then it turned to offsized fist as it went over a bulge and then went from hands to fingers/thin fingers. The crux was going through the off sized fist/bulge. A bit intimidating since you were already about 50-60 ft or so off the deck. It quickly turned to no harder then 5.6 to the summit. The guide, at the time, said it (the fists/crux section) was .10b/c, or so the guy I was climbing with told me.
So, I ask him if he wanted to do it again, I had never done it and it looked really clean/splitter and i wanted to try leading it. He said he didn't want to repeat it, and seemed like he was in a hurry to continue on and he did just that. So, I decided to solo it (one of those spur of the moment things). The off sized fist/crux part went real smoothly, but as I got about 3/4 of the way up the 5.6 crack (close to the top) it became really slimy/wet and slippery. It had rained a day or two before. So, I made the decision to down climb the crux, rather than grease off of some wet 5.6 and deck (i figured it would look better in my obit to have bit the bullet on the 5.10 part rather then the 5.6 part, lol).
Anyway, the down climb went smoothly, and we then continued our approach up over the top to the 5.9 route/face climb on the far left side of the cliff. Afterwards we headed back to Lunch Rock and I encountered you as you came up the trail from below.
Like I said, it was a rather brief encounter, you simply asked if I had also soloed the 5.9 face route, and I said no and you continued on (so evidently you saw me solo the fist crack and then downclimb it). We didn't exchange names or anything, although I had already known yours/who you were. That is the only time I recall meeting you. I do remember hereing that you had moved to Northern Calif, sometime after that.
I can't remember the name of that fist crack, perhaps you do. The dood i climbed with that day was some young guy from SDSU that I had just met there that morning, and I never saw or climbed with him again.
My name is John McLean (nobody special)!
edit: BTW, that day, i had just came down from LA for the weekend to visit family, and decided to get a little climbing in at the Gorge also. I didn't really do any climbing at Woodson in the 80's until starting about Spring of '86 which was when I moved back to the San Diego area. So, perhaps you had already left SD for up north by then?
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Hey John, for the life of me i cant remember that day at the Gorge, but its cool that our paths crossed way back when, at good ol' Mission Gorge. I never moved to norcal tho, got married in 82 and moved to poway in 83 where ive lived ever since. After 83 i was either climbing at woodson or poking around the back country looking for new stuff when i wasnt out of town. If youre ever down this way gimmie a call and we can meet at woodson.
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