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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 6, 2008 - 08:47pm PT
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So I'm checking out button heads on line and I come across this statement...
"The classical anchor that made a revolution in the sport climbing world."
What does this mean? It doesn't make sense to me.
In other news, when did you place your first buttonhead?
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Pictures at an Exhibition (5.10-), Split Rocks Area, Joshua Tree, 1977..........
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
Where are YOU from?
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Heading for Oblivion, on the 2d ascent. Just at the anchors. They needed it.
5/16 buttonheads Rock!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Early 70s, above and to the right of the third pitch of Rock On at Squamish. We thought the fourth pitch would go that way, but it didn't. I thought drilling a bolt hole would be easy, but it wasn't.
We had something of an adventure in an attempt to get back to earth by traversing rightward, and the half-drilled hole is probably still there.
Next attempt at drilling was more successful, in that I actually got a quarter-inch split-shank buttonhead (with a Leeper hanger) placed, somewhere on a pointless variation to an old aid route called Shadows, on a cliff right above the Squamish highway.
Edit: As to the thing that revolutionized sport climbing, I thought that was the Bosch Bulldog.
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socalbolter
Sport climber
Silverado, CA
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1982 on a granite rock in the Santa Ana riverbed behind my childhood home. Had just gotten my first RAWL holder and was anxious to try it out.
Thousands of bolts later I'm still at it.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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It is just too far back in time to be sure, but it might have been the second or third bolt on Loose Lady at Josh around 75. There have been lots of 1/4 and 5/16 inch button heads in my career. Probably most of the 5/16 inch ones are still good 20 years later.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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My first 1/4" Rawl compression bolt was in autumn 1974, at Squamish. Something Carl A. and I were trying at the Malamute. Long gone. Probably not a button head, but I can't remember.
Later I'll post a horror story on the Squamish climbing thread about exploding button heads.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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1976/77
Me and Larry Loads out on new route patrol.
Some choss crag off a road, (road has since washed away), in the San Gabriel Mountains, SoCal.
Total spinner, 1 inch long split shaft with the stupid nut: formed a one bolt anchor from which we bailed.
Old-school regulation issue quarter-inch by inch and a quarter button heads are way bomber!!!
(For a little while; maybe 10 or 20 years)
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 7, 2008 - 02:21am PT
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good stuff, keep it coming. this stuff fascinates me.
Roxjox, no doubt. They definitely revolutionized climbing.
But I'm wondering how someone would assert that they revolutionized 'sport climbing'
sport climbing as a gym born phenomena didn't happen til we started seeing gyms produce sport climbers really. there must have been some point of critical mass. gives me an idea for a new thread.
but I digress, sport climbing seems to be after the hey day of buttonhead bolts used for free climbing.
anyone have thoughts on this?
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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5/16" x 1" button heads at the top of Peter, Peter Fairview Dome, Tuolumne Meadows (probably replaced the 1/4" x 1" bolts place by the FA).
These were very easily removed
though they looked in pretty good condition.
Now there are two SS 3/8" x 2.25" Anchor bolts
the bolt fairies sure do get around...
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 7, 2008 - 04:07am PT
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that's downright pretty Ed.
noyce
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Chris2
Trad climber
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I remember the first buttonhead I saw out of the rock. I could not believe how long I had been clipping into those things! I am sure, when properly installed, they were bomber at first but after many years....damn scary!
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noshoesnoshirt
climber
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Never placed one but I used to whip all over them in Arkansas in the late '80s.
I also hauled off the suckers.
Over the final roof on the Nose, dark, no headlamp, fumbling around on the slabs. I found what seemed like a stance and felt around 'til I found two old-ass 1/4"ers with Leeper hangers.
I clipped in, set the haul and yelled down to my partner to definitely not cut the pig loose, as I thought the anchor might blow. He cut the pig loose. I experienced a sharp rise in blood pressure and heart rate.
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Roger Brown
climber
Oceano, California
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Rokjox,
While replacing bolts in the area in 2007, we found an un-named route between "Mid-life crisis" and "Reefer madness" that went all the way from the base to join "Greasy but groovy"s last pitch. All the bolts were 1/4" so they were replaced. I called it the "Mystery Route" Maybe someone finished your route for you. I have the bolts and hangers around here somewhere. I will dig them out and see if they are button heads and what kind of hangers are on them. Maybe another piece of the puzzle has turned up :-)
Roger Brown
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Never, they seemed obsolete when I started placing bolts, in 1972.
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
Vacaville Ca,
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Obsolete? I still use them to this very day. I've found nothing better for stance drilling in a hurry. Perhaps there's something better... do tell.
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Burt Bronson
climber
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MEN, BRONSON HERE.
1959
THE COMPRESSOR ROUTE
PARQUE NACIONAL LOS GLACIARES
PATAGONIA, ARGENTINA.
BURT BRONSON
THE LAST BASTION OF THE SERIOUS CLIMBER
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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BURT, didn't you pull those with your teeth on your free solo ascent/downclimb?
Sal, they definitely have/had there place, I was never in the situation where I was in, that, much of a hurry. For sure easier to get bite with crowbar on...
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Roger Brown
climber
Oceano, California
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Nudge,
We run into those from time to time. It is a sad day. They almost never come out in one piece. So do you drill the new hole closer or further away? A few inches on either side in some cases can make a big difference. We found three routes last summer with all the bolts the non-removable type like you show, two of the routes were stainless steel. Only one bolt came out in one piece, and the stainless broke much easier. The buttonhead is a good bolt, the newer ones are really solid, and all of them are replaceable. Just my two cents :-)
Rokjox,
The mystery route was probably not yours. 40+ bolts, all were fat SS SMC hangers, drilled deep, (Power drilled-Late 80s?) and pretty much a straight line from top to bottom. The only thing matching your post would be "Mid-Life Crisis" Leeper big biner hole, Leeper small biner hole, and thin SMC hangers. All bolts were button heads. Route was put up in the 80s. Funny thing, there was stuff on my fingers after handling the hangers today that was like soot. The hangers looked like they had been painted black at some time. They couldn't still be dirty from the fire after all these years could they? That would be pretty wild!!
Roger Brown
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