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oldcragster
Gym climber
WA
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Jul 13, 2009 - 10:44pm PT
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sorry to hear about accident, don't understand the 'take' thing so close to ground...understand the bar thing cause of thundershowers. The Line was the scene of much yelling in the early 70's. old-timers used it to practice placing pitons for aid, probably prior to hitting the Valley. anyway, we young ones began switching to nuts only and the Leap, esp. the Line, was perfect for the wedge shaped chocks/nuts. So we see, and hear, the old guard nailing away and we would yell at them to stop...use nuts, save the rock. They yelled back obscenities, but within a year it was over and nuts ruled.
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Jul 13, 2009 - 11:06pm PT
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The word at the Leap today from someone who eyewitnessed the fall from the Pony Express trail and then rushed to help was that the leader was backing down from the crux, lost his purchase, kind of pushed back, off the rock, and this popped the single nut.
I'm totally in line with Norwegian (and his picture). I've never climbed the Line (about six times) without sinking two bomber pieces in that pre-crux slot. (first in, a nut, and a cam above that, with slings of course) In fact, one of my "middle names" climbing is RADA (Redundancy Above Deck Always)... it was inspired about 12 years ago, as a newbie, seeing a guy hanging / taking... so casually... on one nut at that very location above all those shards at the base.
Checked out Epitaph today after seeing somebody's note at the Bulletin Board. Almost got on it but at the time was unclear about the terminus.
P.S. There's some fine booty this evening on Surreal Direct, Var A. Yes, we missed a nut, an easy grab, we were all too lazy to get back up there and get it. It's a big one, bomber placement, of course. Happy climbing!
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 14, 2009 - 12:01am PT
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That's my note on the bulletin board, sorry I wasn't more clear about the end/how to get down.
The anchor as it stands really isn't that great, it's a slung block, about 25 or 30 feet left of the last bolt. I think originally, the route went up and topped out, but the climbing above that break 60 feet up is super blocky and grungy, I only gave it a cursory look.
Best bet is to climb up to the break, make the traverse, build a gear anchor then rap of the slings. The route could really use an independent bolt anchor, but that's another decision for another day...
Salamanizer, thanks for the info. I always wondered about the Old Man arete. I've looked at the Boy's Arete several times on the lower buttress, looks pretty cool.
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
Vacaville Ca,
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Jul 14, 2009 - 12:33am PT
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Yeah, havn't done the Boy and his Arete thing. Did Strawbilly Tango once... WTF???
Had enough of that shit!
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 14, 2009 - 12:39am PT
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ha ha! I remember walking by when you and Alex were trying it. Er... looked hard! hahaha!
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kev
climber
CA
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Jul 14, 2009 - 12:51am PT
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I've hear Eric mention the route with a snicker or time or two. Guess I should go get on another Gable Classic.....
kev
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
Vacaville Ca,
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Jul 14, 2009 - 02:35am PT
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Hey, I didn't know Eric did that route. I kinda like Gable routes, just the right amount of spice.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Jul 14, 2009 - 02:48am PT
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Gable routes = capsacin overload!
Where's the milk?
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wilcox510
climber
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Jul 14, 2009 - 11:03am PT
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On a somewhat related note... What's the Leap like around the 1st of August? Too hot?? Can you seek shade there??
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Hardman Knott
Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
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Jul 14, 2009 - 12:24pm PT
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I seem to remember a bomber #4 or #5 stopper placement as the first piece on The Line.
It's knott obvious (hence all the bloodshed and mayhem), but it's there...
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ChirpioBartholomew
Boulder climber
Dixon
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Jul 14, 2009 - 12:52pm PT
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New replacement steel on Fandango is courtesy of the ASCA. Thanks to all who have donated.
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 14, 2009 - 01:17pm PT
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All this fuss over a lousy pile like fandango!
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slobmonster
Trad climber
berkeley, ca
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Jul 14, 2009 - 01:36pm PT
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Is that a hammer-shut "chain link" serving as the rope-running surface? I hate those damn things. Much prefer the Fixe steel rings.
And why are those pitons still there?
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Jul 14, 2009 - 01:54pm PT
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Nice first Post Chirp
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WhyCantGerbalsDrive
climber
Lee Vining, CA
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Jul 14, 2009 - 02:27pm PT
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chirpy,
those chains look manky, i doubt asca put those in.
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ChirpioBartholomew
Boulder climber
Dixon
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Jul 14, 2009 - 03:08pm PT
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caughtinside - your opinion
Hardman Knott - I will submitted the info to safeclimbing.org
slobmonster - Yes, it's a hammer-shut. I also prefer the Fixe steel rings as does Salamanizer. The pins are still there because Salamanizer
mucci - thanks!
fattrad - Bolts are there for rapping! Similar to the bolts on top of Tombstone Terror ("Most climbers stop at the first anchor and rappel back to the ground. This is a great toprope with a 60m rope"), Hospital Corner, Better with Bacon, Traveler Buttress ("You can rap to the main ledge from the top of pitch 2 (i.e. the offwidth pitch) with a single 70m rope - it's a 110' rap").............
WhyCantGerbalsDrive- There are ASCA stamps on them
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Jul 14, 2009 - 03:51pm PT
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We don't have any smash-links, and we very rarely use or send out chain (except for Moab area towers), so those are from someone's personal gear (at least the smash link). Fixe rap rings are super expensive now too, so we are really low/out of them.
What's up with those bolts? Pins driven into bolt holes? Cool! Or is there a crack I don't see? No easy way to pull so leave them for historical value...
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james Colborn
Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
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Jul 14, 2009 - 04:27pm PT
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Just did that route two weeks ago. After all the hubbub on this site over the rap anchors. There were five or so pins in various spots in close proximity to where that anchor is, but those bolts were not there.
I thought fandango was fun. Long pitches and varried. I see why there were chains on that first pitch, it looks like a sweet feature forms up during the winter. It seems as though the route sees little traffic.
Greg, the bolts are in a huge block that has some small horizantal cracks where the pins are. One of the pins were fresh, I think a Leaper, still had broken rock around it and and the pounded steal still had no rust on it.
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sDawg
climber
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Jul 14, 2009 - 05:42pm PT
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We left a number 1 camalot on surrealistic pillar direct on Sunday. We both feel bad about marring a classic route, so I'd love to know if/when someone gets it out (of course not expecting an offer of return). I followed, so I spent a while working on it, but eventually gave the route up to the party of 6 waiting at the bottom.
Also did the line on Saturday. I have a friend who took probably about the same fall (just before placing that piece, I think) and crushed his wrist. I found that I was a little sketched at that spot too. It's definitely the scariest part of the route and although I did have one piece in lower, by that point it may not have kept me off the ground. Not a good choice for a first/early 5.9 lead!
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ChirpioBartholomew
Boulder climber
Dixon
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Jul 14, 2009 - 05:48pm PT
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The old bolts were removed by the Chopper, Salamanizer, per another thread. The old anchor pins were put back in place a few weeks ago as James noted above. Last weekend (July 13th/14th) there were fixed ropes to the ground from the anchor with pins in the picture above. The rappel stayed right of Fandango. On Sunday afternoon the fixed lines were gone and the bolts were back in place. The old anchor pins were still there.
Did the Chopper pull some scraps together and reset the anchor? What about putting the chains back ontop of the 1st pitch?
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