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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Jul 30, 2009 - 08:21pm PT
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Maybe it's more Shias and Sunnis.
FYI: I just Deleted reference to Falkenstein in one of my posts much higher on this thread since I thought it was his route but I guess it was Bruce Morris and some others who put it up. Sorry!
Peace
Karl
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kev
climber
CA
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Jul 30, 2009 - 08:27pm PT
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Damn it Karl,
Now I've got to go think about the Shias and Sunnis bolting ethics! Wait what about the Kurds?....
cheers,
kev
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goatboy smellz
climber
लघिमा, co
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Jul 30, 2009 - 09:45pm PT
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Who knew the naming of the route was very apropos.
whaaa...
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blr
climber
socal
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Jul 30, 2009 - 11:57pm PT
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"-For those who make these bad arguments, would you be okay with a new bolted rap route down the B-Y...
"There are well bolted sport routes very near the B-Y already."
Is "very near" the same thing as ON? Can you clip these "very near" bolts that are on separate routes while climbing B-Y?
How long has this route existed for? How many people have died from lack of the new rap anchors? If you're worried about the weather, two ropes will easily get you off this climb without the new anchors.
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Norwegian
Trad climber
Placerville, California
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Jul 28, 2010 - 05:46pm PT
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?? but this reminds me i need to get my overworked arse up to sugarloaf and chop those pesky bolts next to the crack.
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the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
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Jul 28, 2010 - 05:50pm PT
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drama..
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Jul 28, 2010 - 05:54pm PT
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The hangers were removed last year. Pretty sure the bolts have been dealt with but regardless there's a local takin care of the situation...
kev
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Jul 28, 2010 - 06:32pm PT
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People would be talking, " This is kev from ST who chopped those pussy bolts, he is real man"
BWHAAAAAaaAHHaahahahA!!!!!
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Jul 28, 2010 - 07:21pm PT
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Mucci,
It's amazing what one can accomplish with a simple adjustable wrench ;)
kev
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Jul 28, 2010 - 08:39pm PT
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Dave,
It's my understanding that he talked to someone from YMS AFTER they were installed and he was told that it was BOGUS. This is all old news though - not really a point in rehashing - they've been gone a while. And if they return I'm sure the hangers will be relocated and put to good use.
kev
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bergbryce
Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
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Jul 28, 2010 - 09:05pm PT
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well there goes the commitment aspect of this route. I think past 3rd or 4th pitch you were committed otherwise bailing off your own gear. sucky.
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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If the hangers were removed and the bolts left, than a total pussy thief stole them.
If the bolts were removed and holes patched it's cool.
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bergbryce
Mountain climber
Oakland
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I climbed this on Saturday (July 31, 2010)...
While linking the last two pitches, there is a runout section where my partner said an anchor has been chopped, before the 10a variation finish. I was looking around for the next bolt and only saw the anchors off to the left (maybe 15', for the 5.9 R finish?) and another bolt probably 20' up. It was pretty easy ground but a bit runout to the first in that string of bolts. Which all appear to be buttonheads.
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Greg Barnes,
were the closely placed bolts chopped? It's reasonable to speculate
chipped holds at that very vertical section, though 3 point contact
was possible. If so how many are left? I don't know anything about the recent retrobolted rap route (and its apparent chopping?), other than what I posted a while back, namely that I removed an old 1/4" bolt with Leeper at the big ledge before the crux pitch around 1999 or so - the bolt was right next to a bomber crack, and people were rappelling off the single bolt.
I assume you mean the tightly bolted 5.9 section of the 4th pitch? Or are you talking about the 10a finish (the "McDevitt finish")? If you are talking about the 4th pitch, the bolts were original, and replaced by SAR folks around 1998. I do not think there is any evidence to support any chipping or anything, that was simply a tightly bolted section from the first ascent.
As far as bolting, in my experience it is not "reasonable to speculate" in any case. That's how so many bolt debates get started - with misinformation based upon speculation, instead of facts!
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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The hangers were removed by a local who initially didn't have the tools to remove the bolts (he found then and only had a wrench-wasn't planning on seing new anchors...people don't climb with an expectation to see retro bolts). Since then the bolts have been properly taken care of. Not really sure why this thread is still going but....
kev
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Greg,
I just realized I hadn't pushed the 'post to reply' button, just pushed it and saw your post (i.e read my post as posted before yours). Anyhow I think the comment directed at you is a troll.
kev
EDIT
No it is a troll...
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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I think Weld_It could help here. He could weld up some bolt/hanger combinations that would be really hard to remove. Maybe with some kind of flange in different colors, so that gym weenies could clip everything but if you only clip the green botls, you must have real balls of steel.
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