Notes from the Leap

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caughtinside

Social climber

Davis, CA

Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 13, 2009 - 03:03pm PT

Howdy all, just some notes from the last week of climbing up at Lover's Leap!

First, Epitaph, a 5.10c on Tombstone ledge has been rebolted. 3 1/4" bolts with leeper hangers pulled and replaced with bomber 3/8" stainless. It's a good quality route that starts up a well protected crack and then pulls a series of small rooflets. Finish on a ledge and rap off slung blocks 30' left or continue up grungy climbing to the top. 20 feet left of Tombstone Terror, safe lead, go give it a run!

A climber decked off the first pitch of the Line on Friday. Word is, he took on a 'fixed' nut he had clipped with a single biner at the first crux, 20 feet up. Popped when he took on it, and he went to the deck. 911 called, 7 emergency vehicles were in the lot and 2 choppers scrambled. I'm happy to say the climber was able to limp out, best wishes to him for a speedy recovery!

Rumor has it, that while he was lying injured at the base, another climber came up, said 'hey, that's my nut, I got it stuck yesterday' and took it back! Classy!

Also, my new Fish Products Fashion Smasher pack has been a huge hit, guys and gals alike love my Ocelot print straps. An Austrian tried to buy it from me on Main Ledge!! "Zee Fish doez not ship to Europe, yes?" Sorry my friend, he's got you by the balls! You can't have one.

As usual, the booty haul was high: Scored two quicks, a biner, a sling, some cord, an atc and a digital camera. If you lost a digital camera wednesday somewhere on Main Ledge, drop me a line and I'll get it back to you, the rest I'm keeping. Lost: one #11 HB offset that flew off the biner and over my shoulder after a quick funk-clean, that sailed down onto Petch and the party he was guiding below. Sorry Petch!

The rain saturday afternoon was fairly heavy and cleared the crag and filled the bar, saw lots of soggy climbers stagger in. If dining there, I personally recommend the Southwest Chicken Sandwich.

Looked like everyone was having a great time up there, ran into lots of friendly and familiar faces.

While I"m thinking about it, does anyone know if p2 of Nirvana takes gear, or just bolts?

Viva la Leap!

Norwegian

Trad climber

Placerville, California

Jul 13, 2009 - 03:27pm PT

i always slot (2) pieces at that early crux. for reasons stated above.

best wishes for a full recovery.

please practice redundancy when the level of reliance escalates.

P.Kingsbury

Trad climber

the jeep

Jul 13, 2009 - 03:33pm PT

thanks for posting up!

the leap is cool!

Lambone

Ice climber

Ashland, Or

Jul 13, 2009 - 03:34pm PT

whoa? what's going on with your rope there Norweigan?

Soloing with bites or something?

Jingy

Social climber

Flatland, Ca

Jul 13, 2009 - 03:45pm PT

Nice TR.. wish I was there!!!

Cheers

turd ferguson

climber

your moms house, california

Jul 13, 2009 - 04:00pm PT

just spent my first weekend at the leap, hopefully i wont have to wait long to get back. met a bunch of super friendly people and got on some awsome stone. hope to see everyone up there soon.

mucci

Trad climber

The pitch of Bagalaar above you

Jul 13, 2009 - 06:02pm PT

Poor guy, hope he is okay! I watched 3 parties over the span of 2 days "Take" their way up the LIne. Reduculous, Not only is it dangerous with a new leader and their ability to make good placements, but it is very poor style.

I recall 2 other times where climbers decked off of the line by "Taking" at the 1st piece of pro. That placement is good at best and seems to be equalizing the field every year.

Re-claiming a piece of gear during a rescue situation is total Bullshit! A good slap sounds like it was in order.

ralph the klimber

Gym climber

ralph town

Jul 13, 2009 - 06:22pm PT

mucci, who gives a sh#t what you think

mucci

Trad climber

The pitch of Bagalaar above you

Jul 13, 2009 - 06:36pm PT

Ralphy, your back, still working hard on that bolt mod? You should do some more climbing, you are a very angry person. Introduce yourself when you see me, maybe we can do some climbing or drinking or ranting?
Mucci

bluering

Trad climber

Santa Clara, Ca.

Jul 13, 2009 - 06:50pm PT

mucci, who gives a sh#t what you think

Uh, this IS a forum! People tend to offer their insights and opinions.

