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James Durbin
Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 31, 2003 - 12:15pm PT
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Just thinking about the direct route to Lost Arrow spire, and wondering if there is a way to get out of the notch other then jugging fixed ropes (which you have to place before hand). i have heard of a Roher(?) rappel route that goes from the notch down to near the base of Lost Arrow direct. is this rappel route really there, and if so what is it like? Thanks alot.
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WBraun
climber
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Jan 31, 2003 - 11:05pm PT
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Roher rappel route exists! I've rappelled it about 4 or 5 times, straight down to the base. Cheers, Werner Braun Yosemite Valley
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Hey:
Sometime during the 70s a team climbed the LA Chimney and were counting on friends to have left ropes from the tree on the brink, opposite the spire. The friends didn't come through and the team nailed out of the notch at A3, 5.8, as I remember. In the several times I've rapped into the notch, I recall the rock being pretty sketchy, with some big loose flakes--but so far as I know one can escape that way if need be and providing you have the hardware. An old guidebook probably mentions this route.
JL
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Walt Shipley free-climbed out of the notch. It involved some 10c off-width.
Peace
Karl
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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anyone have an updated topo of the Roher rap route out of the notch?
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BASE666
Gym climber
Yosemite Park Ranger
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do you mean exit as it jump from the Lost Arrow Spire?
I'll be waiting at the bottom with my posse
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scooter
climber
fist clamp
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A friend and I, free climbed out of the notch after climbing the Lost Arrow Chimney. It was hard. The initial face climbing was runout and there is a difficult OW as well. I would have trouble rating it though, because we just climbed a hard route and were tired.
Patrick
ps
there are loose rocks, I got hit in the back of the neck with one.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Ed,
Unfortunately, I did not get on the rappel route with Tom Rohrer in August as originally planned. The high temps didn't help, and Tom was not quite in shape then. He's in better shape now, and I should be hearing from him in the next few days to see if we will get onto it this September.
In the meantime, the best I can do is this table of rappel lengths and directions to each anchor from Tom:
A typical anchor should look like this at present:
(This is my photo of his original anchor halfway down from the rim to the notch, taken in July).
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lostinshanghai
Social climber
someplace
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Rap line to be upgraded in next couple of weeks providing it is a cooler, Tom is ready. 7-8 new ss.
Also have map. Need to get it back from other source so should have in next couple days and will post. Trick is you need to go to the right a couple of steps.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jul 21, 2009 - 01:48am PT
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I talked to Tom Rohrer tonight on the phone, and he told me the Lost Arrow notch rappel route (from the notch down to the base of the wall) has been upgraded. One bolt and chain added to each anchor. The old bolts were still good, so they did not need to be removed. He has a topo for it which should be posted at some point.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Jul 21, 2009 - 09:33am PT
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I don't understand the confusion.
The Reid guide even has the topo for the Notch to Rim route. It is 5.10 A2 or 5.10d, three pitches, the first being the only one that is harder, is described as "loose". (page 158).
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Scared Silly
Trad climber
UT
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Jul 21, 2009 - 10:07am PT
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Have to agree with Peter. I did the tip years ago and remember reading about the route from the notch to the rim. Seem to recall that it is to the right of the notch as you face the wall.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jul 21, 2009 - 03:36pm PT
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Scott Davis of Heart Route fame and Dave Calfee put up the exit from the notch when the very same MAD BOLTER failed to set ropes into the notch as had been their collective arrangement.
Scott is a writer and wrote an excellent short story about the ensuing adventure in Lost Arrow and Other True Stories which he self published as Cune. Contact him and buy the book if the story catches your imagination. I don't post certain stories if doing so would hurt sales of the original publication as is the case here.
Scott lives in Seattle.
http://www.cunepress.com/cunepress/ordering/nonfiction-literary/508-lostarrow.htm
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Climbing dropout
Trad climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jul 21, 2009 - 04:47pm PT
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Your selling yourself short on an experience of a life time if you don't find a friend to toss you a rope down into the notch to facilitate the Tyrolean off the tip.
Thanks again to Tami who made it possible for us to learn how to do a tyrolean, or at best how not to do a tyrolean
Try bribing someone in camp 4 maybe ... I hear drugs are popular in California and about to become legal so the state can become solvent again.
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JakeW
Big Wall climber
CA
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Jul 22, 2009 - 10:02am PT
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Yeah, Scooties and I made it out of there. The night before we went up, there was a slackline, so we figured we'd grunt up the chimney and poach the walk. By the time we made it, the line was gone, so.... It was all schnizzly and hard. I dogged through .10a lichen hands, and decided I was aiding. I couldn't protect myself and keep ropedrag down simultaneously, so we ended up doing a weird belay off a sketch bolt right below the .10d. I attemted to murder Pat by kicking a giant's dinner plate off the wall, but it didn't even knock him out...although it did severely limit his brain function for a bit. The only way through the .10d, with the gear we had, was by freeing it...I remember it being a wide bottomed out slot with kitty litter smeared all over. I've always wanted to go back and redpoint this proj since its kind of a rad big wall, but for some reason other things have been more appealing....
When's someone going to replace the bolts in the chimney? I don't like those siamese quarter inchers at the crux!
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FreeClimberDude
Trad climber
CA
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Jul 22, 2009 - 12:26pm PT
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Aye the crux LAChimney bolts need some lovin!
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Jul 22, 2009 - 01:14pm PT
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"... It was too noisy to communicate, but we knew he was going to be a no-show on top. We rapped down the chimney and found out later that night that he had meet up with some climbers who told him the idea was stupid and that he could never throw his little line, tied to a stick, over to us on the spire.
You know, they were probably right. And this is just one of the many embarrassing stories from my many trips to the valley. "
Seems true but the first ascent of the spire was done by throwing a rope over it and jugging up the other side. That must have felt pretty sketch
Peace
Karl
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ChirpioBartholomew
Boulder climber
Dixon
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Jul 22, 2009 - 01:33pm PT
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For more great rap routes see the Lovers Leap East Wall Rappel Route Post here.
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Jul 22, 2009 - 01:47pm PT
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In the early 70's Andy Embick rope soloed out of the notch after Roy Nazz broke his leg and was stuck on Salathe ledge.
He told me the year after or so that it was really rotten and scary but about 5.8 A2.(old school with pins)and that the run down the trail to get help about did him in.
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dickcilley
Social climber
Wisteria Ln.
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Jul 23, 2009 - 04:09am PT
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Climbing out of the notch is full value.Don't miss it.And leave those bolts alone.It's not a sport route.Classic spot where your technique need be your protection.Not many of those left.
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