Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
WanderlustMD
Trad climber
Lanham MD
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 20, 2007 - 11:16am PT
|
I was thinking about this route randomly the other day...is it still unrepeated? As far as I know, Kauk climbed it on pre-placed gear and it hasn't been touched since.
Aside from the fact that it's ridiculously hard, why hasn't anyone tried to repeat it? There are folks out there who could definately get it based on their climbing history...or so it would seem.
|
|
Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
|
|
|
Nov 20, 2007 - 11:47am PT
|
I've talked with Kauk several times lately about Magic Line. FA December '96 all trad with some pro pre-placed. That climb, and Ron's advice from the master about how to approach new Valley lines, are prominent in an article of mine that's about to hit the street in Rock & Ice.
Yes, it is still unrepeated in spite of several people giving it a try. Ron thinks no one has stuck with it long enough yet.
Recall the story from his book about how only after he gave up wanting the achievement, could he then get up the route.
Go take a look. It's a nice walk up there.
|
|
WanderlustMD
Trad climber
Lanham MD
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 20, 2007 - 12:01pm PT
|
Wow, what timing! I'll definately pick up that issue when it comes out. Do you have a street date?
Man, I'd love to check it out sometime. I live in Maryland, so taking a walk up there is out of the picture...I'll be in the valley most of next summer, though.
I'm sure it's in the article, but how long did he work it (I haven't read his book...I'll have to)
|
|
maldaly
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
|
|
|
Nov 20, 2007 - 12:13pm PT
|
It's the line on the left. A wicked line up the face of K2. It's been done only once, too.
Mal
|
|
Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
|
|
|
Nov 20, 2007 - 01:04pm PT
|
The issue got shipped to the printer over a week ago, so on the street in maybe two weeks?
Get Ron's book. My favorite piece in it is about "getting inside the move." One of those tricks to slow down and look at it from a new perspective that reinforced something I had been approaching unconsciously and brought it out into the light by giving it a name and some shape. Kind of like moving over stone meets yoga. It's been informing my climbing-as-a-practice ever since.
Dunno how long he worked the route. Awhile, for sure. My piece comes at it from a different angle.
|
|
piquaclimber
Trad climber
Durango
|
|
|
Nov 20, 2007 - 02:47pm PT
|
Mal,
Which Magic Line do you think is harder to climb?
|
|
bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
|
|
|
Nov 20, 2007 - 04:02pm PT
|
Has anyone done a ground up ascent of Magic Line?
(no preplacement)...
|
|
Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
|
|
|
Nov 20, 2007 - 05:54pm PT
|
No.
No repeat of any kind.
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Nov 20, 2007 - 08:32pm PT
|
i think so Joe-D.
|
|
CF
climber
|
|
Dug out these photos for ya.
|
|
caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
|
|
cool photos!
Hey DR, Awesome article in Rock and Ice, I really enjoyed it! Great blend of the adventure of new routing and history, thanks!
|
|
Jerry Dodrill
climber
Bodega, CA
|
|
Nice, CF!
That second shot looks like one from Pirates of the Caribiners! Arrrrrrr!!!
|
|
James
climber
A tent in the redwoods
|
|
A beautiful line but the second ascent may be awhile. Not too many 5.14 sport climbers in Yosemite who want to hike to Vernal when El Cap is next to the road. I believe some of the footholds have fallen off and there was talk of super glue (not entirely confirmed) on some of the tiny chips. Todd Skinner tried this line a few times and there was a fixed line up there for awhile.
|
|
Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
|
|
CF,
Thanks so much for your cool photos. No amount of shuffling around the base bring the climb home like your aerial perspective of the Man in action.
caughtinside,
Glad you liked the article. Lots of hard work and heart went into it. Curious, are you the guy who wrote the book of the same name? If so, hats off to you! Fine writing. I bought it for my 14-year-old who is ripping it up in the same waters, so he could get a deeper perspective. One of the best surf books ever!
|
|
caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
|
|
Hey DR, thanks again.
No, can't take credit for the book, the username and the book were an unknown coincidence.
|
|
crøtch
climber
|
|
One of the best surf books ever!
Agreed. It's a love story about water.
|
|
wbw
climber
'cross the great divide
|
|
I read in one of the rags that some French guys were gonna rap bolt the Magic Line on K2. Some California guys heard about it, and threatened to chop it if it weren't done ground up. Some Brits are currently working to headpoint it, but so far can't get the move past the serac without tension.
|
|
Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
|
|
When Kauk was working on that thing, it was rumored a possible 5.15.
Who really knows how hard it is? This wicked thin crap is Kauk's strength and everybody else's weakness. He could have rated it 5.15 and nobody could have said anything but "Kauk's never climbed 5.14 much if all all so how could it be?"
Funny, one of the few 5.14s in the world that you can (or maybe should) climb in a bus-like boot like Kaukulators.
Peace
Karl
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!