I though mucci's observations were spot on. Were you the dude asking for his nut back from the decked out climber?

msiddens

Trad climber

Mountain View, CA

Jul 13, 2009 - 07:42pm PT

Nice one Bluering. Very true but still sad. With that being said though.....it seems greedy to me. Heck when I bail off something or can't clean the gear its no longer mine. Instead, it becomes BOOTY. Don't confuse it with scoring with the sweeter sex.

Jaybro

Social climber

Wolf City, Wyoming

Jul 13, 2009 - 07:50pm PT

Caughtinside, what geographic region are you callin 'home" these days? PKing has reminded us that his sphere of influence eminates from "the Jeep." Are you "from" the Van? Saw you training in the Fish compund™ but nobody claims 29 Palms or even, Davis as "home" in July!

Captain...or Skully

Social climber

way, WAY out there....(OMG)

Jul 13, 2009 - 07:51pm PT

I like the Leap....What a cool wall, with the multitude of dikes.
Sweet.
EKat, I would like to see your ropebag dealey, maybe?
Gracias'.......
Davis!...."I pity the fool".Man.

caughtinside

Social climber

Davis, CA

Topic Author's Reply - Jul 13, 2009 - 08:15pm PT

Howdy Jaybro!

I am indeed from The Van, although I am half time at my girlfriends place in Berkeley. Probably be in the Sierra for the next couple months, unless I find a job first.

kev

climber

Jul 13, 2009 - 08:28pm PT

Mucci,

Did you sleep with Ralph's girlfriend or something?

Ralph,

Wow what a comment, very very on topic....Have you considered seeking professional help? It appears to be in order.

kev

Salamanizer

Trad climber

Vacaville Ca,

Jul 13, 2009 - 08:43pm PT

Nice TR...

Rained at the Leap huh! Good thing I decided last minute to head to the Valley instead. Weather was nice on Middle Cathedral on Saturday and perfect in Tuolumne on Sunday.

The second pitch of Nirvana takes gear, but you don't really need it. Not that I can remember anyway, I do remember it was kinda lame though. Go do Big Thunder instead, that's a good one...(Hint - Green Alien).

Props on the re-bolting. Time consuming, difficult and costly job that is.

caughtinside

Social climber

Davis, CA

Topic Author's Reply - Jul 13, 2009 - 09:02pm PT

Big Thunder looks SICK! Do you take the first pitch of Corrugation to get up there? Looks steep and hard. There's some kind of rap station around there, slings on a spike, I hadn't seen before.

Which reminds me, the new replacement steel in Epitaph is courtesy of the ASCA, so thanks to all who have donated. Sure is a lot of work though, my calves were screaming humping all that jingus up there.

I'm also on the lookout for a Petch route, Old Man and His Arete. If you know where it is/have beta I'd appreciate it. and Deep Space?

mucci

Trad climber

The pitch of Bagalaar above you

Jul 13, 2009 - 09:26pm PT

Caught, I have vaguely heard of the Old man, must have been done a while back. The Petch/Gable route "A boy and his arete" was done quite a while ago as well. I would be interested in hearing info.

Old man route could just possibly be a 3 on Coilers obscurity rating, "Probably been climbed, never reported, no trace of ascent is left"

factortwo

Social climber

Placerville, ca

Jul 13, 2009 - 09:33pm PT

I also put in two nuts right below the first crux.

Salamanizer

Trad climber

Vacaville Ca,

Jul 13, 2009 - 10:01pm PT

Yeah, first pitch of corrugation then bust left up some easy overhanging stuff and belay from a nice perch behind a huge flake where you saw that webbing anchor. It's a delicate face crack system (no easy feat .11b??) to under the roof. Some powerful moves and a pumpy undercling around the roof to big jugs with a pump. I actually heelhooked for the first time, that was cool. Good bolts and all that. Have the second follow to avoid cleaning which is a PITA.

Old Man and his Arete?? Isn't that the bolted arete just to the right of the first pitch of the Hourglass? The chossy one down low no one would ever climb accept my dumb ass, not the one on the upper ledge.

