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MAD BOLTER
Trad climber
CARLSBAD,NM
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 17, 2009 - 02:29pm PT
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I finished setting up the rap route for doubled 60mtr ropes and tape measured distances. The longest was 91' shortest was 39'
More specifics with anchor photos later. They are all stainless and chain connected.
I presume you know this is on Lembert Dome
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Layaway Plan
Trad climber
East of the Valley
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Jul 17, 2009 - 03:18pm PT
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When are you going to equip Cathedral Peak with a rap route? About as usefull....
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hungry man
Trad climber
around
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Jul 17, 2009 - 03:20pm PT
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maybe I'm just having a bad dream...
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Norwegian
Trad climber
Placerville, California
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Jul 17, 2009 - 03:22pm PT
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that way the yahoo's drunk on cultural excess can find their way down.
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pud
climber
Sportbikeville
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Jul 17, 2009 - 03:34pm PT
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dude,
It's an easy walk down. What's the point?
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Jul 17, 2009 - 03:35pm PT
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Oh god a bolt. let's get our panties in a bunch.
It's a bolt protected route with mostly bolted anchors anyway. People get rained off it all the time. Why force em to rap off single protection bolts?
Thanks MadBolter
Peace
Karl
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
way, WAY out there....(OMG)
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Jul 17, 2009 - 03:37pm PT
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Bengston was right.
We should just grid bolt everything.
Safety first! Adventure can take care of itself.
Have a nice day.
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pud
climber
Sportbikeville
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Jul 17, 2009 - 03:37pm PT
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jeez Baba wrong side of bed this morning?
I just think it's lazy. that's all.
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Layaway Plan
Trad climber
East of the Valley
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Jul 17, 2009 - 03:38pm PT
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People get rained off Cathedral Peak all the time as well.... That's why you look at the sky or the forecast before you climb a mountain.
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kev
climber
CA
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Jul 17, 2009 - 03:38pm PT
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Me thinks this is a troll. Why spray about a rap line on Lembert?
That seems the fastest way to get it chopped. Plus we'd prolly have heard of this already - i.e someone would have heard the drilling there for sure.
kev
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Jul 17, 2009 - 03:42pm PT
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Mad Bolter, someone said you're 76 years old.
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sneville
climber
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Jul 17, 2009 - 04:11pm PT
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Just did this route last sat(7/11). and walked off. Awesome route. While you are adding rappel stations can you please move the anchor bolts at the end of the 4th pitch ten feet to the right. Who ever put them where they are now must have been on acid or hated their second. As of sat I did not see any new stuff.
Sean
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Jul 17, 2009 - 04:17pm PT
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"We should just bulldoze all these mountains down so we can all be safe."
Mark Wilford (I think)
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HighDesertDJ
Trad climber
Arid-zona
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Jul 17, 2009 - 04:19pm PT
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MY ETHICS
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Jul 17, 2009 - 04:26pm PT
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"People get rained off Cathedral Peak all the time as well..."
Cathedral Peak has plenty of cracks and tree to rap off off. Lembert has mostly blank knobby face
Geez, it's a done next to the parking lot, how much bolt protected 5 minute approach adventure you guys want to preserve?
peace
Karl
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kev
climber
CA
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Jul 17, 2009 - 04:28pm PT
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While you're at it please add a few bolts to left water crack, and put rap station on Northwest Books
kev
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HighDesertDJ
Trad climber
Arid-zona
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Jul 17, 2009 - 04:33pm PT
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Cathedral had rap anchors. Bill Russel offered a couple SAR guys $20 per bolt if they chopped them and brought them back to him. They hadn't done the route before and eager for some beer money they ran up there. After getting lost on the way there they finally climbed the route, got to the summit and then were too scared to do the downclimb......so they used the rap bolts and went home empty-handed.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jul 17, 2009 - 04:35pm PT
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It's not a troll.
"MAD BOLTER" = Tom Rohrer, who established the rappel route on The Nose in around 1970.
My friend Sharon saw this rappel route being established last week/weekend.
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kev
climber
CA
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Jul 17, 2009 - 05:20pm PT
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WTF is the community becoming? Guess this is why I'm out in the middle of the sierras climbing.
kev
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Jul 17, 2009 - 05:23pm PT
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kev, nothing to do with the climbing community, just with the recreational rappelling community (Tom Rohrer).
We'll see if these get chopped or not.
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