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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 13, 2009 - 03:03pm PT
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Howdy all, just some notes from the last week of climbing up at Lover's Leap!
First, Epitaph, a 5.10c on Tombstone ledge has been rebolted. 3 1/4" bolts with leeper hangers pulled and replaced with bomber 3/8" stainless. It's a good quality route that starts up a well protected crack and then pulls a series of small rooflets. Finish on a ledge and rap off slung blocks 30' left or continue up grungy climbing to the top. 20 feet left of Tombstone Terror, safe lead, go give it a run!
A climber decked off the first pitch of the Line on Friday. Word is, he took on a 'fixed' nut he had clipped with a single biner at the first crux, 20 feet up. Popped when he took on it, and he went to the deck. 911 called, 7 emergency vehicles were in the lot and 2 choppers scrambled. I'm happy to say the climber was able to limp out, best wishes to him for a speedy recovery!
Rumor has it, that while he was lying injured at the base, another climber came up, said 'hey, that's my nut, I got it stuck yesterday' and took it back! Classy!
Also, my new Fish Products Fashion Smasher pack has been a huge hit, guys and gals alike love my Ocelot print straps. An Austrian tried to buy it from me on Main Ledge!! "Zee Fish doez not ship to Europe, yes?" Sorry my friend, he's got you by the balls! You can't have one.
As usual, the booty haul was high: Scored two quicks, a biner, a sling, some cord, an atc and a digital camera. If you lost a digital camera wednesday somewhere on Main Ledge, drop me a line and I'll get it back to you, the rest I'm keeping. Lost: one #11 HB offset that flew off the biner and over my shoulder after a quick funk-clean, that sailed down onto Petch and the party he was guiding below. Sorry Petch!
The rain saturday afternoon was fairly heavy and cleared the crag and filled the bar, saw lots of soggy climbers stagger in. If dining there, I personally recommend the Southwest Chicken Sandwich.
Looked like everyone was having a great time up there, ran into lots of friendly and familiar faces.
While I"m thinking about it, does anyone know if p2 of Nirvana takes gear, or just bolts?
Viva la Leap!
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Norwegian
Trad climber
Placerville, California
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Jul 13, 2009 - 03:27pm PT
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i always slot (2) pieces at that early crux. for reasons stated above.
best wishes for a full recovery.
please practice redundancy when the level of reliance escalates.
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P.Kingsbury
Trad climber
the jeep
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Jul 13, 2009 - 03:33pm PT
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thanks for posting up!
the leap is cool!
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Jul 13, 2009 - 03:34pm PT
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whoa? what's going on with your rope there Norweigan?
Soloing with bites or something?
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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Jul 13, 2009 - 03:45pm PT
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Nice TR.. wish I was there!!!
Cheers
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turd ferguson
climber
your moms house, california
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Jul 13, 2009 - 04:00pm PT
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just spent my first weekend at the leap, hopefully i wont have to wait long to get back. met a bunch of super friendly people and got on some awsome stone. hope to see everyone up there soon.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Jul 13, 2009 - 06:02pm PT
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Poor guy, hope he is okay! I watched 3 parties over the span of 2 days "Take" their way up the LIne. Reduculous, Not only is it dangerous with a new leader and their ability to make good placements, but it is very poor style.
I recall 2 other times where climbers decked off of the line by "Taking" at the 1st piece of pro. That placement is good at best and seems to be equalizing the field every year.
Re-claiming a piece of gear during a rescue situation is total Bullshit! A good slap sounds like it was in order.
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ralph the klimber
Gym climber
ralph town
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Jul 13, 2009 - 06:22pm PT
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mucci, who gives a sh#t what you think
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Jul 13, 2009 - 06:36pm PT
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Ralphy, your back, still working hard on that bolt mod? You should do some more climbing, you are a very angry person. Introduce yourself when you see me, maybe we can do some climbing or drinking or ranting?