Deep Space is on the other side of the Box from where Dog Party and all that is. Dirty chossy pile that thing is.

oldcragster

Gym climber

Jul 13, 2009 - 10:44pm PT

sorry to hear about accident, don't understand the 'take' thing so close to ground...understand the bar thing cause of thundershowers. The Line was the scene of much yelling in the early 70's. old-timers used it to practice placing pitons for aid, probably prior to hitting the Valley. anyway, we young ones began switching to nuts only and the Leap, esp. the Line, was perfect for the wedge shaped chocks/nuts. So we see, and hear, the old guard nailing away and we would yell at them to stop...use nuts, save the rock. They yelled back obscenities, but within a year it was over and nuts ruled.

Footloose

Trad climber

Lake Tahoe

Jul 13, 2009 - 11:06pm PT

The word at the Leap today from someone who eyewitnessed the fall from the Pony Express trail and then rushed to help was that the leader was backing down from the crux, lost his purchase, kind of pushed back, off the rock, and this popped the single nut.

I'm totally in line with Norwegian (and his picture). I've never climbed the Line (about six times) without sinking two bomber pieces in that pre-crux slot. (first in, a nut, and a cam above that, with slings of course) In fact, one of my "middle names" climbing is RADA (Redundancy Above Deck Always)... it was inspired about 12 years ago, as a newbie, seeing a guy hanging / taking... so casually... on one nut at that very location above all those shards at the base.

Checked out Epitaph today after seeing somebody's note at the Bulletin Board. Almost got on it but at the time was unclear about the terminus.

P.S. There's some fine booty this evening on Surreal Direct, Var A. Yes, we missed a nut, an easy grab, we were all too lazy to get back up there and get it. It's a big one, bomber placement, of course. Happy climbing!

caughtinside

Social climber

Davis, CA

Topic Author's Reply - Jul 14, 2009 - 12:01am PT

That's my note on the bulletin board, sorry I wasn't more clear about the end/how to get down.

The anchor as it stands really isn't that great, it's a slung block, about 25 or 30 feet left of the last bolt. I think originally, the route went up and topped out, but the climbing above that break 60 feet up is super blocky and grungy, I only gave it a cursory look.

Best bet is to climb up to the break, make the traverse, build a gear anchor then rap of the slings. The route could really use an independent bolt anchor, but that's another decision for another day...

Salamanizer, thanks for the info. I always wondered about the Old Man arete. I've looked at the Boy's Arete several times on the lower buttress, looks pretty cool.

Salamanizer

Trad climber

Vacaville Ca,

Jul 14, 2009 - 12:33am PT

Yeah, havn't done the Boy and his Arete thing. Did Strawbilly Tango once... WTF???

Had enough of that shit!

caughtinside

Social climber

Davis, CA

Topic Author's Reply - Jul 14, 2009 - 12:39am PT

ha ha! I remember walking by when you and Alex were trying it. Er... looked hard! hahaha!

kev

climber

Jul 14, 2009 - 12:51am PT

I've hear Eric mention the route with a snicker or time or two. Guess I should go get on another Gable Classic.....

kev

Salamanizer

Trad climber

Vacaville Ca,

Jul 14, 2009 - 02:35am PT

Hey, I didn't know Eric did that route. I kinda like Gable routes, just the right amount of spice.

mucci

Trad climber

The pitch of Bagalaar above you

Jul 14, 2009 - 02:48am PT

Gable routes = capsacin overload!

Where's the milk?

wilcox510

climber

Jul 14, 2009 - 11:03am PT

On a somewhat related note... What's the Leap like around the 1st of August? Too hot?? Can you seek shade there??

Hardman Knott

Gym climber

Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca

Jul 14, 2009 - 12:24pm PT

I seem to remember a bomber #4 or #5 stopper placement as the first piece on The Line.

It's knott obvious (hence all the bloodshed and mayhem), but it's there...

ChirpioBartholomew

Boulder climber

Dixon

Jul 14, 2009 - 12:52pm PT

New replacement steel on Fandango is courtesy of the ASCA. Thanks to all who have donated.

caughtinside

Social climber

Davis, CA

Topic Author's Reply - Jul 14, 2009 - 01:17pm PT

All this fuss over a lousy pile like fandango!

slobmonster

Trad climber

berkeley, ca

Jul 14, 2009 - 01:36pm PT

Is that a hammer-shut "chain link" serving as the rope-running surface? I hate those damn things. Much prefer the Fixe steel rings.

