Woodson 2012

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Messages 581 - 600 of total 700 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Dec 4, 2012 - 08:03pm PT
I always considered Silk Banana to be impossible for me (I was right). Luckily, I was fine with that because, well, what else are you gonna do? Having said that, it seems to me that having long legs relative to your height and/or being tall in general is a HUGE advantage on this climb. If you can't get knee locks, good luck. I thinK that RP and BVB have the exact right body types for this climb (me, and say, Gonamok, maybe not so much). Now, of course, I'm impressed with Rick and BVB as climbers regardless - sheesh, they're frigging American climbing legends; HOWEVER, I would be REALLY impressed to see a short guy or a medium guy with short legs do this climb. Who's the shortest guy to do this climb? I'm guessing, no one shorter than 6'2".
splitter

Trad climber
Cali Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
Dec 4, 2012 - 08:12pm PT
I'm 6'1"!

Initially, I used the very first "kneebar" (left knee) as a rest. But eventually I didn't resort to it (or any kneebars) just underclings.

edit: like i said, it either didn't occur to me to try and use more kneebars, or I wasn't able to (don't recall).

Greg - nope, on the contrary. i have short legs relative to my height. my inseam is 32"/33"! regardless, my point was that it can be done without resorting to kneebars.

Hey, I'm familiar with how well most of you guys climb[ed]. I probably never got even close to that level. BUT, I spent a lot of time on it (SB) and eventually got it wired. SO, I suspect others could also.
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Dec 4, 2012 - 08:16pm PT
Damn!...I meant 6'2" +/- 1". I'm still in the hunt.

Edit: Actually, Splitter, we haven't considered the second part of the equation - do you have long legs relative to your height? It's like the anti-ape index.
Russ Walling

Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
Dec 4, 2012 - 08:25pm PT
HOWEVER, I would be REALLY impressed to see a short guy or a medium guy with short legs do this climb. Who's the shortest guy to do this climb? I'm guessing, no one shorter than 6'2".

Dick Cilley, 5' 4" , industry standard for Woodson 11c
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Dec 4, 2012 - 08:30pm PT
If Dick's done this, it totally blows my hypothesis (and reduces my batting average on sh#t like this to .090).
Russ Walling

Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
Dec 4, 2012 - 08:32pm PT
ok... I made that up..... just sitting here with a rum and juice drink. Your theory is probably still sound. Hi Greg!
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Dec 4, 2012 - 08:50pm PT
Don't mistake me for Rick Piggot, Splitter. If RP was like Jim Bridwell, I'd be like, John Candy.
gonamok

climber
dont make me come over there
Dec 5, 2012 - 12:17am PT
So splitter, you climbed alot at woodson in the 80's? If so i probably know you. Im Ron Amick, whats your name?
gonamok

climber
dont make me come over there
Dec 5, 2012 - 12:33am PT
Credit: gonamok
here are the trails that access flight of the ox, which is on the south side of split rock. Theres tons of other good problems in that area. Take the well defined trail going uphill (west) from slant crack and you will run into split rock. cant miss it.
splitter

Trad climber
Cali Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
Dec 5, 2012 - 01:08am PT
Ron,

As far as I can recall, you and I only had one encounter. It was during the Spring of 1983 and was at Mission Gorge. It was very brief, no introductions or whatever. My partner that day and I were at Lunch Rock and you had just come up the trail by yourself (i think you were alone).

Perhaps you will be able to recall that encounter if i jog your memory some...

Earlier, after we had topped out on the Ramp and were making our way up and over to this face climb on the far left side of the cliff (a 5.9 as I recall, can't remember the name) I noticed this off sized fist crack that was at the far left side of where this small ledge ended (2nd or 3rd tier). It (the fist crack) leaned slightly to the left/diagnaled up to the summit. You had to lean slightly out off the ledge to sink your first fist jam and then it turned to offsized fist as it went over a bulge and then went from hands to fingers/thin fingers. The crux was going through the off sized fist/bulge. A bit intimidating since you were already about 50-60 ft or so off the deck. It quickly turned to no harder then 5.6 to the summit. The guide, at the time, said it (the fists/crux section) was .10b/c, or so the guy I was climbing with told me.