Mucci
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Jul 13, 2009 - 06:50pm PT
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mucci, who gives a sh#t what you think
Uh, this IS a forum! People tend to offer their insights and opinions.
I though mucci's observations were spot on. Were you the dude asking for his nut back from the decked out climber?
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msiddens
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Jul 13, 2009 - 07:42pm PT
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Nice one Bluering. Very true but still sad. With that being said though.....it seems greedy to me. Heck when I bail off something or can't clean the gear its no longer mine. Instead, it becomes BOOTY. Don't confuse it with scoring with the sweeter sex.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jul 13, 2009 - 07:50pm PT
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Caughtinside, what geographic region are you callin 'home" these days? PKing has reminded us that his sphere of influence eminates from "the Jeep." Are you "from" the Van? Saw you training in the Fish compund™ but nobody claims 29 Palms or even, Davis as "home" in July!
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
way, WAY out there....(OMG)
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Jul 13, 2009 - 07:51pm PT
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I like the Leap....What a cool wall, with the multitude of dikes.
Sweet.
EKat, I would like to see your ropebag dealey, maybe?
Gracias'.......
Davis!...."I pity the fool".Man.
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 13, 2009 - 08:15pm PT
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Howdy Jaybro!
I am indeed from The Van, although I am half time at my girlfriends place in Berkeley. Probably be in the Sierra for the next couple months, unless I find a job first.
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kev
climber
CA
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Jul 13, 2009 - 08:28pm PT
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Mucci,
Did you sleep with Ralph's girlfriend or something?
Ralph,
Wow what a comment, very very on topic....Have you considered seeking professional help? It appears to be in order.
kev
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
Vacaville Ca,
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Jul 13, 2009 - 08:43pm PT
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Nice TR...
Rained at the Leap huh! Good thing I decided last minute to head to the Valley instead. Weather was nice on Middle Cathedral on Saturday and perfect in Tuolumne on Sunday.
The second pitch of Nirvana takes gear, but you don't really need it. Not that I can remember anyway, I do remember it was kinda lame though. Go do Big Thunder instead, that's a good one...(Hint - Green Alien).
Props on the re-bolting. Time consuming, difficult and costly job that is.
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 13, 2009 - 09:02pm PT
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Big Thunder looks SICK! Do you take the first pitch of Corrugation to get up there? Looks steep and hard. There's some kind of rap station around there, slings on a spike, I hadn't seen before.
Which reminds me, the new replacement steel in Epitaph is courtesy of the ASCA, so thanks to all who have donated. Sure is a lot of work though, my calves were screaming humping all that jingus up there.
I'm also on the lookout for a Petch route, Old Man and His Arete. If you know where it is/have beta I'd appreciate it. and Deep Space?
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Jul 13, 2009 - 09:26pm PT
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Caught, I have vaguely heard of the Old man, must have been done a while back. The Petch/Gable route "A boy and his arete" was done quite a while ago as well. I would be interested in hearing info.
Old man route could just possibly be a 3 on Coilers obscurity rating, "Probably been climbed, never reported, no trace of ascent is left"
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factortwo
Social climber
Placerville, ca
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Jul 13, 2009 - 09:33pm PT
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I also put in two nuts right below the first crux.
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
Vacaville Ca,
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Jul 13, 2009 - 10:01pm PT
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Yeah, first pitch of corrugation then bust left up some easy overhanging stuff and belay from a nice perch behind a huge flake where you saw that webbing anchor. It's a delicate face crack system (no easy feat .11b??) to under the roof. Some powerful moves and a pumpy undercling around the roof to big jugs with a pump. I actually heelhooked for the first time, that was cool. Good bolts and all that. Have the second follow to avoid cleaning which is a PITA.
Old Man and his Arete?? Isn't that the bolted arete just to the right of the first pitch of the Hourglass? The chossy one down low no one would ever climb accept my dumb ass, not the one on the upper ledge.
Deep Space is on the other side of the Box from where Dog Party and all that is. Dirty chossy pile that thing is.
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