And why are those pitons still there?

mucci

Trad climber

The pitch of Bagalaar above you

Jul 14, 2009 - 01:54pm PT

Nice first Post Chirp

WhyCantGerbalsDrive

climber

Lee Vining, CA

Jul 14, 2009 - 02:27pm PT

chirpy,
those chains look manky, i doubt asca put those in.

ChirpioBartholomew

Boulder climber

Dixon

Jul 14, 2009 - 03:08pm PT

caughtinside - your opinion

Hardman Knott - I will submitted the info to safeclimbing.org

slobmonster - Yes, it's a hammer-shut. I also prefer the Fixe steel rings as does Salamanizer. The pins are still there because Salamanizer

mucci - thanks!

fattrad - Bolts are there for rapping! Similar to the bolts on top of Tombstone Terror ("Most climbers stop at the first anchor and rappel back to the ground. This is a great toprope with a 60m rope"), Hospital Corner, Better with Bacon, Traveler Buttress ("You can rap to the main ledge from the top of pitch 2 (i.e. the offwidth pitch) with a single 70m rope - it's a 110' rap").............

WhyCantGerbalsDrive- There are ASCA stamps on them

Greg Barnes

climber

Jul 14, 2009 - 03:51pm PT

We don't have any smash-links, and we very rarely use or send out chain (except for Moab area towers), so those are from someone's personal gear (at least the smash link). Fixe rap rings are super expensive now too, so we are really low/out of them.

What's up with those bolts? Pins driven into bolt holes? Cool! Or is there a crack I don't see? No easy way to pull so leave them for historical value...

james Colborn

Trad climber

Truckee, Ca

Jul 14, 2009 - 04:27pm PT

Just did that route two weeks ago. After all the hubbub on this site over the rap anchors. There were five or so pins in various spots in close proximity to where that anchor is, but those bolts were not there.

I thought fandango was fun. Long pitches and varried. I see why there were chains on that first pitch, it looks like a sweet feature forms up during the winter. It seems as though the route sees little traffic.

Greg, the bolts are in a huge block that has some small horizantal cracks where the pins are. One of the pins were fresh, I think a Leaper, still had broken rock around it and and the pounded steal still had no rust on it.

sDawg

climber

Jul 14, 2009 - 05:42pm PT

We left a number 1 camalot on surrealistic pillar direct on Sunday. We both feel bad about marring a classic route, so I'd love to know if/when someone gets it out (of course not expecting an offer of return). I followed, so I spent a while working on it, but eventually gave the route up to the party of 6 waiting at the bottom.

Also did the line on Saturday. I have a friend who took probably about the same fall (just before placing that piece, I think) and crushed his wrist. I found that I was a little sketched at that spot too. It's definitely the scariest part of the route and although I did have one piece in lower, by that point it may not have kept me off the ground. Not a good choice for a first/early 5.9 lead!

ChirpioBartholomew

Boulder climber

Dixon

Jul 14, 2009 - 05:48pm PT

The old bolts were removed by the Chopper, Salamanizer, per another thread. The old anchor pins were put back in place a few weeks ago as James noted above. Last weekend (July 13th/14th) there were fixed ropes to the ground from the anchor with pins in the picture above. The rappel stayed right of Fandango. On Sunday afternoon the fixed lines were gone and the bolts were back in place. The old anchor pins were still there.

Did the Chopper pull some scraps together and reset the anchor? What about putting the chains back ontop of the 1st pitch?

kev

climber

Jul 14, 2009 - 05:55pm PT

Those chains ain't gonna be there long. Need em for a proj.

ChirpioBartholomew

Boulder climber

Dixon

Jul 15, 2009 - 09:52am PT

We did the rap route several times both with the fixed lines and without and thought it was a great contribution to the crag.

Kev- Where is your project?

Salamanizer

Trad climber

Vacaville Ca,

Jul 16, 2009 - 02:49am PT

Quit trollin Chirpio.

Hey, is that Paul in the photo, I'm pretty sure it is.
...is that you trolling Paul? Either way I'd quit, it's making you look like an idiot.

