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ChirpioBartholomew
Boulder climber
Dixon
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 21, 2009 - 08:14pm PT
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Someone finished setting up the rap route for doubled 70m ropes two plus years ago. The longest was 115' shortest was 115'. More specifics with anchor photos in other threads. Two rappels get you to the base of the East Wall. The anchors were are all equiped with chains. That is, until "The Chopper" (aka: Salamizer) stole the chains at the top of the 2nd rappel and removed the 1st rappel anchors. One bolt with a single piton remain at the 1st rappel (leaver slings may be required).
I presume you know this is an on going rap route. And will be there FOREVER (noted by one rappeler). It may however go away for a short time as some will do there best to remove other's efforts (The Chopper, Norwegian, kev, etc...).
This rappel route is not the longest at the leap but provides great fun for all you rappeling enthusiasts. Spectacular views of the surrounding area.
Occasionally climbers can be seen near by. A nice ledge is encountered after the 1st rappel making for a nice place for an afternoon snack (we sure did).
Watch for climbers below! And have fun!
Some quotes:
"that way the yahoo's drunk on cultural excess" Norwegian
"That seems the fastest way" kev
"Safety first! Adventure can take care of itself." Captain...or Skully
"someone said" Footloose
"scared to do the downclimb......so they used the rap bolts and went home" HighDesertDJ
"Careful, gang - I believe that Chouinard may have started as a rappeller, something to do with birds maybe." Mighty Hiker
"nothing to do with the climbing community, just with the recreational rappelling community" Greg Barnes
"for *recreational rappelling* .....resource that must be shared; sport-rappelers represent one possible use of park space" gooth
"something that would make for exciting sportrappelling." Kurt Ettinger
"I like using the Grand Wazoo anchors to rappel from the Central Pillar of Frenzy" Clint Cummins
"I'm happy enough to only have to take one rope now. Maybe it's just me, but I don't need every outing to be a trad adventure with minimum convenience." Karl Baba
Chirpio
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
way, WAY out there....(OMG)
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Jul 21, 2009 - 08:33pm PT
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Misquotes maybe......Mine was tongue in cheek, an attempt to wake your poor dumb ass up.
I live too far away to even be involved in this silly dispute.
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Jul 21, 2009 - 08:37pm PT
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Good to see you've dropped the pretense that this was a 35 year old traditionally protected climbing route.
Fandango, remember?
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Jul 21, 2009 - 08:47pm PT
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This rappel route is not the longest at the leap but provides great fun for all you rappeling enthusiasts. Spectacular views of the surrounding area.
Occasionally climbers can be seen near by. A nice ledge is encountered after the 1st rappel making for a nice place for an afternoon snack (we sure did).
This has to be a (T1) troll.
You're going to indulge a "rappeling route" for schmuck recreational rappelers on a free wall that is established as a "climbers wall".
F*#ked up, dude! Chop away boyz!
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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Jul 21, 2009 - 08:51pm PT
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Caughtinside has got them by the BALLS!!!!!1111666
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kev
climber
CA
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Jul 21, 2009 - 09:02pm PT
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Hey Chirpy,
Kinda funny how you call me a chopper and misquote me...Not so bright are we little birdy?
Anyhow we were sitting around a campfire (as usual) this weekend when someone said how excited they were about the rap route. They figured they would wander buy a few times a year and snag what they needed - so by all means supply us with gear!
kev
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hoipolloi
climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
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Jul 22, 2009 - 01:39am PT
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your an idiot.
Next time I am there I am bringing a BB gun and shooting you in the ass while you rap off your dumb lazy f*#king rap route.
edit:
why do you seem to be the only person who promotes this, while everyone else knocks it? get a clue?
retard....
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kev
climber
CA
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Jul 22, 2009 - 03:42am PT
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Gerbils,
Hmmmm, whatcha gonna do with the pin anchors? Do you know how to use them? Also, FYI, you won't be able to rap in so I guess you've got to climb the routes..
have fun
:)
me
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Norwegian
Trad climber
Placerville, California
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Jul 22, 2009 - 08:34am PT
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its gone. its gone and nothing's gonna bring it back...
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Jul 22, 2009 - 09:44am PT
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Gerbil: Why would you rap a route 5 times in a day, just curious? Seriously you just rap, don't climb? Plenty of places to do that without having to add bolts right? I don't live in Cali but by taunting these guys who have been climbing there forever and adding bolts where general concensus says none should be, seems like you are looking for a confrontation and/or getting your ass vandalized.
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Norwegian
Trad climber
Placerville, California
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Jul 22, 2009 - 09:47am PT
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....nothin's gone bring it back. she's gone.
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Norwegian
Trad climber
Placerville, California
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Jul 22, 2009 - 10:00am PT
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your drama here goes just beyond the end of your nose.
no farther.
i'll be around and around.
maybe confrontation will build itself.
that's fine, i'll play along.
still though,
reality will plow forward. with devotedness.
are you holdin on to the leash im pullin?
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Norwegian
Trad climber
Placerville, California
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Jul 22, 2009 - 10:15am PT
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um,
i've one other order of business before i get to your purse.
god requested a confrontation.
soon as i kick her out of heaven and redirect eternity,
i'll get to your purse.
be patient son.
for now, maybe take a walk... up and down the descent trail so that you may learn the path of the warrior.
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kev
climber
CA
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Jul 22, 2009 - 01:26pm PT
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We will all get along when you stop adding rap anchors to existing lines. Seriously you knew people would get their panties in a bunch over this. You did it and posted up on THIS forum where you'd be sure to get attention. Christ, why not just do it and keep your trap shut? Pretty obvious you wanted to stir sh#t up and get attention.
I'm done commenting on this. You know my view point and you know that they will continue to get chopped. It will be a war of attrition but eventually you'll loose unless the only place you climb is the leap and then the war will be a draw if you have the $ to keep buying bolts & chains.
kev
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ChirpioBartholomew
Boulder climber
Dixon
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 22, 2009 - 01:36pm PT
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For more great rap routes see the Exiting Lost Arrow Spire Notch Post here and the CRYIN' TIME RAP ROUTE Post here.
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Jul 22, 2009 - 02:27pm PT
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Heed the words of Walling:
I've got you by the balls!! By the balls!!11666
And ditto what Kev said. Stop advertising your retro work.
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The Wedge
Boulder climber
Bishop, CA
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Jul 22, 2009 - 02:58pm PT
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Yo heading the Leap today. Going to meet the GF at the campground and climb on Thursday. WIll be there around 7pm tonight. Look for the YELLOW Subaru.
Show me your torque wrench and crow bar and get a FREE BEER. Pull that SH8t!!!
Honestly how far is the walk down from the east wall...Maybe 10 minutes....I will take a walk off over a reppell anyday....especically one with a spring. L8er -e
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
way, WAY out there....(OMG)
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Jul 22, 2009 - 03:36pm PT
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This troll NEEDS a bridge.....And a billy goat gruff!
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Johns_dog
Social climber
Sacramento, CA
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Jul 22, 2009 - 04:40pm PT
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I actually like the new anchor at the top of P1 of Fandango. You can do the first/best pitch rap down and move on. You get a ton more climbing in without having to walk off. It's on a huge F--in' ledge. How does that equal "retro-ing a old trad route"? I know MANY new anchors added in the last 10 years all over the Tahoe area just for getting down quick so to get in more climbing. Should all those be chopped too?
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