So, I ask him if he wanted to do it again, I had never done it and it looked really clean/splitter and i wanted to try leading it. He said he didn't want to repeat it, and seemed like he was in a hurry to continue on and he did just that. So, I decided to solo it (one of those spur of the moment things). The off sized fist/crux part went real smoothly, but as I got about 3/4 of the way up the 5.6 crack (close to the top) it became really slimy/wet and slippery. It had rained a day or two before. So, I made the decision to down climb the crux, rather than grease off of some wet 5.6 and deck (i figured it would look better in my obit to have bit the bullet on the 5.10 part rather then the 5.6 part, lol).

Anyway, the down climb went smoothly, and we then continued our approach up over the top to the 5.9 route/face climb on the far left side of the cliff. Afterwards we headed back to Lunch Rock and I encountered you as you came up the trail from below.

Like I said, it was a rather brief encounter, you simply asked if I had also soloed the 5.9 face route, and I said no and you continued on (so evidently you saw me solo the fist crack and then downclimb it). We didn't exchange names or anything, although I had already known yours/who you were. That is the only time I recall meeting you. I do remember hereing that you had moved to Northern Calif, sometime after that.

I can't remember the name of that fist crack, perhaps you do. The dood i climbed with that day was some young guy from SDSU that I had just met there that morning, and I never saw or climbed with him again.

My name is John McLean (nobody special)!

edit: BTW, that day, i had just came down from LA for the weekend to visit family, and decided to get a little climbing in at the Gorge also. I didn't really do any climbing at Woodson in the 80's until starting about Spring of '86 which was when I moved back to the San Diego area. So, perhaps you had already left SD for up north by then?
gonamok

climber
dont make me come over there
Dec 5, 2012 - 07:10pm PT
Hey John, for the life of me i cant remember that day at the Gorge, but its cool that our paths crossed way back when, at good ol' Mission Gorge. I never moved to norcal tho, got married in 82 and moved to poway in 83 where ive lived ever since. After 83 i was either climbing at woodson or poking around the back country looking for new stuff when i wasnt out of town. If youre ever down this way gimmie a call and we can meet at woodson.
Horvath

Trad climber
CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 5, 2012 - 07:56pm PT
darkmagus- good call on the +'s and -'s

also, forgot to mention it but ya couple weeks back Doug and I were in Masters and cleaned out the landing somewhat on He Man- thing is sick
Credit: Horvath

Greg I like your hypothesis about height and SB- it helps me feel better : )
Nonetheless our crew will probably give it a go this season (and all of us are 5'9" and lower I think) and will post up if we succeed- given how hot a topic it seems to be.

ya Ron its probably a 7, but it has to see a repeat for us to really have any idea.
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Dec 5, 2012 - 08:06pm PT
What in tarnation is all this fuss over Silk Banana?! It is just another routine problem on the circuit, although on hot/greasy days it was damn near impossible. Not a major event BITD and I can think of at least six people off the top of my head who had it dialed. I think you guys have yourselves all psyched out or something. Just Do It.



'taint no thang.
henny

Social climber
The Past
Dec 5, 2012 - 10:28pm PT
You tell 'em bvb.
gonamok

climber
dont make me come over there
Dec 6, 2012 - 04:59pm PT
B the VB has spoken on the matter of SB. and good thing too, because i couldnt do it, didnt like it, avoided it, derided and ignored it for 25 years. When i said my prayers every night i would ask god to please send an earthquake or mudslide to wipe silk banana off the face of the earth.

If ol boob woulda called it a classic i would have been a sad little sea monkey.
gonamok

climber
dont make me come over there
Dec 6, 2012 - 05:10pm PT
He Man is yet another Epperson gem.
deepnet

Boulder climber
San Diego
Dec 6, 2012 - 05:16pm PT
Ron, didn't "He Man" inspire the naming of the area?

BTW Nice press Greg!
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Dec 6, 2012 - 05:24pm PT
Can we get the conversation back to me please?
gonamok

climber
dont make me come over there
Dec 6, 2012 - 05:35pm PT
You may be right, rick. That mantle is definately a he-man press, so it makes sense that the rest of the problems would be the masters of the universe, but not sure how it actually went. Just because i named that stuff means im supposed to remember?
gonamok

climber
dont make me come over there
Dec 6, 2012 - 05:36pm PT
you sure you wanna go there bob-o?
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