Anyway, those bolts aren't ASCA, the ASCA does not retrobolt.
If they are ASCA stamped, I'd like to know who's abusing ASCA funds. Either someone under the support of the ASCA is committing fraud by misusing donated funds or they stole the stamped hangers from somewhere. This is something I think the ASCA should take very seriously and steps should be taken to snuff out and expose the individuals who did the bolting. The reputation of the ASCA is at stake here. This is an organization which I and many others contribute to who do not condone retro bolting. If the ASCA were to become involved in such acts, I'm sure a large portion of their funding would be at risk of disappearing.

As for the new anchors, like I said before, I'm no vigilante hell bent on keeping this route retro free, so I will do nothing about them. I've already done my part and brought everyones attention to the situation. I won't pull them again so it's up to the climbing community and its opinions on local ethics/style to decide whether these particular anchors should remain or not. Though I know most locals and frequent visitors to the leap do not agree with the anchors being there except for a small group of friends who retro'ed it in the first place. So I suspect they will be gone again within a couple weeks. But, like I say, I'm not out to be some vigilante so I give my word I'll have nothing to do with their removal.

It's up to the climbing community and the local ethic to police its self... and that's the way it should be.

kev

climber

Jul 16, 2009 - 03:01am PT

Chirpy,

What? You want to bolt the gear/pin belays on my projects?
Are you afraid to rap off pins????

What's wrong with equalizing a few pins? They're removable an already there! I hear gerbils have small sacs and i'm thinking that something chirpy is very similar to a gerbil - no? Prove me wrong and rap off a pin or two? Wait that would require balls!

What will you do when you have to pass some choss on an FA? Bolt it like a scared child????? George didn't!

smiles

kev

ChirpioBartholomew

Boulder climber

Dixon

Jul 16, 2009 - 10:08am PT

kev - No, but if chopping is in order, it would be great to start compiliing a list. Anyomne care to start?

kasang

Gym climber

kangchung

Jul 16, 2009 - 11:27am PT

first time posting here,
yea im not any of those people chad, im the one who cleaned and bolted fandango years ago. i talked to geoge conner after and he was happy that his route would become more popular.it took three days of scrubbing and snipping by myself.it was a dirty job chad.

i didnt care that you chopped it chad, you were the decider in all this. no hard feelings though!

yes the first pitch belay bolts are a bit low chad, this is for people with 70 meter ropes. the upper anchors have been replaced as per g.c. wishes("the damage has been done").with a cheeseball chain and links, they will get stolen. only two parties climbed fandango last weekend and both rapped off.no problems ,no danger.
WHY THE DOUBLE STANDARD HERE?
routes like hospital corner have had rap bolts on it for years.no problems, no danger.travellers buttress has giant bolts on the second pitch no problems, no danger. even the great route fantasia has modern convienences,bolted anchors.
which brings us to the route pigs on the wing someone has bolted this line and my friend jay smith wants it chopped. whoa i said lets not be to quick to chop.
what do the locals want? dont we want more routes not less?
a bigger selection of climbs means more climbing.
(if you rap fandango in your climbing day much more climbing can be achieved,think of it as a shortcut).chad try it you will get in more climbing!
looking at the crowds top roping and milling about the base of hospital corner/artic breeze area, all on bolts. none of these people are"walking off the top" they are rapping.
im sure we can find some things we like about each other! i.e.the passion for climbing should trump these silly threads
and we should work together to make our climbing areas better.
cheers and good climbing, PAUL TEARE
p.s. chad, thats not me in the photo, i dont wear yellow,can i have my chains back? and yeah how about some work on the trail?

caughtinside

Social climber

Davis, CA

Topic Author's Reply - Jul 16, 2009 - 11:40am PT

Hello Paul, thanks for chiming in.

In my opinion, none of your examples of bolted anchors are the same. None of those routes regularly top out 10 feet from a descent trail with adequate anchors available.

The only purpose of the top anchor is to facilitate rappelling. A minority seems to feel passionately about the right to this convenience. The majority seems to feel it is unnecessary.

I have thought more about it, and decided I don't really care. You guys just have to rap to save your 5 minutes so you can climb more on the east wall. It's a little sad, but I don't climb on the east wall so what's it to me?

kasang

Gym climber

kangchung

Jul 16, 2009 - 12:06pm PT

think of it as a shortcut to get back to main wall after you climb the entire hospital corner route and walk off. i dont climb on east wall either.

caughtinside

Social climber

Davis, CA

Topic Author's Reply - Jul 16, 2009 - 12:10pm PT

Except that's not what it is. The main wall rappel rout was chopped years ago.

ChirpioBartholomew

Boulder climber

Dixon

Jul 16, 2009 - 12:30pm PT

Paul - Thanks for all your hard work on Fandango!

caughtinside - Looks like many people are rapping after they climb a pitch or two on the Main Wall. So what's the difference if there are anchors at the top? Rapping is rapping from anywhere on the wall!

caughtinside

Social climber

Davis, CA

Topic Author's Reply - Jul 16, 2009 - 01:21pm PT

Chirpio, it is true that many people rap after one pitch or two on the main wall. This is because many upper pitches on the main wall simply aren't worth doing. Have you done any? I can say that after doing a handful of the 5.5 runout ladder climb pitches up there I'm not interested in doing many more.

Yes, rapping is rapping. It is one of many descent options. I'm not sure I can think of another rap anchor at the Leap that is 10 feet from the trail.

For me and many other climbers, the East Wall is/was a good first taste of climbing. Good pitches with good gear. You get to the top and you walk down with your buddy. This new rap route (or is it the traditional climbing route Fandango, I'm not sure any more!) just adds to the gymification of the East Wall.

Personally, I think it is sad, unnecessary, and sets a bad example for neophyte trad climbers. But whatever, I don't climb over there, and I'm not going to use or chop your rap route. It will be interesting to see 1) how long it lasts and 2) if it lasts, how long before the raps become clusterf*#ked with noobs on the weekends. Lots of parties of three going slowly up the east wall, they'll be slow on your rap route too, and you'll probably be back walking off with the rest of us.

Footloose

Trad climber

Lake Tahoe

Jul 16, 2009 - 01:29pm PT

Caughtinside- I like your thinking here. And thanks for the work on Epitaph. I'll try it next time.

Norwegian

Trad climber

Placerville, California

Jul 16, 2009 - 02:13pm PT

shifts in acceptable behavior are subtle.

if we accept (even with trepedation) this rappel route,
then a blanket statement of acceptance is made.

which affects the thinking of future users of the crag.

i'll chop it.

in a society that grossely tends towards comforts, a firm stance is necessary to uphold any sort of boundaries.

kasang

Gym climber

kangchung

Jul 16, 2009 - 03:30pm PT

what are style and ethics?
feel free to chop scott.
good climbing and cheers, paul

ChirpioBartholomew

Boulder climber

Dixon

Jul 16, 2009 - 04:12pm PT

caughtinside - I can say that after doing one foot in front of the other down the same old trail where the dirt flows right into the creek I'm not interested in doing many more.

caughtinside

Social climber

Davis, CA

Topic Author's Reply - Jul 16, 2009 - 04:16pm PT

fair enough. Let's just hope you don't get bored of the approach!

Dirka

Trad climber

Jul 16, 2009 - 05:50pm PT

Thanks for the post.

LithiumMetalman

Trad climber

cesspool central

Jul 16, 2009 - 06:18pm PT

Great post Caughtinside.

Thanks for all the work too!

To the locals, question / permission

-I would like to replace the first bolt /button head of "Flight
of the Hemorrhoids"

-Is this allowable?

-If so, who should I contact first?

-If not let me know!

cheers!

Brian Biega

climber

Truckee, CA

Jul 17, 2009 - 09:28am PT

Hi Salamanizer,

Thanks for giving the minority a chance. I imagine you have already dropped the chains in the mail. Thanks again.

Cheers, Brian

bathsnake

climber

Jul 18, 2009 - 03:59pm PT

I wanted to share the route description for 'Epitaph' posted on the campground notice board. An excellent use of tombstone imagery and innovative choice of scrap paper.

Thanks for reminding us of a great route, caughtinside; I look forward to climbing it soon!

WhyCantGerbalsDrive

climber

Lee Vining, CA

Jul 19, 2009 - 02:47pm PT

brian:the only thing salamanizer/chad is
dropping is his foot in the ass of his
fellow climbers.he has no spine,his george w.decider style sucks.
kasang: youre precious cheeseball chains and one bolt are gone!
1 bolt and one pin are left(foothill boys coudnt patch
the hole this time).
thanks for cleaning fandango dude! i agree a double standard has been set(my sh#t is stuff and your stuff is shit!)
i dissagree with you on this: hospital corner has
a problem...
caughtinside:you said rappelling fandango is sad
and unnessesary and sets a bad example for neophyte
trad climbers. why? isnt rappelling one of the many
skills a climber should have? my case in point,
i went to do a retro bolted hospital corner,
and there was a party
of three followed closely by a party of two.
two of the people had never rappelled before. anyway
there was a lot of yelling and screaming followed
by some crying.now this was really sad and unnessesary.
our plans plans changed and we did travellers,
rappelled fandango and were back at the base of hospital corner
just in time for them to pull there ropes down.
i didnt yell obcenities at them as salamaizer/chad
would have. i just gave them some rappelling tips.
shoudnt these neophyte trad climbers be made to walk off?
or is rappelling ok over here on the gym side of the crag
but not over there on the non gym side of the crag(east wall)?
i say if your going to chop lets at least be consistent
and chop hospital also.and pigs, etc.
and caughtinside,fandango rap station#1 is 30 feet at least from the trail,and is not visble (nylon runners and bail biners now)most people cant find it and wont use it if you paid them.

although the more people to use this rap means less wear and tear on the overused and non maintained trail
lets face it, most people will still walk off.
but the cunning locals will rappell this route FOREVER.
brian, paul, ralph and chirpio:i found 2 inch diameter x 10 inch stainless eye bolts for 75 dollars each!
thanks, dave gerbalman

ChirpioBartholomew

Boulder climber

Dixon

Jul 20, 2009 - 12:13pm PT

Hear, hear! .....

ChirpioBartholomew

Boulder climber

Dixon

Jul 20, 2009 - 01:16pm PT

Bump for rap!

ChirpioBartholomew

Boulder climber

Dixon

Jul 29, 2009 - 10:06am PT

Here, here!

F10

Trad climber

e350

Jul 29, 2009 - 11:13am PT

Nothing new to report except that I finally went climbing here last weekend

All I can say is what a blast, and the rock is amazing

ChirpioBartholomew

Boulder climber

Dixon

Jul 30, 2009 - 10:25am PT

Aren't there rap bolts down Fantasia?

Salamanizer... looks like there is some chopping in order.

kev

climber

Jul 30, 2009 - 01:04pm PT

It turns out that chirpy, gerbals, ashley, (maybe joe and ralph too ) are all the same people, so there's not any f*#king going on - instead a lot of masturbation. Also all of the 'bolts are back' 'rapped it yesterday' etc comment are BS. This is a total TROLL!

He was called out by mucci on the lost rap glove thread and deleted it. Here's a link

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=915567&msg=915597#msg915597

kev

WhyCantGerbalsDrive

climber

Lee Vining, CA

Jul 30, 2009 - 01:22pm PT

kev i thought the whole of st was four people, like you are salamanizer norway etc. hey dont worry we wont rap unless we are there! how was your climb? dont take it so hard dude. if you really want to end this bs, live and let live.

ChirpioBartholomew

Boulder climber

Dixon

Jul 30, 2009 - 01:59pm PT

I thoght kev was mucci or is she Salamanizer?

Salamanizer = caughtinside

Wait, is that right??? I don't know anymore...

mucci

Trad climber

The pitch of Bagalaar above you

Jul 30, 2009 - 03:16pm PT

First off, the TARDS used Climb axe hangers, not the ASCA they touted in the OP. I would know, I have one of the original rap anchor hangers in my bolt bag.

Secondly, When I go back to chop all of the bolts on fandango, I hope you are there, all of you. You are cowards and don't stand behind your work. If you did the rappel would have been re-installed.

I use my real name and back it up. You know who I am, so when you see me coming down with all of your shitty steel in tow, walk the other way.

ChirpioBartholomew

Boulder climber

Dixon

Jul 30, 2009 - 03:36pm PT

mucci... do you need glasses? One of the ASCA bolts, one of the two in the picture below is still there! Now connected via some tat to one of the old pins also in the picture below.

Thanks S.Powers. Good to know.

New replacement steel on Fandango is courtesy of the ASCA. Thanks to all who have donated.

mucci

Trad climber

The pitch of Bagalaar above you

Jul 30, 2009 - 03:50pm PT

There is one pin and one bolt. If you walked by the anchor on your way Down the trail, you would know this. The two pins to the left of the bolt are GONE buddy.